DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
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DROPS Buttons
Arched (white) No. 521

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Sweet Marigold

Knitted jacket for baby and kids in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with raglan pattern and lace pattern. Size 6 month - 8 years

DROPS Baby & Children 38-11

#sweetmarigoldcardigan

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-021-bn
Yarn group A
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SIZE:
Size: 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 years)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128)

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150 (150-200-200-200) g colour 45, lemon

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch/lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for edges in garter stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5-5 (5-5-6-6) pieces.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (in the round - applies to sleeves):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 82 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) , and divide the stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 7) = 10.3.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 10th stitch. Do not increase over band stitches. On next row knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
All increases are done on a row from right side!
On front and back piece raglan increase is shown in diagrams.
Increase for raglan on each of the sleeves as follows:
Increase 1 stitch after 1st and 3rd marker and before 2nd and 4th marker by making a yarn over. Purl yarn overs twisted on next row (= from wrong side).
Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before stitch with marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 3, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1-1½ cm. Then decrease the next 4-4 (4-4-5-5) buttonholes, approx. 6- 6½ (7-7½-7-7½) cm between each.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 82-86 (92-95-100-104) stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Merino. Work 4 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above.
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 7-3 (3-0-9-5) stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 89-89 (95-95-109-109) stitches.
Purl 1 row from wrong side inside with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Insert 1 marker thread inside 5 band stitches. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work yoke as explained below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

YOKE:
Work next row as follows from right side:
Left front piece: Work 5 band stiches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 10-10 (12-12-14-14) stitches), A.4 (= 2-2 (1-1-3-3) stitches).
Left sleeve: Work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, insert 1st marker, make 1 yarn over, work 14 stitches in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, insert 2nd marker, 1 stitch in stocking stitch.
Back piece: Work A.5 (= 1-1 (1-1-2-2) stitches), A.2 over 20-20 (24-24-28-28) stitches, A.4 over 2-2 (1-1-3-3) stitches.
Right sleeve: Work 1 stitch in stocking stitch, insert 3rd marker, make 1 yarn over, work 14 stitches in stocking stitch, make 1 yarn over, insert 4th marker, 1 stitch in stocking stitch.
Right front piece: Work A.5 over 1-1 (1-1-2-2) stitches, A.3 (= 11-11 (13-13-15-15) stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch = 97-97 (103-103-113-113) stitches (including all yarn overs).
Continue pattern like this and increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above on every row from right side 14-16 (17-18-19-20) times in total (including increases on first row from right side after neck edge). When increase for sleeves are finished, continue in stocking stitch and pattern as before.
After last increase for raglan and A.4/A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 219-227 (255-259-287-291) stitches on needle.
Piece measures approx. 10-10 (12-12-15-15) cm from neck edge.
Now work pattern as follows (from right side):
Left front piece: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over 10-10 (12-12-14-14) stitches, A.2 over 10-10 (12-12-14-14) stitches, A.3 over 11-11 (13-13-15-15) stitches.
Left sleeve: Work 43-47 (49-51-53-55) stitches in stocking stitch.
Back piece: Work A.1 over 10-10 (12-12-14-14) stitches, A.2 over 40-40 (48-48-56-56) stitches (= 4 times in width), A.3 over 11-11 (13-13-15-15) stitches.
Right sleeve: Work 43-47 (49-51-53-55) stitches in stocking stitch.
Right front piece: Work A.1 over 10-10 (12-12-14-14) stitches, A.2 over 10-10 (12-12-14-14) stitches, A.3 over 11-11 (13-13-15-15) stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 12-13 (14-15-16-17) cm from marker thread after neck edge - adjust so that last row is from right side.
Work next row as follows from wrong side:
Continue with band and pattern as before over the first 36-36 (42-42-48-48) stitches (= front piece), slip the next 43-47 (49-51-53-55) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 9-9 (11-11-13-13) new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), continue with pattern as before over the next 61-61 (73-73-85-85) stitches (= back piece), slip the next 43-47 (49-51-53-55) stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 9-9 (11-11-13-13) new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and continue with pattern as before over the last 36-36 (42-42-48-48) stitches (= front piece).
Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 151-151 (179-179-207-207) stitches.
On next row as follows from right side (continue on correct row in diagram): Work 5 band stiches in garter stitch, A.1 over 10-10 (12-12-14-14) stitches, A.2 over 120-120 (144-144-168-168) stitches (= 12 times in width), A.3 over 11-11 (13-13-15-15) stitches and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 14-15 (17-19-22-25) cm from division - adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 3 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Cast off by knitting– read CAST-OFF TIP.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 43-47 (49-51-53-55) stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 9-9 (11-11-13-13) new stitches cast on under sleeve = 52-56 (60-62-66-68) stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle stitch under sleeve and begin round here.
Work in stocking stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 1½-1½ (2-3-3-3) cm 8-9 (9-8-9-9) times in total = 36-38 (42-46-48-50) stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 16-19 (22-28-32-33) cm.
Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm.
Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above.
Cast off by knitting. Sleeve measures approx. 17-20 (23-29-33-34) cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next row to avoid holes
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 2 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #sweetmarigoldcardigan or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Sweet Marigold

Franmade, Italy

Sweet Marigold

Daniela, Slovakia

Comments / Questions (35)

Nicole wrote:

Bonjour, comment adapter le motif avec les augmentations des diagrammes? Avec les jetés, il y a plus de mailles par ex. dans le dos, A2 (14 mailles) 2x=28 mailles mais le rang suivant, il y a plus de 28 mailles mais pas assez pour faire A2 3X. Merci pour vos explications!

31.10.2024 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, les augmentations figurent dans les diagrammes A.5 (début du dos) et A.4 (fin du dos), vous n'augmentez pas dans A.2, autrement dit, les 28 mailles de A.2 restent à 28, on va augmenter avant A.4 et après A.5 comme le montrent les diagrammes, ainsi c'est le nombre de mailles de A.4 et de A.5 qui va augmenter, pas celui de A.2. Bon tricot!

31.10.2024 - 15:51

Thifaine wrote:

Bonjour dans l’empiecement que signifie « au dessus des X mailles » je ne parvient pas à comprendre cette partie merci

22.07.2024 - 16:19

Bonjour Thifaine, cela signifie que vous devez tricoter le nombre de mailles indiqué en suivant le diagramme correspondant. Bon tricot!

02.08.2024 - 14:43

María Luisa wrote:

Hola, ¿Cuántos puntos deben haber antes del primer marcapuntos al comenzar a tejer la 5ta corrida del canesú? Gracias

06.03.2024 - 16:13

Hola María Luisa, el número de puntos dependerá de la talla que estés trabajando. ¿Puedes indicar tu talla? Los aumentos del raglán se hacen después del 1º marcapuntos, así que el número de puntos antes del marcapuntos solo varía según los aumentos en A.4. Dependiendo de la talla tendrás 10, 12 o 14 puntos en A.1 y 4 en puntos en A.4. Sumados a los otros 6 puntos (5 de la cenefa + 1 en punto jersey) deberías tener 20 puntos en las tallas más pequeñas, 22 puntos en las medianas o 24 puntos en las tallas más grandes.

10.03.2024 - 20:59

Jenni Damborg wrote:

Hej igen. Hvordan skal jeg så strikke således at slå om maske ved ærmet ikke forstyrrer mønster? Bliver ærmet udvidet fra 14 masker til flere eller hvordan skal omslaget strikkes/passe ind i mønster? Håber I kan hjælpe.

27.11.2023 - 10:01

Hei Jenni. På forstykkene og bakstykket inngår raglanøkningen i diagrammene (se i diagrammene hvordan kastene skal strikkes på neste omgang). Det er ingen mønster på ermene. Du øker til ermene etter 1. og 3.merke og før 2. og 4.merke ved å lage et kast om pinnen. Kastene strikkes vridd vrang på neste pinne (= fra vrangen). Videre strikkes de nye maskene i glattstrikk. mvh DROPS Design

27.11.2023 - 11:33

Jeg strikker str 2 år og kan får 99 masker i stedet for 95 til start. Jeg kan se at problemet er ved start og slut ærmer. Jeg tæller 1 m glatstrik, 1 slåom, 14 glatstrik, 1 slåom, 1 glatstrik. Dette giver 18 masker men kan se i jeres andre kommentarer at der kun skal være 16 masker. Defor forskel på 2x2 masker, altså 4 for meget. Hvad har jeg misforstået? På forhånd tak for hjælpen

25.11.2023 - 09:59

Hei Jenni. Ikke tell kastene (slå om) som en maske, altså slik skal du telle: 1 m glatstrik + 14 glatstrik + 1 glatstrik = 16 masker. mvh DROPS Design

27.11.2023 - 09:10

Dagmar Povlsen wrote:

Jeg er nybegynder og forstår ikke raglan udtagningerne, her står at raglanudtagningerne indgår i diagrammerne ??? Vil i beskrive hvordan jeg skal tage ud til ærmerne så jeg ender med 259 masker Skal mønster A. 5 også læses fra venstre mod højre

01.11.2023 - 11:23

Hei Dagmar. På forstykkene og bakstykket inngår raglanøkningen i diagrammene (A.4 og A.5), men raglanøkningene til ermene er forklar under RAGLAN. Når du strikker fra retten, leses diagrammene fra høyre til venstre. Når du strikker vra vrangen leses diagrammene fra venstre mot høyre. mvh DROPS Design

06.11.2023 - 10:13

Maria wrote:

I am knitting the yoke for size 12/18 and the instructions for the left front indicate to follow the pattern A4 (=2-2(1-1-3-3) stitches. Which A4 shall I use?. There are A4 for 2-3/4, A.4 for 6/9-12/18, and A.4 for 5/6-7/8. Also, I had assumed the back was in stockinette stitch, but apparently it is in the decorative stitch. The instructions to start the back piece indicate to use A.5 (size 6/9 and A.2 over 20-20 stitches for size 12/18, etc. Am I misreading the pattern? Thanks for your help

28.07.2023 - 03:28

Hi Maria, You use A.4 for sizes 6/9 and 12/18 on the left front piece On the back piece you use A.5 as you rightly suggest (for size 12/18). Happy knitting!

28.07.2023 - 06:47

Maria Taub wrote:

I would appreciate your help. I am trying to make size 12/18 months of Sweet Marigold jacket. Unfortunately, I do not understand the instructions on how to start the design for the front pieces. Looking at the diagrams on pages 7 to 11 (in English) I see A1, A2, and A3 only for bigger sizes. Thank you very much for explaining to me how to do this beautiful design.

25.07.2023 - 23:28

Hi Maria, Diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3 for 12/18 months are the fourth row of diagrams from the top. Happy knitting!

26.07.2023 - 06:42

Suzanne MacDonald wrote:

Hi, I am knitting size 2-3/4 and am having trouble with A.5. It seems to me that there are more increases than shown on the pattern for the next row. For example, in row 11, it shows two yarn overs and one stitch increase which would result in two additional stitches, but only one additional stitch is shown in the pattern. This seems to occur again for rows 13 (3 increases but only two shown on pattern) and again in 15, 17 and 19. Please help, thanks

01.07.2023 - 09:38

Dear Mrs MacDonald, correct you are increasing sometimes only 1 stitch (eg row 1, 3,5 in A.5) and sometimes 2 sts (row 11, 13, 19... in A.5), and same in A.4, you will increase 1 st in row 1, 5... in A.4 and 2 sts in row 3, 11,13... in A.4), just follow diagram and make sure you get the correct number of increases / stitches to let the lace pattern matching. Happy knitting!

03.07.2023 - 09:44

Le Hunsec Sophie wrote:

Bonjour, je tricote la taille 3/4. Sur le premier rang après le col, il me reste plus de 5 mailles. ... merci pour votre aide Sophie

12.05.2023 - 07:21

Bonjour Mme Le Hunsec, tricotez vos 95m ainsi: 5 m point mousse, A.1 (12 m), A.4 (1 m) (devant gauche), 1 m, 14 m, 1 m (manche), A.5 (=1 m), A.2 (24 m), A.4 (1 m) (dos), 1 m, 14 m, 1 m (manche), A.5 (1 m), A.3 (13 m), 5 m point mousse (devant droit) =5+12+1+1+14+1+1+24+1+1+14+1+1+13+5=95 m. Bon tricot!

12.05.2023 - 08:06

Sweet Marigold

Knitted jacket for baby and kids in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with raglan pattern and lace pattern. Size 6 month - 8 years

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

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How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

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Sweet Marigold

Sweet Marigold

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Sweet Marigold

Knitted jacket for baby and kids in DROPS BabyMerino. Piece is knitted top down with raglan pattern and lace pattern. Size 6 month - 8 years

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	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order
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	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order