DROPS / 82 / 6

Catch of the Day by DROPS Design

DROPS Crocheted Top and Cardigan in Muskat

Tags: lace, tops,

TOP:

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-94-102-112 cm
[29-7/8" - 33" - 37" - 40-1/8" - 44"]
Hem: 66-76-84-94-102 cm
[26" - 29-7/8" - 33" - 37" - 40-1/8"]
The measurements seem a little small, but the garment will be very stretchy, and will fit approx. 5 to 8 cm [2" to 3-1/8"] larger when worn.

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
200-200-250-250-300 gr nr 18, white

DROPS 4.5 mm [US G] crochet hook or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
TOP:

Crochet gauge: 4.5 ch-loops x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Crochet tips for binding off: See diagrams.

Front: Ch 91-103-115-127-139. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 sc in 7th ch from hook, * ch 5, skip over 5 ch, 1 sc in the next ch *, repeat from * - * = 15-17-19-21-23 ch-loops, turn the work. Crochet the 2nd row as follows: ch 6, 1 sc in first ch-loop , * ch 5, 1 sc in the next ch-loop *, repeat from * - * across row and turn the work. Repeat 2nd row until the piece measures 15 cm. Now inc 1 loop at each side by crochet 1 extra ch-loop in the next to last ch-loop at each side = 17-19-21-23-25 ch-loops.
Armhole: When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm bind off for armhole as follows:
Size S + M: Crochet until last ch-loop, turn the work, sl st to center of 1st ch-loop, continue with ch-loops and repeat bind off at the other side – see diagr 1B.
Size L + XL: Follow bind off instructions for size S + M 1 time, turn the piece and crochet back to last ch-loop, turn the work, continue with ch-loops and repeat bind off at the other side – see diagr. 1C.
Size XXL: Follow bind off for size S + M: 2 times– see diagr 1D.
You have now bound off 2-2-3-3-4 ch-loops at each side = 13-15-15-17-17 ch-loops remain on row. Crochet as before until the piece measures 36-38-40-42-44 cm, then bind off for the neck as follows: 4 ch-loops, turn the work, sl st to center of first ch-loop and continue with ch-loops = 3 ch-loops on shoulder. Continue as before until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm. Repeat at the other side of neck.

Back: Crochet the same as the front. Bind off for armholes as on front. When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm bind off all sts for the neck by crocheting 2 rows over only 3 ch-loops each shoulder (do not crochet over the center 7-9-9-11-11 ch-loops). The piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58 cm, cut yarn.

Assembly: Crochet shoulders together as follows: 1 sl st in first ch-loop on back, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-loop on front, ch 3, 1 sc in the next ch-loop on back, and so on.
Crochet sides together in the same manner.
Neckband and armhole: Crochet 1 row of hdc around the neck and both armholes as follows: * 1 hdc in sc, 2 hdc in ch-loop *, repeat from * - * and finish with 1 sl st in first hdc on row.





CARDIGAN:

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-94-102-112-120 cm
[33" - 37" - 40-1/8" - 44" - 47.25"]
Hem: 76-84-94-102-112 cm
[29-7/8" - 33" - 37" - 40-1/8" - 44"]

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450 gr nr 18, white

DROPS 4.5 mm [US G] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

5 DROPS Silver buttons, nr 534

Crochet gauge: 4.5 ch-loops x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

Crochet tips for binding off: See the diagrams.

Back: Ch 103-115-127-139-151. Crochet the first row as follows: 1 sc in 7th ch from hook, * ch 5, skip over 5 ch, 1 sc in the next ch *, repeat from * - * = 17-19-21-23-25 ch-loops, turn the work. Crochet the next row as follows: ch 6, 1 sc in first ch-loop, * ch 5, 1 sc in the next ch-loop *, repeat from * - * across the row and turn the work.
Repeat second row until the piece measures 15 cm, then inc 1 loop at each side by crocheting 1 extra ch-loop in the next to last loop at each side = 19-21-23-25-27 ch-loops.
Armholes: When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34 cm bind off for armholes as follows:
Size S: Crochet to last ch-loop, turn the work, continue with ch-loops and repeat bind off at the other side – see diagr 1A.
Size M + L: Crochet until last ch-loop, turn the work, sl st to center of 1st ch-loop, continue with ch-loops and repeat bind off at the other side – see diagr 1B.
Size XL: Follow bind off for size M + L: 1 time and then bind off for size S: 1 time – see diagr 1C.
Size XXL: Follow bind off for size M + L: 2 times– see diagr 1D.
You have now bound off 1-2-2-3-4 ch-loops at each side = 17-17-19-19-19 ch-loops remain on row. Continue as before until the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54 cm, then bind off for the neck by crocheting 2 rows over only 4-4-5-5-5 ch-loops for each shoulder (do not crochet over the center 9 ch-loops). The piece measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56 cm, cut yarn.

Right front: Ch 55-61-67-73-79, then crochet as on back = 9-10-11-12-13 ch-loops. When the piece measures 15 cm inc 1 ch-loop at the side as on back = 10-11-12-13-14 ch-loops.
When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34 cm bind off for armhole at side as on back = 9-9-10-10-10 ch-loops.
When the piece measures 34-36-38-40-42 cm bind off for the neck as follows: Follow armhole bind off on diagr 1D 1 time and diagr 1A 1 time. You have now bound off 5 loops and 4-4-5-5-5 loops remain on shoulder.
Continue until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm, cut yarn.

Left front: Crochet the same as the right, reversing shaping.

Sleeve: Ch 67-73-73-79-85, then crochet as on Body = 11-12-12-13-14 ch-loops. When the piece measures 6 cm inc by crocheting 1 extra ch-loop in the next to outermost loop at one side, then crochet 5 rows and inc on the other side. Repeat inc at each side 1 time with 5 rows between each inc = 15-16-16-17-18 ch-loops on row.
Continue until the piece measures 34-33-31-31-30 cm. Now bind off for sleeve cap by crocheting 6-8-10-10-12 rows with 1 ch-loop less at the end of every row, cut yarn. The piece measures approx. 40-41-41-41-42 cm.

Assembly: Crochet together the shoulders as follows: 1 sl st in first ch-loop on back, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch-loop on front, * ch 3, 1 sc in the next ch-loop on back, ch 3, 1 sc in the next ch-loop on front *, repeat * - *.
Crochet the sleeve and side seams in the same manner. Then crochet in the sleeves in the same manner.
Neckband: Crochet 2 rows sc around the neck – crochet approx. 3 sc in each ch-loop – be sure that the edge is neither too tight nor too loose.
Left button band: Crochet 4 rows sc over all sts along left front (incl. over neckband) – crochet approx. 3 sc in each ch-loop = approx. 102-126 sc, turn each row with ch 1.
Right button band: Crochet the same as the left, but after the 2nd row make 5 buttonhole evenly spaced along buttonband. The bottom buttonhole should be approx. 10 cm from lower edge and the top one 2 sts from top edge.1 buttonhole = ch 2, skip over 2 sc, 1 sc in the next st. On the next row 2 sc in the ch 2 from previous row. Sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch 1
= 1 sc in ch-loop
= 1 sl st




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 82-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (72)

Giusta 03.09.2019 - 17:24:

Molto bello e spiegazioni facili da seguire

Deborah 19.08.2019 - 03:45:

I do not understand the diagram for the neck bind off st all. Please help

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 11:30:

Dear Deborah, you will work diagram 1.D one time in height and then 1.A one time in height on the stitches towards neck - on right front piece, work the last 6 chain spaces on shoulder as shown in 1.D starting reading diagram with first row from WS (= left towards the right) and on left front piece you will work 1.D with first row from RS (= right towards front). Happy crocheting!

Deanna 05.08.2019 - 00:51:

Oh yes it helped me a lot to have those stitch markers in the front half of the tank top I’d just lay backside on that and know where to increase or decrease without having to measure not knowing how much I stretched out the front I recommend doing stitch markers

Deanna 04.08.2019 - 21:31:

I think I’ve figured it out when I’m binding off the neck I read the cardigan instructions they helped I think I would cut yarn after getting the desired length then cut yarn and attach to the opposite soo and do the same it might not be what you did but I think it’ll work

Deanna 04.08.2019 - 20:51:

I don’t know if this will be helpful or not I’m working this top now I’m placing stitch markers on the front you work first at the places you increase and decrease just in case I stretch the project differently for the back piece I can just lay it against the front and see where it’s been increased easily and that the pieces are stretched the same just what I’m doing maybe it’ll help me and maybe others I’ll let you know when I get to the back piece increase

Deanna 04.08.2019 - 20:38:

I don’t understand thrust the tank top shoulder I know I’m going down to 3 chain 5 spaces am I to do one side and then cut yarn to do the other shoulder since the back piece begins I’d be cutting my yarn for it or am I slip stitching across in those stitches until I get to the last four on the other side?

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 10:17:

Dear Deanna, each shoulder is worked separately after neck, ie when 3 chain-spaces are left for shoulder, continue over these chain spaces as before until finished length, then cut the yarn and work over the 3 chain-spaces on the other side for the 2nd shoulder. Happy crocheting!

Karen 12.06.2019 - 16:40:

Could locate this yarn in your store., can you please advise what ply it is and is crochet cotton compatible?

DROPS Design 13.06.2019 kl. 08:53:

Dear Karen, you will find here all stores in or shipping to Canada - and more informations about the yarn there. Happy crocheting!

Laura Weer 01.06.2019 - 16:39:

Toch nog wat onduidelijkheid bij de top: als je de 1e schouder aan de voorkant heb gedaan,hecht je dan af, of laat je de draad hangen? Voor het achterpand staat: " Kant af voor de hals als volgt: Haak 2 nld over de eerste 3 l-boogjes op elke schouder". Maar welke steek, vasten?

Laura 31.05.2019 - 09:53:

Ik ben er al uit! (vorige vraag over armsgaten)

Laura 28.05.2019 - 15:59:

Sorry ben ik weer...Ik ben nu toe aan de armsgaten van de top. Het afkanten van maat S en M snap ik wel…alleen niet voor maat L-XL: “Maat L + XL: Kant af als in Maat S + M x 1”. Ook mbv tekening 1C begrijp ik niet wat er met X 1 wordt bedoeld. Moet ik ipv 1 boogje 2 boogjes afkanten? Dus als ik nog 2 boogjes op de naald heb, dán al beginnen met afkanten? Of moet ik, als ik nog 1 boogje op de naald heb, keren en dan bij twee boogjes met HV haken?

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