Bulgaria

DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 5.00 BGN /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 75.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Extra 0-898

Men's knitted jumper with English rib, in DROPS Karisma. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-898 / This pattern still doesn't have a name. Suggest one!
DROPS design: Pattern no u-696
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
750-800-900-1000-1050-1150 g colour no 69, light grey green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 35 rows in English rib = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Men Men's Jumpers Men's Basic Jumpers bottom up english rib round neck sewn in sleeves

DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 5.00 BGN /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 75.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

MEASURING TIP: Because of the weight of the yarn all measurements must be done when the piece is held up.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

ENGLISH RIB (back and forth on needle):
Row 1 (from WS): 1 st in garter st, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, 1 st in garter st.
Row 2 (= from RS): 1 st in garter st, * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K tog YO and slipped st, 1 st in garter st.
Row 3 (= from WS): 1 st in garter st, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, 1 st in garter st.
Repeat 2nd and 3rd row upwards.

ENGLISH RIB ST:
When counting the sts, the YOs are not counted as sts.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted i.e. work in back loop of st instead front. NOTE: Work the inc sts in English rib.

CAST-OFF TIP:
When casting off, work YO and slipped st K tog (= K 1).
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 82-90-96-106-118-128 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Karisma. Work as follows – from RS: 1 edge st, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. Work edge st in GARTER ST until finished measurements - see explanation above. Work rib like this for 6 cm – READ MEASURING TIP.
Inc 1 st at the end of last row in rib (last row = from RS) = 83-91-97-107-119-129 sts. Continue to work in ENGLISH RIB with 1 edge st in each side - see explanation above.
When piece measures 47-47-47-46-45-43 cm, work a false raglan – 4 sts in English rib in each side should be displaced towards the neck. In the right side (from RS) inc 2 sts before 4 sts in English rib and dec 2 sts after 4 sts in English rib.
In the left side dec 2 sts before 4 sts in English rib and inc 2 sts after 4 sts in English rib. No of sts should always be the same. Work the 2 inc sts in English rib.
Work as follows from RS:
1 edge st in garter st, 2 YOs, insert 1 marker in piece, work 4 sts in English rib as before (YOs are not counted as sts - READ ENGLISH RIB ST), insert 1 marker in piece, pass next YO over st (so that it is behind this st), slip this st to the right needle as if to K, K the next 2 sts tog, psso, continue in English rib until 7 sts in English rib + 1 edge st remain, K the next 3 sts tog, insert 1 marker in piece, work 4 sts in English rib as before, insert 1 marker in piece, 2 YOs, finish with 1 edge st in garter st.
On next row work the new YOs as follows:

At beg of row (seen from WS): 1 edge st, P in back loop of first YO, 1 YO, K in back loop of second YO, continue in English rib as before.
At end of row (seen from WS): K 1 in back loop of first YO, P 1 in back loop of second YO, 1 YO, 1 edge st in garter st.

Work 4 rows in English rib over all sts. On next row work in English rib AT THE SAME TIME inc before first marker, dec after second marker, dec before third marker and inc after fourth marker as explained above. Inc and dec on every 6th row 11-12-13-15-17-19 times in total. Work in English rib for 2 cm after last dec/inc. Now cast off the middle 27-31-33-35-39-41 sts - READ CAST-OFF TIP = 28-30-32-36-40-44 sts remain on each shoulder. Finish each shoulder separately. Work in English rib for 2 cm, cast off. The whole piece measures approx. 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm. Insert 1 marker in each side of back piece, 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm down from shoulder. Markers show where sleeve is sewn in.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as on back piece until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm. Continue inc and dec on every 6th row AT THE SAME TIME cast off for neck as follows: Slip the middle 17-21-23-25-29-31 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue pattern and displacement as before AT THE SAME TIME cast off for neck on every row from mid front as follows: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1 time = 28-30-32-36-40-44 sts remain on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm. Insert 1 marker in each side of piece, 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm down from shoulder. Markers show where sleeve is sewn in.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Loosely cast on 44-46-48-50-52-54 sts with Karisma on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work as follows – from RS: 1 edge st, * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st. Work edge sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work rib for 6 cm – READ MEASURING TIP. Inc 1 st at the end of last row in rib (last row = from RS) = 45-47-49-51-53-55 sts. Then work in English rib with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP above! Repeat inc every 3-2½-2½-2½-2-2 cm 15-16-16-17-18-18 more times (16-17-17-18-19-19 inc in total) = 77-81-83-87-91-93 sts. When piece measures 58-57-56-55-53-51 cm (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), cast off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams inside 1 edge st. Sew in sleeves, down to markers on body. Sew side seams inside one edge st.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 84-88-92-96-100-104 sts (incl sts on stitch holder) around the neck on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work rib = K 1/P 1 for 3 cm, then cast off with K over K and P over P.

Diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (55)

Schrevens Arlette wrote:

Hallo,als je bij de schets de mouwen aftrekt van de totale lengte dan moet je toch meer cm breien dan in de beschrijving staat voor je aan de valse raglanmouwen begint of begrijp ik het verkeerd?Groetjes.

20.11.2022 - 12:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Arlette,

Dit kan per maat verschillend zijn (lees eerder beginnen dan dat het armsgat begint) om de schuine lijn goed te laten lopen en dus goed uit te komen met de hoogte en breedte die over is om de schuine lijn te maken bij de schouder. Hopelijk heb ik het zo goed uitgelegd. 🤔

20.11.2022 - 17:00

Christiane wrote:

Bij patroon drops 0898 staat het aantal rijen in de patentsteek opgegeven als 35 rijen voor tien cm.\r\nwanneer ik het staal brei, het aantal steken klopt 18 st per 10 cm maar het aantal rijen niet, voor 10 cm in patentsteek kom ik aan 48 rijen wat natuurlijk het verschil gaat maken bij het breien van de valse raglan. Ik moet i.p.v. 4 naalden 6 naalden breien om aan de juiste hoogte van het armsgat te komen. Kan ik daar wat uitleg over krijgen aubl.

10.10.2022 - 10:40

Dag Christiane,

Dat is nogal een verschil in aantal naalden en ik vermoed dat dat misschien te maken heeft met de patensteek. Dit is nogal een rekbare steek in de breedte, dus misschien moet je het proeflapje ietsje uitrekken in de breedte, waarschijnlijk kom je dan wel op de juiste stekenverhouding. (Wellicht moet je daar dan een dunnere naald voor gebruiken.)

12.10.2022 - 20:13

Mona wrote:

Ich verstehe irgendwie die abnehmen für den Halsausschnitt nicht ? Ich hab das so verstanden: 45 cm hochstricken Dann auf/abnahmen -> falsche raglanschräge beginnen dabei jede 6. Reihe Diese ab/Aufnahmen machen? Ab 66cm die Mittleren ma Abk.? Trotzdem mit der schräge fortfahren [halt separat weil ja das Teil geteilt ist ab da] Und... dann?? Am Hals in jeder raglanschrägenreihe 2ma Abk? Und am Rand 1 ma?

16.09.2022 - 20:41

Liebe Mona, stricken Sie die 5. Größe? Also ja beim 45 cm beginnen Sie die falsche Raglanabnahmen (mit Ab- bzw Zu-nahmen) 17 Mal insgesamt in jeder 6. Reihe; dann stricken Sie 2 cm Vollpatent und ketten Sie die mittleren Maschen für Halsausschnitt (= 45 cm + ca 28 cm = ca 74 cm), dann stricken Sie noch 2 weitere cm über jede Schulter = 76 cm von der Anschlagskante bis zur Schulter . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

11.10.2022 - 16:14

Brigitte wrote:

Hallo, ich möchte diesen Pullover in Halbpatent stricken. Erste Frage: muss die Maschenprobe ebenfalls hängend ausgemessen werden? Zweite Frage: ist es überhaupt möglich diesen falschen Raglan trotzdem zu stricken? Gruß Brigitte

25.09.2021 - 20:31

Liebe Brigitte, leider können wir jeder Anleitung nach jedem individuellen Frage anpassen und einzelne Modelle auf individuellen Wunsch hin umrechnen. Aber stimmt ja, immer eine Maschenprobe zuerst stricken, um zu prüfen, wie Sie dieses Modell nach Ihrem Geschmack anpassen können. Wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort hilft man Ihnen gerne weiter. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.09.2021 - 08:15

Ola wrote:

Håller med Christina, har stickat flera av tröjorna här med gott resultat, men den här blev ju enorm! Något måste vara fel med storlekarna och med det rekommenderade garnet blir den väldigt tung och hängig.

22.05.2021 - 08:36

Christina wrote:

Hej Den här blev inte alls bra (och jag är van och sticka). Fruktansvärt tungt garn och tröjan känns väldigt otymplig. Tar ju ändå rätt lång tid med patent så jag rekommenderar ett annat val av mönster och garn 😟.

31.01.2021 - 15:22

Francesca Bennett wrote:

Hi can i substitute lima mix for karisma in pattern 0-898. Would i use 4 or 4.5 needles and how many balls would i need for an XL pattern (would bis be 42"?)

22.11.2019 - 18:50

Dear Mrs Bennett, since Karisma and Lima are both yarn group B you can use here Lima. Use our yarn converter to check the amount of yarn required for your size. Happy knitting!

25.11.2019 - 08:04

Anita Roos wrote:

Kan inte få till delen avseende falsk raglan o förstår att jag inte är ensam om detta snälla en förklaring som går förstå Anita Roos

10.10.2019 - 08:28

Hej Anita, vi har en bra video som visar hur man gör :)

How to knit the false raglan in DROPS Extra 0-898 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

10.10.2019 - 14:19

May wrote:

Hi, Is there chest measurements for the different sizes? I.e. size M to fit chest xx cm etc? I’m unsure which size pattern to follow in order for it to fit. Many thanks!

17.09.2019 - 03:26

Hi May, You will find a sketch at the bottom of the page with measurements for the different sizes. Happy knitting!

17.09.2019 - 06:47

Susanne Mathiasen wrote:

Hej, Er det muligt at strikke trøjen på rundpind? Eller hvad er årsagen til, at den strikkes frem og tilbage?

25.08.2019 - 13:17

Hej Susanne, Ja du må gerne strikke den på rundpind, da strikkes det patentstrikkede lidt anderledes, du finder instruktionsvideoer på hvordan man gør. God fornøjelse!

10.09.2019 - 14:50