DROPS / 95 / 35

Sea View by DROPS Design

DROPS Crochet jacket in Paris, Brushed Alpaca Silk and Safran. Size: XS - XXL

JACKET:
Size: XS-S – M – L – XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-86-96-106-114-126 cm / 30"-34"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-45"-49½"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''

Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
550-600-650-750-800-900 g color no. 25, moss green
and use:
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk from Garnstudio
25 g colour no 16, moss green (for borders)
and use:
DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
Remnants of colors used for bikini top

DROPS Crochet Hook size 5 mm / H/8
DROPS Crochet Hook size 3 mm / C (for buttons)

3 buttons (diam 2 cm / 3/4'') for crochet covers

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.95 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Crochet Gauge: width of 12 sc/tr and length of 4 rows of pattern (i.e. 1 row of sc + 1 row tr x 4) using crochet hook size 5 mm/ H/8 = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Crochet info: At the beginning of each row of sc replace the 1st sc with ch 1, and at the beginning of each row of tr replace the first tr with ch 4. Finish each row of sc with 1 sc in 4th ch from beginning of previous row. Finish each row of tr with 1 tr in 1st ch from previous row.

Pattern: *1 row of sc, 1 row of tr*, repeat from *-* until finished measurements. Note! Crochet in each st and not in between.

Decreasing tips: Only dec in rows of tr. Decreasing several tr:
Dec as follows at beginning of row: replace 1 tr with a sl st.
Dec as follows at end of row: Turn the piece when number of tr to be dec are left on row.
Decreasing 1 tr:
Dec 1 tr by crocheting 2 tr together as follows: crochet 1 tr but wait with last yo and pull through (= 2 st on hook), crochet 1 tr and pull thread through all sts on hook.

Increasing tips: Increase 1 sc/tr by crocheting 2 sc/tr in last st from previous row. Increase several sc/tr as follows: At the end of the row of sc before increases are to be made, crochet ch corresponding number of tr to be increased + 4 ch to turn with – i.e. if you are to increase 4 tr crochet ch 7, turn the piece, crochet 1 tr in 5th ch from the hook and then 1 tr in each of the next ch 2, continue on row.

Measuring tips: Because of the weight of the yarn, all measurements should be made while the garment is hanging.

BACK PIECE
Loosely ch 55-63-71-80-87-98 (includes 4 ch to turn with) using hook size 5 mm / H/8 and Paris.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 tr in the 5th. ch from the hook, 1tr in the next ch *skip 1ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* and finish with 1 tr in the last ch (for size L finish with 1 tr in each of the last 2 ch)= 40-46-52-59-64-72 tr, turn the piece. Continue in pattern – see explanation above.
When the piece measures approx 12 cm / 4¾'' inc a tr each side on every 8-8-9-12-12-12 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" a total of 3-3-3-2-2-2 times – see Increasing tips above = 46-52-58-63-68-76 sc/tr.
When the piece measures approx 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'' dec off for armhole each side on every tr row –see Decreasing tips - as follows: 4 tr 0-0-0-1-1-1 times, 3 tr 0-1-1-0-0-1 times, 2 tr 1-0-1-1-2-2 times and 1 tr 0-1-1-2-2-2 times = 42-44-46-47-48-50 tr left.
Cut the thread when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''.
Insert a marker on each side of the middle 12-12-12-13-14-14 sts (= neck).

RIGHT FRONT
Loosely ch 19-22-25-29-31-34 (includes 4 ch to turn with) using hook size 5 mm / H/8 and Paris.
Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 tr in the 5th ch from the hook, *skip 1ch, 1 tr in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size XS + XL finish with a tr in the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch) and for size S + XXL finish with a tr in the last 4 ch = 13-15-17-20-22-24 tr, turn the piece.
Read all of the following before continuing:
Front edges: Continue in pattern, at the same time inc towards mid front on every row of tr – see Increasing tips above - as follows: 4 tr 1 time, 3 tr 1 time and 1 tr 4-5-6-6-7-9 times. After the last inc insert a marking thread within the 4 outermost sts towards mid front – let the thread follow the piece as you progress.
Increases at side: At the same time, when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' inc as described for back piece.
Collar: At the same time when piece measures approx 30-32-34-36-38-40 cm / 11¾''-12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾ inc for collar mid front: 1 tr on every row of tr a total of 6 times.
Armhole: At the same time when piece measures approx 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'' dec for armhole as described for back piece.
When the inc for collar are complete (piece measures approx 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm / 17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8"), dec 13-13-13-13-14-14 tr towards mid front for neck and dec for neckline on every row of tr as follows: 2 tr 1 time and 1 tr 1 time = 15-16-17-17-17-18 sc/tr left on shoulder.
Continue until piece measures approx 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' (make sure it’s the same as back piece) and cut the thread.

LEFT FRONT
Crochet as right front piece, but mirrored.

SLEEVE
Ch 36-38-39-40-42-42 (includes 1 ch to turn with) using hook size 5 mm/ H/8 and Paris.
Crochet the 1st row as follows: 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, *skip 1ch, 1 sc in the next 3 ch* repeat from *-* but for size XS + L finish with 1 sc in the last 5 ch (instead of the last 3 ch), and size M finish with 1 sc in the last 4 ch = 28-29-30-31-32-32 sc, turn the piece. Crochet 1 sc in each sc from previous row.
When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'' insert a marker in piece (marks folding edge) and measure piece from this point from now on.
When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'' continue in pattern as on back and front pieces.
When piece measures approx 14-16-16-17-17-19 cm / 5½"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-7½" inc 1 sc/tr each side on every 7-6-5-4-3.5-2.5 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/8"-2"-1½"-1 1/4"-7/8" a total of 6-6-7-8-9-10 times – see Increasing tips = 40-41-44-47-50-52 sc/tr.
When piece measures 51-49-49-47-48-45 cm / 20"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-18½"-19"-17 3/4" dec for sleeve cap each side on every row of tr as follows: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 1 time and 1 tr each side until piece measures approx 56-57-57-57-58-58 cm / 22''-22½''-22½''-22½''-22¾''-22¾''. Cut the thread.

ASSEMBLY
Sew shoulder seams – the shoulder on back piece ends by the marking thread. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams – leave approx 4 cm / 1½'' at sleeve edges for slit.

COLLAR
Crochet approx 28 to 36 sc round the neck using crochet hook size 5 mm / H/8 and Paris – crochet from the right side and start by marker on right front piece, crochet around neck and finish by marker on left front piece. Crochet pattern.
When collar measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' inc 5 sc/tr evenly along neck edge on back piece (inc 1 sc/tr by crocheting 2 sc/tr in same st). Repeat the increase when collar measures 8 cm / 3 1/8''. When collar measures approx 9-10 cm / 3½"-4'' cut the thread.

CROCHET BORDER
Crochet a border round all edges including the sleeve edges on crochet hook size 5 mm /H/8 and Brushed Alpaca Silk as follows: 1sc in the first st, *1 ch, skip approx 1 cm / 3/8'' (the edge should be nice and straight not wavy), 1 sc in the next st.* repeat from *-* and finish with 1 ch in first sc from beginning of round.

CROCHET BUTTONS
Crochet button covers using crochet hook size 3 mm/C and remnants of Safran (change color for each round).

Colour suggestion 1: 1 st round: light blue, 2 nd round: light purple, 3 rd round: orange, 5 th round: Apple green
Colour suggestion 2: 1 st round: orange, 2 nd round: light purple, 3 rd round: apple green, 4 th round: blue-purple, 5 th round: orange
Colour suggestion 3: 1 st round: Apple green, 2 nd round: orange, 3 rd round: blue-purple, 4 th and 5 th round: light blue

1 button: ch 2, 8 sc in the first of the ch, 1 sl st in 1st sc (= 1st round)
2nd round: 2 sc in each sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beginning of round (= 16 sc)
3rd + 4th round: 1 sc in each sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beginning of round (= 16 sc)
5th round: 1 sc in every other sc and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beginning of round (= 8 sc)
Put buttons in cover, sew round the opening and fasten thread.
Place buttons on left front piece, the top one approx 1 cm / 3/8'' under the collar and the lower one approx 20 to 26 cm / 8" to 10" from the bottom edge.
_______________________________________________________

BIKINI TOP

Size: S – M – L, equivalent to cup size A - B – C

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
50-50-50 g color no. 14, olive
50-50-50 g color no. 15, heather
50-50-50 g color no. 02, rose
50-50-50 g color no. 28, orange
50-50-50 g color no. 31, pistachio

DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm / C

Crochet gauge: 22 dc x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''

Crochet info: Turn the piece with 3 ch.

Increasing tips: Inc 2 dc by crocheting 3 dc in dc by marking thread.

Stripes: Each stripe = 1 row of dc. Crochet stripes in the following order: pistachio, rose, heather, orange, olive.

CUP
Crochet each cup separately from bottom up.
Ch 46-55-64 using hook size 3 mm / C and olive.
1st row: 1 sc in the 3rd ch from the hook, *skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sc in the last ch = 31-37-43 sc (the first sc = 2 ch). Turn the piece.
2nd row: ch 5, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next st, *1 ch, skip 1 sc, 1 dc in next st*, repeat from *-* = 15-18-21 ch spaces. Turn the piece.
3rd row: Crochet 1 dc in each st from previous row – see Crochet info = 31-37-43 dc. Insert a marker in the middle dc and let the marker follow the piece as you progress.
Next rows: Change to pistachio and crochet stripes as described above. Crochet 1 dc in each dc, at the same time inc 2 dc in the middle of the piece – see Increasing tips above – on the next 4-4-5 rows = 39-45-53 dc.
Now start decreasing in the middle of the piece.
On first row skip 1 dc by marker, on the following rows skip 2 dc and continue until there are 4 dc left - the piece now measures approx 20-23-27 cm / 8"-9"-10½".
Change to olive and crochet tie-string over the top 4 dc, 1 dc in each dc until string measures approx 40 cm / 15 3/4''. Cut the thread.

Crochet one more cup.

Twisted string:
Cut 5 strands of olive each measuring 3 meters/ 3.2 yds.
Twist them and fold them double, let the 2 ends twist together and tie a knot each end.
Insert string through holes at lower bikini edge.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.05.2018
DROPS Vienna has been replaced by DROPS Alpaca Silk, and amount adjusted accordingly. The section regarding colour suggestions for the button covers has been added

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 95-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Parizet 05.04.2018 - 10:33:

Bonjour Avez vous le diagramme car je trouve les explications très compliquées Merci

DROPS Design 05.04.2018 kl. 11:17:

Bonjour Mme Parizet, il n'y a pas de diagrammes pour ce modèle, lisez attentivement les explications et n'hésitez pas à poser une question si besoin. Bon crochet!

Madelon 17.06.2017 - 13:36:

Ik wil graag verder met het linker voorpand, dat ik gespiegeld van het rechtervoorpand moet haken. Maar, hoe doe ik de meerderingen aan het begin. In de instructie staat alleen het meerderen aan het eind van een tr. Het gaat met name om de meerderingen van 4 en 3 dst, de enkele lukt wel. Ik hoor het graag!

DROPS Design 17.06.2017 kl. 19:47:

Hoi Madelon, Dit staat inderdaad niet duidelijk beschreven in de instructies. Misschien heb je wat aan deze video, waarin uitgelegd wordt hoe je steken opzet tijdens het haken. Dit kun je namelijk ook gebruiken bij het meerderen aan het eind van de toer.

Wilms Anke 28.03.2017 - 18:30:

Hallo, ich arbeite gerade an der Jacke 95/35. Im Vorderteil habe ich Maschen angeschlagen und soll dann Erhöhen zur inneren Mitte...

DROPS Design 29.03.2017 kl. 09:18:

Liebe Frau Wilms, die Zunahmen gegen Mitte werden wie im Video unten gehäkelt, siehe auch 3Beim Zunehmen mehrerer D-Stb" am Anfang der Anleitung. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Wilms Anke 27.03.2017 - 09:19:

Hallo, herzliche Danke für soviel tolle Anleitungen. Eigentlich komme ich auch ganz gut klar, aber bei dieser klappt es nicht so ... Können Sie mir bitte erklären, wie das mit dem " Erhöhen zur inneren Mitte" geht. Das wäre echt toll. Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße

DROPS Design 27.03.2017 kl. 10:03:

Dear Frau Wilms, können Sie bitte erklären, im welchem Teil Sie in der Anleitung sind, bzw welches Teil Sie nicht richtig verstehen? Danke im voraus.

Marielle Klerks 18.03.2017 - 23:27:

Ik ben bezig met het achterpand op de hoogte van 12 cm, waar ik moet meerderen. Er staat dat ik aan elke kant 9cm (m) in totaal 3 keer moet meerderen. Je gaat dan van 52 dst naar 58dst. Of het aantal steken of het aantal cm klopt niet.

DROPS Design 20.03.2017 kl. 13:25:

Hoi Marielle. Je meerdert 1 stk aan beide zijkanten 3 keer = 6 nieuwe stokjes: 52+6 = 58 stokjes. Je meerdert op elke 8 cm voor maat S (52 stokjes), dus op 12 cm, dan op 20 en laatste keer op 28 cm.

HOCHET Valérie 07.09.2016 - 22:37:

Merci de m'avoir répondu et rapidement en plus. Je vais regarder tout ça.

HOCHET Valérie 07.09.2016 - 14:41:

Je fais suite à mon message plus. si vous pensez que cela n'ira pas, pouvez vous alors me conseiller : 1) avec quel fil moins onéreux je pourrai réaliser cette veste 2) quel autre gilet pourrai je réaliser avec le fil DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK UNI

DROPS Design 07.09.2016 kl. 15:49:

Bonjour Mme Hochet, vous pouvez calculer d'après les liens du message précédents quelle qualité choisir. Vous trouverez ici et des modèles de gilets et de vestes en groupe du fil C. Votre magasin DROPS saura vous conseiller le meilleur choix si besoin. Bon crochet!

HOCHET Valérie 07.09.2016 - 12:39:

Bonjour. Pensez vous que je pourrais faire le modèle de veste DROPS 95-35 by DROPS Design Veste Drops au crochet et Haut de Bikini en Paris, Brushed Alpaca Silk et Safran uniquement avec le fil DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. cela aura t il le même effet, ou n'aura t il pas le même maintien. Je débute au crochet et vos conseils sont précieux. Merci

DROPS Design 07.09.2016 kl. 13:54:

Bonjour Mme Hochet, la veste se crochète entièrement en Paris, on utilise Brushed Alpaca Silk uniquement pour la bordure et Safran pour les boutons. Le haut de bikini se fait uniquement en Safran. Paris est du groupe C vous pouvez la remplacer par un autre fil du groupe C ou 2 fils du groupe A - voir aussi ici. Bon crochet!

Colleen Wilkowske 21.04.2016 - 06:59:

I am making the size XL and working on the right side. My stitch counts do not equal 17 as stated at the end of the directions for the right side, I have 15. I have torn out my work and recalculated the pattern repeatedly and cannot make it come out to 17. Is there an error in the pattern, or did I do something wrong?

DROPS Design 21.04.2016 kl. 09:43:

Dear Mrs Wilkowske, you should dec for neck only 2 tr 1 time and 1 tr 1 time = 17 sts in size XL for shoulder. Pattern will be edited asap. Thank you. Happy crocheting!

Eva 23.03.2016 - 09:50:

Hej! Jag blir tokig, jag virkar i garnet Paris virknål nr5, garnet delar sig hela tiden när jag skall göra dubbelstolpar. Finns det något tips? /Eva

DROPS Design 30.03.2016 kl. 15:30:

Hej Eva, Se till att nystanet får rulla fritt, men annars brukar vi inte ha problem med att det delar sig. Lycka till!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 95-35

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.