Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K | |
= P | |
= put 1 st on a cable needle in front of the work, knit 1, knit 1 from the cable needle | |
= put 3 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle | |
= put 3 sts on a cable needle behind the work, knit 3, knit 3 from the cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS Baby 5-10 |
||||||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||||
Cardigan and socks in Karisma or Cotton Merino with cables.
DROPS Baby 5-10 |
||||||||||||||||
CARDIGAN Gauge: 21 sts and 28 rows on larger needles in Pattern 5 = 10 x 10 cm Pattern: See chart. One chart equals one repeat of the pattern. The pattern is seen from the right side. BODY Cast on 120-132-144 (168-176-184) sts on smaller circular needles. Knit Pattern 1 (1st row is the right side) with 1 edge st on each side at the center front not worked in pattern for 4-4-4 (5-5-5) cm . Then change to needle size 3,5 and work pattern as follows: Size 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months: 1 edge st, 4 sts of Pattern 5, purl 1, Pattern 4, purl 1, 83-95-107 sts of Pattern 5, purl 1, Pattern 4, purl 1, 4 sts of Pattern 5, 1 edge st and at the same time inc 1 st at the center back for a total of 121-133-145 sts. Size 2 - 3/4 - 5/6 years: 1 edge st, 4 sts of Pattern 5, purl 1, Pattern 4, purl 1, 5 sts of Pattern 5, purl 1, Pattern 3, purl 1, 107-115-123 sts of Pattern 5, purl 1, Pattern 2, purl 1, 5 sts of Pattern 5, purl 1, Pattern 4, purl 1, 4 sts of Pattern 5, 1 edge st and at the same time inc 3 sts evenly distributed on the row for a total of 171-179-187 sts. When the work measures 18-19-22 (26-27-29) cm , divide it as follows: 33-36-39 (47-49-51) sts for the front, 55-61-67 (77-81-85) sts for the back, 33-36-39 (47-49-51) sts for the front. Knit the rest of each part separately from this point. Front: 33-36-39 (47-49-51) sts. Work in pattern until the work measures 25-27-31 (36-40-43) cm . Keeping in pattern, bind off at the neck edge every other row: 9-10-11 (12-14-15) sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times. Bind off when the work measures 28-30-34 (39-43-46) cm and at the same time, on the 3 largest sizes, dec 3 sts evenly distributed over Pattern 3 on the next to last row. Back: 55-61-67 (77-81-85) sts. When the work measures 27-29-33 (38-42-45) cm , bind off the center 17-19-21 (23-27-29) sts for the neck. Bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row. Bind off the remaining 17-19-21 (25-25-26) sts for the shoulder when the work measures 28-30-34 (39-43-46) cm . Sleeves: Cast on 40-44-44 (48-48-52) sts on smaller double pointed needles. Join, being careful not to twist the sts. Place a marker at the join and knit Pattern 1 for 4-4-5 (5-5-5) cm . Change to larger double pointed needles and knit pattern over the 1st row as follows: 14-15-16 (17-17-19) sts on Pattern 5, purl 1, Pattern 4, purl 1, 14-15-16 (17-17-19) sts of Pattern 5 and at the same time inc 2-0-2 (0-0-0) sts evenly distributed on the 1st row. 42-44-46 (48-48-52) sts. At the same time, after Pattern 1 inc 1 st on each side of the marker 3-4-5 (6-13-13) times: Sizes 1/3 + 12/18 months: every 7th row. Size 6/9 months: every 8th row. Size 2 years: every 6th row. Size 3/4 years: alternately every 3rd and 4th row. Size 5/6 years: alternately every 4th and 5th row. = 48-52-56 (60-74-78) sts. When the work measures 13-17-19 (20-24-28) cm , bind off 2 sts on each side of the marker and knit the rest back and forth on the needles. Bind off on each side for sleeve caps every other row 5-5-6 (7-9-10) sts 2 times, 4-6-6 (6-9-9) sts 1 time. 16-16-16 (16-16-16) sts. Continue to knit the remaining sts in pattern as before for 7.5-8.5-9.5 (11.5-11.5-12) cm more (this is a strip for a saddle shoulder). Bind off. Assembly: Sew on the sleeves. Sew the shoulder seams from the body to Pattern 4 from the sleeve. Sew the sleeves together at the center back. Pick up approx. 63-67-79 (91-99-107) sts (divisible by 4 sts + 2 sts + 1 edge st against the neck) along the left front on smaller needles and knit Pattern 1 for 2.5 cm . Bind off. Repeat along the right front, but after 1 cm make 5-6 buttonholes evenly distributed on the row (1 buttonhole = bind off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts over the bound-off sts on the next row). Pick up approx. 110-122 sts around the neck (divisible by 4 sts + 2 sts) on smaller needles and purl 1 row (seen from the right side) and then knit Pattern 1 (1st row = right side) back and forth on the needles for 2 cm , knit 2 rows stockinette st and bind off. Sew on buttons. ________________________________________ SOCKS Sock's foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15-17) cm DROPS 2.5 mm and 3.5 mm double pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge. Gauge: 21 sts and 28 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm Rib: * knit 1, purl 1 *. Repeat from * - *. SOCKS Cast on 46-48-50 (52-54-56) sts on smaller double pointed needles. Join, being careful not to twist the sts. Place a marker at the join and knit 12-13-13 (13-14-14) cm in rib. Change to larger double pointed needles. Continue with rib and dec 12-14-14 (16-18-18) sts evenly distributed on the first row. 34-34-36 (36-36-38) sts. If you want an eyelet border to pull a strand through afterwards knit the next row as follows: * K 2 tog, yarn over *; this is not necessary on larger sizes. Continue with the heel as follows: Heel: Knit 3-3.5-4 (4.5-5-5) cm in stockinette st back and forth over 18 sts for the heel flap. Turn the heel starting with a right side row: Row 1: K 10 sts, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn. Row 2: sl 1, P 4, P 2 tog, P 1, turn. Row 3: sl 1, K 5, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn. Row 4: sl 1, P 6, P 2 tog, P 1, turn. Row 5: sl 1, K 7, K 2 tog into back of st, K 1, turn. Row 6: sl 1, P 8, P 2 tog, P 1, turn. Row 7: K 2 tog, K 8, K 2 tog into back of st. = 10 sts on needles. Pick up 6-7-8 (9-10-10) sts along each instep and put all sts on double pointed needles. 38-40-44 (46-48-50) sts. Dec 1 st on each side of the uppermost 18-18-20 (20-20-22) sts every row 3-4-5 (6-7-7) times. 32-32-34 (34-34-36) sts. When the foot measures 7-8-9 (10-11-13) cm (from the beginning of the heel turn), decrease for the toe. Place a marker on each side and dec 1 st on each side of the markers (4 bind-offs in all per row) 6-6-7 (7-7-7) times an alternately every and every other row. 8-8-6 (6-6-8) sts. Pull the strand doubled through the last sts and sew. |
||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
||||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11518 patterns translated into English (UK/cm). 11518
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (30)
Marja wrote:
Dag mevrouw/meneer Als ik baby patroon 5-10 vergelijk met 6-1 zijn er grote verschillen in de maten en het aantal te meerderen steken. Patroon 6-1 wil ik maken. 12/18 mnd 146 steken opzetten en na de boord 32 steken meerderen!!! Bij patroon 5-10 144 steken opzetten voor het lijf en NIET meerderen. Hoe kan dat??? hartelijke groet Marja
29.10.2014 - 12:53DROPS Design answered:
U vergelijkt twee verschillende modellen, met elk hun eigen pasvorm. Het aantal steken is afgestemd op het garen, de gebruikte naalden en de kabelpatronen - verschillende soorten structuurpatronen vragen om verschillende aantallen steken om tot het juiste resultaat te komen.
31.10.2014 - 08:39MILET Brigitte wrote:
Rabattre de chaque côté pour le haut de la manche à tous les 2 rangs 5-5-6 (7-9-10) mailles 2 fois, 4-6-6 (6-9-9) mailles 1 foix. 16-16-16 (16-16-16) mailles. correction : 1 foix en "1 fois" dans le paragraphe ci-dessus, répartisses en "répartissez" Etablissez le patron en "Suivez le patron" Que signifie ? : 16-16-16 (16-16-16) mailles. Texte tout seul dans le paragraphe ci-dessus.
15.06.2014 - 14:52DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Milet, et merci pour les fautes de frappe qui ont été corrigées. On rabat pour l'arrondi de la manche tous les 2 rangs de chaque côté: 2 x 5-5-6 (7-9-10) m, 1 fois 4-6-6 (6-9-9) m et 1 fois 16 m pour toutes les tailles, puis on continue pendant 7.5-12 cm (cf taille) avant de rabattre toutes les mailles. Bon tricot!
16.06.2014 - 09:01Birthe Green wrote:
Drops nr. 5 modell nr. U-027-by. Jakke med snoninger. Jeg vil mene, der er fejl i opskriften. M.2, M´.3 og M.4 skal vel være glatstrikning frem og tilbage - i stedet for ret. På den store størrelse bliver der 2 masker for meget, når der tages 3 masker ud efter ribben forneden.
25.11.2013 - 10:05Gina Van Keulen wrote:
Op de foto is naast de V kabel direct naast de sluiting nog een kabel te zien. Deze komt niet terug in be schrijving!
25.03.2013 - 12:25DROPS Design answered:
Het patroon klopt. Je begint naast het middenvoor (de knopen) met patroon M.5 (structuur), daarna M.4 = de V-kabel zoals u het noemt, patroon M.5 nogmaals, dan M.3 (= 1 kabel - zie teltekening) en zo voort.
27.03.2013 - 09:59Tove wrote:
Jeg kan ikke få indtagningen til ærmetop til at passe, jeg er ved at strikke størrelse 2 år, men det ser forkert ud i alle størrelser. Trøjen bliver ellers meget fin.
27.02.2013 - 15:28DROPS Design answered:
Jo men det passer. Overholder du strikkefastheden ?
12.03.2013 - 10:28Lena Sanden wrote:
Ups! ja det fandt jeg også ud af. TAK for hurtigt svar!Glæder mig til at få trøjen færdig.
26.01.2013 - 10:44Lena Sanden wrote:
Hvor er mønster 4? Jeg synes kun jeg kan se mønster 1, 2, 3 og 5. :-) Ellers en rigtig fin trøje!
25.01.2013 - 09:42DROPS Design answered:
Mönster M.4 er M.2 og M.3 til sammen (se nederst)
25.01.2013 - 11:41Marianne wrote:
Mønsteret har feil antall masker på str 12/18 mndr. Hvis man regner ut de maskene som utgjør mønsterkombinasjonen i følge oppskrift, kommer man frem til 133 masker, som er størrelsen mindre. Selv ved å legge inn en flette til i hver side av forstykket, blir ikke maskeantallet riktig. Det må enten legges inn en flette i hver side av forstykket til tillegg til at antallet masker i perlestrikk til bakstykket må økes, eller man må bare øke antallet masker perlestrikk i bakstykket.
30.10.2012 - 13:12DROPS Design wrote:
The translations for the Diagrams for all Garnstudio patterns are included within the text of the Pattern itself. If you look you will find lines starting with an = sign. These are the translations, and they are given in the same vertical order as the chart symbols within the diagram.
12.06.2009 - 18:47Connie wrote:
The diagram chart for size 2years, is NOT in American???? Very confusing! Thank you
12.06.2009 - 18:27