DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Mayan Woods Cardigan

Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and rib on the yoke. Sizes 3 to 14 years.

DROPS Children 40-22
DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-022-bn
Yarn group B
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 - 13/14 years
Child’s height in cm:
98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152 - 158/164

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200-200-250-250-300-350 g colour 07, light sea green

DROPS WOOD BUTTONS, Flowers NO 628: 6-7-7-8-8-8 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 60 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 60 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Sky
DROPS Sky
74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 5.10 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 150 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 21) = 6.7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 6th and 7th stitch (approx. Do not increase on the bands). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 5th and 6th stitch and each 6th and 7th stitch (approx.).

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½-2 cm. Then work the other 5-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with 7-6½-7-6½-7-8 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 87-89-93-97-97-101 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 3 mm and DROPS Sky.
Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH– read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm – remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
On the next row increase the purled sections as follows:

SIZES 3/4 - 7/8 - 9/10 YEARS:
Work as before but every third purl-1 is increased to purl-2 (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over – start in the third purled stitch after the band (these yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next row) = 12-13-14 stitches increased = 99-106-111 stitches.

SIZES 5/6 - 11/12 - 13/14 YEARS:
Work as before but every second purl-1 is increased to purl-2 (seen from the right side) by making 1 yarn over – start in the second purled stitch after the band (these yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next row) = 19-21-22 stitches increased = 108-118-123 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
Continue the rib until the piece measures 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row increase 1-0-2-5-2-1 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 100-108-108-116-120-124 stitches.
After the ridge work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 2 stitches) *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, work A.1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. After the first row there are 145-157-157-169-175-181 stitches. Complete A.1 and A.2, then continue with knit 3, purl 3 until the piece measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm from the marker on the neck. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * A.3 (= 3 stitches), A.4 (= 3 stitches) *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, work A.3 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
After the first row there are 235-255-255-275-285-295 stitches. Complete A.3/A.4 then continue with knit 5, purl 5 until the piece measures 14-14-16-16-18-18 cm from the marker on the neck.
Knit 1 row from the right side where the number of stitches is adjusted to 230-242-254-266-278-294 stitches – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Continue with stocking stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from the marker on the neck.
On the next row divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows: Work as before over the first 37-39-41-43-45-47 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-48-50-52-54-58 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work 64-68-72-76-80-84 stitches (= back piece), place the next 46-48-50-52-54-58 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 37-39-41-43-45-47 stitches as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 150-158-166-174-182-190 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch back and forth and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 19-22-25-28-30-32 cm from the division. There is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length.
To avoid the following rib being tight, increase 21-21-23-25-25-27 stitches evenly spaced on the next row from the right side – remember INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 171-179-189-199-207-217 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work this rib for 3 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP!
The jacket measures approx. 40-44-48-52-55-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 46-48-50-52-54-58 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-54-56-58-60-64 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 6 new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 1 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4th-4th-4th-6th-6th-6th round a total of 4 times = 44-46-48-50-52-56 stitches.
Continue working without further increases until the sleeve measures 21-25-29-31-35-39 cm from the division.
There is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced = 40-42-44-46-48-52 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP!
The sleeve measures approx. 24-28-32-34-38-42 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 03.05.2022
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 ridge back and forth over all stitches – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row increase 1-0-2-5-2-1 stitches evenly spaced ...

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row (wrong side) work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 40-22

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Denise Andersson wrote:

OK: Byt till rundsticka 4. Nu stickas det 2 varv rätstickning fram och tillbaka över alla maskorna – SAMTIDIGT på första varvet ökas det 1-0-2-5-2-1 maskor jämnt fördelat När det är dags för nästa grupp/ökning så står det inte att man ska sticka 2 räta varv. Men det ser ut som det skall göras om jag tittar på bilden på koftan.

02.05.2023 - 20:02

country flag Denise Andersson wrote:

Det står att jag ska sticka 5 framkantsmaskor och att det är beskrivet ovan hur man gör. Men den beskrivningen hittar jag inte på mönstret. Såå hur gör jag?

28.04.2023 - 16:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Denise. Jo, det står så her: 5 framkantsmaskor i RÄTSTICKNING - läs förklaring ovan. Scroll opp og helt øvert i oppskriften rett under FÖRKLARING TILL BESKRIVNINGEN, står det: RÄTSTICKNING (stickas fram och tillbaka): Alla varv stickas räta. mvh DROPS Design

02.05.2023 - 09:10

country flag Mimma wrote:

Salve, vorrei un chiarimento sullo schema perché non riesco a proseguire dopo la la 1 costa e il cambio dei ferri 4 cm. Per fare A1 e A2 ed essendo sul dritto del lavoro, si devono alternare 1 m dritta1 m a rovescio per 3 volte e poi 1 m a rovescio e 1 a dr per altre 3 volte fino a 7 m dalla fine? Non capisco poi non essendoci aumenti nel 1 ferro come si arriva, nel mio caso la misura più piccola, da 100 maglie a 145. Grazie mille per la vostra cortese risposta.

14.02.2023 - 23:48

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mimma, il 1° giro è identico per entrambi i diagrammi e si lavora con 1 maglia diritto, 1 gettato, 1 maglia diritto, quindi 1 aumento ad ogni ripetizione del diagramma. Da 100 maglie togliendo le 5 maglie per lato per il bordo il diagramma si lavora su 90 maglie, per cui 45 ripetizioni, per un totale di 45 aumenti, passando da 100 a 145 maglie. Buon lavoro!

15.02.2023 - 20:06

country flag Lidi Van Overveld wrote:

Ik zou graag wat meer uitleg over het telpatroon ontvangen. In de beschrijving staat A.1 (=2 steken). In het telpatroon staan 3 hokjes. Moet er dan een steek bijgemaakt worden?

07.02.2023 - 16:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Lidi,

Je leest de telpatronen van onder naar boven, dus A.1 heeft 2 steken op de eerste toer. (Tussen deze 2 steken zit een omslag.)

08.02.2023 - 11:20

country flag Rosanne Squire wrote:

Is this pattern available in adult size, or closest similar design

04.07.2022 - 03:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Squire, you will find the matching design for adult here. Happy knitting!

04.07.2022 - 08:38

country flag Deborah Schroeder wrote:

I am making the Mayan Woods Cardigan , size 9/10 years. I have followed the rib pattern given until I have 111 stitches; after the first increases. I am now at the YOLK section. There it instructs to change to 4MM needles and increase 3 stitches for size 9/10. It then states I should have 116 stitches! How can that be? It doesn’t add up! 111 sts. plus 3 sts. increased = 114 sts. Do I add another two stitches? Is this an error in the pattern ?

21.04.2022 - 23:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deborah, we will send your question to the design department to check if there is a mistake in the pattern. Happy knitting!

23.04.2022 - 17:13

country flag CATHERINE PONCIN wrote:

Merci pour votre réponse rapide !!

19.04.2022 - 19:03

country flag Catherine wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé le col pour ce modèle, j'ai fait les 13 jetés pour les augmentations à 3 cms mais je ne sais pas comment continuer après le rang tricoté avec les mailles torses à l'endroit. En côtes 1/1 avec ces augmentations, le motif des côtes est décalé. Faut-il tricoter 5 mailles point mousse, *1 maille endroit / 2 mailles envers* à répéter jusqu'aux 5 mailles de bordure suivantes ? ou pouvez-vous m'indiquer comment faire ? Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement

19.04.2022 - 10:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Catherine, continuez en tricotant les mailles comme elles se présentent, autrement dit vous aurez des côtes *1 maille endroit /1 maille envers/1 maille endroit/1 maille envers/1 maille endroit/2 mailles envers* (vu sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

19.04.2022 - 12:01

country flag Anita Holst wrote:

Mayan Woods Cardigan 13/14 år - side 4 af 8 bærestykke 3. linie 1) hvorfor står der i parantes at A1 og A2 er 2 masker, når diagrammet viser 3 masker? 2) hvorfor står der at maskerne efter 1. pind skal være øget fra 124 masker til 181 masker? Skal de 181 masker ikke først komme efter diagram A1 og A2 er strikket færdig med alle sine 5 pinde? Håber på snarlig svar og på forhånd tak. MVH Anita

17.02.2022 - 13:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anita, husk at du altid starter på nederste pind i diagrammet. Første pind nederst i diagram A.1 og A.2 består af 2 masker, du har først 3 masker når du har lavet omslaget imellem de to masker. God fornøjels!

18.02.2022 - 13:55

country flag Anja wrote:

.... habe eben die Erklärung gelesen ... es wird nur die Vorderseite (also die Hin-R) gezeigt. ;-)

14.09.2021 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, alle Reihen werden gezeichnet, dh die Hin sowie die Rückreihen - hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.09.2021 - 16:10