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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= K 2 tog |
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= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Fresh Lemonade |
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Knitted DROPS fitted top, worked top down with raglan and lace pattern in “BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: XS - XXL.
DROPS 169-36 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. NOTE: Choose diagram for correct size. RAGLAN: Inc by making 1 YO on each side of st with marker in (= 2 sts inc). On next round K the YOs to make holes. DECREASE TIP (applies to sides of body): Dec on each side of A.2. Beg 2 sts before A.2, K 2 tog, work A.2 (= 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec). INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body): Inc on each side of A.2. Beg 1 st before A.2, make 1 YO, K 1 sts, A.2 and K 1 (= 17-17-19-19-21-21 sts), make 1 YO (= 2 sts inc). On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes. ---------------------------------------------------------- TOP: The piece is worked top down. Work yoke at the front and back back and forth separately until ridges are done. Then put pieces tog and work in the round until finished measurements. YOKE AT THE FRONT: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 96-96-102-102-112-114 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with BabyAlpaca Silk. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Insert 1 marker in piece the 24th-24th-26th-26th-28th-28th st in from each side (= 48-48-50-50-56-58 sts between markers). K 1 row from WS. K 1 row from RS while inc for RAGLAN on each side of the 2 sts with markers in – see explanation above. Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 (1st row = WS) AT THE SAME TIME repeat inc for raglan every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) – NOTE: On 4th row in A.1 K 2 tog and 1 YO until 1 or 2 sts remain before st with marker, K last st before st with marker in, inc as usual on each side of st with marker in and K 0 or 1 st after st with marker in so that pattern beg and ends the same on each side of st with marker. After A.1 work in garter st back and forth over all sts. When inc have been done 14-17-17-19-19-22 times in total for raglan there are 152-164-170-178-188-202 sts on needle. K 1 row from WS after last inc. Piece measures approx. 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm. Work next row as follows from RS: Cast off the first 37-40-42-44-46-49 sts (= strap), K the next 78-84-86-90-96-104 sts (the first of these sts is already on right needle), then cast off the last 37-40-42-44-46-49 sts (= strap), cut the yarn. Work next row as follows from WS: Cast on 6-8-12-15-17-20 new sts at beg of row, work the 78-84-86-90-96-104 sts from needle and cast on 6-8-12-15-17-20 new sts at the end of row = 90-100-110-120-130-144 sts. Work in garter st back and forth for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm – AT THE SAME TIME after 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm, dec 1 st in each side by K tog the 2 second outermost sts in each side from RS = 88-98-108-118-128-142 sts. Adjust so that last row is a K row from WS. Put piece aside. YOKE AT THE BACK: Cast on and work as yoke at the front. BODY: Continue in the round on circular needle. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING: Slip sts from front and back piece on to same circular needle size 3 mm. K 1 round over all sts = 176-196-216-236-256-284 sts. K 1 round but finish round when 8-8-9-9-10-10 sts remain on round. Insert 1 marker, ROUND NOW BEG HERE! Work next round as follows: Work A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts), work 16-21-25-22-26-33 sts in stocking st, work A.3 (choose diagram for correct size = 41-41-41-57-57-57 sts), work 16-21-25-22-26-33 sts in stocking st, work A.2 (= 15-15-17-17-19-19 sts), work 16-21-25-22-26-33 sts in stocking st, work A.3 (= 41-41-41-57-57-57 sts) and finish with 16-21-25-22-26-33 sts in stocking st. Continue pattern like this. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work in stocking st over all these sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 10 cm from marker (piece measures approx. 30-31-32-34-35-36 cm from shoulder), dec 1 st on each side of A.2 in each side – READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec) = 172-192-212-232-252-280 sts remain on needle. When piece measures 14-15-15-16-16-17 cm from marker (the entire top measures approx. 34-36-37-40-41-43 cm from shoulder), inc 1 st on each side of A.2 in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 3-3-3-2½-2½-2 cm 7-7-7-8-9-10 times in total = 200-220-240-264-288-320 sts. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm from shoulder, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above, then LOOSELY cast off. ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams and underarm seams under armholes - sew tog edge to edge in outer loop of edge sts. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (15)
Inga J wrote:
Hej, skal mønster A3 strikkes både foran og bagpå toppen? Er der så ingen forskel på for- og bagside?
02.09.2024 - 18:12DROPS Design answered:
Hej Inga, ja du strikker A.3 både foran og bagpå :)
06.09.2024 - 09:39Lucie wrote:
Bonjour, je tricote la taille M. Après avoir monté 96 mailles, il faut "Tricoter 1 rang end sur l'envers, puis 1 rang end sur l'endroit,..." Le 1er range après la montée de 96 mailles est-il un rang endroit ou un rang envers ? Pour moi, c'est toujous un range endroit. Mais vous écrivez "Tricoter 1 rang end sur l'ENVERS, puis 1 rang end sur l'ENDROIT,..." Je vous remercie pour votre réponse.
21.05.2024 - 12:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Lucie, notez que ce modèle commence par la taille XS, autrement dit, en taille M on doit monter 102 mailles, les 96 mailles sont à monter en XS et en S. Le 1er rang à tricoter, juste après avoir monté les mailles, sera un rang sur l'envers, tricotez simplement toutes les mailles à l'endroit, et (mettez un marqueur si besoin pour repérer l'endroit) le rang suivant sera tricoté sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!
21.05.2024 - 14:25Hanne Rosgaard Kristensen wrote:
Forstår ikke at der skal være mønster i øverste del? På billedet er det retstrik og ingen mønster.Passer billede og mønster overhovedet sammen? Mvh Hanne
01.03.2024 - 23:22DROPS Design answered:
Hej Hanne, jo når du følger diagram A.1 får du de små huller du ser øverst i udskæringen :)
05.03.2024 - 14:25Anne-May Bueide wrote:
Ja, den har jeg sett. Det er størrelse Large. Jeg var innom en dropsbutikk også, og de trodde først det var en feil i oppskriften. De kom verfall ikke frem til noen spesifikk løsning som hjalp.
09.03.2020 - 13:34DROPS Design answered:
Hei. Etter 1. raglansøkning (2. pinne på diagram A.1) går man fra 54 masker til 56 masker mellom merkene (maskene midt på toppen). Du har også økt på andre siden av "raglan", og har da 25 masker på hver side = 106 masker etter første raglansøkning (i str L). Neste raglanøkning skjer på 4.rad i diagram A.1. Da skal det strikkes 2 rett sammen og kast + raglansøkning ved merket (les evnt NB! i oppskriften). Noen ganger vil mønsteret (1 kast og 2 masker rett sammen) gå opp helt frem til økningen. Andre ganger går det ikke opp. Da strikker man 1 maske rett. Da må man også strikke 1 maske rett etter økningen for at det skal bli likt. God Fornøyelse!
17.03.2020 - 08:20Anne-May Bueide wrote:
Probl. beg. på 4. p i A1 , 2 sm og 1 kast. Man skal øke med 4 m, en på hver side av m med merke i annen hver p fra retten slik som beskrevet. Hvordan klarer man gå fra 54 m mell. merkene til 56 når man skal str 2 sm og 1 kast? Selv om jeg velger bare str 1 m og et kast i beg., går det ikke opp Eneste er å hoppe over et kast, men da blir ikke det likt på begge sider slik som beskr.Hvordan skal dette str?
08.03.2020 - 00:55DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anne-May. Litt usikker på hva du mener. Hvilken størrelse strikker du? Har du sett hjelpevideoen til denne toppen? Den viser hvordan man strikker raglan med økningene. mvh DROPS design
09.03.2020 - 13:09Ketty Bundgaard wrote:
I opskriften til 169-36 synes jeg, der mangler instruktion om stropper og kanter. Eller måske giver det sig selv, når jeg kommer igang?
02.02.2020 - 09:33DROPS Design answered:
Hei Ketty. Ja, det vil vise seg når du begynenr å strikke. Stroppene blir til når du strikker og øker til raglan, samtidig som du strikker A.1 (hullmønster). God Fornøyelse!
03.02.2020 - 11:13Jolanta wrote:
Witam . Dla rozmiaru L schemat A3 jest na 57 oczek opisu i robótki wychodzi że schemat powinień być na 41 oczek. Czy dobrze myślę?
02.09.2018 - 13:39DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Jolu! L to czwarty rozmiar (ROZMIARY: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL) więc schemat A.3 jest na 57 o. Miłej pracy!
03.09.2018 - 22:04Annab wrote:
Buongiorno, ho lavorato la prima parte del modello e ho messo da parte le maglie. Adesso però, per fare la parte del dietro, non so se devo tagliare il filo oppure continuare con un gomitolo nuovo? Non mi è molto chiaro il passaggio relativo al fatto di unire tutte le maglie su un ferro, con quale filo devo iniziare? potreste darmi qualche chiarimento in più? Grazie mille.
02.06.2017 - 16:41DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Annab. Per il dietro, inizia con un nuovo gomitolo e segue le stesse istruzioni del davanti. Riporterà poi le maglie su un unico ferro lavorando prima le maglie del dietro e proseguendo sullo stesso giro con le maglie del davanti. Buon lavoro!
02.06.2017 - 17:49Cath wrote:
Hi Thanks for the reply to my previous question regarding the charts. I have just tried to join the yoke pieces in the round and I was getting the stocking stitch effect appearing on the very first K1 row but on the wrong side of the work!. Should I have slipped both yoke pieces onto the needles with the right side of the work facing outwards or inwards? Thanks.
20.03.2016 - 23:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Cath, yes you have to join in the round at the end of a row worked from RS so that you continue in the round from RS with the RS facing outwards. Happy knitting!
21.03.2016 - 10:30Cath wrote:
Hi, Please could you clarify the charts for me. For example am I reading Row 1 of A2 correctly if I work 3 stitches (knit or purl as appropriate), then 1 YO, then [s1, k1, psso], then 7 stitches (k or p), then K2 tog, then 1 YO, then a final 3 stitches (k or p)? Thank you.
14.03.2016 - 20:38DROPS Design answered:
Dear Cath, that's correct in A.2 size M, but the first and last 2 st are P every row from RS (= every round), so that A.2 on row 1 has to be worked as follows: P2, K1, YO, (sl, K1, psso), K7, K2 tog, YO, K1, P2. Happy knitting!
15.03.2016 - 08:54