DROPS / 96 / 12

DROPS 96-12 by DROPS Design

DROPS Long jacket with ¾ sleeves

Tags: jackets, oversized,

Size: S/M – M/L – XL - XXL

Materials: DROPS Highlander or Eskimo from Garnstudio
550-600-700-750 g colour no 18, charcoal; grey

Drops circular needle size 8 mm
Drops crochet hook size 7 (for borders)
Drops buffalo horn button, no 536: 5-5-6-6 pcs

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 12 sts x 17 rows on needle size 8mm in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm
Garter sts (back and forth on needle): knit all rows.
Increasing tips: Inc inside 1 edge st on front piece and inside 2 edge sts on back piece. Inc by making a yo and knit into back of yo on the returning row (to avoid making a hole). Knit inc sts in stocking sts.
Measurements tips: Because of the weight of the yarn, make all measurements whilst the pieces are hanging.

Left front + back piece: Because of the number of sts the jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needles. The jacket is knitted from top down.
Loosely cast on 35-38-41-43 sts on needle size 8 mm with Highlander and knit 4 rows garter sts (1st row = RS). At the same time insert a marking thread after the first 19-21-23-25 sts on left front (= 16-17-18-18 sts left on row towards back piece) - let the marking thread follow the piece as you progress.
Read all of the following section before continuing!
Continue in stocking sts, but with the 1st st on the right side of piece (= mid front) and the first 2 sts on the left side of piece (= mid back) in garter sts.
Inc for sloping front: At the same time after the 4 rows in garter sts inc towards mid front on every 3rd row a total of 29-31-34-35 times – see Increasing tips. Inc mid back: At the same time when piece measures 17-13-11-8 cm – see Measurement tips – inc 1 st mid back on every 17-13-11-8 cm a total of 3-4-5-7 times – see Increasing tips.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures 17-18-19-20 cm cast off 1 st on both sides of the marking thread and continue knitting each piece separately – continue inc. as described above.
When front piece and back piece measures 36-38-41-43 cm put all sts back on the same needle and cast on 2 new sts over the 2 sts cast off for armhole. Continue with inc as before. After all inc are complete = 67-73-80-85 sts on needle. When piece measures approx 89-93-97-101 cm (or desired length) – see Measurement tips – knit 1 row from the WS and cast off.

Right front + back piece: Cast on and knit as left front + back piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Knitted back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 28-30-32-34 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Highlander. Knit 4 rows garter sts and continue in stocking sts. When sleeve measures 8 cm inc 1 st each side on every 6-6-5-5 cm a total of 6-6-7-7 times = 40-42-46-48 sts. When sleeve measures 43-43-43-44 cm dec for sleeve cap on every other row: 3 sts 2 times. Cast off remaining sts when sleeve measures approx 46-46-46-47 cm.

Assembly: Sew left and right back pieces tog mid back – sew in the outer loop of the outermost st ( = 4 garter sts mid back). Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and sew in sleeves.
Crochet border: Crochet a border along the whole opening of the jacket and round the sleeve edges with crochet hook size 7 and Highlander as follows: 1 dc in first st, *2 ch, skip approx 2 - 2.5 cm, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beginning of round – make sure the border is even and neither wavy nor too tight.
Buttons: Sew on buttons on left front piece. Place the top button in line with the upper edge of the armhole approx 9-10-11-12 cm from the armhole towards mid front. Place the remaining buttons parallel with the sloping front edge – see measurement chart. There should be approx 7 to 10 cm between each button. Use the ch-loops in the crochet border as buttonholes. Crochet a buttonhole loop (approx 5-6 ch) and place this on the inside of the right front piece and sew on a button at the top of the left front edge to keep the jacket in place – try on the jacket for placing of the buttonhole loop and button.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 96-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (61)

Aliye Ferda Kunt 06.08.2019 - 14:43:

Sorry for this but the pattern does not represent the model, this model couldn't have L, XL sizes, only the XS sizes could attend the result, starting as a shawl and it's width must be equal the most quarter of the chest size,which would be at most 21 cm. This is also rib stitches not the stockinette one. Best best regards, Ferda kunt

DROPS Design 08.08.2019 kl. 10:32:

Dear Mrs Kunt, this pattern has already been worked several times succesfully, make sure your tension is right in both height and width, do not hesitate to contact the store where you bought the yarn for any individual asssitance, showing them your work may help them to assist you the best way. Happy knitting!

Ferda Kunt 04.08.2019 - 23:05:

Hı, what about the reverse V at the skirt of the model, no explanation in the pattern. This is short of pattern, it doesn't represent what I see on the model. Anyway, I love this model so much Ferda

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 12:12:

Dear Mrs Kunt, to shape the bottom of the jacket you will increase towards mid front and towards mid back (= before dividing for armhole, when you work each piece separately and then when you work again all stitches together). Happy knitting!

Unsoldinodicacio 02.04.2019 - 15:47:

Grazie mille per la traduzione! considerato che il filato Highlander non eisiste più, con quale filato sarebbe meglio sostituirlo per avere una resa e una consistenza simili? grazie di nuovo

DROPS Design 02.04.2019 kl. 15:59:

Buongiorno Unsoldinodicacio. Highlander è un filato del gruppo E. Può sostituirlo con Andes o Eskimo (entrambi gruppo E), oppure con 2 capi di un filati del gruppo C, oppure 4 capi di un filato gruppo A. Il risultato più simile lo ottiene con Air usato doppio. Qui trova altre indicazioni utili sulla sostituzione dei filati. Buon lavoro!

Unsoldinodicacio 26.02.2019 - 11:19:

Salve, sarebbe possibile avere questo modello in italiano? ho provato a tradurlo ma temo di aver sbagliato qualcosa. grazie

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 12:04:

Buongiorno Unsoldinodicacio. Tradurremo il modello appena possibile. Buon lavoro!

Kim Kahn 23.01.2019 - 22:30:

I’d like this pattern but in USA, non metric measurements. Please email it to me if it exists Many thanks.

DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 08:25:

Dear Mrs Kahn, this pattern is now available in US-English. Happy knitting!

Rike Wunderlich 11.04.2016 - 16:50:

Auf dem bild sieht die jacke sehr schön aus und ich würde sie mir gerne mit eskimo nachstricken. nun glaube ich aber auf dem foto zu erkennen, dass dies keine krausrippe sondern ein eifaches patentmuster ist? selbst nach einem probestrick(nach Anleitung) ergibt sich mir nur das bild einer langgezogenen krausrippe indem die linksmasche optisch dominiert. auf dembild ist doch aber die rechte masche eindeutig dominierend, oder? lg rike

DROPS Design 12.04.2016 kl. 14:36:

Liebe Rike, es werden nur die Randmaschen und die Ränder mit Krausrippen gestrickt, der Rest wird glatt rechts gestrickt. Highlander war ein Garn mit einer Filzoptik, daher kann man das Maschenbild auf dem Foto vielleicht nicht so gut erkennen.

Sabine 02.06.2015 - 12:11:

Hallo, ich würde das Modell gern nacharbeiten, habe aber noch eine Frage: Ist die Jacke vorn und hinten gleich lang? (Neuerdings sind Jacken ja gern mal hinten kürzer als vorn, was mir nicht gefällt). Von der Skizze her würde ich sagen, ja sie ist gleich lang, aber auf dem Bild sieht es so aus, als wenn sie hinten kürzer wäre. Wäre schön, wenn Sie mir das sagen könnten. Viele Grüße von Sabine

DROPS Design 02.06.2015 kl. 23:22:

Die Jacke hat zwar an den Vorderteilen und am Rückenteil einen gleich hohen Schnitt, aber da sie schräg geknöpft wird, fallen die Vorderteile als Zipfel länger nach vorne als das Rückenteil.

Zlata Tomikj 26.09.2014 - 01:07:

Hi, I want to knit this jacket but I can't understand the final circumference of chest for Size: S/M – M/L ? There are to much numbers in the diagram and somehow my calculation isn't right?! Ex. for S i took the back panel with 19*4 pieces=76cm chest circumference.It looks more like XS instead S. Am I doing something wrong in calculating?

DROPS Design 26.09.2014 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Tomikj, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measures in each size, in cm (convert here into inches taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you like the shape to find out the matching size. Happy knitting

Sine Bjerkan 25.01.2014 - 15:54:

Jeg kan ikke gennemskue om jakken også har to spidser bagpå?

Sine Bjerkan 25.01.2014 - 15:46:

Jeg kan ikke helt gennemskue hvordan ryggen ser ud. Foran går den ned i to spidser - gør den også det bag på?

DROPS Design 28.01.2014 kl. 16:45:

Hej Sine. For- og bagstk er stort set identiske - men der er mere spids paa forst fordi der er taget mere ud.

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