DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 99-28
Bikini top:
Size: Cup size A-B-C.
Materials Drops Muskat from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes, colour no 18, white

Skirt:
Size: XS - S – M – L – XL
Materials Drops Muskat from Garnstudio
250-250-300-300-350 g colour no 18, white

Drops crochet hook size 4 mm or size needed to obtain the correct tension
Drops Mother of Pearl button, nr 523 - 2 pcs

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.30 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 10.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Crochet tension: 16 tr x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
Crochet info: Replace the first tr on each round with 3 ch. Replace first dc on round with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in first tr/dc/ch.
Casting off tip (apply to bikini top):
Cast off as follows at beg of row: crochet sl sts on the number of tr to be cast off.
Cast off as follows at the end of row: Turn piece when number of tr to be cast off are left on row.
Increasing tip (apply to skirt): Inc by crocheting 2 tr in 1 tr.

Bikini top:
Right cup: A-cup: crochet round 1 to 10, B cup: crochet round 1-12, C cup crochet round 1-14.
Right cup: Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm and form a ring with a sl st. Continue as follows:
Round 1: 5 dc in ring
Round 2: 2 tr in each dc = 10 tr
Round 3: 2 tr in each tr = 20 tr
Round 4: *4 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-*, = 10 ch-loops
Round 5: 4 tr in each ch-loop = 40 tr
Round 6: *3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-*, = 20 ch-loops
Round 7: 3 tr in each of the first 2 ch-loops, *2 tr in next ch-loop, 3 tr in each of the next 2 ch-loops*, repeat from *-*, = 54 tr
Round 8: *3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish round with 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr and 1 sl st = 20 ch-loops
Round 9: 3 tr in first ch-loop, *4 tr in next ch-loop, 3 tr in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* and finish round with 4 tr in the last ch-loop = 70 tr
Round 10: *3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* = 20 ch-loops
(Cup size A finishes here)
Round 11: 4 tr in each ch-loop = 80 tr
Round 12: 4 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* = 20 ch-loops
(Cup size B finishes here)
Round 13: Like round 11 = 80 tr
Round 14: Like round 12 = 20 ch-loops
(Cup size C finishes here)

Now crochet shoulder/neck strap. Continue from last round on cup and crochet back and forth.
Row 1: 3 tr in first ch-loop, 1 tr in first dc, *3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 tr in next dc*, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times = 12 tr. Turn piece.
Row 2: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 2 tr each side – see Casting off tip = 8 tr. Turn piece
Row 3: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 2 tr each side = 4 tr. Turn piece
Row 4: 1 tr in each tr, and continue until strap measures approx 28 cm, or required length. Cut the thread and sew.

Now crochet back strap as follows: Crochet as follows in the 5th ch-loop to the left of shoulder/neck strap:
Row 1: 4 tr, 1 tr in next dc and 4 tr in next ch-loop = 9 tr
Row 2: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 2 tr each side – see Casting off tip = 5 tr. Turn piece
Row 3: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 1 tr each side = 3 tr. Turn piece
Row 4: 1 tr in each tr, and continue until strap measures approx 30 cm, or required length. Cut the thread and sew.
Left cup: Like right cup, but crochet back strap in the 5th ch-loop to the right of shoulder/neck strap.
Now crochet the 2 cups tog as follows: beg at right cup. Crochet 4 tr in the 4th ch-loop from shoulder strap on the opposite side of back strap. Crochet 5 rows with 1 tr in each tr. Sew this piece to left cup.

Crochet border: Crochet round all edges, incl straps and piece between cups, as follows: * 1 dc, skip 2 cm, 6 tr in the same tr, skip 2 cm*, repeat from *-*.
Buttons: Sew on 1 button on shoulder/neck strap and 1 button on back strap. Use crochet border as buttonholes.

Skirt: Crochet in the round from top down. Read Crochet Info! Crochet 151-171-187-203-231 ch on crochet hook size 4 mm and form a ring with a sl st. Crochet 1 tr in each of the first 3 ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first tr from beg of round = 114-129-141-153-174 tr. Continue with 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 10, 15 and 20 cm inc 5 tr evenly on round – see Increasing tip = 129-144-156-168-189 tr. When piece measures 25-26-27-28-29 cm inc 48 tr evenly = 177-192-204-216-237 tr. When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cn crochet a border along the bottom edge as follows: *1 dc, skip 2 cm, 6 tr in the same tr, skip 2 cm*, repeat from *-*. Cut the thread and sew.

Ribbon: Cut 2 threads measuring approx 300 cm each. Twist until they resist and fold them double. Tie a knot either end and pull ribbon through the second row at top of skirt, beg mid front.

Diagram

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 99-28

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Michelle Hunt wrote:

Hi, I am crocheting your DROPS crochet bikini top and skirt in “Muskat”pattern. I am unfamiliar with the binding off process. Is there a video to demonstrate this process, if not can you make one? Is the binding off tips the same as the crochet info in this pattern?

20.02.2024 - 06:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hunt, in This video we show how to decrease double crochet (US-crochet terminology) at the beginning and at the end of a row. Happy crocheting!

20.02.2024 - 08:46

country flag Valeria wrote:

Salve sto facendo la gonna ed ho fatto il laccetto, ma rispettando le misure indicate viene molto più corto di quello della foto, sidovrebbe partire da 4 metri invece che da 3. Poi dalla foto si vede che la parte più bassa della gonna è fatta con un punto più fitto rispetto al resto, mentre nelle istruzioni è indicata tutta uguale. Che punto è? Grazie mille. Saluti.

18.02.2024 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Valeria, se preferisce può partire da 4 m per fare il cordino. Non ci sono correzioni per la parte inferiore della gonna. Buon lavoro!

25.02.2024 - 16:21

country flag Isabelle Desert wrote:

Bonjour je suis entrain de faire le bonnet et je ne comprends pas le rang 4 . doit on faire 3 ml ensuite maille suivante une bride et maille suivante une ms ? merci pour votre aide.

10.06.2023 - 11:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Desert, commencez le tour par 1 maille en l'air plutôt car c'est un tour de mailles serrées et répétez ainsi* 4 ml, sautez 1 bride, 1 maille serrée dans la bride suivante*. Bon crochet!

12.06.2023 - 09:39

country flag Mary Manoly wrote:

Hii its lovely i need to know in first increase of skirt the 15 stiches is devided over 3 rounds or all in one round .same as the 48 stiches for 2nd increase its all in one round?regards

17.05.2022 - 05:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Manoly, when piece measures 10 cm, you increase 5 sts evenly, when piece measures 15 cm, you increase 5 sts evenly, when piece measures 20 cm, you increase 5 sts evenly. When piece measures 25-29 sts (see size), you increase 48 sts evenly. Read how to increase evenly on a round here. Happy crocheting!

17.05.2022 - 09:15

country flag Mary Manoly wrote:

Bonjours je vois que vous aver rajouter au jupe une augmentation do 3×5 c.est effectuee sur 3 ligne ou une seule? et le 48 m deusieme augmentation dans la même ligne? ou divise merci bien c.est adorable

17.05.2022 - 05:28

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Manoly et merci, si la réponse précédente n'a pas pu vous aider, n'hésitez pas à nous en informer. Bon crochet!

17.05.2022 - 09:16

country flag Carin wrote:

Sorry to be a pain so do you do a decrease double on the first and last stitches of strap row to decrease and then keep crocheting 4 across till strap length is right?

11.05.2022 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carin, decrease as explained at the beg of the pattern, ie under Binding off tip: crochet 2 slip sts at the beg of the row to decrease 2 dc, then stop the row when 2 sts remain at the end of the row, turn and work next row. Happy crocheting!

11.05.2022 - 16:09

country flag Carin wrote:

I don't understand the cup strap for shoulder/neck strap. The part I don't understand is the binding off on the beginning of strap and then how to make the strap as shown. Is it possible to get a couple minute video on that section. Thanks

11.05.2022 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carin, first work the strap (row 1 = 12 sts, row 2 = 8 sts, row 3 = 4 sts) to the required length, then work the Crochet border (see some lines down in the pattern) along all edges, including straps (= * 1 sc, skip 2 cm [3/4’’], 6 dc in the same dc, skip 2 cm [3/4’’]*, repeat from *-*.). Happy crocheting!

11.05.2022 - 15:54

country flag Irene wrote:

Ik ben bezig met het rokje haken. Moet je nu bij maat M meerderen bij een hoogte van 20 cm? In het patroon staat dat je 5 stokjes moet meerderen, maar ik neem aan dat het 15 stokjes zijn?

14.02.2022 - 15:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Irene,

Je meerdert 5 stokjes op 10 cm, 5 stokjes op 15 cm en 5 stokjes op 20 cm.

17.02.2022 - 11:11

country flag Karin Schnase wrote:

Haekel das Bikinioberteil Cup A Kleidergröße ist xs/s die Traeger sind viel zu Lang da die Person zum abmessen nicht da ist meine Frage habt ihr Erfahrungen wie lang die Traeger sein müssen.

19.07.2021 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schnase, häkeln Sie die Träger bis sie ca 30 cm messen, und dann kann die Person mit dem Knopf die Länge anpassen (das richtige "Loch" beim Träger wählen, um die Länge anzupassen). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

20.07.2021 - 08:36

country flag Karin Schnase wrote:

Habe den Fehler gefunden wer lesen kann ist klar im Vorteil

29.06.2021 - 17:51