DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.30 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Buttons
Smoked No. 623

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 34.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Winter Poem Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down in stocking stitch with round yoke, rolling edge and i-cord. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 252-13

#winterpoemcardigan

DROPS design: Pattern fa-557
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 602, silver fox
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 38, chalk

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 623: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
18 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality needle size 4.5 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality needle size 3 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (when working back and forth):
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

BAND WITH I-CORD:
BEGINNING OF ROW:
Work band as follows: Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1 and work 5 stitches in garter stitch.
END OF ROW:
Work band as follows: Work until 7 stitches remain on row, work 5 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
Work the same way both from right side and wrong side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 5 stitches remain on row as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work band as before and knit yarn over to make a buttonhole.
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after neck edge has been worked. Then decrease the next 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes approx. 10½-11-9½-9½-10-10 cm apart. Place bottom buttonhole in the transition between stocking stitch and rib.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (= 2 stitches increased) and A.2 (= 1 stitch increased).
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 121 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 14 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 29) = 3.7. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch (do not increase over bands). On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows:
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down.
When yoke is done, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work body downwards back and forth on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle.
If 0 is given for the chosen size, it means that you skip the information until next information.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 111-115-121-125-131-137 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand DROPS Fabel and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Switch to circular needle size 3 mm (cast on on a larger needle to get an elastic cast on edge) and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= wrong side): 7 stitches BAND WITH I-CORD - read explanation above, purl until 7 stitches remain, work 7 stitches band with i-cord.
ROW 2 (= right side): 7 stitches band as before, knit until 7 stitches remain, work 7 stitches band as before.
ROW 3 (= wrong side): 7 stitches band as before, purl until 7 stitches remain, work 7 stitches band as before.
ROW 4 (= right side): 7 stitches band as before, knit until 7 stitches remain, work 7 stitches band as before.
ROW 5 (= wrong side): 7 stitches band, work rib (= purl 1/knit 1), work from **-* until 8 stitches remain, purl 1 and 7 stitches band.
ROW 6 (= right side): 7 stitches band, work (knit 1/purl 1), until 8 stitches remain, knit 1 and 7 stitches band.
ROW 7 (= wrong side): 7 stitches band, work rib (= purl 1/knit 1), work from **-* until 8 stitches remain, purl 1 and 7 stitches band.
AFTER 7TH ROW:
Then work in stocking stitch and band as before until neck edge measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm measured after rib - finish with a row from wrong side.
Insert a maker on the inside of band in one side of piece, measure piece from this marker.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work first row from the right side and from mid front as follows:
Work band as before, work 97-101-107-111-117-123 stitches in stocking stitch while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 24-25-29-30-34-38 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP, work band as before and remember BUTTONHOLES – read explanation above = 135-140-150-155-165-175 stitches on needle.
Then work in stocking stitch and band. Remember to follow the knitting tension!
When yoke measures 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm from marker, increase stitches by working PATTERN – read explanation above and work as follows:
Work band as before, * 2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1, 1 stitch in stocking stitch *, work from *-* 24-25-27-28-30-32 times in total, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and band as before = 183-190-204-211-225-239 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and band until yoke measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm from marker.
Work next row as follows from right side: Work band as before, * 3 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1, 2 stitches in stocking stitch *, work from *-* 24-25-27-28-30-32 times in total, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and band as before = 231-240-258-267-285-303 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and band until yoke measures 12-13-13-15-15-16 cm from marker.

FIND YOUR SIZE:
Then work pattern and increase differently in the different sizes, work according to your size below.

SIZE S, M and L:
Work next row as follows from right side: Work band as before, * 4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2, 3 stitches in stocking stitch *, work from *-* 24-25-27 times in total, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and band as before = 255-265-285 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and band until yoke measures 16-18-18 cm from marker.
Work next row as follows from right side: Work band as before, * 4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2, 4 stitches in stocking stitch *, work from *-* 24-25-27 times in total, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and band as before = 279-290-312 stitches. Then work from ALLE SIZES.

SIZE XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work next row as follows from right side: Work band as before, * 4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1, 3 stitches in stocking stitch *, work from *-* 28-30-32 times in total, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and band as before = 323-345-367 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and band until yoke measures 20-20-22 cm from marker.
Work next row as follows from right side: Work band as before, * 4 stitches in stocking stitch, A.2, 5 stitches in stocking stitch *, work from *-* 28-30-32 times in total, work 1 stitch in stocking stitch and band as before = 351-375-399 stitches. Then work from ALLE SIZES.

ALL SIZES:
= 279-290-312-351-375-399 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and bands.
When yoke measures 18-20-20-22-22-24 cm from marker increase 0-9-7-0-0-0 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over band) = 279-299-319-351-375-399 stitches. When yoke measures 21-23-24-25-26-28 cm from marker divide piece for body and sleeves.

DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
AT THE SAME TIME as next row is worked divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 48-51-54-58-63-68 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 50-54-58-66-68-70 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (= in the side mid under sleeve), work 83-89-95-103-113-123 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), slip the next 50-54-58-66-68-70 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (= in the side mid under sleeve) and work the last 48-51-54-58-63-68 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 195-207-223-239-263-283 stitches. Work in stocking stitch and band as before until piece measures 43-45-47-48-49-51 cm from marker mid front.
On next row from right side begin rib while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 30-34-34-40-40-46 stitches evenly on row (do not increase over bands) = 225-241-257-279-303-329 stitches, work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm, work band as before, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1 - remember increase) until 8 stitches remain, knit 1 and band as before.
When rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm cast off all stitches with Italian cast off or cast off somewhat loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Jacket measures 49-51-53-55-56-58 cm from marker mid front and approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the top of shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Slip 50-54-58-66-68-70 sleeve stitches from one thread on to circular needle size 4.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 58-62-68-76-80-82 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under sleeve - round begins at the marker thread.
Work in stocking stitch in the round on needle - AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3-3-3-2-2-2 cm from division, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 3-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm 4-5-7-10-11-11 times in total = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 44-43-42-42-42-40 cm from division.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work 3 rounds rib (= knit 1/purl 1). Then work 3 rounds in stocking stitch. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and loosely cast off.
Sleeve measures approx. 46-45-44-44-44-42 cm from division.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= knit 2 stitches together, but do not drop stitches off left needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 1 in back loop of each of the 2 stitches on left needle, now drop the stitches off left needle = 2 stitches have been increased to 4 stitches (purl yarn over twisted on next row to avoid holes)
	= knit 2 stitches together, but do not drop stitches off left needle, make 1 yarn over, knit the same 2 stitches together 1 more time but through back loop of stitches, now drop the stitches off left needle = 2 stitches have been increased to 3 stitches (purl yarn over twisted on next row to avoid holes)

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #winterpoemcardigan or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (2)

Ella wrote:

Jag får inte fram något stickdiagram. Enbart en överblick över koftan. Eller ör det diagrammet?

09.11.2024 - 17:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ella. Precis över måttskissen (överblicken) på koftan så finns 2 små diagram. Mvh DROPS Design

11.11.2024 - 08:02

Marianne De Jonge wrote:

Bij het vest winter poem staat 21 steken, bij de winter poem trui 18. Ik denk dat 21 fout is, dit aantal gaat over naald 3, niet over 4,5 waarin het vest, net als de trui, gebreid wordt. Verwarrend...

09.11.2024 - 16:10

DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide	2.30 £ /50g	Order
DROPS Fabel print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide	2.40 £ /50g	Order
DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide	2.60 £ /50g	Order

Winter Poem Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down in stocking stitch with round yoke, rolling edge and i-cord. Size: S - XXXL

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 252-13

Comments / Questions (2)

Winter Poem Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down in stocking stitch with round yoke, rolling edge and i-cord. Size: S - XXXL

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?

@dropsdesign on Instagram

	DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.30 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Fabel print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.40 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 2.60 £ /50g Order