DROPS / 219 / 16

Urban Forest by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper for men in DROPS Alaska. The piece is worked top down, with double neck and saddle shoulders. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no x-456
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g colour 45, light olive

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 78 stitches), and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 22) = 3.5.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch and each 3rd and 4th stitch.
INCREASE TIP:
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round; pick up the back strand and knit in the front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use the left needle to pick up the strand between 2 stitches from the previous round; pick up the front strand and knit in the back loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
NECK:
Cast on 78-82-88-92-98-102 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and Alaska. Knit 1 round, then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) in the round for 14½ cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 22-22-32-32-34-38 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 100-104-120-124-132-140 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5 mm.

YOKE:
Insert a marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-back) – THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!
In addition, insert 4 new markers as described below – without working the stitches and inserting the markers between 2 stitches.
Marker 1: Start mid-back, count 17-18-20-21-21-23 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count 16-16-20-20-24-24 stitches from marker 1 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count 34-36-40-42-42-46 stitches from marker 2 (= front piece), insert marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count 16-16-20-20-24-24 stitches from marker 3 (= shoulder), insert marker before the next stitch.
There are 17-18-20-21-21-23 stitches left on the back piece after marker 4. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when increasing for the shoulders.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE SHOULDERS:
Work stocking stitch in the round.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, increase 4 stitches for the shoulders as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and increase AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP. Here you are only increasing on the front and back pieces and the number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
Increase like this every round a total of 14-16-16-18-20-22 times = 156-168-184-196-212-228 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase the piece measures approx. 6-7-7-8-9-10 cm from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as follows.

INCREASES FOR SLEEVES:
Work stocking stitch in the round.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next round, increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and increase BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP.
Here you are only increasing on the shoulders and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 11-13-13-15-12-12 times = 200-220-236-256-260-276 stitches.
The piece should now measure 16-19-19-22-20-21 cm from the marker on the neck. In size S continue working until the piece measures 17 cm. If the length is shorter than the above in sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL, continue to the correct length without further increases. Now increase for the yoke as described below.

INCREASES FOR YOKE:
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost sleeve stitches on each side. There are  36-40-44-48-46-46   stitches between the marker-stitches on each sleeve.  
On the next round, increase 8 stitches for the yoke by increasing on both sides of all 4 marker-stitches – remember INCREASE TIP.
Here you increase on the front and back pieces and on the sleeves; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 4-4-6-6-8-10 times = 232-252-284-304-324-356 stitches.
When all the increases are finished, the piece should measure 21-23-24-27-27-30 cm. If the length is shorter than this, continue working to the correct length without further increases.

Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Work the first 35-38-42-45-49-55 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 46-50-58-62-64-68 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-12-14-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 70-76-84-90-98-110 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-50-58-62-64-68 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 12-12-12-14-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 35-38-42-45-49-55 stitches (= ½ back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 164-176-192-208-224-248 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 29-29-29-28-29-28 cm from the division, increase 16-18-20-20-22-26 stitches evenly spaced = 180-194-212-228-246-274 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP.
The jumper measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 46-50-58-62-64-68 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 58-62-70-76-78-82 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 11-6-3½-3-3-2½ cm a total of 4-6-9-11-11-13 times = 50-50-52-54-56-56 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 41-39-39-37-38-36 cm from the division. Knit 1 round where you decrease 10-8-8-8-10-8 stitches evenly spaced = 40-42-44-46-46-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the wrong side and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.

Diagram

= knitting direction
= increase for saddle shoulders
= increase for sleeves
= increase for yoke


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 219-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Curcio Mirella 07.03.2021 - 06:11:

Buongiorno ,non riesco a trovare Urban Forest nella pagina di Aiuto e consigli , come mai ? grazie

Edith 01.03.2021 - 07:32:

Bonjour, je voudrais tricoter ce modèle mais j'hésite. Le pli de devant est tout à fait disgracieux et je ne sais pas comment y remédier. Est ce que quelqu'un à trouvé une solution pour améliorer ce modèle ? Merci de vos réponses !!!

DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 10:09:

Bonjour Edith, dans ce type de modèles tricotés de haut en bas, le devant pourra rendre différemment en fonction de la morphologie de chacun (largeur et angle des épaules). Bon tricot!

Bente La Cour 22.02.2021 - 09:54:

Strikkeprøven til Urban forest, der er anbefalede pinde ikke angivet. Skal jeg så teste med pind 4, som ribben strikkes med, eller pind 5, som resten strikkes i?

DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 14:20:

Hej Bente, du skal få 17 masker i bredden i glatstrik og vi bruger pinde nr 5 til det glatstrikkede, så prøv med den først :)

Charlotte Harboe 17.02.2021 - 08:55:

Hej Er det bare mig, eller er der en fejl i opskriften efter der er blevet delt til ærmer og forstykke/bagstykke. I skriver der skal være 70 masker på både for og bagstykke, så skal man slå 2 x 12 masker op under ærmerne. Det kan da aldrig give 164 masker, men må give 184 masker.

DROPS Design 18.02.2021 kl. 08:47:

Hej Charlotte 70+70+12+12 =164 :)

Monika 17.02.2021 - 05:47:

Dzień dobry,jakim sposobem należy dodawać oczka na karczek,poprzez narzut czy z oczka poniżej?

DROPS Design 17.02.2021 kl. 09:35:

Witaj Moniko, należy dodawać oczka z nitki poprzecznej między 2 oczkami poprzedniego okrążenia, patrz część DODAWANIE OCZEK. Pozdrawiamy!

Peters 16.02.2021 - 18:27:

Jeg har det samme problem som to andre spørger til (på fransk): der dannes en stor og grim fold under hagen, meget større end den, der kan ses på fotoet af modellen. Hen over ryggen sidder trøjen nogenlunde. Jeg håber, den giver sig lidt i brug, ellers må jeg prøve at blokke den ud, som I foreslår. Jeg tænker, der må være et problem med opskriften?

Didier Auger 12.02.2021 - 15:22:

Bonjour, apparemment il y a un problème sur ce modèle. Il y a un commentaire français qui dit comme moi. Je n'ai pas traduit les autres. J'ai fait comme les explications. Mais il se forme devant, sous le menton après le col, un gros pli disgracieux. C'est trop tard pour moi je suis loin sous les manches. Si je le refais comme comme j'en avais l'intention, il faut modifier. C'est dommage de ne pas le corriger. Cordialement Didier

Christina 02.02.2021 - 09:24:

Mönster 2 219-16. Jag har stickat Axel-ok mm. Jag har rundstickat hela fram- och bakstycket. När arbetet mäter 29 cm från delningen så skall det ÖKAS 18m jämnt fördelat innan resår. Det är väl fel. Jag skall väl MINSKA 18 m i medium? Jag har minskat i två omgångar 18 m totalt. Om jag följer mönstret så får jag en slapp resår.

DROPS Design 02.02.2021 kl. 10:21:

Hej Christina. Resår är mer elastiskt än slätstickning och drar därför ihop sig mer. Genom att öka maskor före resåren undviker man att det blir en markant skillnad på bredden på resåren jämfört med resten av fram- och bakstycket. Mvh DROPS Design

Gudrun 29.01.2021 - 11:20:

Guten Tag, wie kann ich die Anleitung für ein anderes Garn umrechnen? Ich möchte den Pullover mit Merino extrafein arbeiten. Danke für Ihre Hilfe.

DROPS Design 29.01.2021 kl. 14:23:

Liebe Gudrun, Merino Extra Fine gehört zu der Garngruppe B und ist dann keine Alternative zum Alaska, aber Big Merino gehört zur Garngruppe C und könnte eine Alternative sein - oder auch 2 Fäden Baby Merino. Benutzen Sie den Garnumrechner um die neue Garnmenge kalkulieren zu lassen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gitta 28.01.2021 - 19:42:

Warum werden vor dem Abschluss Bündchen soviel Maschen zugenommen ? Maschen vor dem Bündchen abnehmen wäre normal.

DROPS Design 29.01.2021 kl. 07:59:

Liebe Gitta, hier will man nicht, daß das Bündchen den ganzen Pullover zusammenzieht, sondern daß die Bündchen etwas "gerade" werden, da man mehr Maschen mit dünneren Nadeln und Rippenmuster als mit dickeren Nadeln und gltt rechts, muss man zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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