DROPS Children 49 · Lots of new kid designs!
Product image DROPS Fabel yarn
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.90 $ /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425
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Moroccan colors

Knitted DROPS blanket with domino squares in "Fabel".

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DROPS 145-24

#moroccancolorsblanket

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-219
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 100 x 150 cm / 39½" x 59"

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g color no 911, fun lilac
150 g color no 903, yellow/pink
150 g color no 904, lavender
150 g color no 910, sea mist
150 g color no 912, soft chocolate

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24" or 32") SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 46 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Product image DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.90 $ /50g
DROPS Needles & Hooks
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
COLOR CHANGE: Work every square in different colors in the following order:
Square 1: 911, fun lilac
Square 2: 912, soft chocolate
Square 3: 904, lavender
Square 4: 910, sea mist
Square 5: 903, yellow/pink
Continue this color change on every square worked.

DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains on row, cut the thread and pull it through remaining st.

KNITTING TIP: Always pick up sts from RS.

DIAGRAM:
A.1 shows how the rows on blanket are worked. Squares are marked with the number on row.
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BLANKET:
Beg by casting on sts the entire width of blanket, then work the squares one by one, back and forth in garter st. Change color after every square – READ COLOR CHANGE. Every row with squares is worked from RS, i.e. from right towards left. SEE DIAGRAM.

ROW 1: Cast on 294 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 (80 cm / 32") with lavender. K 1 row from WS. Work next row (from RS) as follows: K 23, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 46 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, finish with slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso and K 23 = 282 sts. Cut the thread.

Then work domino square over the first 47 sts on needle (seen from RS) with fun lilac and circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 (60 cm / 24") – see explanation above! Keep the remaining sts on the needle. Continue to work domino square over the next 47 sts on the needle with soft chocolate. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue like this until 6 small Domino squares have been worked in total (all sts on row have been worked). REMEMBER COLOR CHANGE!

ROW 2: READ KNITTING TIP! Cast on 24 new sts, pick up 23 sts from the side on first square on 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 1st row, 1 st between the second and third square from 1st row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 1st row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 1st row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square on 1st row, 1 st between the fourth and fifth square from 1st row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the sixth square on 1st row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
5 small Domino squares have been worked on 2nd row.

ROW 3: Pick up 23 sts along the side from the first square on 2nd row and 23 sts along the side on the first square from 1st row, pick up 1 st between the first and second square on 1st row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 1st row and 23 sts along the side on the second square from 2nd row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 2nd row, 1 st between the second and third square from 2nd row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 2nd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 2nd row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 2nd row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 2nd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side from the fourth square on 2nd row and 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 1st row, pick up 1 st between the two last squares on on 1st row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the last square from 1st row and 23 sts along the side on the last square from 2nd row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square.
2 large and 2 small Domino squares have been worked on 3rd row.

ROW 4: Cast on 24 new sts, pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the first square on 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the first square on 3rd row, 1 st between the first and second square from 3rd row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 3rd row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 3rd row and pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the last square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the last square on 3rd row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
4 small Domino squares have been worked on 4th row.

ROW 5: Pick up 23 sts along the side on the first square on 4th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the first square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
Pick up 24 sts along the upper other HALF side on the first square from 3rd row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 4th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side from the second square on 4th row and 23 sts along the side on the second square from 3rd row, pick up 1 st between the second and third square from 3rd row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 3rd row and 23 sts along the side on the third square from 4th row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 4th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
Pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 3rd row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 4th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
One large and 4 small Domino squares have been worked on 5th row.

ROW 6: Cast on 24 new sts, pick up 23 sts along the side on the first square on 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 5th row, 1 st between the second and third square from 5th row and pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the third square from 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the third square on 5th row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 5th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square on 5th row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
4 small Domino squares have been worked on 6th row.

ROW 7:
Pick up 23 sts along the side from the first square on 6th row and 23 sts along the side on the first square from 5th row, pick up 1 st between the first two squares on 5th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 5th row and 23 sts along the side on the second square from 6th row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 6th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the third square from 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 24 sts along the upper other HALF side on the third square from 5th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 6th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side from the third square on 6th row and 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 5th row, pick up 1 st between the fourth and fifth square from 5th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 5th row and 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 6th row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square.
2 small and 2 large Domino squares have been worked on 7th row.

Then repeat 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th row upwards until 19 rows have been worked.

ROW 20: Cast on 24 sts, pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the first square on 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the first square on 19th row, 1 st between the first and second square and pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 19th row, 1 st between the second and third square from 19th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 19th row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 19th row and pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the fourth square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the fourth square on 19th row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
5 small Domino squares have been worked on 20th row.

ROW 21: Pick up 23 sts along the side on the first square on 20th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the first square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the first square from 19th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 20th row, 1 st between the second and third square from 20th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 20th row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 20th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square on 20th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 19th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
6 small Domino squares have been worked on 21st row.

Fasten the loose tails.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Diagram measurements for DROPS 145-24
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (74)

country flag Anastasia wrote:

YES! Now I understand. Great video. THANK YOU! Now I'm going to be a happy knitter,

26.08.2019 - 16:17

country flag Anastasia wrote:

Maybe this crude illustration will clarify my problem. Working yarn on left ends up on wrong side of needle for doing next row, which is K all sts. What am I not understanding? @ @ Ball of yarn \ / Working yarn \ / \ /\ /\ / Tops of 1st, last squares Row 1 \/ \/ Bottoms of 1st, last squares, R 1

26.08.2019 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anastasia, i'm afraid I don't get what you mean here. The last square on row 2 is the one at the very left side of the row in chart: pick up sts along the left side on top of domino 1 + cast on the new stitches at the end of the picking up sts (= from RS). This video shows from time code 12:15 how to pick up sts + cast on sts for the last domino on the left side (seen from RS). Happy knitting!

26.08.2019 - 13:59

country flag Anastasia wrote:

When ending a row of domino squares, you pick up and cast on forca total of 47 sts. But then isn\'t your working yarn going to be on the wrong side (the left) for knitting across all sts. for Row 1 of the last domino square?

24.08.2019 - 19:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anastasia, you pick up all stitches from RS, so at the end of row 2 for example you pick up 23 sts along the left side of last domino on row 1 then cast on 24 stitches on needle = 47 sts and now work the domino as before. (= the opposite of 1st square on row where you have to first cast on then pick up). Happy knitting!

26.08.2019 - 08:49

country flag Fran Hoffman wrote:

Never mind - I found them!

18.04.2019 - 18:10

country flag Fran Hoffman wrote:

I can't find the yarn in the recommended colors. Do you have substitutes with directions?

18.04.2019 - 17:59

country flag Iohmann Katharina wrote:

Warum fehlt das Diagramm Drops 154-24

10.09.2018 - 13:38

DROPS Design answered:

Lieber Katharina. Wir haben derzeit technische Probleme mit unserer Website, daher koennen Diagramme und Bilder nicht korrekt geladen werden. Wir arbeiten jedoch daran, das Problem zu beheben und hoffen, dass die Website bald wieder funktional sein wird. Bitte besuchen Sie unsere Twitter- oder Facebook-Seiten für Updates. Wir entschuldigen uns für die Unannehmlichkeiten

10.09.2018 - 14:52

country flag Helen Bason wrote:

When printing out the pattern the schematic for the order of construction prints with the top and the bottom with the middle of the schematic missing. for example rows 1-6 then 17-21 all other rows are missing. Tried printing this page three times with the same result each time.

13.08.2017 - 12:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Helen, it seems to be a problem of your printer, since it comes out normally in our printer. You should reconfigure your printer and then check if it works.

23.08.2017 - 17:42

country flag Charo wrote:

Hola No entiendo una cosa: la primera hilera de cada cuadrado se teje por el revés, sin embargo dicen que cada cuadrado se teje por el lado derecho, es decir, de derecha a izquierda Gracias

28.05.2015 - 08:22

country flag Mary Fisher wrote:

This is an ideal pattern for using up odd leftover balls of wool in a creative way, thank you!

19.09.2014 - 10:50

Fati wrote:

Woncerful

05.04.2013 - 21:30

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Moroccan colors

#moroccancolorsblanket

Moroccan colors / DROPS 145-24 - Knitted DROPS blanket with domino squares in Fabel.
Moroccan colors / DROPS 145-24 - Knitted DROPS blanket with domino squares in Fabel.

Knitted DROPS blanket with domino squares in "Fabel".

DROPS 145-24
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-219
Yarn group A
-----------------------------------------------------------
Measurements: approx. 100 x 150 cm / 39½" x 59"

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g color no 911, fun lilac
150 g color no 903, yellow/pink
150 g color no 904, lavender
150 g color no 910, sea mist
150 g color no 912, soft chocolate

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24" or 32") SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 46 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".

COLOR CHANGE: Work every square in different colors in the following order:
Square 1: 911, fun lilac
Square 2: 912, soft chocolate
Square 3: 904, lavender
Square 4: 910, sea mist
Square 5: 903, yellow/pink
Continue this color change on every square worked.

DOMINO SQUARE:
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains on row, cut the thread and pull it through remaining st.

KNITTING TIP: Always pick up sts from RS.

DIAGRAM:
A.1 shows how the rows on blanket are worked. Squares are marked with the number on row.
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BLANKET:
Beg by casting on sts the entire width of blanket, then work the squares one by one, back and forth in garter st. Change color after every square – READ COLOR CHANGE. Every row with squares is worked from RS, i.e. from right towards left. SEE DIAGRAM.

ROW 1: Cast on 294 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 (80 cm / 32") with lavender. K 1 row from WS. Work next row (from RS) as follows: K 23, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 46 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, finish with slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso and K 23 = 282 sts. Cut the thread.

Then work domino square over the first 47 sts on needle (seen from RS) with fun lilac and circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 (60 cm / 24") – see explanation above! Keep the remaining sts on the needle. Continue to work domino square over the next 47 sts on the needle with soft chocolate. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue like this until 6 small Domino squares have been worked in total (all sts on row have been worked). REMEMBER COLOR CHANGE!

ROW 2: READ KNITTING TIP! Cast on 24 new sts, pick up 23 sts from the side on first square on 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 1st row, 1 st between the second and third square from 1st row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 1st row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 1st row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square on 1st row, 1 st between the fourth and fifth square from 1st row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 1st row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the sixth square on 1st row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
5 small Domino squares have been worked on 2nd row.

ROW 3: Pick up 23 sts along the side from the first square on 2nd row and 23 sts along the side on the first square from 1st row, pick up 1 st between the first and second square on 1st row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 1st row and 23 sts along the side on the second square from 2nd row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 2nd row, 1 st between the second and third square from 2nd row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 2nd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 2nd row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 2nd row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 2nd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side from the fourth square on 2nd row and 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 1st row, pick up 1 st between the two last squares on on 1st row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the last square from 1st row and 23 sts along the side on the last square from 2nd row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square.
2 large and 2 small Domino squares have been worked on 3rd row.

ROW 4: Cast on 24 new sts, pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the first square on 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the first square on 3rd row, 1 st between the first and second square from 3rd row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 3rd row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 3rd row and pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the last square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the last square on 3rd row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
4 small Domino squares have been worked on 4th row.

ROW 5: Pick up 23 sts along the side on the first square on 4th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the first square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
Pick up 24 sts along the upper other HALF side on the first square from 3rd row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 4th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side from the second square on 4th row and 23 sts along the side on the second square from 3rd row, pick up 1 st between the second and third square from 3rd row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 3rd row and 23 sts along the side on the third square from 4th row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 4th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 3rd row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
Pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 3rd row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 4th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
One large and 4 small Domino squares have been worked on 5th row.

ROW 6: Cast on 24 new sts, pick up 23 sts along the side on the first square on 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 5th row, 1 st between the second and third square from 5th row and pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the third square from 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the third square on 5th row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 5th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square on 5th row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
4 small Domino squares have been worked on 6th row.

ROW 7:
Pick up 23 sts along the side from the first square on 6th row and 23 sts along the side on the first square from 5th row, pick up 1 st between the first two squares on 5th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 5th row and 23 sts along the side on the second square from 6th row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 6th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the third square from 5th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 24 sts along the upper other HALF side on the third square from 5th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 6th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side from the third square on 6th row and 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 5th row, pick up 1 st between the fourth and fifth square from 5th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 5th row and 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 6th row = 93 sts. Knit a Domino square.
2 small and 2 large Domino squares have been worked on 7th row.

Then repeat 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th row upwards until 19 rows have been worked.

ROW 20: Cast on 24 sts, pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the first square on 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the first square on 19th row, 1 st between the first and second square and pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 19th row, 1 st between the second and third square from 19th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 19th row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 19th row and pick up 23 sts along the bottom HALF side on the fourth square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the bottom other HALF side on the fourth square on 19th row, cast on 24 new sts = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
5 small Domino squares have been worked on 20th row.

ROW 21: Pick up 23 sts along the side on the first square on 20th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the first square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the first square from 19th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the second square on 20th row, 1 st between the second and third square from 20th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the third square on 20th row, 1 st between the third and fourth square from 20th row and pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 23 sts along the side on the fourth square on 20th row, pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 19th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square. Pick up 24 sts along the upper HALF side on the fourth square from 19th row, pick up 23 sts along the side on the fifth square from 20th row = 47 sts. Knit a Domino square.
6 small Domino squares have been worked on 21st row.

Fasten the loose tails.
Diagram for DROPS 145-24

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