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DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 25.00 RON /25g

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 255.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Frosted Fruit Sweater

Knitted jumper in DROPS Lima and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with cables, bobbles and double neck edge. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 226-23

#frostedfruitsweater

DROPS design: Pattern no li-135
Yarn group B and A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g colour 9010 ash grey
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour no 10, grey

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jumpers assembly free bobble cable double neck sewn in sleeves top down

DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 13.00 RON /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 25.00 RON /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 255.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6. Choose diagram for your size. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 17 stitches), minus edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) , and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 6) = 2.5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch and do not increase over edge stitches. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked top down. Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle separately. Work sleeves first back and forth until sleeve cap is done, then work in the round on a short circular needle/double pointed needles. When all parts are done, assemble the piece by sewing the parts together. Finish with a double neck edge in the round on a short circular needle.

FRONT PIECE:
Right shoulder:
Cast on 17-18-19-18-20-22 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 6 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 23-24-25-24-26-28 stitches. Now work pattern as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 18 stitches. Continue back and forth like this. When you have worked up to 11th row in A.1, cast on stitches at the end of every row from right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 4-4-4-5-5-5 stitches 1 time (8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches cast on for neck) = 31-32-33-33-35-37 stitches. When 1 row remains in A.1 put piece aside. Work left shoulder.

Left shoulder:
Cast on 17-18-19-18-20-22 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while at the same time increasing 6 stitches evenly = 23-24-25-24-26-28 stitches. Now work pattern as follows:
Work A.1 (choose diagram for your size) over the first 18 stitches, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this. When you have worked up to 10th row in A.2, cast on stitches at the end of every row from wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 2 times, 2 stitches 1 time and 4-4-4-5-5-5 stitches 1 time (8-8-8-9-9-9 stitches cast on for neck) = 31-32-33-33-35-37 stitches. Work last row in A.2 from wrong side and cast on 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches on row for neck, work last row in A.1 over stitches on right shoulder = 71-73-75-77-81-85 stitches.

Now work pattern as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.3 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches, work A.4 over the next 20 stitches, work A.5 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 3-3-3-5-5-5 stitches – purl over middle stitch instead of bobble on first row, work A.4 over the next 20 stitches, work A.6 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern back and forth like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 16 cm from cast-on edge for shoulder, cast on stitches for armholes at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4-4-4-4-4-4 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-4-5-6 times and 4-5-5-5-6-7 stitches 1 time (= 10-13-15-17-20-23 stitches increased in total in each side for armhole) = 91-99-105-111-121-131 stitches. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side.
Continue back and forth with pattern over the middle 61-61-61-65-65-65 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches (= 14-18-21-22-27-32 stitches in stocking stitch in each side between pattern and edge stitch in garter stitch).
Continue like this until piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm – adjust to finish after row marked with black or white star in A.4 and to increase on this row 3-3-4-3-6-5 stitches evenly in each side over the 14-18-21-22-27-32 stitches in stocking stitch (work yarn overs twisted on next row) = 97-105-113-117-133-141 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm.
Now work rib as follows from right side. If the pattern was finished on row with white star, work rib-1 and if it was finished on row with black star, work rib-2.

RIB-1 (used when finishing on row with white star in A.4 - this is the rib shown on photo):
Work first row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 20-24-28-28-36-40 stitches, knit 2, purl 3-3-3-4-4-4, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4, purl 3-3-3-4-4-4, knit 3 (these are middle stitches on row), purl 3-3-3-4-4-4, knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 4, purl 2, knit 2, purl 3-3-3-4-4-4, (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 20-24-28-28-36-40 stitches, knit 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib back and forth like this for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP.
Front piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from shoulder and down.

RIB-2 (used when finishing on row with black star in A.4):
Work first row as follows from right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 12-16-20-20-28-32 stitches, (knit 2/purl 3) over the next 10-10-10-15-15-15 stitches, (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 12-12-12-8-8-8 stitches, knit 4, (purl 2/knit 2) over the next 8 stitches, purl 3-3-3-5-5-5 (these are the middle stitches on row), (knit 2/purl 2) over the next 8 stitches, knit 4, (purl 2/knit 2) over the next 12-12-12-8-8-8 stitches, (purl 3/knit 2) over the next 10-10-10-15-15-15 stitches, (purl 2/knit 2) over the next 12-16-20-20-28-32 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib back and forth like this for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP.
Front piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from shoulder and down.

BACK PIECE:
Left shoulder:
Cast on 17-18-19-18-20-22 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 6 stitches evenly - remember INCREASE TIP = 23-24-25-24-26-28 stitches. Now work pattern as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 18 stitches. Continue back and forth like this. When you have worked up to 5th row in A.3, cast on 1 stitch at the end of last row from right side for neck = 24-25-26-25-27-29 stitches. Put piece aside and work the right shoulder.
Right shoulder:
Cast on 17-18-19-18-20-22 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from wrong side while at the same time increasing 6 stitches evenly = 23-24-25-24-26-28 stitches. Now work pattern as follows:
Work A.1 (choose diagram for your size) over the first 18 stitches, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until 4th row has been worked. At the end of this row (from wrong side), cast on 1 new stitch for neck = 24-25-26-25-27-29 stitches. Purl this stitch and what was previously edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck from right side and knit them from wrong side. Work 2 more rows with pattern as before, cast on 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches at the end of row from wrong side for neck, work from wrong side over stitch on left shoulder as follows: Knit 1, work 6th row in A.1 and continue pattern as before the rest of row = 71-73-75-77-81-85 stitches.
Now work pattern as follows:
Work pattern as before over the first 24-25-26-25-27-29 stitches, purl 3-3-3-4-4-4, knit 4, purl 9-9-9-11-11-11, knit 4, purl 3-3-3-4-4-4, work pattern as before over the last 24-25-26-25-27-29 stitches. Continue pattern like this and work knit over knit and purl over purl over the 23-23-23-27-27-27 stitches between A.1 and A.2.
When A.1 and A.2 have been worked vertically, continue pattern as follows:
Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.3 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches, work A.4 over the next 20 stitches, work A.5 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 3-3-3-5-5-5 stitches – purl over middle stitch instead of bobble on first row, work A.4 over the next 20 stitches, work A.6 (choose diagram for your size) over the next 9-9-9-10-10-10 stitches, work 4-5-6-5-7-9 stitches in stocking stitch and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue pattern back and forth like this.
When piece measures 16 cm from cast-on edge on shoulder, cast on stitches for armhole at the end of every row in each side the same way as on front piece (= 10-13-15-17-20-23 stitches increased in total in each side for armholes) = 91-99-105-111-121-131 stitches. Work the increased stitches in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Work the rest of back piece the same way as front piece.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 21-23-23-25-27-29 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Work pattern at the same time cast on stitches for sleeve cap - read the entire next section:

PATTERN:
Work pattern back and forth as follows: Work 2-3-3-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch, work the first 7 stitches in A.3, purl 3 (purl stitch from right side and knit from wrong side), work the last 7 stitches in A.6, work 2-3-3-4-5-6 stitches in stocking stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this. When you have worked up to 13th row/round in A.3 and A.6, work a group of bobbles over the middle 3-3-3-5-5-5 purl stitches on sleeve - work bobbles as shown on the last 4 rows and the first row in A.5 (i.e. work the last 4 rows in A.5 over the middle 3-3-3-5-5-5 stitches, then work the first row in A.5, to get a group of 4 bobbles in the middle of sleeve). Repeat this every 32nd row.
SLEEVE CAP:
At the same time cast on new stitches at the end of every row for sleeve cap as follows:
Cast on 2 stitches 4-3-3-3-3-2 times, 1 stitch 1-5-5-6-8-12 times and 2 stitches 4-3-4-4-3-2 times in each side. On next row from right side, cast on 8-10-10-10-12-14 stitches = 63-67-71-75-79-83 stitches.

Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-10-10-10-12-14 new stitches that were cast on (= mid under sleeve). Move marker thread upwards when working. Use it later when decreasing under sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Continue in the round with pattern as before over the middle 17 stitches on top of sleeve and work in stocking stitch over the remaining stitches on row. When sleeve measures 4 cm from where sleeve cap was finished, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm 9-10-12-13-14-15 times in total = 45-47-47-49-51-53 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 42-41-40-39-38-35 cm from where sleeve cap was finished (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders – Approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length. Knit 1 round while increasing 7-5-9-7-9-7 stitches evenly = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures 55-56-56-56-56-55 cm from cast-on edge. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside cast-on edges. Sew sleeves in body inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside cast-on edge on sleeves. Sew sleeve seam from armhole and down inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Repeat in the other side.

DOUBLE NECK EDGE:
Begin from right side with circular needle size 4 mm with 1 strand in each quality (= 2 strands). Pick up approx. 80 to 88 stitches inside 1 stitch around the neck edge. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) in the round for 8 to 9 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP.
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, purl 1 from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= Bobble: Knit 1 in front and back loop of same stitch until 1 stitch has been increased to 5 stitches, turn and work 3 rows in stocking stitch over the 5 stitches, turn and knit the 5 stitches together (= 1 stitch)
	= black star - adjust to finish after this row or row with white star before rib at the bottom of body
	= white star - adjust to finish after this row or row with black star before rib at the bottom of body
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 1 from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 2 from cable needle

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Comments / Questions (5)

Ana María Morales wrote:

Olvidé decir que en el elástico 2, en la primera hilera después del punto orillo, 16 puntos, los 10 puntos siguientes son 2 derechos y 3 reveses. Cabe destacar que en la espalda de la chaqueta (226/24) la descripción es correcta.

17.08.2022 - 19:45

En el hombro izq de la espalda dice: "cuando se haya trabajado la 5ª fila en A3,... Y también en la espalda para ambos hombros hace referencia sólo al diagrama A1. Igualmente sus modelos son buenísimos y siempre miro vuestra página. Gracias

09.08.2022 - 18:38

Willemien wrote: