DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Arctic Tide

Knitted jumper with raglan for men in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with textured pattern and stocking stitch. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 219-5
DROPS design: Pattern ai-271
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-400-400-450 g colour no 17, denim blue

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 72 stitches) divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 12) = 6. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 6th stitch. On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan every other round, increase 1 stitch on each side of 2 stitches in stocking stitch in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in pattern. 

DECREASE TIP: 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch and cast off these as regular stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round top down, then divide the piece into body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 68-72-80-88-88-104 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Air.
Knit 1 round, then work rib knit 2 and purl 2 until piece measures approx. 9 cm.
Knit 1 round and increase 12 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP in explanation above = 80-84-92-100-100-116 stitches.

YOKE:
Switch to circular size 5 mm and insert a marker thread on this round, this is used for measurement later.
Now insert 4 markers in the piece while AT THE SAME TIME working as follows (beginning of round is between back piece and sleeve): Work 2 stitches in stocking stitch and insert a marker between these 2 stitches, work pattern A.1 over 10-10-14-14-14-18 stitches (= sleeve), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch and insert a marker between these 2 stitches, work pattern A.1 over 26-28-28-32-32-36 stitches (= front piece), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch and insert a marker between these 2 stitches, work pattern A.1 over 10-10-14-14-14-18 stitches, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch and insert a marker between these 2 stitches, and work pattern A.1 over 26-28-28-32-32-36 stitches (= back piece).

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
On next round begin increase for RAGLAN - read explanation above, continue with pattern A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 9-10-11-12-13-14 cm from marker thread work pattern A.2 over all stitches - continue increase for raglan but now work the 2 stitches in raglan line as stitches in pattern A.2 (work also the increased stitches into pattern A.2). When diagram A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with pattern A.1, work raglan stitches in stocking stitch and work the increased stitches into pattern A.1.
Continue pattern like this increasing 21-24-26-28-31-33 times in total for raglan = 248-276-300-324-348-380 stitches on row.
Continue with pattern as before without increase until piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm from marker thread.
Beginning of round is before the 2 stitches in raglan line between back piece and sleeve, and when dividing piece into sleeves and body, work according to diagram A.2 as follows from beginning of round: Work the first 4-3-4-4-6-6 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 48-56-62-66-68-72 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work 76-82-88-96-106-118 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 48-56-62-66-68-72 stitches on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 72-79-84-92-100-112 stitches (= the rest of back piece, 76-82-88-96-106-118 stitches in total on back piece).

BODY:
= 164-176-192-208-228-252 stitches. Then work in the round according to diagram A.2.
When diagram has been worked vertically, continue in stocking stitch. Insert a new marker in middle of the new stitches cast on in each side. When piece measures approx. 4 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker in each side - read DECREASE TIP in explanation above. Repeat decrease approx. every 6-8-8-8-8-6 cm 4-3-4-4-4-5 times in total = 148-164-176-192-212-232 stitches.
Work until piece measures 31-31-32-32-32-32 cm from division.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib with knit 2/purl 2 for 5 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl. Piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-56-62-66-68-72 stitches from one stitch holder on a short circular needle or double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick in addition up 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches in each of the new stitches cast on in the side on body = 54-62-70-74-76-80 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 new stitches picked up under sleeve = beginning of round. Then work in the round according to diagram A.2, when diagram has been worked vertically, continue in stocking stitch.
When piece measures approx. 4 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker, repeat decrease approx. every 2-3-2-2-2-2 cm 7-11-15-15-16-18 times in total = 40-40-40-44-44-44 stitches on needle.
Work until piece measures approx. 44-42-42-41-40-40 cm from division (or work to desired length, approx. 5 cm remain until finished measurements).
Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib with knit 2/purl 2 for 5 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl on next round.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck outwards towards right side. Fasten cast-on edge - sew with neat little stitches from the wrong side of the jumper (make sure to make the seam invisible from the right side and to avoid a tight seam).

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 219-5

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Susie wrote:

Hi could you tell me the positive ease for this pattern?:)

18.06.2024 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susie, to find the matching size, measure a garment he has and likes the shape and compare these to the chart, that's the best way to find the appropriate size and desired ease. Read more here. Happy knitting!

18.06.2024 - 12:46

country flag Silvia Eisenacher wrote:

Man braucht keine Zopfnadel, dieser Pullover hat keinen Zopf.

15.01.2023 - 15:31

country flag Natasa wrote:

No short rows are knitted for the back? Thanks

06.12.2022 - 00:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Natasa, No, this pattern has a round yoke so there are no short rows at the back. Happy knitting!

06.12.2022 - 06:44

country flag Karine wrote:

Koon M suurust jõudsin kohani kus tuleb varrukad 56 silmust ära tõsta. Pärast kasvatamisi on 58 silmust. Miks need 2 silmust tuleb lisada kehaosale?

21.11.2022 - 17:02

DROPS Design answered:

Tere Karine! Selleks, et raglaanijooned jookseksid külgedele, mitte varrukatele. Head kudumist!

15.12.2022 - 22:55

country flag Susy wrote:

Bonjour, J’aimerais savoir comment tricoter la jeté torse à l’envers, inclinaison à droite et à gauche por réaliser la partie A2. Merci

10.08.2022 - 06:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Susy, dans cette vidéo nous montrons comment tricoter un jeté torse à l'endroit au tour suivant, pour le tricoter torse à l'envers, tricotez simplement le brin arrière à l'envers au lieu de le tricoter à l'endroit. Cette autre vidéo montre une autre façon d'augmenter en orientant les jetés à droite/à gauche, tricotez de la même façon, mais à l'envers au lieu de à l'endroit comme le montre la vidéo. Bon tricot!

10.08.2022 - 09:17

country flag Ximena Ormaza wrote:

¡Hola! ¿Por favor cómo puedo hacer para cambiar una lana del grupo C a una del grupo D y manteniendo este mismo patrón de jersey ARTIC TIDE?

28.10.2021 - 19:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ximena, la tensión será diferente, por lo que el patrón no va a quedar igual. Vas a tener que trabajar menos puntos que los del patrón y recalcular por tu cuenta los números necesarios.

01.11.2021 - 12:44

country flag Christine Zerck wrote:

Hallo, meine Frage zu 219/5 Größe L: Müssen auch für die Ärmel je 8 neue Maschen angeschlagen werden? Das ist für mich nicht eindeutig beschrieben. Es heißt bei ÄRMEL "je 1 Masche aus den 8 neu angeschlagenen Machen auffassen" Es steht vorher nur, dass man für den Rumpf je 8 Maschen zusätzlich aufnehmen soll. Schöne Grüße Christine Z.

11.09.2021 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Christine, bei den Ärmeln werden die Maschen nicht angeschlagen sondern in den 8 angeschlagenen Maschen bei der Verteilung auffassen - diese Lektion zeigt mit Bild 11) wie diese Maschen angeschlagen werden und im Bild 18)B wie die Maschen hier aufgefassen werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.09.2021 - 08:27

country flag Erna Christiansen wrote:

Der er ikke noget diagram i opskriften.

10.09.2021 - 08:49

country flag Julie wrote:

I am having real difficulties with the chart A1 and incorporating the new stitches - do I knit the increases and then incorporate into the pattern on the next round? Do I wait until there are 4 increases, just knitting them each round or somehow try and work out where they sit in the chart. I’ve been knitting for years and this is really confusing me! So far I’ve spent two evenings knitting, unpicking, knitting, unpicking and I am no further forward.

14.06.2021 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Julie, the stockinett stitches of teh raglan line would show up the best, if you incorporate the increased stitches in the pattern atfter each increase. Since it is a 4 stitch repeat, it isn't very difficult to count back from the already existing pattern stitches what should come nect. Happy Stitching!

15.06.2021 - 00:28

country flag Manon Roy wrote:

Hi!, I just started to knit the Arctic Tide pull and I was wondering... for the beginning of the yoke... the pattern indicate to work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch and insert a marker between those 2 stitches then work pattern over 14 stitches... the pattern is over 4 stitches so my guess is that the first 2 stitches are to be take in consideration in the pattern. 14 divided by 4 is not good.. Could you please specify in details how to knit the Yoke to incorporate the chart,

27.03.2021 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Manon, Stitches that would not fit into a pattern repeat (because of increasing or decreasing) are knitted in stockinett stitch, and reincorporated as the number of stotches allows. Happy Knitting!

28.03.2021 - 11:56