DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Heart Catcher

Knitted jumper in DROPS Flora and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern and bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 231-4

#heartcatchersweater

DROPS Design: Pattern fl-071
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 22, white fog
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-150-150 g colour 40, pink pearl

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase by making 1 yarn over inside 2 stitches on each side (2 stitches increased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections back and forth, and bottom up then sewn together. The neck is worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 90-98-110-122-130-142 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side. When the rib measures 4 cm, change to circular needle size 5 mm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 13-13-19-19-21-21 stitches evenly spaced = 77-85-91-103-109-121 stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
Then work pattern as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 6-1-4-1-4-1 stitches in stocking stitch, A.1 3-4-4-5-5-6 times in width, A.2, 6-1-4-1-4-1 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row as follows (continue the pattern where a complete bobble/lace repeat fits in width, work the stitches which do not fit in stocking stitch): Cast off 3-3-3-5-5-7 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 0-0-0-1-2-3 times and 1 stitch 1-1-2-2-2-2 times on each side = 69-77-81-85-87-91 stitches.

Continue with the pattern over the stitches that fits a complete bobble/lace pattern in width, work the stitches which do not fit in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 46-48-48-50-52-54 cm (with the next row a stocking stitch row from the right side), cast off the middle 27-27-29-29-31-31 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately (21-25-26-28-28-30 stitches on the shoulder).
Continue with the pattern over the stitches that fits a complete bobble/lace pattern in width, work the stitches which do not fit in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. AT THE SAME TIME cast off on each row from the neck as follows:
1 stitch 2 times = 19-23-24-26-26-28 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back until the piece measures 42-44-44-46-46-48 cm (with the next row a stocking stitch row from the right side). Place the middle 19 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately (25-29-31-33-34-36 stitches on the shoulder).
Continue with the pattern over the stitches that fits a complete bobble/lace pattern in width, work the stitches which do not fit in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
AT THE SAME TIME cast off on each row from the neck as follows:
2 stitches 2 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-3-4-4 times = 19-23-24-26-26-28 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. Cast off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 50-54-54-58-62-62 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib (knit 2, purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the rib measures 4 cm, change to circular needle size 5 mm and continue with stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. On the first row decrease 8-10-8-10-10-8 stitches evenly spaced = 42-44-46-48-52-54 stitches. When the sleeve measures 12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP! Increase like this every 5½-5-4½-4-3-2½ cm a total of 6-7-8-8-9-11 times = 54-58-62-64-70-76 stitches. When the sleeve measures 46-46-45-43-43-41 cm cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row as follows:
4 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 3 times, 1 stitch 2 times on each side, then 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures 51 cm, cast off 3 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves and sew the sleeve and side seams in one go, inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Knit up 74 to 92 stitches (including the stitches from the thread) from the right side, inside the 1 edge stitch, with short circular needle size 4 mm and 1 strand of each quality. The number of stitches should be divisible by 2. Work stocking stitch in the round for 2½ cm. Now work a folding-edge as follows: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to the end of the round. Continue with stocking stitch for another 2 cm. Cast off. Fold the neck to the inside and sew down.

Diagram

	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= bobble: Insert the right needle into the stitch 2 rows below, pick up the strand (make sure the stitch is not tight; it should be 2 cm long), * make 1 yarn over, pick up 1 more stitch in the same way , work from -* 2 more times (4 stitches and 3 yarn overs), slip the 7 stitches/yarn overs onto the left needle and knit them twisted together with the next stitch on the left needle (no increased stitches)

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Katharina, Germany

Comments / Questions (20)

Maddalena De Marchi wrote:

Buongiorno,gentilmente c’è un video per capire il punto nocciolina?Sono una principiante.Grazie e buona giornata.

07.01.2025 - 09:50

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maddalena, provi a vedere se questo video le può essere di aiuto. Buon lavoro!

19.01.2025 - 15:27

Heidi wrote:

Maskeantallet stemmer ikke på forstykket når jeg skal sette av masker til hals. Hva er riktig antall?

05.06.2024 - 20:11

Hei Heidi. Vi skal hjelpe deg så godt vi kan, men fint om du kan opplyse hvilken str. du strikker. Sjekk at du har felt riktig i den str. du strikker etter. Etter fellinge til ermhull skal du ha 69-77-81-85-87-91 masker, så settes 19 masker på 1 tråd (= hals) = 50-58-62-66-68-72 masker (= 25-29-31-33-34-36 masker tilbake på hver skulder). Hvilket maskaantall har du? mvh DROPS Design

10.06.2024 - 08:52

Concetta La Scala wrote:

Come si lavora con 2 filati , alternandosi con con i filati?Prima una maglia con un filo e poi la 2 con l'altro filo e via di seguito. Grazie

08.03.2024 - 16:51

Buonasera Concetta, deve lavorare con entrambi i filati. Buon lavoro!

09.03.2024 - 17:06

Rita wrote:

Kan ik voor dit patroon alpaca silk brushed (Color14 al in bezit)gebruiken in combinatie met Flora 14 ijsblauw

17.12.2023 - 18:59

Dag Rita,

In het patroon worden 2 draden van garencategorie A gebruikt. Dit komt ongeveer overeen met de dikte van garens uit garencategorie C. Als je alleen Brushed Alpaca Silk gebruikt komt de stekenhouding wel ongeveer overeen, maar als je er nog een draad van categorie A bij neemt, komt het niet meer overeen.

P.s.: met de garenvervanger kun je ook een vervangend garen berekenen. Hiervan vindt je een link onderaan de materialenlijst bij ieder patroon.

20.12.2023 - 19:26

DEVOT JOSIANE wrote:

Bonjour. Pouvez vous me faire parvenir un tuto explicatif pour ce modèle afin de tricoter la nope avec les mailles à deux rangs dessous et jeté, soit sur 7 mailles (4 mailles et 3 jetés) Avec mes remerciements. Cordialement

23.10.2023 - 17:10

Bonjour Mme Devot, au lieu de piquer l'aiguille dans la maille suivante sur l'aiguille gauche (vous la tricoterez à la fin), *piquez l'aiguille droite 2 rangs sous cette maille, faites 1 jeté sur l'aiguille droite et ramener le fil, cette maille doit faire environ 2 cm, faites 1 jeté*, puis recommencez de *-* jusqu'à ce qu'il y ait un total de 4 mailles et 3 jetés = 7 mailles au total- avec l'aiguille gauche, reprenez ces 7 mailles (à partir de la dernière tricotée), puis tricotez les ensemble à l'endroit avec la maille suivante sur l'aiguille gauche (celle au-dessus de là où vous avez piqué votre aiguille). Bon tricot!

24.10.2023 - 08:57

Aline Deschesnes wrote:

J ai de la difficulté a comprendre l'emmanchure. J aimerai avoir plus explication ou un vidéo merci

30.11.2022 - 13:57

Bonjour Mme Deschesnes , pour l'emmanchure dos/devant, vous devez rabattre de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs: fois 3-3-3-5-5-7 mailles, 0-0-0-1-2-3 fois 2 mailles et 1-1-2-2-2-2 fois 1 maille soit un nombre différent de mailles et de fois en fonction de votre taille, pensez à bien rabattre le même nombre de mailles à chaque fois en début de rang sur l'endroit et en début de rang sur l'envers. N'hésitez pas à nous indiquer votre taille si besoin. Bon tricot!

30.11.2022 - 17:00

Sofia wrote:

Finn det någon instruktionsvideo för den här typen av musch där man ska hämta upp tråd från varv nedanför?

08.05.2022 - 09:34

Hej Sofia, denne video viser samme princip: bubblor

11.05.2022 - 08:19

Caroline wrote:

Bonjour, je peine à faire les nopes dans ce modèle. Il ne s’agit pas de la même façon de faire que dans le tutoriel de nopes joint aux explications. Serait-il possible d’avoir une vidéo pour ce type de nopes s’il-vous-plaît ? Merci d’avance. Caroline

28.02.2022 - 21:24

Bonjour Caroline, cette vidéo montre ce type de nope pour un autre modèle, la seule différence est qu'ici vous allez piquer l'aiguille 2 rangs plus bas et non 6 rangs plus bas comme dans la vidéo, le reste de la nope se fait de la même façon - cf time code 01:33. Bon tricot!

01.03.2022 - 09:56

Kiya Stangbye Thorberg wrote:

Flora 22 hedder Tåge og ikke Kridt. Plus Kid-Silk 40 Perlerosa virker for varm ift. den kolde farve i viser på billedet. Kan der være skrevet forkert og der er brugt Kid-Silk 04 Rosa med Flora Tåge? Hilsen Kiya Thprberg

15.02.2022 - 06:06

Hej Kiya, Tak for info, nu stemmer det, den er strikket i DROPS Flora 22 hvid tåge og DROPS Kid-Silk 40 perlerosa

15.02.2022 - 09:04

Marion wrote:

Als ik het patroon lees begrijp ik niet dat je een rondbreinaald moet gebruiken voor het aparte achter en voorpand …. dan krijg je rond achter- en voor pand? Kunnen mij vertellen hoe ik dat moet zien ?

08.02.2022 - 21:38

Dag Marion,

Vanwege het grote aantal steken wordt een rondbreinaald geadviseerd omdat de steken dan beter op de naald passen (met name bij de grotere maten), maar je kunt de panden inderdaad ook op rechte naalden breien.

11.02.2022 - 14:30

Heart Catcher

Knitted jumper in DROPS Flora and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern and bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (20)

Heart Catcher

Knitted jumper in DROPS Flora and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace pattern and bobbles. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Flora uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	2.40 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Flora mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	2.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Flora uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 2.40 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Flora mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 2.50 £ /50g Order