DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.10£.

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Snow Flake Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Merino Extra Fine and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked sideways with cables, lace pattern, double neck and split in sides. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 243-31
DROPS Design: Pattern me-272
Yarn group B + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
550-600-650-700-800-850 g colour 39, ice blue
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-175-175-200-225 g colour 07, light sky blue

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 630: 6-6-7-7-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Classic Textures cable double neck lace relief round neck sewn in sleeves sideways

UK
Ireland

DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 66.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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EDGE STITCH:
1 or 2 edge stitches are worked at the beginning and end of each row, as described in the text. These edge stitches are knitted from both the right and wrong side (garter stitch).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
A.X and A.Y show the increases for the cables.

PROVISIONAL CAST-ON:
By casting on provisionally, you get open stitches which sit on an auxiliary thread/ needle, instead of a finished cast-on edge. When the bands are worked, the auxiliary thread/needle is pulled out and the stitches are placed on the needle.
Start by forming a loop with 1 strand DROPS Merino Extra Fine and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk held together (2 strands). Place this loop on the needle you will cast on with, then hold the auxiliary thread/needle with your thumb and hold the strands of Merino Extra Fine + Kid-Silk with your index finger. Cast on as normal so that the stitches lie around the auxiliary thread/needle. Leave the auxiliary thread/needle in the work and work onwards. The auxiliary thread/needle is removed later, and the stitches placed on the working needles for the band. See the video for Provisional Cast-on at the bottom of the pattern or search under Help and Tips on our website.

ITALIAN CAST-OFF:
Cast off by sewing Italian cast-off to give an elastic edge. The strand-ends that are used for this must be a least 4 times longer than the piece which is to be cast off.

Start by “locking” the 1st knitted stitch as follows: Insert the needle into the 1st stitch purl-wise and tighten. Do not slip the stitch from the needle. Insert the needle from the back between the 1st and 2nd stitch so that the strand comes to the front, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 2nd stitch knit-wise, pull the strand through. Insert the needle into the 1st stitch knit-wise, pull the strand through then slip the 1st stich off the needle.

Insert the needle into the 2nd stitch purl-wise, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 1st stitch purl-wise, pull the thread through, slip the 1st stitch off the needle (the strand is now at the back).
From the back, insert the needle between the 1st and 2nd stitch, pull the strand through. From the front, insert the needle into the 2nd stitch knit-wise, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 1st stitch knit-wise, pull the strand through, slip the 1st stitch from the needle.

Now start casting off in rib.
1: When casting off a purled stitch, sew as follows: Insert the needle into the 2nd stitch (a knitted stitch) purl-wise, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 1st stitch (a purled stitch) purl-wise, pull the strand through, slip 1st stitch from the needle (the strand is now at back).

2: When casting off a knitted stitch, sew as follows: From the back, insert the needle between 1st and 2nd stitch, pull the strand through. From the front, insert the needle into the 2nd stitch (a purled stitch) knit-wise, pull the strand through, insert the needle into the 1st stitch knit-wise, pull the strand through, slip 1st stitch from the needle.
Repeat directions 1 and 2 until all stitches are cast off (the last 2 stitches are cast off in the same way even though they are both knitted stitches). Pull the strand through the last stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked simultaneously, in one large piece, from right to left. Stitches are cast off for the neckline, other stitches placed on a stitch holder/thread for the right band, new stitches cast on for the left band, stitches increased for the neck and the piece worked to finished length.
The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up. The piece is sewn together. The bottom rib, double neck and bands are worked to finish.

RIGHT SIDE OF PIECE (when the piece is worn):
Cast on 169-169-185-185-201-201 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm, 1 strand DROPS Merino Extra Fine and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk held together (2 strands).
Knit 1 row from the right side, knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Insert 1 marker in the 85th-85th-93rd-93rd-101st-101st stitch on the row. The first 84-84-92-92-100-100 stitches before the marker-stitch (from right side) = right front piece and the 84-84-92-92-100-100 stitches after the marker-stitch = back piece.
The marker-stitch is mid-shoulder – allow the marker to follow your work onwards.

Work as follows from the right side: 1 EDGE STITCH – read description above, 6 stocking stitches, A.1, 21-21-21-21-29-29 stocking stitches, A.X, A.1, 61-61-77-77-77-77 stocking stitches (the marker sits in the 31st-31st-39th-39th-39th-39th stitch), A.1, A.Y, 21-21-21-21-29-29 stocking stitches, A.1, 6 stocking stitches, 1 edge stitch = 177-177-193-193-209-209 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit over knit and purl over purl (remember to work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes).

Work as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch, 6 stocking stitches, A.1, A.2A, work A.2B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.2C, A.3, A.1, A.2A, work A.2B 6-6-8-8-8-8 times, A.2C, A.1, A.4, A.2A, work A.2B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.2C, A.1, 6 stocking stitches and 1 edge stitch.
Continue this pattern back and forth until there is 1 row left before A.2 has been worked 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in height (ie one row from the wrong side left).
On the next row cast off for the neckline: Work until there are 6 stitches left before the marker-stitch, cast off 16 stitches over the shoulder (6 stitches before the marker-stitch on the back piece, the stitch with the marker and 9 stitches after the marker-stitch on the front piece), work to end of row. The piece measures approx. 19-19-25-25-31-31 cm from the cast-on edge.
Continue the right front piece and back pieces separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 79-79-87-87-95-95 stitches. Continue the pattern back and forth – AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the neckline at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: 2 stitches 3 times = 73-73-81-81-89-89 stitches.
Work until A.2 has been worked 4½-4½-5½-5½-6½-6½ times in height from the cast-on edge, finishing after row 7 in A.2 so the squares are closed at the top. Place the 73-73-81-81-89-89 stitches on a stitch holder. The right front piece measures approx. 27-27-33-33-39-39 cm from the cast-on edge.

BACK PIECE:
= 82-82-90-90-98-98 stitches. Start from the right side and continue the pattern back and forth. When you have worked 2 rows, cast off 2 stitches for the neckline on the next row from the right side = 80-80-88-88-96-96 stitches.
Work until there are 3 rows left before A.2 has been worked 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in height from the cast-on edge (with the next row from the wrong side).
On the next row (wrong side), cast on 2 stitches for neck at the end of the row = 82-82-90-90-98-98 stitches.
On the next row from the wrong side, cast on 16 stitches at the end of the row = 98-98-106-106-114-114 stitches. A.2 has now been worked 6-6-7-7-8-8 times in height from the cast-on edge. Place the stitches on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 73-73-81-81-89-89 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and PROVISIONAL CAST ON – read description above (gives you open stitches along the cast-on edge).
Work back as follows from the wrong side (the diagrams are read from left to right when working from the wrong side): 15-15-23-23-23-23 stocking stitches, work row 2 in the diagrams in the following order: A.1, A.3, A.2C, work A.2B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.2A, A.1, 6 stocking stitches and 1 edge stitch.
Work as follows from the right side (all diagrams now worked from row 1, except A.2 which starts on row 7 so that you start the pattern in the same way as you finished A.2 on the right front piece): Work 1 edge stitch, 6 stocking stitches, A.1, A.2A, work A.2B 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, A.2C, A.3, A.1, A.2A, work A.2B to end of row.
Continue until you have worked 12 rows in A.2. Now increase for the neckline by casting on 2 stitches at the end of each row from the right side 3 times = 79-79-87-87-95-95 stitches. Work back from the wrong side. The left front piece should have finished A.2 on the same row as the back piece. Now join the left front piece and back piece together:

LEFT SIDE OF PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Work as before over the left front piece, then work over the back piece = 177-177-193-193-209-209 stitches.
Continue until A.2 has been worked 3-3-4-4-5-5 times in height after the neckline (9-9-11-11-13-13 times from the cast-on edge at the beginning of the piece). Work 1 row from the right side so the squares in A.2 are closed at the top – AT THE SAME on this row, decrease 2 stitches over each cable in A.3 and A.4 by knitting the stitches together 2 and 2 = 169-169-185-185-201-201 stitches. Work back from the wrong side with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Insert 1 marker in the 85th-85th-93rd-93rd-101st-101st stitch on the row. The stitch with the marker-stitch is mid-shoulder.
Knit 1 row from the right side, knit 1 row from the wrong side. Cast off with knit from right side. The piece measures approx. 54-54-66-66-78-78 cm from the cast-on edge.

RIB AT BOTTOM OF BACK PIECE:
Knit up from the right side with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality, 113-113-139-139-163-163 stitches inside 1 edge stitch. The stitch count should be divisible by 2 + 1.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 2 EDGE STITCHES – read description above, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1 and 2 edge stitches.
Continue this rib back and forth for 7 cm. Cast off with ITALIAN CAST-OFF – read description above, or with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 59-59-64-64-69-69 cm from the marker on the shoulder.

RIB AT BOTTOM OF RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when the garment is worn):
Knit up from the right side with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality, 56-56-70-70-82-82 stitches inside 1 edge stitch. The stitch count should be divisible by 2.
Work as follows from the wrong side (mid-front): 1 edge stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, purl 1 and 2 edge stitches.
Continue this rib back and forth for 7 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the back piece.

RIB AT BOTTOM OF LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Knit up from the right side the same number of stitches as on the right front piece and work from the wrong side as follows (from the side): 2 edge stitches, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch.
Continue this rib for 7 cm. Cast off with Italian cast-off; when you have «locked» the first stitch go to explanations 1 and 2 and cast off all stitche or cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 62-64-66-68-72-74 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 7 cm. Knit 1 round and decrease 11-13-15-9-13-15 stitches evenly spaced = 51-51-51-59-59-59 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round and allow it to follow your work onwards.
Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Knit 1 round. Then work the next round as follows: Knit 1, A.5A, work A.5B 5-5-5-6-6-6 times, A.5C, knit 1. Continue this pattern.
When the sleeve measures 10 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 12-6-4-7-3-3 cm a total of 3-5-6-4-6-7 times = 57-61-63-67-71-73 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 43-45-40-41-36-37 cm – it is neatest to finish after round 2 or 8 in A.5. Cast off a little loosely with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Insert a marker 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm below the marker on the shoulder on both the front and back pieces = armhole (adjust to match the width of the top of the sleeve).
Sew the side seams inside the cast-off and cast-on edges (the ridge should be visible) – starting the seam at the bottom of the armhole and sewing down to the rib = 7 cm split on each side.
Sew in the sleeves, inside the cast-off and cast-on edges on the body (the ridge should be visible).

DOUBLE NECK:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Knit up from the right side 105 to 115 stitches along the neck, inside the 1 edge stitch. The stitch count should be divisible by 2 + 1.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch. Work this rib back and forth for 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm. Cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

RIGHT BAND:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Start from the right side at the bottom of the right front piece and knit up 14 stitches inside 1 edge stitch along the rib, place the 73-73-81-81-89-89 stitches from the stitch holder onto the needle. Knit the stitch-holder stitches and increase 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches evenly over these stitches, then knit up 14-14-14-14-16-16 stitches inside 1 edge stitch along the neck (through both layers) = 107-107-117-117-129-129 stitches. The stitch count should be divisible by 2 + 1.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch. Work this rib back and forth.
AT THE SAME TIME after 1 cm work 6-6-7-7-7-7 buttonholes evenly spaced (the top buttonhole is worked in the transition between the neck and the body, the bottom buttonhole 3-4 cm above the bottom edge). 1 BUTTONHOLE = make 1 yarn over and work 2 stitches together.
Work until the band measures 3½ to 4 cm. Cast off with Italian cast-off but when you have «locked» the first stitch go straight to explanations 1 and 2 and cast off all stitches (or cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl).

LEFT BAND:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and 1 strand of each quality (2 strands). Start from the right side at the top of the left front piece and knit up 14 stitches inside 1 edge stitch along the rib on the neck (through both layers), place the 73-73-81-81-89-89 stitches from the stitch holder on the needle. Knit these stitches and increase 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches evenly over these stitches then knit up 14-14-14-14-16-16 stitches inside 1 edge stitch along the rib = 107-107-117-117-129-129 stitches – adjust so that there is the same number of stitches as for right band.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 edge stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 edge stitch. Work this rib back and forth for 3½ to 4 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the right band.
Sew on the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 27.09.2023
BACK PIECE: The number of stitches on neckline has been edited in XL and XXL.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled on the next row (wrong side) to leave a hole
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled twisted on the next row (wrong side) to avoid a hole
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle in behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, insert the right needle from the back between the 2 stitches on the cable needle and knit the left stitch, do not slip this stitch off the needle, knit the right stitch so this lies diagonally over the other 2 stitches and slip both stitches off the cable needle
	= slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
	= place 2 stitches on cable needle in behind the piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= knitting direction
	= the sketch shows the knitting direction of both the front and back piece

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (5)

Jos wrote:

Bonjour, auriez-vous un vidéo qui montre comment faire le 7ième icône. Merci

14.03.2024 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jos, tout à fait, retrouvez-la ici. Bon tricot!

14.03.2024 - 16:32

Kate wrote:

On ne voit jamais de photos du dos de vos modèles . pourquoi ? c est dommage

12.09.2023 - 10:45

Bonjour Kate, on ne montre des photos du dos que lorsqu'il a un intérêt particulier, ici, comme souvent, il est tout simplement comme le devant (sans les bordures des devants au milieu bien sûr). Bon tricot!

12.09.2023 - 16:58

Savita Khurana wrote: