DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton |
1.85 £ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton 1.85 £ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Summer Sweetheart |
|
|
|
DROPS crochet bikini top and skirt in “Muskat” .
DROPS 99-28 |
|
Crochet tension: 16 tr x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Crochet info: Replace the first tr on each round with 3 ch. Replace first dc on round with 1 ch. Finish each round with 1 sl st in first tr/dc/ch. Casting off tip (apply to bikini top): Cast off as follows at beg of row: crochet sl sts on the number of tr to be cast off. Cast off as follows at the end of row: Turn piece when number of tr to be cast off are left on row. Increasing tip (apply to skirt): Inc by crocheting 2 tr in 1 tr. Bikini top: Right cup: A-cup: crochet round 1 to 10, B cup: crochet round 1-12, C cup crochet round 1-14. Right cup: Crochet 4 ch with crochet hook size 4 mm and form a ring with a sl st. Continue as follows: Round 1: 5 dc in ring Round 2: 2 tr in each dc = 10 tr Round 3: 2 tr in each tr = 20 tr Round 4: *4 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-*, = 10 ch-loops Round 5: 4 tr in each ch-loop = 40 tr Round 6: *3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-*, = 20 ch-loops Round 7: 3 tr in each of the first 2 ch-loops, *2 tr in next ch-loop, 3 tr in each of the next 2 ch-loops*, repeat from *-*, = 54 tr Round 8: *3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* and finish round with 3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 2 tr and 1 sl st = 20 ch-loops Round 9: 3 tr in first ch-loop, *4 tr in next ch-loop, 3 tr in next ch-loop*, repeat from *-* and finish round with 4 tr in the last ch-loop = 70 tr Round 10: *3 ch, skip 2 tr, 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* = 20 ch-loops (Cup size A finishes here) Round 11: 4 tr in each ch-loop = 80 tr Round 12: 4 ch, skip 3 tr, 1 dc in next tr*, repeat from *-* = 20 ch-loops (Cup size B finishes here) Round 13: Like round 11 = 80 tr Round 14: Like round 12 = 20 ch-loops (Cup size C finishes here) Now crochet shoulder/neck strap. Continue from last round on cup and crochet back and forth. Row 1: 3 tr in first ch-loop, 1 tr in first dc, *3 tr in next ch-loop, 1 tr in next dc*, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times = 12 tr. Turn piece. Row 2: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 2 tr each side – see Casting off tip = 8 tr. Turn piece Row 3: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 2 tr each side = 4 tr. Turn piece Row 4: 1 tr in each tr, and continue until strap measures approx 28 cm, or required length. Cut the thread and sew. Now crochet back strap as follows: Crochet as follows in the 5th ch-loop to the left of shoulder/neck strap: Row 1: 4 tr, 1 tr in next dc and 4 tr in next ch-loop = 9 tr Row 2: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 2 tr each side – see Casting off tip = 5 tr. Turn piece Row 3: 1 tr in each tr, but cast off 1 tr each side = 3 tr. Turn piece Row 4: 1 tr in each tr, and continue until strap measures approx 30 cm, or required length. Cut the thread and sew. Left cup: Like right cup, but crochet back strap in the 5th ch-loop to the right of shoulder/neck strap. Now crochet the 2 cups tog as follows: beg at right cup. Crochet 4 tr in the 4th ch-loop from shoulder strap on the opposite side of back strap. Crochet 5 rows with 1 tr in each tr. Sew this piece to left cup. Crochet border: Crochet round all edges, incl straps and piece between cups, as follows: * 1 dc, skip 2 cm, 6 tr in the same tr, skip 2 cm*, repeat from *-*. Buttons: Sew on 1 button on shoulder/neck strap and 1 button on back strap. Use crochet border as buttonholes. Skirt: Crochet in the round from top down. Read Crochet Info! Crochet 151-171-187-203-231 ch on crochet hook size 4 mm and form a ring with a sl st. Crochet 1 tr in each of the first 3 ch, *skip 1 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first tr from beg of round = 114-129-141-153-174 tr. Continue with 1 tr in each tr. When piece measures 10, 15 and 20 cm inc 5 tr evenly on round – see Increasing tip = 129-144-156-168-189 tr. When piece measures 25-26-27-28-29 cm inc 48 tr evenly = 177-192-204-216-237 tr. When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cn crochet a border along the bottom edge as follows: *1 dc, skip 2 cm, 6 tr in the same tr, skip 2 cm*, repeat from *-*. Cut the thread and sew. Ribbon: Cut 2 threads measuring approx 300 cm each. Twist until they resist and fold them double. Tie a knot either end and pull ribbon through the second row at top of skirt, beg mid front. |
|
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (52)
Alisha wrote:
When it says to bind off on the shoulder/back strap, am I fastening it off or what how do I do that? Do I just put slip stitches in the indicated stitches, like for row 2 1 dc in each dc but bind off 2 dc on each side leaving 8dc? So out of the 12 stitches that would be there 4 of them should be sl sts and the middle 8 being dc?
07.04.2017 - 05:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alisha, you will dec as explained under "Binding off tip", ie as in the video below: 2 sl st at the beg of row, and crochet until 2 dc remain of row and turn. Happy crocheting!
07.04.2017 - 08:42Corrie Klut wrote:
Op de foto van het rokje lijkt het of er steeds een losse tussen de stokjes van het bovenste tweederde deel zit, de onderkant lijkt wel vaster gehaakt. Wat maakt dit verschil?
30.03.2017 - 10:22DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Corrie. Ik denk dat het simpelweg is dat de rok strakker zit aan de bovenkant dan aan de onderkant - en de steken dan anders eruitziet daar.
30.03.2017 - 11:41Francine wrote:
Pour la majorité des patrons au crochets qu'il faut tourner en rond comme une jupe il ne faut pas tourner à la fin du rang vous attacher avec la première maille du rang et vous revenez sur vos pas si vous tourner votre modèle ne sera pas droit depuis que j'ai changer ma façon de faire je n'ai plus aucun problème avec mes créations
06.01.2017 - 21:25Wally wrote:
Hallo nochmal, womit soll der Knopf geschlossen werden. Macht man da noch eine Schlaufe?
16.05.2014 - 16:13DROPS Design answered:
Die Knöpfe werden einfach durch die Stäbchen hindurch geschlossen. So bleibt der Bikini in der Größe etwas variabler.
16.05.2014 - 22:08Wally wrote:
Hallo, ich verstehe zwei saxhen nicht. Könnt ihr mir helfen? 1. Träger 2. R. Sollen in jedes Stäbchen 2 Stäbchen gehäckelt werden( abzüglich Rand) das ergibt bei mir 16 und nicht 8 Stäbchen 2. Beim zusammennähen des Körbchens, vier Stäbchen in den LM Bogen und dann 5 Reiehn mit je vier Stäbchen, ist das nicht zu lang? Wo liegt mein denkfehler Danke Gruß Wally
15.05.2014 - 16:39DROPS Design answered:
Zur 1. Frage: Die Angabe in der Anleitung war leider fehlerhaft, Sie müssen 1 Stb in jedes Stb häkeln, das wurde nun behoben. Zur 2. Frage: Sie können das Verbindungsstück ja anpassen und so viele R häkeln, wie zu Ihren Maßen passen, oder es ggf an einem gut sitzenden Bikinioberteil ausmessen. Viel Spaß am Strand mit diesem schönen Set!
15.05.2014 - 17:06:) wrote:
Witam, czy jest mozliwe zamieszczenie instukcji w jezyku polskim?
12.02.2014 - 08:58Barby wrote:
Cosa significa lavorare ad uncinetto davanti e dietro
31.05.2013 - 09:28DROPS Design answered:
Buon giorno. Nel testo viene indicato, per la spallina, di lavorare avanti e indietro. Non si lavora quindi più in tondo, ma da destra verso sinistra e poi si gira il lavoro. Se però non era questa la sua domanda, se per cortesia, ci può indicare il punto esatto della spiegazione che non le è chiaro. Grazie e buon lavoro!
03.06.2013 - 23:22Maciac wrote:
Merci pour votre message. Mais, alors, j'imagine qu'avant de tourner, on ne fait pas de mailler coulée. Je trouve que ça fait bizarre sans "fermer" avec un côté plus haut que l'autre!
27.02.2013 - 13:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Madame Maciac, on ne ferme pas avec une mc effectivement vu qu'on ne fait pas un tour entier : on continue en allers et retours, donc à la fin de ces 12 B, on tourne, et, en même temps, on diminue 2 B au début et à la fin du 2ème rang, et au 3ème rang, on diminue également 2 B de chaque côté, pour obtenir un joli rendu une diminution progressive de la bretelle. Bon crochet !
27.02.2013 - 13:52Macia wrote:
Bonjour, Je viens de terminer le bonnet droit et je m'apprête à enchaîner (à partir de la dernière mail de mon bonnet droit) sur la bretelle tout du cou, mais je ne comprends pas ces allers-retours: R 1 : 3B dans le 1er arceau, 1B dans la 1ère ms, *3B dans l’arceau suiv, 1B dans la ms suiv* répéter de *à* 2 fois en tout = 12 B, (c'est cela que je ne comprends pas). Qu'est-ce qu'on entend par deux fois en tout. Jusqu'où faut-il aller avant de tourner? Merci de m'éclairer Cathy
25.02.2013 - 17:20DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Cathy, la bretelle se continue après le bonnet : 3 B dans le 1er arceau + 1B dans la 1ère ms (= 4 B), puis *3 B dans l'arceau suiv, 1 B dans la ms suiv* (=4 B), on répète de *-* et on a un total de 12 B. Bon crochet !
26.02.2013 - 10:16Rowena wrote:
Ik heb het rokje gemaakt in donkergrijs met zilveren glitter (wol - haaknaald 5mm). Prachtig voor de kerst, En dat voor maar 3,58. Waar vind je dat nog?? Bedankt voor het patroon. Ik ben zeer tevreden!! :)
21.11.2012 - 17:01