DROPS / 59 / 16

Cozy Family Cardigan by DROPS Design

DROPS Men’s Cardigan in Angora-Tweed

ADULT'S CARDIGAN:

Sizes:
Women’s: Small/Medium - Medium/Large
Finished measurements: 116-124 cm
Men’s: (Small/Medium - Medium/Large - Extra Large - 2XLarge)
Finished measurements: 118-126-132-138 cm
Men’s numbers/measurements are in ( )

Materials: DROPS ANGORA-TWEED from Garnstudio
750-800 (850-900-950-1000) g. Col. 06, brown

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.
Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on larger needles and pattern = 10 x 10 cm .
NOTE: Row gauge is very important during raglan shaping.

CHILD'S CARDIGAN:

Sizes: 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 (9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14) years
Finished measurements: 76-80-86-92 (98-104-108) cm

Materials: DROPS ANGORA-TWEED from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500 (550-600-650) g. Col. 07, rust red

DROPS 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm circular and double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge.

6 DROPS Dark nut-buttons (no. 514).

Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows on larger needles and pattern = 10 x 10 cm .
NOTE: Row gauge is very important during raglan shaping.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
ADULT'S CARDIGAN:

Rib: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from * - *.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.

Pattern:
Row 1: K all sts
Row 2: * K 1, P 1 *. Repeat from * - *.
Repeat these two rows.

Pocket lining: Cast on 30 sts on larger needles with brown and knit 10 cm stockinette st, purl 1 row (= folding edge), K 10 cm stockinette st, put sts on a stitch holder. Knit 2 of these.

Body: First knit pocket linings. Numbers in ( ) = men’s sizes. Cast on 267-283 (271-287-299-311) sts on smaller circular needles and knit rib for 5-5 (6-6-6-6) cm , keeping the 11 sts at each edge in garter st for the buttonbands throughout. When the rib measures 2 cm , make a buttonhole on the appropriate side as follows: bind off the 6th and 7th sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row. When the rib measures 5-5 (6-6-6-6) cm , put the 11 buttonband sts on each side on a stitch holder, change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern, increasing 1 st on each edge (center front) for seam - knit this st in garter st throughout = 247-263 (251-267-279-291) sts. When the work measures 15-15 (16-16-16-16) cm , knit the next row as follows: 1 edge st, 12 sts pattern, put 30 sts on a stitch holder for pocket, 161-177 (165-181-193-205) sts pattern, put 30 sts on a stitch holder for pocket, 12 sts pattern, 1 edge st.
On the next row, put the pocket lining in on the needles in the opening over the 30 sts on the stitch holder. Continue with Pattern.
When the work measures 34-37 (39-40-41-43) cm knit the next row as follows: 58-62 (59-63-66-69) sts for the front, bind off 8 sts for armhole, 115-123 (117-125-131-137) sts for the back, bind off 8 sts for armhole, 58-62 (59-63-66-69) sts for the front. Put the work aside.

Sleeves: Cast on 54-56 (56-56-58-58) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 5-5 (6-6-6-6) cm . Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 23-25 (25-27-26-27) times:
Sizes S/M (S/M): alternately every 4th and 5th row
Sizes M/L (M/L + XL + XXL): every 4th row
= 100-106 (106-110-110-112) sts - knit the increased sts into the Pattern as you go along. When the work measures 45-45 (49-50-49-49) cm , bind off 4 sts each side of marker = 92-98 (98-102-102-104) sts. Put the work aside.

Body: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as the body where 8 sts are bound off = 415-443 (431-455-467-483) sts on needles. Attach a marker in each transition between the sleeves and the body (4 markers). Continue Pattern, but knit 1 st on each side of each marker in stockinette st (2 sts stockinette st in each transition between body and sleeve).

Raglan shaping: Read the entire next section before knitting!

Dec 1 st each side of the 2 transition stockinette sts every other row 31-30 (31-31-35-37) times, then every row 11-15 (13-16-13-12) times (8 sts decreased per row).

Make decreases as follows:
Before the 2 transition sts:
Right side: K 2 tog.
Wrong side: Lift 2 sts off the needles, put them back on the left needle twisted (one by one), P 2 tog into the back of the st.
After the 2 transition sts:
Right side: Slip 1, K 1, pass the slipped st over (psso).
Wrong side: P 2 tog.

At the same time as the raglan shaping, shape the neck at each front edge. When the work measures 44-46 (49-50-51-53) cm , bind off for the neck every other row: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 8-7 (5-6-7-9) times, then every 4th row: 1 st 3-4 (4-4-5-5) times, and then every 6th row: 1 st 1-2 (2-2-2-2) times.

After the last raglan decrease the work measures approx. 60-64 (65.5-68-70.5-73.5) cm -- 47-49 (49-47-47-51) sts remain on the needles. Bind off. The cardigan’s measurement up to the shoulder = 62-66 (68-70-72-75) cm .

Assembly: Sew together the 8 sts at each underarm.

Pockets: Put the sts from the stitch holder on larger double pointed needles and knit approx. 2.5 cm rib, bind off. Sew the rib side edges to the body. Fold the pocket lining double, sew the edges together and then sew the pocket lining to the rib edge of the pocket.

Left (Right for men’s sizes) buttonband: Put the sts from the stitch holder on smaller double pointed needles and knit rib with brown, keeping the outer edge st in garter st throughout. Bind off when the buttonband measures approx. 67-72 (75-77-80-84) cm (measure to fit along the front and around the neck to the center back).

Right (Left for men’s sizes) buttonband: Knit like the left, but make buttonholes when the buttonband measures:
Size S/M: 12.5 - 22 - 32 - 44 cm
Size M/L: 13 - 24 - 35 - 46 cm
Size (S/M): 11.5 - 21 - 30 - 39.5 - 49 cm
Size (M/L): 11.5 - 21 - 31 - 40.5 - 50 cm
Size (XL): 11.5 - 21.5 - 31.5 - 41.5 - 51 cm
Size (XXL): 12.5 - 22.5 - 32.5 - 42.5 - 53 cm
(1 buttonhole = bind off the 6th and 7th sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row.)

Sew the buttonbands to the fronts and the back neck. Weave together at the center back. Sew on the buttons.
________________________________________



CHILD'S CARDIGAN:

Rib: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from * - *.

Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter st, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, P.* Repeat from * - *.

Pattern:
Row 1: K all sts
Row 2: * K 1, P 1 *. Repeat from * - *.
Repeat these two rows.

Pocket lining: Cast on 19-21-23-25 (25-25-25) sts on larger needles and knit 10 cm stockinette st, purl 1 row (= folding edge), knit 10 cm stockinette st, put sts on a stitch holder. Knit 2 of these.

Body: First knit pocket linings. Cast on 171-183-199-211 (223-239-247) sts on smaller circular needles and knit rib for 4-4-4-4 (5-5-5) cm , but knit the 7-7-9-9 (9-11-11) sts at each edge (center front) in garter st. When the rib measures 2 cm , bind off for buttonholes on the appropriate side as follows:
Sizes 2 + 3/4 years: the 3rd and 4th sts
Sizes 5/6 + 7/8 + 9/10 years: the 4th and 5th sts
Sizes 11/12 + 13/14 years: the 5th and 6th sts
-- cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row. When the rib measures 4-4-4-4 (5-5-5) cm , put the 7-7-9-9 (9-11-11) edge sts on each side (buttonband) on a stitch holder, change to larger circular needles and knit Pattern over the remaining sts, increasing 1 st on each edge (center front) for seam - knit this st in garter st throughout = 159-171-183-195 (207-219-227) sts. When the work measures 14-14-14-14 (15-15-15) cm , knit the next row as follows: 1 edge st, 8-8-8-10 (10-10-10) sts pattern, put 19-21-23-25 (25-25-25) sts on a stitch holder for pocket, 103-111-119-123 (135-147-155) sts pattern, put 19-21-23-25 (25-25-25) sts on a stitch holder for pocket, 8-8-8-10 (10-10-10) sts pattern, 1 edge st. On the next row, put the pocket lining in on the needles in the opening over the 19-21-23-25 (25-25-25) sts on the stitch holder. Continue with Pattern. When the work measures 26-29-31-32 (33-35-37) cm , knit the next row as follows: 38-40-43-46 (48-51-53) sts for the front, bind off 4-6-6-6 (8-8-8) sts for armhole, 75-79-85-91 (95-101-105) sts for the back, bind off 4-6-6-6 (8-8-8) sts for armhole, 38-40-43-46 (48-51-53) sts for the front. Put the work aside.

Sleeves: Cast on 42-42-46-50 (50-52-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 4-4-4-4 (5-5-5) cm . Change to larger double pointed needles and knit Pattern. After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 6-13-13-15 (17-18-20) times:
Size 2 years: every 8th row
Sizes 3/4 + 7/8 + 9/10 + 11/12 + 13/14 years: every 5th row
Size 5/6 years: alternately every 5th and 6th row
= 54-68-72-80 (84-88-92) sts - knit the increased sts into the Pattern as you go along. When the work measures 24-29-32-35 (39-41-45) cm , bind off 2-3-3-3 (4-4-4) sts each side of marker = 50-62-66-74 (76-80-84) sts. Put the work aside.

Body: Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as the body where 4-6-6-6 (8-8-8) sts are bound off = 251-283-303-331 (343-363-379) sts on needles. Attach a marker in each transition between the sleeves and the body = 4 markers. Continue Pattern and at the same time knit 1 st on each side of the markers in stockinette st (2 sts stockinette st in each transition between body and sleeve).

Raglan shaping: Read the entire next section before knitting!
Dec 1 st on each side of the 2 transition stockinette sts every other row 19-18-19-22 (24-24-26) times, then every row 4-8-9-9 (8-10-10) times (8 decreased sts per row)
Make decreases as follows:
Before the 2 transition sts:
Right side: K 2 tog.
Wrong side: Lift the next 2 sts off the needles, put them back on the left needle twisted (one by one), P 2 tog into the back of the sts.
After the 2 transition sts:
Right side: Slip 1, K 1, psso.
Wrong side: P 2 tog.

At the same time as the raglan shaping, shape the neck at each front edge. When the work measures 32-36-38-41 (42-44-46) cm , bind off for the neck every other row: 2 sts 4-3-3-3 (3-3-3) times, 1 st 7-8-9-8 (9-9-9) times, then every 4th row: 1 st 0-0-0-1 (1-2-2) times. After the last raglan decrease, the work measures approx. 41-44.5-47.5-51 (53-56-59) cm and 37-47-49-53 (55-57-57) sts remain on the needles. Bind off. The cardigan’s measurement up to the shoulder = 42-47-50-54 (56-59-62) cm .

Assembly: Sew together the 4-6-6-6 (8-8-8) sts at the underarm.

Pockets: Put the sts from the stitch holder on smaller needles and knit 2-2-2-2.5 (2.5-2.5-2.5) cm rib, bind off. Sew the rib edges to the sweater. Fold the pocket lining double, sew the edges together and then sew the pocket lining to the rib edge of the pocket.

Left (right for boys) buttonband: Put the sts from the stitch holder on smaller double pointed needles and knit rib, keeping the outer edge st in garter st throughout. Bind off when the buttonband measures approx. 49-53-57-61 (63-67-70) cm (adjust for and measure along the front and around the neck to the center back).

Right(left for boys) buttonband: Knit like the left, but make buttonholes when the buttonband measures:
Size 2 years: 8-14-20-26-32 cm
Size 3/4 years: 8.5 -15.5 -22.5 -29.5 -36 cm
Size 5/6 years: 9.5 -16.5 -23.5 -30.5 -38 cm
Size 7/8 years: 9.5 -17.5 -25.5 -33.5 -41 cm
Size 9/10 years: 10 -18 -26 -34 -42 cm
Size 11/12 years: 10.5 -19 -27 -35.5 -44 cm
Size 13/14 years: 10.5 -19.5 -28.5 -37.5 -46 cm

To make buttonhole, bind off:
Sizes 2 + 3/4 years: the 4th and 5th sts
Sizes 5/6 + 7/8 + 9/10 years: the 5th and 6th sts
Sizes 11/12 + 13/14 years: the 6th and 7th sts. Cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row.
Sew the buttonbands to the fronts and the back neck. Weave together at the center back. Sew on the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.07.2019
Correction - CHILD, SLEEVE: After the rib, inc 1 st each side of marker 6-13-13-15 (17-18-20) times:
Size 2 years: every 8th row
Sizes 3/4 + 7/8 + 9/10 + 11/12 + 13/14 years: every 5th row
Size 5/6 years: alternately every 5th and 6th row

Diagram

= adult
= child


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 59-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (8)

Elke 10.07.2019 - 06:10:

Ich stricke die Kinderjacke in Grösse 5/6. Beim Ärmel fehlt diese Angabe. Dafür gibt es die Zunahmen für Größe 3/4 "zweimal". Ich vermute, dass ich in jeder 5. Reihe 2 Maschen zunehmen muss. Ist das korrekt?

DROPS Design 05.08.2019 kl. 16:07:

Liebe Elke, danke für den Hinweis, die Anleitung wurde korrigiert. Bei Größe 5/6 Jahre wird man abwechslungsweise bei jeder 5. und 6. Rd. abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Elke Willems 29.06.2019 - 16:37:

Ich vermisse in der Anleitung das Diagramm M1 für das Muster.

DROPS Design 01.07.2019 kl. 15:36:

Liebe Frau Willems, bei der Kinderjacke gibt es kein Diagram, man muss im Muster stricken - die deutsche Anleitung wurde angepasst, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Birgitte Hylander Andreassen 17.05.2016 - 12:45:

Hej! Vil gerne strikke drops 59-16 og mangle hvilken løbelængde det udgået Karisma Uld- Tweed havde? Det er jo ikke sikkert at det har samme løbelængder, som Jeres alternative garn. MVH Birgitte Hylander Andreasse

DROPS Design 17.05.2016 kl. 13:31:

Hej Birgitte. Her er alt du vil vide om Karisma Uld-Tweed. (Kan ogsaa ses ved at klikke paa "Udgået"). God fornöjelse.

Yvonn Landeholm 15.11.2013 - 21:54:

Ärm-ökningen för 5/6 år finns inte beskrivet, däremot 3/4 har två olika beskrivningar. Vad gäller för 5/6 år?

Kelli Schultz 22.06.2013 - 09:52:

Hi I am knitting the childs cardigan of Drops 59-16 on this page On the increase for sleeves I need the sz5-6 option but there appears to be an error as it has two sz3-4 instructions. Could you please tell me how often the increases are for sz5-6 thanks.

DROPS Design 24.06.2013 kl. 14:04:

Dear Mrs Schultz, your question has been sent to our Design team, we'll answer as soon as possible. Thank you for your patience.

DROPS Design 18.05.2010 - 08:19:

Rett siden = forsiden

Hilde Pedersen 16.05.2010 - 23:37:

Hvilken side er rett siden?

Mireille 16.03.2009 - 10:55:

Peut on avoir des modèles jeunes enfants? ce serait bien

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