DROPS Baby / 1 / 9

Baby Joy by DROPS Design

DROPS Suit and socks in lace pattern in Safran.

Tags: lace, overalls, sets, socks,
Suit:

Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months

Materials: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
150-200 (250-300) g col 017, white

Suit and socks:
200-250 (250-300) g col 017, white

DROPS circular needle: 2.5mm and 3mm.
DROPS stright needles: 2.5mm and 3mm, or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.

DROPS buttons: 12 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 0.70 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 0.70 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Tension: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3mm in stocking st = 10x10cm.

Moss st: 1st row: K1, P1. 2nd row: Work P over K and K over P. Repeat rows 1 and 2.

Hem: Work 2cm in stocking st. Next row: *K2tog, yo* (=folding edge – all measurements are taken from here), work 2 cm in stocking st.

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 repeat). Pattern is seen from RS.
Hb=Right leg
Vb=Left leg

Left leg: Cast on 80-88 (90-90) sts on needles size 2.5mm with white. Work hem. Change to needles size 3mm. Work M.1. and at the same time dec 8-10 (6-6) sts evenly on 1st row = 72-78 (84-84) sts. Inc each side inside 1 edge st 1 st 3-3 (6-6) times for 3 months: every 6th row, for 6/9 months: every 7th row, for 12/18 + 24 months: every 4th row = 78-84 (96-96) sts. Remember to check knitting tension. Continue until piece measures 7-8 (9-10) cm.
Put work aside.

Right leg: Work as left leg.

Body: Put left right and left leg on a circ needle and work in the round = 156-168 (192-192) sts. Continue in pattern until piece measures 16-17 (18-19) cm. Cast off 6 sts centre front for slit and finish piece working back and forth on needle. Cast on 4 sts on right side for button band. These 4 sts are worked in moss st. Continue until piece measures 31-34 (37-40) cm. Work next row as follows: work 36-39 (45-45) sts in M.1, cast off 2-3 (3-3) sts for arm hole, work 74-78 (90-90) sts in M.1, cast off 2-3 (3-3) sts for arm hole, work 36-39 (45-45) sts in M.1. Finish each side separately.

Right front: = 40-43 (49-49) sts. Dec for arm hole on every other row as follows: 1 st 2-3 (3-3) times = 38-40 (46-46) sts. The 4 front sts is still worked in moss st. Continue until piece measures 36-41 (45-49) cm. Dec for neck on every other row as follows: 9-11 (13-14) sts once, 2 sts once, 1 st 5 times.
Continue until piece measures 43-48 (52-56) cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Left front: = 36-39 (45-45) sts. Dec for arm hole on every other row as follows: 1 st 2-3 (3-3) times = 34-36 (42-42) sts. Continue until piece measures 36-41 (45-49) cm. Dec for neck on every other row as follows: 5-7 (9-10) sts once, 2 sts once, 1 st 5 times. Continue until piece measures 43-48 (52-56) cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Back: = 74-78 (90-90) sts. Dec for arm hole as on front = 70-72 (84-84) sts.
Continue until piece measures 41-46 (50-54) cm. Cast off centre 22-24 (28-30) sts for neck. Dec each side of neck on every other row: 1 st twice. Continue until piece measures 43-48 (52-56) cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Sleeve: Pick up approx 70 to 80 sts around arm hole on circ needle size 2.5mm and work hem.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Button band: Pick up approx 66 to 78 sts along left front on circ needle size 2.5mm and work hem, but after 0.5cm make 6 button holes evenly spaced – 1 button hole= cast off 2 sts, cast on 2 sts on next round. Also make button holes after the fold (row of holes). Fold all hems to WS along fold and sew. Pick up approx 90 sts around neck on circ needle size 2.5mm and work hem. Inside leg: (on back): Pick up approx 50 sts on needle size 2.5mm and work 5 rows in moss st. Cast off.
Inside leg: (on front): Pick up sts as on back and work hem but after 0.5cm make 6 button holes evenly spaced (I button hole is worked as on button band). Also make button hole after the fold. Cast off and fold to WS and sew.

Socks:

Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months.

Length of foot: 10-11 (12-14) cm.

Materials: Drops Safran from Garnstudio
100% Egyptian cotton 50 g= 160m
50-50 (50-50) g col 017, white

Drops double pointed needles: 3mm.
Ribbon.

Knitting Tension: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3mm in stocking st = 10x10cm.

1 Ridge: *1 round reverse stocking st, 1 round stocking st*.

Sock: Cast on 30-35 (40-40) sts on double pointed needles size 3mm with white. Work 2 Ridges. Work M.2 until piece measures 7-8 (8-9) cm. Work 1 round in stocking st. Next round: *K2tog, yo*, 2 rounds in stocking st. Finish in stocking st. Heel: Work 3-4 (4-4) cm in stocking st back and forth on needle over centre back 18 sts. Decrease for heel: (1st row RS): 1st row: K10, K2tog back of loop, K1, turn. 2nd row: S1, P4, P2tog, P1, turn. 3rd row: S1, K5, K2tog back of loop, K1, turn. 4th row: S1, P6, P2tog, P1, turn. 5th row: S1, K7, K2tog back of loop, K1, turn. 6th row: S1, P8, P2tog, P1, turn. 7th row: K2tog, K8, K2tog back of loop = 10 sts left on needle.

Pick up 7-8 (9-9) sts each side of heel and put all sts on one needle = 36-43 (50-50) sts. Continue in stocking st and at the same time dec each side of the 12-17 (22-22) sts on top of foot on every row as follows: 1 st 3-4 (4-4) times = 30-35 (42-42) sts. Continue until foot measures 7-8 (9-11) cm (measured from start of heel dec). Put a marker or thread each side and dec for toes at beginning of every other row (4 dec in all) 1 st 6-7 (8-8) times = 6-7 (10-10) sts. Pull double thread through remaining sts and fasten.
Insert ribbon through holes.

Diagram

= k
= k2tog, yo
= right leg
= left leg


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 1-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (19)

Maïmouna 04.07.2020 - 14:32:

Ich bin beim vorder/Rückenteil. Dort heißt es dir große 6/9 Monate, man sollte ab der Knopfleiste, wo man beginnt hin und her zu stricken, noch 34 cm stricken. Der Overall wäre dann aber SEHR lang. Kann es sein, daß hier 34 cm ab dem Schritt genesen gemeint sind? Echt schönes Muster, aber die Erklärungen in der Anleitung sind dürftig. Wahrscheinlich, weil es zu den älteren gehört. Danke aber für das Muster.

Maïmouna 04.07.2020 - 12:39:

Ich bin beim vorder/Rückenteil. Dort heißt es dir große 6/9 Monate, man sollte ab der Knopfleiste, wo man beginnt hin und her zu stricken, noch 34 cm stricken. Der Overall wäre dann aber SEHR lang. Kann es sein, daß hier 34 cm ab dem Schritt genesen gemeint sind? Echt schönes Muster, aber die Erklärungen in der Anleitung sind dürftig. Wahrscheinlich, weil es zu den älteren gehört. Danke aber für das Muster.

Pernille Flyvbjerg Svold 14.01.2018 - 17:42:

Hej Jeg kan ikke finde mønsteret/diagrammet. Skal jeg betale for at få diagrammet tilsendt.? Venlig hilsen Pernille Svold

DROPS Design 17.01.2018 kl. 08:15:

Hei Pernille. Alle våre oppskrifter på nettet er gratis. På denne oppskriften vises ikke diagrammet på den danske siden, dette skal vi ordne med engang. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette. mvh Drops design

Catherine Hutton 10.07.2017 - 13:18:

The chart M1 shows all stitches are knit but I assumed from photo that the main body of garment is stocking stitch. I have tried all knit stitches but doesn't look right. Please clarify.

DROPS Design 10.07.2017 kl. 14:16:

Dear Mrs Hutton, M.1 is worked K from right side, ie in stocking st you will then work K from RS and P from WS (remember holes). Happy knitting!

BOUDEUX 19.04.2017 - 10:33:

Bonjour j'ai quelques difficultés à placer les jours malgré le diagramme. Pourriez vous me dire combien de maille sépare les jours entre eux pour la taille 6-9 mois .Merci

DROPS Design 19.04.2017 kl. 10:37:

Bonjour Mme Boudeux, au 5ème rang de M.1, vous aurez 10 m entre chaque (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté) - commencez les jambes par 2 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, etc... au 7ème rang de M.1, vous commencez par 1 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, et tricotez 10 m end entre chaque (2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté), et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Tanya 14.04.2017 - 09:10:

I am half way through knitting this really charming overall. unfortunately, it seems i will have to improvise quite a bit - there is no clear picture of neckline and the hem with buttonholes - perhaps you have some advice about how it should go? first neck then the hem with buttonholes? and do you have any advice / video for button holes on a double layered hem? the advice videos that are tagged are fairly basic, while this is not a basic garment...

Liga 06.07.2015 - 22:19:

I have a question regarding pattern chart - do arrows point the start of the pattern? For 6/9 month size I should knit 8 stiches, then knit2tog and yarn orver, then 11 knit stiches, knit2tog and yarn over, etc...it that correct?

DROPS Design 07.07.2015 kl. 10:25:

Dear Liga, arrows shows where to start diagram, ie in size 6/9 months, start both legs with 2nd st in diagram. Happy knitting!

Helle Hoby 27.06.2015 - 17:27:

Jeg er i tvivl om, hvordan diagrammet M1 skal læses. Hvad betyder alle pilene og henvisninger til størrelser og højre ben/venstre ben? Rykkes mønsteret i takt med udtagningerne? Og hvilken type udtagning anbefaler I til denne dragt? Jeg strikker størrelse 6/9 mdr

DROPS Design 31.07.2015 kl. 12:33:

Det er egentlig ikke så vigtig hvor du starter i diagrammet, bare du sørger for at du har 10 m glat immelem hver "2r sm, kast" hele vejen rundt. Når du tager ud kan du strikke 2 m i én maske. God fornøjelse!

Nadine 10.06.2015 - 15:37:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas ou alors il y a une erreur. Quelle est la bonne mesure ? On ce retrouve avec deux longueurs différentes de chaque côté. Merci Devant droit : Continuer jusqu'à 36-41 (45-49) cm de hauteur totale....... Devant gauche : Continuer jusqu'à 35-39 (43-56) cm de hauteur totale......

DROPS Design 10.06.2015 kl. 18:32:

Bonjour Nadine, votre question a été transférée à nos stylistes, merci d'avance pour votre patience.

ANDRIEU 01.05.2014 - 10:25:

Question : La reprise des mailles autour de l'encolure inclut-elle les mailles de la bordure de devant ? Si oui, il faut sans doute prévoir une boutonnière. (La photo et les explications ne sont pas très précises) Merci pour votre aide Sylvette

DROPS Design 02.05.2014 kl. 10:06:

Bonjour Mme Andrieu, les boutonnières se font le long du devant gauche, pas le long de la bordure tricotée pour le col. Bon tricot!

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