DROPS Extra / 0-58

DROPS Extra 0-58 by DROPS Design

DROPS summer top with lace pattern and short sleeves. Size S – L.

Size: S-M-L. Chest: 86-94-102 cm. Full length: 52-54-56 cm.
Materials: DROPS Paris from Garnstudio
350-400-400 g colour no 44, brown

DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm and double pointed needles size 4 mm (for neck) - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st and 13 sts x 27 rows in pattern on needle size 4.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the RS. English explanations to the diagrams are given at the bottom of this page.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, in the round: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Decreasing tip: Make all dec from RS:
Dec as follows after 3 garter sts: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
Dec as follows before 3 garter sts: K2 tog.

Front piece: Cast on 80-86-94 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm and work 2 cm stocking st with edge sts in garter st – see above. Work next row as follows: K1, *K2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* across the row, and finish with K1 (= folding edge, measure piece from here). Continue in stocking st with edge sts in garter st. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 32-32-33 cm from folding edge continue in M.1 with edge sts in garter st, at the same time dec 18-22-26 sts evenly on first row = 62-64-68 sts. When piece measures 33-34-35 cm work 2 rows garter st on 6 sts each side (incl edge st) and on next row cast off 3 sts each side for armhole. Now cast off to shape the armhole each side inside 3 garter sts – see decreasing tip: 1 st 5-5-6 times = 46-48-50 sts. Continue in M.1 with 3 garter sts each side. When piece measures 46-48-50 cm cast off the middle 12-12-14 sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 3 times = 10-11-11 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56 cm.

Back piece: Cast on and work like front piece. Cast off for armhole each side as described for front piece and continue until piece measures 50-52-54 cm. Now cast off the middle 22-22-24 sts for neck and complete each side separately. Cast off 2 sts on neckline on next row = 10-11-11 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 52-54-56 cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 40-43-46 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm and work 4 rows garter st. Continue in M.1 with 1 garter st each side, at the same time dec 10-11-12 sts evenly on first row = 30-32-34 sts. Now cast off for sleeve cap each side inside the garter st as follows: 1 st 4-5-5 times on every 4th row and then 1 st 8-8-9 times on every other row = 6 sts left on row. NOTE: work sts not fitting into pattern when dec in stocking st until they fit into pattern again. Cast off, sleeve measures approx 12-13-14 cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 80 to 100 sts round neckline on double pointed needles size 4 mm and work 4 rounds garter st, cast off. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Fold bottom edge towards WS and fasten.

English explanation to pattern diagram:

= K
= P
= K2 tog, 1 YO
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-58) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Awdj 23.07.2019 - 15:32:

L.S., Ik zag het... ik zocht eigenlijk naar de verschillende maten in cm. Verkeerde vraag sorry Dus een overzicht-tekening van het truitje in verschillende maten in de bijbehorende cm'ers dank u voor uw snelle reactie

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 08:25:

Dag Awdj,

Aha, ik snap het. Nee, er is helaas geen schema tekening met de maten bij dit ietwat oudere patroon. De bovenwijdte en de lengte staan bovenaan wel per maat aangegeven.

Awdj 23.07.2019 - 11:31:

Hallo Heeft u het diagram M1 ook vertaald in het Nederlands... ik kan het wel beetje eruit opmaken maar ik ben graag zeker van mn zaak. Dank u

DROPS Design 23.07.2019 kl. 12:25:

Dag Awdj,

Vlak boven het telpatroontje staat de Nederlandse vertaling van de symbolen. (Dus onderaan het geschreven patroon.)

Reine 15.04.2019 - 17:34:

Bonjour avant de commencer le pull d'été femme "drops extra 0-58 je me suis aperçu que les explications de ce modèle ne comprenaient pas le schéma croquis avec les mesures merci pour le retour

DROPS Design 15.04.2019 kl. 18:11:

Bonjour Reine! There is no measurement sketch to this pattern. The measurements are provided at the top: chest: 86-94-102 cm. Full length: 52-54-56 cm. The chest size is measured all the way round. Measurements for sleeves are provided under "sleeves". Happy knitting!

Yvonne 10.03.2019 - 17:43:

Dit truitje wil ik graag breien. Hebben jullie ook een overzichtspatroon met de afmetingen van de verschillen maten in cm's?

Marjolijne Tollenaar 08.03.2019 - 14:59:

Hallo redactie, Ik heb met plezier mee gestemd op de modellen voor spring 2019. heb ook favoreiten opgeschreven,nrs. Alleen nu zijn de nrs veranderd en kan ik mijn favorieten die ik wil breien niet meer vinden. Kun u mij de juiste nrs geven : 171,041,294,844,293,853. Ja ik heb al in de boeken gekeken,maar niks gevonden. En deze nr doen het ook niet in de zoekmachine voor patroon nrs. mvg, Marjolijne Tollenaar.

DROPS Design 15.03.2019 kl. 18:58:

Dag Marjolijne,

Alle patronen op de site hebben 2 nummers, namelijk het nummer van het boek en het nummer van het patroon. Daarnaast heeft elk patroon nog een eigen modelnummer of code welke bestaat uit een of meer letters plus een getal, deze heeft bijvoorbeeld code w-257). Toen je kon stemmen stond deze laatste code erbij en om het patroon op de site te vinden heb je deze code nodig. Daarnaast is het zo dat nog niet alle patroon van de Lente & Zomer collectie op de site staan. Er worden tot en met de zomer (juli) patronen geplaatst.

Herma Haase 02.03.2019 - 18:57:

Ik wil graag het truitje breien. Het patroon staat er alleen in het Engels opBeetje lastig voor mij . Kan het misschien ook in het Hollands vertaald worden? Bij voorbaat hartelijk dank.

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 19:50:

Dag Herma,

Het patroon zal ik voor je vertalen, binnen ongeveer een week. Houd de site in de gaten!

Guay 16.07.2018 - 23:48:

Bonjour dans le patron français je ne comprend pas le diagramme car les signes ne sont pas en français et je ne comprend pas cette langue..Merci de bien vouloir me donner les explications .. et au plaisir j\\\\\\\'asdore vos patrons .

DROPS Design 17.07.2018 kl. 09:25:

Bonjour Mme Guay et merci. Vous trouverez la traduction de la légende des diagrammes à la fin des explications en français, juste au-dessus du diagramme, dans le même ordre (de haut en bas): 1er symbole = 1 m env sur l'env (= qui apparaîtra comme 1 m end sur l'end), 2ème symbole = 1 m end sur l'env (= qui apparaîtra comme 1 m env sur l'end) et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Emeline 22.02.2017 - 14:33:

Bonjour, dans la traduction française du motif, n'y aurait-il pas une erreur dans la traduction du dernier symbole ? "1 jeté, glisser 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passer le m glissée par dessus la m tricotée, 1 jeté" : je ne comprends pas pourquoi il faut rajouter le dernier jeté . Pour chaque motif M1, cela ferait 3 m de plus par rapport aux autres rangs. Merci par avance de votre retour, et surtout pour ces beaux modèles gratuit que vous mettez sur votre site ! Cordialement

DROPS Design 23.02.2017 kl. 10:19:

Bonjour Emeline, c'est exact, le 2ème jeté de ce symbole a été supprimé, il ne doit y en avoir qu'un pour compenser la diminution. Merci, bon tricot!

Isabelle 21.03.2015 - 20:19:

Ist das Diagramm wie sonst in den Hin- und Rückreihen von rechts nach links zu lesen? Oder geht es darum, die Umschläge rechts zu stricken und die Maschen dazwischen links?

DROPS Design 23.03.2015 kl. 11:35:

Ja, das Muster wird wie üblich gelesen, in Hin-R von rechts nach links und in Rück-R von links nach rechts. Es sind alle Muster-R eingezeichnet, wie sie auf der Vorderseite erscheinen. Die Umschläge erscheinen auf der Vorderseite also rechts (werden in der Rück-R li abgestrickt) und die zusammengestrickten M erscheinen auf der Vorderseite links (werden in der Rück-R re gestrickt).

Sylvia Herndler 11.03.2015 - 14:41:

Mir kommt der Ärmel in der Breite (nach der Maschenprobe würde es sich meiner Rechnung nach um 24 cm handeln) zu eng vor. Kann es sein, dass er nicht geschlossen an den Armausschnitt angesetzt wird sondern nur soweit er halt reicht, wenn man die Mitte des Ärmels an die Schulternaht legt? Eine Anregung: ich fände Schnittzeichnungen sehr hilfreich, dann komme ich auch zurecht, wenn meine Maschenprobe etwas anders ausfällt als angegeben. Vielen Dank im Voraus für eine Erklärung bez. Ärmel.

DROPS Design 11.03.2015 kl. 22:07:

In der Regel gibt es zu unseren Anleitungen Schnittzeichnungen, denn sie sind ja wirklich eine gute Hilfe zum Verständnis. Hier handelt es sich jedoch um eine sehr alte Anleitung, daher ist keine Schnittzeichnung vorhanden. Ich denke, der Ärmel wird nicht komplett in den gesamten Armausschnitt genäht, mindestens die ersten jeweils 3 M an Vorder- und Rückenteil, die abgekettet wurden (d.h. beidseitig 6 M) bleiben "offen", also ohne Ärmel. Ich würde den Ärmel wie von Ihnen vorgeschlagen mittig ab der Schulternaht einnähen, auf dem Foto erscheint er auch eher wie ein "Flügel", ähnlich z.B. dem Modell 138-8 (vom Raglan abgesehen).

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