DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
25.00 RON /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Andrele website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 25.00 RON /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Andrele website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side | |
= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side | |
= insert right needle through stitch from previous row/round, knit 1 and slip stitches off the left needle (= English rib stitch) | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
White Water |
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Knitted jumper in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with round saddle shoulders, lace pattern and pouffe sleeves. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS 222-25 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly): To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, count the stitches to be increased/decreased (e.g. 17 stitches), and divide by stitches of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 5) = 3.4. In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 3rd and 4th stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes If decreasing knit in this example alternately approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch and every 3rd and 4th stitch together. INCREASE TIP-1: Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (from wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2: BEFORE MARKER: The stitch is twisted towards the right. Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from round below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop. AFTER MARKER: The stitch is twisted towards the left. Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from round below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop. CAST-OFF TIP: To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. 3rd or every 6th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches). ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Work neck edge in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Work shoulders back and forth separately. Then pick up stitches along shoulders, and work in the round over all stitches, at the same time increase for sleeves and for yoke. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. NECK EDGE: Cast on 90-90-94-106-110-110 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with 2 strands Kid-Silk. Knit 1 round. Then work rib as follows: A.1 over the first 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches, work the first 2 stitches in A.1 (= approx. half back piece), insert a marker here, A.2 over the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert a marker, A.1 over the next 30-30-30-36-36-36 stitches, work the first 2 stitches in A.1 (= front piece), insert a marker here, A.2 over the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= shoulder stitches), insert a marker here, A.1 over the last 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches (= approx. half back piece). Continue in the round like this for 3 cm. Cut the yarn. Now divide the piece for back piece, front piece and saddle shoulders. Slip the first 17-17-17-20-20-20 stitches on a stitch holder (= approx. half back piece), skip the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= saddle shoulder), slip the next 32-32-32-38-38-38 stitches on a stitch holder (= front piece), skip the next 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches (= saddle shoulder), slip the last 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches on a stitch holder (= approx. half back piece). Now work saddle shoulder in each side, separately. SADDLE SHOULDERS: = 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches. Work back and forth over shoulder stitches in one side on circular needle size 3 mm, as follows: Cast on 1 stitch on row (= edge stitch), work the 13-13-15-15-17-17 stitches in pattern as before, at the same time increase all 1 purl stitch to 2 purl stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1 (= 6-6-7-7-8-8 stitches increased), cast on 1 stitch at the end of row (= edge stitch) = 21-21-24-24-27-27 stitches. Now work pattern (1 English rib stitch, purl 2) back and forth until piece measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm from where all 1 purl stitches were increased to 2 purl stitches, adjust so that last row is worked from wrong side. Slip stitches on a stitch holder. Work the other saddle shoulder the same way. Now work front pieces, back piece and shoulder stitch on to same circular needle size 5 mm, at the same time pick up stitches along the sides on saddle shoulders. Work as follows from right side: Begin approx. mid back and knit over the 17-17-17-20-20-20 stitches on half back piece and increase at the same time 5-5-5-5-5-5 stitches evenly – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (= 22-22-22-25-25-25 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the side on saddle shoulder, knit 1 * knit 1 in front and back loop of next stitch, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 18-18-21-21-24-24 times, knit 1 in front and back loop of stitch, knit 1 (= 37-37-43-43-49-49 stitches increased to = 58-58-67-67-76-76 stitches on the saddle shoulder), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the other side of saddle shoulder, knit over the next 32-32-32-38-38-38 stitches on front piece and increase at the same time 9-9-9-9-9-9 stitches evenly (= 41-41-41-47-47-47 stitches), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch on the other saddle shoulder, knit 1, * knit 1 in front and back loop of next stitch, make 1 yarn over *, work from *-* a total of 18-18-21-21-24-24 times, knit 1 in front and back loop of stitch, knit 1 (= 37-37-43-43-49-49 stitches increased to = 58-58-67-67-76-76 stitches on the saddle shoulder), pick up 16-16-16-20-20-20 stitches inside edge stitch along the other side of saddle shoulder, knit over the 15-15-15-18-18-18 stitches on approx. half back piece and increase at the same time 4-4-4-4-4-4 stitches evenly (= 19-19-19-22-22-22 stitches). There are now 262-262-280-308-326-326 stitches on needle. Knit 1 round. YOKE: Insert a marker thread approx. mid back. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Now work pattern and 4 markers in the piece as follows: 1st marker: Work A.3 over the first 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches, work the first 3 stitches in A.3, insert 1st marker in next stitch (= half back piece). 2nd marker: Work in stocking stitch over the next 56-56-65-65-74-74 stitches, insert 2nd marker in next stitch (= right sleeve). 3rd marker: Work A.3 over the next 70-70-70-84-84-84 stitches, work the first 3 stitches in A.3, insert 3rd marker in next stitch (= front piece). 4th marker: Work in stocking stitch over the next 56-56-65-65-74-74 stitches, insert 4th marker in next stitch (= left sleeve). Work A.3 over the last 35-35-35-42-42-42 stitches (= half back piece). Move these 4 markers upwards when working; increase at each of these markers. Continue in the round with pattern like this (stitches with markers are worked in stocking stitch), AT THE SAME TIME on the next round the increases for SLEEVE INCREASE and YOKE INCREASE starts, increase as follows: SLEEVE INCREASE: Work in stocking stitch on sleeves. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 4 stitches for sleeves as follows: Increase AFTER 1st and 3rd marker and increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase stitches on sleeves, and work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. Increase like this every other round 7-10-7-9-6-8 times in total. YOKE INCREASE (applies to front and back piece): Work pattern as before on front pieces and back piece. AT THE SAME TIME on next round increase 4 stitches for yoke as follows: Increase BEFORE 1st and 3rd marker and increase AFTER 2nd and 4th marker – remember INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase on front pieces and back piece, and work the increased stitches in A.3. Increase like this every other round 0-7-7-7-14-21 times in total. When all increases are done there are 290-330-336-372-406-442 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 19-21-23-25-27-29 cm from marker after neck edge. Now divide piece for body and sleeves. Work next round as follows: Work the first 42-45-47-52-59-66 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 81-87-91-101-115-129 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the last 39-42-44-49-56-63 stitches as before (= back piece). Now finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! BODY: = 174-186-198-222-250-278 stitches. Continue in the round with pattern as before, but over the 14-6-12-10-10-10 stitches in each side (i.e. the 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches cast on + 4-0-2-0-0-0 stitches on each side of these stitches) work in stocking stitch. Continue until piece measures 19-19-18-18-17-17 cm from division. Adjust so that the last round is worked as 2nd, 4th, 6th or 8th row in diagram A.3, and work the next round as follows: Work pattern as before, but skip yarn over in every repetition A.3 (= decrease 1 stitch in each repetition A.3), at the same time increase 4-3-6-5-5-5 stitches evenly over the 14-6-12-10-10-10 stitches knit in each side (= 20-24-24-28-32-36 stitches decreased and 8-6-12-10-10-10 stitches increased on round) = 162-168-186-204-228-252 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Now work rib as follows: Work the last 2 stitches in A.1, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains on round, work first stitch in A.1 – English rib stitch in A.1 should fit knit stitches in A.3. Continue rib like this for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over English rib stitches and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from shoulder and down. SLEEVES: Slip the 64-78-77-85-88-92 stitches from stitch holder in one side back on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm. Pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-10-10-10 new stitches under sleeve = 70-84-85-95-98-102 stitches. Work in stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 21-20-19-15-14-13 cm from division - try the jumper on and work until desired length (approx. 9 cm rib remain until finished measurements), decrease 28-42-40-47-47-51 stitches evenly = 42-42-45-48-51-51 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work A.1 in the round for 9 cm. Cast off with knit over English rib stitches and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 30-29-28-24-23-22 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (66)
Christiane Bruguier wrote:
Excusez moi on commence par 2 mailles envers puis les diminutions avec jeté puis on finit par une maille envers ... Je veux simplement savoir si ce diagramme est exact car le dessin avec les trous est décalé. .. Merci.
12.04.2022 - 18:00DROPS Design answered:
Est-ce que la réponse précédente à votre première question a pu vous aider? Sinon n'hésitez pas à nous indiquer à quel niveau vous bloquez encore dans A.3. Bon tricot!
19.04.2022 - 08:55Christiane Bruguier wrote:
Bonjour l'Équipe Est ce normal que le diagramme A3 ne soit pas centré et commence toujours par 1 maille envers puis les diminutions avec 1 jeté pour terminer par 2 mailles envers.... Merci pour la réponse. ..
12.04.2022 - 17:04DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Bruguier, je ne suis pas certaine de bien comprendre ce que vous entendez par "pas centré". A.3 est bien juste ainsi: vous commencez par *1 m env, 1 m end, 2 m env, les 2 m du point ajouré, 1 m env*, et vous répétez de *-* et vous terminez par les 3 premières mailes de A.3 soit 1 m env, 1 m end, 2 m env: le motif commence et se termine de la même façon. Est-ce que ceci peut vous aider?
19.04.2022 - 08:53Christiane Bruguier wrote:
Un grand merci pour votre réponse :effectivement les modèles avec manches marteau que vous me proposez vont beaucoup m'aider car je préfère les emmemchures classiques aux emmemchures top down ou bottom up qui sont moins "élégantes " quant à leurs fermetures sous les aisselles mais ce n'est que mon opinion bien sûr !
01.04.2022 - 08:23Christiane Bruguier wrote:
Bonjour à toute l'Équipe Drops Bravo pour tous vos beaux modèles et belles laines que j'apprécie énormément ! Je voudrais faire votre modèle mais en bottom up jusqu'aux emmemchures et après faire des diminutions classiques pour celles ci mais je ne sais pas comment m'y prendre pareil pour les manches 😟 pouvez vous m'aider SVP merci Cordialement Christiane.
31.03.2022 - 18:59DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Bruguier, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande; vous trouverez toutefois tous nos modèles de pulls tricotés de bas en haut, avec les manches marteau ici, en espérant qu'ils puissent vous aider et vous inspirer. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!
01.04.2022 - 07:50Turid wrote:
Hei, kan du bruke italiensk opplegg/avfelling med Kid silk?
28.01.2022 - 19:19DROPS Design answered:
Hei Turid. Ja, det kan du. Men test det gjerne ut på en prøvelapp først. Litt vanskelig å rekke opp med Kid-Silk om du ikke blir fornøyd. mvh DROPS Design
31.01.2022 - 13:47Maria Encina wrote:
Me gustaría confeccionar este modelo en brushed -alpaca-silk . El cuerpo en el color negro-16 y una manga en beige-05 y la otra en gris-03.. La talla sería la S y necesito ayuda para saber aproximadamente cuanta lana sería necesaria de cada color. Muchas gracias
29.09.2021 - 23:30DROPS Design answered:
Hola Maria, como vas a trabajar con más de un color, es probable que necesites más ovillos que en el patrón, porque para cada manga puede que necesites algo más de un ovillo. Por lo tanto, necesitarías aprox. 150gr de Brushed Alpaca Silk en un color, pero con más de un color necesitarías aprox. 50 gr de los colores de las mangas y 100 gr del color principal (del cuerpo),
06.10.2021 - 23:14Simone wrote:
Hej :) Jeg er ret ny indenfor strikkeverdenen, men nu har jeg givet mig i kast med denne mega fine sweater! Jeg er noget til punkterne: ærmeudtagning/bærestykkeudtagning. Jeg er simpelthen blevet i tvivl, om jeg skal lave 8 udtagninger i én omgang og så lade der være en omgang helt uden udtagninger, eller om jeg skal skiftes mellem at tage ud til henholdsvis ærmerne og bærestykket? (Så der bliver taget 4 masker ud i hver omgang?) Bh. Simone
26.09.2021 - 13:49Ruta wrote:
90 oczek na dekolt to zbyt mało, żebym mogła założyc sweter. Robiłam 1 nitką i nawet mojej córce 4 latka nie przechodzi przez głowę. Czy jeśli zrobię 2 nitkami dekolt będzie miał większy obwód?
16.09.2021 - 13:55DROPS Design answered:
Witaj! W opisie jest, aby przerabiać 2 nitkami włóczki, obwód będzie szerszy. Możesz dodatkowo użyć grubszych drutów. Polecam nabierać oczka w taki sposób, aby brzeg był jeszcze bardziej elastyczny, patrz video TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!
16.09.2021 - 14:47Petra Pörtner wrote:
Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zur Halsblende. In der Anleitung steht im Rippenmuster A1. Meines Erachtens ist das Rippenmuster A2 zu Stricken. L Petra
28.05.2021 - 09:39DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Pörtner, die Maschen der Halskante wird abwechslungsweise in A.1: die 17-20 ersten Maschen vom Halb-Rückenteil + die 30-30-30-36-36-36 M vom Vorderteil + die 15-18 letzten Maschen und A.2 für die Schulter je 13-13-15-15-17-17 M; Viel Spaß beim stricken!
28.05.2021 - 15:14Helene wrote:
Hallo, seit Wochen kreisen meine Gedanken um diesen schönen Sommerpulli. Jetzt haben ich die Zeit gefunden den zu Stricken tu mich aber bei der Wolle schwer. Die empfohlene Wolle sowie die Wolle die am altnativ nehmen kann ist mit Mohair. Ist die Wolle für den Sommer nicht zu kratzig? Merino Wolle für den Sommer finde ich zu dick und Baumwolle kann ich mir nicht vorstellen das die Arme so schönen fallen wie bei dem Foto. Können sie mir da ein Tipp geben? Lg Helene
29.03.2021 - 06:20DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Helene, am besten wenden Sie sich an Ihrem DROPS Laden, dort wird man Ihnen gerne persönliche Hilfe weitergeben - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.04.2021 - 08:43