DROPS Baby / 1 / 1

Cuddle Bug by DROPS Design

Drops Aran pattern Set (jacket with optional hood and pants) in Safran.

Tags: cable, hood, jackets, pants, sets,
Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months

Materials: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
100% Egyptian cotton 50 g= 160m

Jacket with hood:
200-250 (300-350) g col 018, cream

Full Set:
400-400 (450-450) g col 018, cream.

DROPS circular needle: 2.5mm and 3mm.
DROPS double pointed needles: 2.5mm and 3mm or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
Cable needle.

DROPS buttons: 5 pcs for jacket + 2 pcs for pants.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 0.70 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 0.70 £ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting Tension: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3mm in stocking st = 10x10cm.

Knitting Tension: 26sts x 35 rows on needles size 3mm in double moss st. = 10x10cm.

Rib: *K1, P1*. Repeat from * - *.

Cable: See diagram – worked over 2 sts. K 2nd st but leave on left needle, K 1st st, then lift both sts over onto right needle.

Double moss st: *1st and 2nd row: K1, P1. 3rd and 4th row: K over P and P over k sts*. Repeat from * - *.

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 repeat). Pattern is seen from RS.


Jacket with optional hood:

Body: Jacket is worked back and forth on circ needle. Cast on 128-140(148-156) sts on circ needles size 2.5mm with cream. Work 2-2 (3-3) cm rib. Change to circ needle size 3mm and at the same time inc 11-16 (24-30) sts evenly on first row = 139-156 (172-186) sts. Work 1 st row as follows: M.1, M.2, M.1, 101-118 (134-148) sts in double moss st, M.1, M.3, M.1.
Remember to check your tension. Continue until piece measures 14-16 (19-20) cm. Next row: work 35-40 (42-45) sts across front, cast off 4-4 (6-6) sts for arm, work 61-68 (76-84) sts across back, cast off 4-4 (6-6) sts for armhole, work 35-40 (42-45) sts across front. Finish fronts and back separately.

Left front: = 35-40 (42-45) sts. Dec for armhole on every other row as follows: 1 st 2-2 (3-3) times = 33-38 (39-42) sts. Continue until piece measures 22-25 (29-31) cm. Dec for neck on every other row as follows: 12-14 (14-14) sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts once, 1 st twice. Continue until piece measures 26-29 (33-35) cm. Cast off remaining 14-17 (18-21) sts for shoulder.

Right front: Work as left front.

Back: = 61-68 (76-84) sts. Dec for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 1 st 2-2 (3-3) times = 57-64 (70-78) sts. Continue until piece measures 24-27 (31-33) cm. Cast off centre 25-26 (30-32) sts for neck.
Dec each side for neck on every other row as follows: 1 st twice.
Continue until piece measures 26-29 (33-35) cm. Cast off remaining 14-17 (18-21) sts for each shoulder.

Sleeves: Cast on 36-40 (44-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5mm with cream. Work 2-2(3-3) cm rib. Change to needles size 3mm, work double moss st and at the same time inc 4-6 (8-12) sts evenly on first round = 40-46 (52-56) sts. At the same time inc sts under sleeve each side of centre st as follows: 1 st 11-11 (10-11) times for 3months: every 4th round, for 6/9 months: every 5th round, for 12/18+24 months: every 6th round = 62-68 (72-78) sts. Continue until piece measures 16.5-20 (22-24) cm. Cast off centre 5 sts under sleeve and finish working back and forth on needle. Dec each side on every other row as follows: 5 sts 2-3 (3-3) times. Continue until piece measures 18-22 (24-26) cm. Cast off.

Assembly: Left button band: Pick up 80-90 sts on needle size 2.5mm with cream along left front and work 2cm in rib. Cast off. Right button band: Work as left band but after 1 cm make 4 button holes evenly spaced – 1 button hole = cast off 2 sts – cast on 2 sts on next row over cast off sts. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up 90-100 sts around neck opening with needles size 2.5mm with cream. Work 1.5cm in double moss st and at the same time make button hole on 2nd round. Cast off at this point if hood is not wanted. Hood: Change to needle size 3mm and inc 11 sts at beginning and end of row and 113-127 (127-137) overall evenly across row. Work 1st row as follows: 16-18 (18-18) sts in double moss st, 41-46 (46-51) sts in M.4, 40-45 (45-50) sts in M.5, 16-18 (18-18) sts in double moss st. Work 23-24 (25-25) cm. Cast off. Sew hood together in centre from RS. Make a pompom and sew to hood. Fold the moss st edge in half and fix at neck edge with stitch. Sew sleeves to body in edge st to avoid seams being too bulky. Sew in buttons.

Pants:

Size: 3 – 6/9 (12/18 -24) months

Materials: Drops Safran from Garnstudio
100% Egyptian cotton 50 g= 160m
200-200 (250-300) g col 018, cream
or use Camelia, 100% lambs wool, 50g =200m

Drops circular needle: 2.5mm and 3mm.
Drops buttons: 2 pcs.

Knitting Tension: 24sts x 32 rows on needles size 3mm in stocking st = 10x10cm.

Knitting Tension: 26sts x 35 rows on needles size 3mm in double moss st. = 10x10cm.

Double moss st: *1st and 2nd row: K1, P1. 3rd and 4th row: K over P and P over k sts*. Repeat from * - *.

Pants: Worked from waist down – optional sock. Cast on 140-150 (160-160) sts on circ needle size 2.5mm with cream. Work 5-5 (5-5) cm rib, but after 2 cm, make 2 buttonholes centre front with 24 sts between button holes – 1 button hole= cast off 2 sts, cast on 2sts on next row. Change to circ needle size 3mm and at the same time inc 17-17 (27-27) sts evenly on round= 157-167 (187-187) sts. Work 1st round as follows (start centre back): 79-84 (94-94) sts in M.4, 78-83 (93-93) sts in M.5. Remember to check your tension.
Continue until piece measures 19-21 (23-24) cm. Inc centre front and centre back for gusset, between M.4 and M.5 each side of centre st on every other round as follows: 1 st 7 times = 185-195 (215-215) sts. Work now measures approx 24-26 (28-29) cm. Dec the 14 sts previously inc centre front and back = 157-167 (187-187) sts. Divide work for legs.

Right leg = 79-84 (94-94) sts. Continue in pattern until piece measures 39-43 (48-53) cm. Dec evenly on round until 52-52 (60-60) sts. Work 3 cm rib (for version without sock, work 10 cm rib and then cast off). Put back 40-40 (44-44) sts on a thread. Work 5-6 (7-9) cm double moss st over the remaining 12-12 (16-16) sts centre front, dec 4-4 (6-6) sts evenly on last round = 8-8 (10-10) sts. Pick up the 40-40 (44-44) sts from thread, 14-16 (18-24) sts each side of the moss st and 8-8 (10-10) sts from front= 76-80 (90-102) sts. Work 3 cm rib. Cast off all sts except the front 10-10 (12-12) sts – continue to work 10-11 (12-14) cm stocking st across these for sole. Cast off. (work sole twice as long and make a double sole if wanted).

Left leg: Work as left leg.

Assembly: Braces: Make 2. Cast on 14 sts on needle size 2.5mm and work 40 cm in rib. Cast off. Sew braces to centre back with 7 cm space between.
Sew gusset seam. Sew side seam on sole.

Diagram

= K
= P
= cable (see description)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 1-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Jacqueline De Haan 29.06.2020 - 20:03:

Klopt het wel dat je de middelste 5 steken moet afkanten bij de mouw, want ik heb 78 steken op mijn naald en dan kun je alleen een even aantal steken in het midden afkanten.

Jacqueline De Haan 27.06.2020 - 20:12:

Bij de mouw staat dat je bij een hoogte van 24 cm de middelste 5 steken moet afkanten. Maar hoe kun je de middelste 5 steken afkanten bij een even aantal steken?

DROPS Design 30.06.2020 kl. 13:46:

Dag Jacqueline,

Dan komt het inderdaad niet precies in het midden. Je mag ook 4 of 6 steken doen, afhankelijk van de maat die je breit, zodat hetzelfde aantal steken wordt afgekant als bij het armsgat voor de panden.

Hetty 24.07.2018 - 17:54:

Bij het breien van de mouw (maat 3 maanden) wordt er gesproken van 36 steken voor het boordje, meerderen van 4 steken in de 1e nld. daarna (dubbele gerstekorrel), verder nog 11x1 st meerderen in elke 4e nld. Totaal is dan 51 steken, maar er wordt verderop gesproken van 62 steken. Wat is nu juist?

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 11:20:

Dag Hetty, Je begint met 36 steken. Na de boord meerder je 4 steken, dus dan heb je 40 steken. Daarna meerder je 11 keer 1 steek aan beide kanten (= 22 st) midden onder de mouw, waardoor je op een totaal van 62 steken komt.

Erik 12.06.2018 - 12:38:

Hola, me encanta este patrón, pero veo que solo esta en agujas circulares, ¿cambia mucho el mismo para dos agujas?, si es así ¿es posible conseguirlo?, gracias

DROPS Design 23.06.2018 kl. 19:27:

Hola Erik. Los patrones para agujas circulares se pueden adaptar para agujas rectas. En este caso, la prenda se trabaja por partes y se cose después; no hay que olvidar que en este caso hay que añadir puntos de orillo para las costuras a cada lado de la prenda.

Marie Louise D. í Stórustovu 25.11.2017 - 18:29:

Hej, Jeg kan ikke se diagrammerne.

DROPS Design 28.11.2017 kl. 14:41:

Hei Marie Louise. Her manglet den danske diagramteksten. Det er nå lagt til og du kan finne diagrammene helt nederst. God Fornøyelse!

Maiken 09.10.2016 - 15:48:

Hei Holder på med venstre forstykket og skal felle 12 masker til skulder, men mønsteret blir jo ødelagt når det skal felles så mange masker. Eller e det bare jeg som ikke skjønner hvordan det skal gjøres?

DROPS Design 10.10.2016 kl. 15:53:

Hei Maiken. Du feller til hals, dvs, midt for og ikke paa skuldersiden.

Janneke 01.05.2016 - 10:38:

Wanneer het telpatroon alle naalden laat zien dan ga je dus aan de teruggaande kant recht boven recht breien en krijg je een ribbel? Volgens mij zie ik op de afbeelding toch av boven r?

DROPS Design 02.05.2016 kl. 11:03:

Hoi Janneke. Van de goede kant moeten je de witte hokjes recht en de stippeltjes av zijn. Dus de verkeerde kant zijn de witte hokjes av en de stippeltjes r.

LeeAnn 29.09.2015 - 23:59:

I am working on the pants I am at the point where I need to start the gusset where am I starting this ? Is it the center sts of the front and back please explain I don't feel the directions are clear for this

DROPS Design 30.09.2015 kl. 09:40:

Dear LeeAnn, inc are done on mid back and mid front, each side of the middle st, you are working 79-94 sts in M4 and 7, work 1st st on round, inc 1 st, continue in M4 then inc 1 st, work 1 st (mid front), inc 1 st, continue in M5 to the end of round, inc 1 st = 4 sts inc either side of mid st on mid back and mid front. Happy knitting!

LeeAnn 22.09.2015 - 14:41:

I am working on this pattern and I do not understand the directions after casting off the center 5 sts under sleeve, pattern says to work back and forth on needle while dec each side the number if sts to dec for size I am making.. How am I working back and forth on DPN's and where am I doing the Decreases?

DROPS Design 22.09.2015 kl. 15:57:

Dear LeeAnn, when the mid 5 sts under sleeve are cast off, continue in rows (= back and forth) on dpn or on a circular needle while casting off for sleeve cap sts at the beg on every row (both from RS and from WS). Happy knitting!

Nam 04.03.2014 - 17:56:

Please explain "cast off center 5 stitches on sleeve."..? Then 1 side every other row makes sense,but How to proceed with center stitches gone..have never seen sleeve this shape

DROPS Design 04.03.2014 kl. 19:14:

Hi Nam, it's the 5 sts under arm i.e in armhole, that you cast off. From here on you work rem sleeve sts back and forth on needle. Hope it helps.

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