DROPS Baby / 4 / 14

Circus Smiles by DROPS Design

DROPS jumpsuit with teddy motif, hat and socks in “BabyMerino”.

Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)

Materials: DROPS Baby Merino, from Garnstudio
The whole set:
150-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 25, lavender
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 10, light turquoise
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 16, red
50-100-100 (100-100) g colour no 04, yellow
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 13, navy blue

Jumpsuit only:
100-100-100 (150-150) g colour no 16, red
100-100-100 (150-150) g colour no 10, light turquoise
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 25, lavender
50-100-100 (100-100) g colour no 04, yellow
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 13, navy blue

DROPS pointed, circular and double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS button, 5 pcs

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JUMPSUIT:
Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, on circular needle: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: See diagram. Diagram is seen from RS and knitted in stocking st.

Left leg: Cast on 80-88-88 (96-96) sts on circular needle size 2 mm with yellow and knit 4 cm Rib. Change to needle size 2.5 mm and knit 2 rounds in red, 2 rounds in lavender and continue in red, at the same time inc on the inside of leg on every 2-3-3 (4-5) cm: 2 sts 4 times = 88-96-96 (104-104) sts. Remember the knitting tension.
When piece measures 17-18-20 (25-28) cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106) sts. When piece measures 18-20-23 (27-30) cm cast off 5-7-3 (5-5) sts each side = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: knit as left leg, but knit Rib in lavender , then 2 rounds light turquoise, 2 rounds yellow and continue in green.

Body piece:
Put left and right leg in on the same circular needle = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Continue in light turquoise over light turquoise leg and red over red leg. Insert a MT mid back and continue back and forth on needle from mid front. Inc 1 st each side mid front for seam = 162-170-186 (194-194) sts. Now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts (MT) on every other row: 1 st 8 times, at the same time dec each side towards mid front on every other row 1 st 8 times. Dec as follows before MT: K2 tog, after MT: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso = 162-170-186 (194-194) sts. When piece measures 25-26-28 (33-36) cm cast off 5 sts each side towards mid front for split = 152-160-176 (184-184) sts.
When piece measures 42-46-51 (56-59) cm continue as follows: P 1 row, K 1 row with lavender over light turquoise and yellow over red, P 1 row with lavender over lavender and yellow over yellow and then continue in stocking st in lavender and yellow instead of light turquoise and red.
After 1-1-2 (2-3) cm in the new colours – piece measures 43-47-53 (58-62) cm - knit next row as follows: 3 sts lavender, M.1, 48-52-60 (64-64) sts lavender, 48-52-60 (64-64) sts yellow, M.2, 3 sts yellow. Continue in pattern like this.
After the pattern complete piece in main colour.
At the same time when piece measures 47-51-56 (61-64) cm divide the piece as follows: 35-37-41 (43-43) sts = front piece, cast off 2 sts for armhole, 78-82-90 (94-94) sts = back piece, cast off 2 sts for armhole, 35-37-41 (43-43) sts = front piece.
Now complete each piece separately.

Left front piece: = 35-37-41 (43-43) sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row: 2 sts 2-1-1 (0-0) times = 31-35-39 (43-43) sts.
When piece measures 53-58-64 (69-75) cm, dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 5-6-7 (7-10) sts 1 time, 2 sts 2-2-2 (3-3) times. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 57-62-68 (74-80) cm.

Right front piece: As left front piece, but mirrored.

Back piece: = 78-82-90 (94-94) sts. Dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 70-78-86 (94-94) sts. When piece measures 55-60-66 (72-78) cm cast off the middle 20-22-24 (28-34) sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Cast off when piece measures 57-62-68 (74-80) cm.

Left sleeve: Knitted in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 44-46-50 (52-52) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with lavender and knit 4 cm Rib.
Change to needle size 2.5 mm and continue in stocking as follows: 2 rounds yellow, 2 rounds lavender and then continue in yellow, at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 4-6-6 (8-16) times as follows:
Size 3 + 6/9 months + 2 years: on every 6th and 7th round alternately
Size 12/18 months: on every 8th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 4th round
= 52-58-62 (68-84) sts.
When piece measures 13-17-19 (21-26) cm cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve and complete piece back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 5 sts 2 times, cast off. Sleeve measures approx 15-19-21 (23-28) cm.

Right sleeve: As left sleeve but knit Rib in yellow, then 2 rounds lavender,2 rounds yellow and continue in lavender.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seam. Pick up approx 86-96-108 (108-116) sts along left front piece on needle size 2 mm with light turquoise, P 1 row, knit 2,5 cm Rib, P 1 row and cast off.
Repeat along right front edge, but after 1 cm, make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts on return row. Fasten front edges at bottom of split.
Pick up approx 90-100 sts round neck on needle size 2 mm with light turquoise, P 1 row, 2 cm in Rib, cast off. Sew tog split on inside of legs and sew tog the opening between legs from mid front to mid back. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

HAT:

Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Head circumference: 39-41-43 (46-46) cm.

DROPS pointed needles size 2 mm

Knitting tension: 28 sts x 38 rows on needles size 2 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st: Knit all rows

Knitted back and forth on pointed needles in 4 colours. Cast on 110-118-122 (130-130) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2 mm with light turquoise and knit 4 rows garter st. Continue in stocking st as follows: 28-30-31 (33-33) sts red (incl 1 edge st), 27-29-30 (32-32) sts light turquoise, 27-29-30 (32-32) sts lavender, 28-30-31 (33-33) sts yellow (incl 1 edge st).
When piece measures 9-10-10 (10.5-11.5) cm dec 1 st on the inside of both edge sts and on both sides of each colour change by K tog the first 2 and the last 2 sts of each colour (= 8 dec per row).
Repeat the dec on every and every other row alternately until piece measures 14-15-15 (16-17) cm. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Sew tog the red and yellow sections. Make a small tassel with all 4 colours and attach to top of hat.

SOCKS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 9/12 months (2 -3/4 years)
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm.

DROPS pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on needle size 2 mm with light turquoise and knit 6-7-7 (8-8) cm Rib back and forth on needle. Knit 1 row stocking st and change to needle size 2.5 mm, at the same time dec 10-14-8 (12-8) sts = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts. Knit next row as follows from RS: *K2 tog, 1 yo*, repeat from *-*. Knit 1 row stocking st. Put 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a thread each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm garter st on the middle 12-12-14 (18-18) sts. Put sts from threads back on needle and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts on each side of the middle piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts. Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm garter st on all sts, at the same time after 2-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm dec on every other row as follows: 1 st at the beg and 1 st at the end of row and K2 tog on both sides of the middle 2 sts for another 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Cast off and sew seam under foot and along the Rib. Crochet a chain on crochet hook size 2.5 mm, approx 30-35 cm long, and thread through eyelet row.

Diagram

= lavender
= red
= light turquoise
= yellow
= navy blue



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 4-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Heidi 26.02.2019 - 09:21:

Forstår ikke forklaringen til hvordan det skal økes og felles i bolen. Vennligst hilsen Heidi Bentzen

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 15:01:

Hei Heidi. Du skal øke masker bak, og samtidig felle masker midt foran, dette gjør du på hver 2. pinne. Du øker 1 maske på hver side av de 2 midterste maskene bak (Altså 2 masker økt hver gang), og dette gjør du 8 ganger (altså over 16 omganger. = 16 masker økt). Samtidig feller du 1 maske i hver side mot midt foran, innenfor 1 kantmaske. Du feller 8 ganger totalt (= 16 masker felt). God fornøyelse

Heidi Bentzen 18.02.2019 - 15:13:

Har strikket det ene beinet til Circus smiles. Forstår ikke hvordan jeg lager splitt.

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 13:28:

Hei Heidi. Det betyr rett og slett at du slutter å strikke rundt men går over til å strikke frem og tilbake slik at du får en split i arbeidet. Altså når arbeidet måler 17-18-20 (25-28) cm deles arbeidet på innsiden av benet: strikk til innsiden av benet, snu og strikk den andre veien til du er på innsiden av benet igjen (du strikker nå fra vrangen), snu og strikk tilbake igjen fra retten osv. Husk å øke 1 kantmaske i hver side til å sy sammen arbeidet i etterpå. God fornøyelse

Mette Thomsen 29.01.2019 - 14:14:

Jeg forstår ikke hvad det er jeg skal når de 2 ben samles, skal der tages ind eller ud midt på rygge og foran?

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 08:18:

Hei Mette. Når bena settes inn på samme pinne setter du et merke midt bak og strikker frem og tilbake over alle maskene, med åpning midt foran. Du øker i tillegg 1 kantmaske i hver side mot åpningen midt foran. Videre skal det felles på innsiden av disse kantmaskene, samtidig som det økes på hver side av merket du satte midt bak. God fonrøyelse

FOIRATIER 12.09.2018 - 21:51:

Bonsoir. Pour la combinaison après avoir fait les 8 augmentations et les 8 diminutions on a 162 mailles. Ensuite il faut diminuer d’1 maille de part et d’autre du marqueur ce qui nous donne 160 mailles. Ensuite, à 25 cm il faut réaliser 5 diminutions de chaque côté des devants soit 10 mailles de moins. Le texte dit qu’il reste à ce moment-là 152 mailles mais s’il reste 160 mailles moins dix cela donne 150 mailles et non 152, sauf si je fais une erreur de calcul.

DROPS Design 13.09.2018 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Mme Foiratier, la phrase sur les diminutions explique juste comment diminuer ces mailles sur le dos et les devants, je l'ai décalée avant le nombre total de mailles pour qu'elle ne crée pas un problème de compréhension. Bon tricot!

Marjo Leppänen 22.01.2014 - 06:34:

Mikähän kokoinen pyöröpuikko tulee kysymykseen kun noin ohuella langalla vain 80 silmukkaa?

DROPS Design 23.01.2014 kl. 14:24:

Lahkeet voidaan neuloa 40 cm:n pituisella pyöröpuikolla.

Lotte Patheier 10.07.2013 - 14:55:

Er det mig der ikke kan se ? Skal mønsterets strikkes ind i eller broderes på bagefter, kan ikke se det i opskriften

DROPS Design 11.07.2013 kl. 13:22:

Hej Lotte. Mönstret strikkes ind i dragten. Se under ryg- og forstykke, 3e sidste linie: 3 m lavendel, M.1, 48-52-60 (64-64) m lavendel, 48-52-60 (64-64) m gul, M.2, 3 m gul. M.1 og M.2 er mönstrene med bamserne

Bente Bigum 22.07.2007 - 14:32:

Jeg kan ikke finde diagrammet til bamsen og aben på opskrift 4 - 14

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