Pink Peony Cardigan |
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Knitted jacket for children in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders, lace pattern and short sleeves. Sizes 3-14 years.
DROPS Baby & Children 38-22 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Find your size in the diagrams. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 96 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 19) = 4.5. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 4th and 5th stitch. Do not increase on the bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the RIGHT SIDE): BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop. AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop. INCREASE TIP-3 (for saddle shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the WRONG SIDE): BEFORE MARKER: The new stitch twists to the right. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the front strand and purl in the back loop. AFTER MARKER: The new stitch twists to the left. Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round, pick up the back strand and purl in the front loop. BUTTONHOLES: Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the neck is finished (transition between neck and yoke). Then work the other 4-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 7-6-6½-6-6-6½ cm between each one. CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 6th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid-front and top down. Stitches are increased for the shoulders, then for the sleeves and finally for the yoke. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. NECK: Cast on 96-100-104-104-108-112 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid-front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-19-23-23-23-23 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 115-119-127-127-131-135 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and the bands worked in garter stitch). Change to circular needle size 3 mm. YOKE: Insert a marker after the band at the beginning of the row – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE! In addition, insert 4 other markers as described below – without working the stitches and each marker inserted between 2 stitches. The markers should be of a different colour to the marker on the neck and are used when increasing. Marker 1: Count 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches (= front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 2: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 3: Count 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches from marker 2 (= back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch. Marker 4: Count 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch. There are 23-24-23-23-24-25 stitches left on the front piece after marker 4. Allow the 4 markers to follow your work onwards. INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS: Read the whole of the next section before continuing! Continue working 5 band stitches on each side, A.2 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.3 over the next 37-39-37-37-39-41 stitches, stocking stitch over the next 16-16-22-22-22-22 stitches, A.4 over the next 18-19-18-18-19-20 stitches. A.1 shows 1 repeat of the pattern. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows: Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-2. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces, the number of sleeve stitches remains the same. On the next row from the wrong side increase for the shoulders as follows: Increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-3. The increases are different on the right and wrong sides, so the stitches lie neatly. Continue the pattern and increase like this every row (i.e. both from the right and wrong side) a total of 12-16-20-22-24-26 times = 163-183-207-215-227-239 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! The increased stitches are worked into A.1, make sure that A.1 fits over the stitches from A.2, A.3 and A.4. After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 4-5-6-7-8-9 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as described below. INCREASES FOR SLEEVES: Continue with stocking stitch, pattern as before and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, increase 4 stitches as follows: Increase 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4. You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. The increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 13-17-15-16-18-19 times = 215-251-267-279-299-315 stitches. The piece measures approx. 12-16-15-17-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. INCREASES FOR YOKE: Now increase 1 stitch on each side of all 4 markers as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before markers 1 and 3, increase 1 stitch before the marker, work 1 stitch, move the marker to the right needle and increase 1 stitch after the marker. Work to markers 2 and 4, increase 1 stitch before the marker, move the marker to the right needle, work 1 stitch and increase 1 stitch after the marker (= 8 stitches increased). You are now increasing on both the front and back pieces and on the sleeves. The increased stitches are worked into A.1 on the back/front pieces and in stocking stitch on the sleeves. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 5-2-2-1-0-0 times = 255-267-283-287-299-315 stitches. When all the increases are finished, the piece measures approx. 15-17-17-18-19-21 cm from the marker on the neck. If the piece is shorter than this, continue working without further increases to the correct length. Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on the next row as follows: Work the first 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (front piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work 71-75-81-83-87-93 stitches (= back piece), place the next 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches, work the last 40-42-45-46-48-51 stitches (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE. BODY: = 167-175-187-195-203-215 stitches. Work A.1 back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side; the stitches which do not fit into A.1 in the sides are worked in stocking stitch. Continue working until the piece measures 12-12-15-16-17-17 cm from the division. There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 row from the right side, where you increase 36-36-36-40-44-44 stitches evenly spaced = 203-211-223-235-247-259 stitches. NOTE: You increase stitches here to prevent the rib being tight. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 34-36-40-42-44-46 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVES: Place the 52-54-56-56-58-60 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 60-62-64-66-68-70 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. Continue working until the sleeve measures 5-6-10-13-15-17 cm from the division, There is approx. 4 cm left to finished length; try the jacket on and continue to desired length. Knit 1 round where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced = 56-58-60-62-64-66 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 9-10-14-17-19-21 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the buttons onto the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (33)
Buonasera, nel paragrafo SPRONE dite di inserire i segnapunti senza lavorare le maglie, ma così facendo non posso poi lavorare il rovescio, perché il filo rimane dalla parte opposta! Come devo fare? Inoltre quali sono i segnapunti che devono essere di colore diverso? il 2 e il 4? Grazie per la risposta, gentilissimi! Buon lavoro!
10.09.2021 - 22:32DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lelletta, deve spostare le maglie e inserire i segnapunti, poi riportare le maglie sul ferro di sinistra e proseguire il lavoro. Questi 4 segnapunti devono essere di colore diverso da quelli inseriti in precedenza. Buon lavoro!
11.09.2021 - 00:27Hvor skal der strikkes knaphuller? Det er ikke nævnt i opskriften.
04.08.2021 - 10:07DROPS Design answered:
Hej Karin, jo forklaringen til knaphuller finder du lige ovenfor der hvor du starter arbejdet. det står KNAPHUL :)
04.08.2021 - 10:14Dopo aumenti per la spalla a sella, eseguendo gli aumenti per le maniche, nella taglia 5/6 anni, i due davanti si lavorano esclusivamente su 24 punti ciascuno prima di arrivare allo sprone? Grazie
17.07.2021 - 15:32DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Maria, durante gli aumenti per le maniche il numero delle maglie del davanti/dietro rimane lo stesso, gli aumenti sono solo sulle maniche. Buon lavoro!
23.07.2021 - 14:34Je suis en train de réaliser la veste pour ma petite Chloe. Je tiens à fe liciter la styliste ainsi que les concepteurs de la réalisation et des explications . Bravo ! ,
22.05.2021 - 12:53Al punto... "Aumentare una maglia prima dei segnapunti 1 e 3 " , si intende sul diritto totale 2 aumenti? E una maglia dopo i segnapunti 2 e 4 sul rovescio totale 2 aumenti? Grazie
20.05.2021 - 14:28DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Benedetta, deve aumentare come indicato sullo stesso ferro. Buon lavoro!
20.05.2021 - 21:48Eseguendo le spalle a sella, i due davanti si lavorano separatamente? E asimmetrici? Grazie
17.05.2021 - 13:37DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Piera, il cardigan è lavorato in un pezzo unico, dall'alto in basso. Buon lavoro!
17.05.2021 - 22:29Buongiorno, ho seguito le Vs. indicazioni e sono arrivata al "CORPO" con n. 167 maglie incluse i bordi (n. 10 maglie). rimanendo con 157 maglie per i davanti e dietro, non mi trovo più con i diagrammi, perchè 157 non è suddivisibile per 14 (A1=14 m). Non riesco a capire dov4e ho sbagliato. Ringrazio e saluto
16.05.2021 - 14:40DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Margherita, deve lavorare a maglia rasata le maglie laterali che non rientrano nei bordi. Buon lavoro!
17.05.2021 - 22:25Ist bei dem Strickmuster eine Randmasche dabei, oder beginnt man direkt mit dem Muster.
14.05.2021 - 22:09DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Schmolkr, es sind hier keine Randmaschen, alle Maschen werden gestrickt, wie in der Anleitung erklärt (glatt rechts, Muster und 5 Blende-Maschen krausrechts). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
17.05.2021 - 08:41Buonasera, anch'io vorrei fare le maniche lunghe in questo modello. Oltre ad allungare la lunghezza delle maniche, come avete già scritto nella precedente risposta, come ci si deve comportare per le diminuzioni? È necessario farne qualcuna in più? Grazie
09.05.2021 - 18:55DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Eleonora, dal momento che è un modello lavorato dall'alto in basso può provare mano a mano il lavoro e valutare se necessita di ulteriori diminuzioni. Buon lavoro!
09.05.2021 - 19:19Wunderschönes Teil! Und ich liebe Strickstücke aus einem Stück, weil ich immer Probleme habe, Ärmel nachträglich so einzusetzen, dass die Naht elastisch genug ist. ABER: Die Anleitung ist doch SEHR anspruchsvoll. Ich darf mich, glaube ich, als erfahrene Strickerin bezeichnen, aber hier brauchte ich Hochkonzentration: Gleichzeitig auf komplizierte Zunahmen, Muster, Knopflöcher und Blenden achten erfordert Einiges. Das Ergebnis wird aber glaube ich wunderschön!
06.05.2021 - 09:48