![]() |
DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton |
2.15 € /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
![]() |
DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton 2.15 € /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
![]() |
= 1 tr in tr/dc |
![]() |
= 1 tr around ch/ch-space |
![]() |
= 5 ch - READ CROCHET INFO! |
![]() |
= 1 ch |
![]() |
= 1 dc |
![]() |
= illustration show back on top and how to thread the ties |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Mandarina |
|||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
![]() |
||||||||||||||||||
Crochet DROPS top with trebles, lace pattern and ties at the back, worked top down in ”Muskat”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 170-16 |
|||||||||||||||||||
CROCHET INFO: At beg of every row with tr work 5 ch to turn with. These 5 ch do not replace first tr. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. ---------------------------------------------------------- TOP: Worked back and forth, top down. Work 42-44-44-47-47-49 loose ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 4 mm with Muskat. Turn and work as follows: Work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook (= 1 dc + 1 ch to turn with), work 1 dc in each of the next 2-4-4-2-2-4 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 6-6-6-7-7-7 more times, work 1 dc in each of the remaining 2 ch = 33-35-35-37-37-39 dc. Turn and work pattern as follows: Work A.1 over the first 11 dc, A.2 (= 2 dc) 6-7-7-8-8-9 times in width, A.3 over the remaining 10 dc - READ CROCHET TIP! REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When diagram A.1 to A.3 have been worked vertically, continue pattern and inc the same way until 13-14-14-15-16-17 rows have been worked in total. There are now 71-77-77-81-85-85 tr/ch on row. Inc in each side of A.1 and A.3 is now done but lace pattern continue to decrease inwards into a tip mid front and work as follows: Work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (incl 5 ch to turn with), turn and work as follows: Work 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the next 1-4-6-3-3-6 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-6-7-8 more times, continue pattern as before over the 71-77-77-81-85-85 tr, then work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (incl 5 ch to turn with). Turn and work as follows: Work 1 tr in 6th ch from hook, then work 1 tr in each of the next 1-4-6-3-3-6 ch, * skip 1 ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 4 tr *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-6-7-8 more times, continue pattern as before over the 71-77-77-81-85-85 tr, then work 1 tr in each of the remaining tr on row = 107-119-131-145-157-171 sts tr/ch. Continue with 1 tr in every tr and continue to dec lace pattern mid front into a tip. When 4 ch-spaces remain, finish pattern as shown in diagram A.4. Then work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm from cast-on edge mid front. Fasten off. ASSEMBLY: Fold the outermost 2 cm in each side in on the back of top and sew small stitches through both layers to make a tunnel to thread the tie through. TIE: Work 1 loose tie as follows: Work ch with Muskat on hook size 4 mm until the tie measures 140-150-160-170-180-190 cm, turn and work 1 sl st in every ch but make sure that the sl sts are not worked tighter than ch. Fasten off. Work another tie the same way. Beg from RS and thread one of the end on tie through outermost hole, around tr and through the other hole (= 2 tie ends out towards RS). Adjust tie so that ends are the same length, then thread the 2 ends through loop on WS and tighten. Repeat in the other side. Then place ties in a cross on the back before threading them through curtain hem - see illustration. Fasten top by making a knot. |
|||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11428 patterns - 11428 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (70)
Rainbow wrote:
Thanks for helping. Is there a video tht shows how to do the below? "sew small stitches through both layers to make a tunnel to thread the tie through." Regards Rainbow
06.03.2016 - 08:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbow, there is no such video yet but your request has been added to our list - while it comes, I'll try to reword you how to process: fold 2 cm in each side towards WS (see also dotted line in chart) and sew small sts along this dotted line to keep the edge on place and you get a tunnel casing where you can then thread the string through - see chart at the very bottom, with top from WS and string through the tunnel casings on each side. Happy crocheting!
07.03.2016 - 10:08Rainbow wrote:
Then work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½"-13½" from cast-on edge mid front. Cast-on edge mid front means from beginning top?? Regards Rainbow
05.03.2016 - 06:50DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbow, yes you measure from cast-on edge, ie from top edge of front piece, this is the total length of top (see also measurement chart - in cm). Happy crocheting!
05.03.2016 - 18:09Rainbow wrote:
Continue with 1 dc in every dc and continue to dec lace pattern mid front into a tip. don't get this, could you please explain?? Thanks, Rainbow
02.03.2016 - 12:45DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Rainbow, you continue working A.1, A.2 and A.3 so that lace pattern dec as shown in A.1 and A.3. When there are only 4 ch-spaces remaining at the tip, work then diagram A.4. Happy crocheting!
02.03.2016 - 15:00Rainbow wrote:
Work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (includes 5 ch to turn with), turn and work as follows: Work 1 dc in 6th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 1-4-6-3-3-6 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-6-7-8 more times, continue pattern as before over the 71-77-77-81-85-85 dc, then work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (includes 5 ch to turn with). Means?? From right side once and left side once??
01.03.2016 - 09:50DROPS Design answered:
Dear Rainbow, yes you crochet 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch on one side, turn and work as explained to the end of row, then at the end of this row, crochet 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch, turn and work next row. You have now inc on both sides of top. Happy crocheting!
01.03.2016 - 13:29Rainbow wrote:
I did the A.1, A.2 & A.3 but I don't understand what next.
29.02.2016 - 19:11DROPS Design answered:
Dear Rainbow, you will now cast on new chains on each side (see video below), ie at the end of the last row you have worked + at the end of next row by crocheting 27-57 ch (see size), then working with dc and continue pattern in the middle of piece. Happy crocheting!
01.03.2016 - 08:58Rainbow wrote:
But lace pattern continue to decrease inwards into a tip mid front and work as follows: Work 27-30-37-44-49-57 ch (includes 5 ch to turn with), turn and work as follows: Work 1 dc in 6th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 1-4-6-3-3-6 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 dc in each of the next 4 dc *, Thanks, Rainbow
29.02.2016 - 17:19DROPS Design answered:
Dear Rainbow, the video below shows how to work A.1, A.2 and A.3 (we work only A.2 2 times in width in the video). Happy crocheting!
29.02.2016 - 17:43Venligst besvar mit spørgsmål afsendt den 1. februar. Pft. Lindie
04.02.2016 - 08:29DROPS Design answered:
Hej igen Lindie, har du set videoen:
DROPS Crocheting Tutorial: How to work a top with trebles and lace pattern from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.
26.02.2016 - 12:08Kære jer, Denne opskrift volder mig lidt udfordringer. Skal nu begynde forfra for 3. gang. Kan ikke forstå diagrammet. Der er 33 m når A.1-A.3 påbegyndes. Men der beskrives kun de 23 af maskerne. Hvordan hækler jeg de 10 i midten? På forhånd tak Mh Lindie
01.02.2016 - 11:21DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lindie. Du har 33 m og haekler: A.1 = 11 m, saa gentager du A.2 6 gange (= 12 m) og slutter af med A.3 = 10 m = 33 m haeklet
11.02.2016 - 15:25Could you please put the sizes measurements? Size S - M - L - XL and etc are for which size of bust?
26.01.2016 - 03:52DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs De Leon, you will find at the bottom of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm - taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Happy crocheting!
26.01.2016 - 10:32I love this! So original
10.12.2015 - 11:22