DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 219-11
DROPS design: Pattern ee-698
Yarn group E or C + C
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
650-700-750-850-950-1000 g colour 46, medium grey

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm for stocking stitch
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
100% Wool
from 2.00 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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DECREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Decrease in every transition between sleeve and body piece every other round - begin 4 stitches before marker thread and work as follows: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 4 (marker is in the middle of these 4 stitches), and knit 2 together.
When stitches have been slipped on to stitch holder for neck, work back and forth - decrease for raglan on every row from right side.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeve):
Work until 1 stitch remains before marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker is between these stitches), make 1 yarn over = 2 stitches increased. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Body is worked in the round on circular needle up to armhole. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles (switch to a short circular needle when needed). Then slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body, and work yoke in the round. Work neck in the round on double pointed needles or a short circular needle.

BODY:
Cast on 96-104-112-120-128-148 stitches on circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round, insert another marker after 48-52-56-60-64-74 stitches. Work 1 round in stocking stitch.

Work rib in round with knit 2 and purl 2 for 5 cm.
Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work in stocking stitch. When piece measures 12-12-12-12-12-12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker – read INCREASE TIP in explanation above. Repeat increase every 6-10-10-10-10-10 cm 3 times in total = 108-116-124-132-140-160 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work until piece measures 41-41-42-42-42-42 cm, cast off 6 stitches in each side for armholes (i.e. cast off 3 stitches on each side of each marker) = 48-52-56-60-64-74 stitches on needle. Put piece aside and work the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 24-24-24-32-32-36 stitches on double pointed needles size 7 mm with Snow. Work 2 rounds in stocking stitch, then work rib knit 2 and purl 2 until sleeve measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm.
Switch to double pointed needles size 8 mm, insert a marker at beginning of round and work in stocking stitch. When piece measures 8-10-10-9-9-9 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker – read INCREASE TIP in explanation above.
Repeat increase approx. every 5½-4-3½-5-4½-4 cm 8-10-11-8-9-9 times in total = 40-44-46-48-50-54 stitches.
Work until piece measures 51-50-49-48-46-46 cm, on next round cast off 6 stitches mid under sleeve (3 stitches on each side of marker) = 34-38-40-42-44-48 stitches. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve the same way.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body – where stitches for armholes were cast off = 164-180-192-204-216-244 stitches. Insert marker threads in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Work 2-1-1-0-0-0 rounds stocking stitch before raglan decrease begins.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Decrease for raglan on each side of 4 stitches at every marker thread - read DECREASE TIP in explanation above - every other round 13-15-16-17-18-21 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, slip the middle 8-8-10-12-14-16 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck. Work piece back and forth while decreasing for raglan from right side as before, and cast off for neck at the beginning of every row as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time , and cast off 1 stitch 1 time.
After all decreases for raglan and neck, there are 46-46-48-50-52-54 stitches on needle.

NECK:
Use double pointed needles size 7 mm. Pick up stitches for neck and slip stitches from stitch holder on to needles so that there are approx. 14 to 22 stitches in the neck at the front. There should be approx. 60 to 76 stitches on needles (number of stitches must be divisible by 4). Purl 1 round, then work rib knit 2/purl 2 for 9 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Fold the neck outwards towards right side. Fasten cast-off edge with neat little stitches from the wrong side of jumper (make sure to make the seam invisible on the right side and to avoid a tight seam).

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Carolien wrote:

Een vraag over de mouw. 32 steken opzetten op een naald zonder knop. Dan een markeerdraad bij een hoogte van 8cm aan het begin. Dan verder breien op naald 8 Als de mouwen klaar zijn kun je de overige steken op de rondbreinaald zetten bij het voor en achterland. Naai je de zijnaden dicht van de mouwen?

13.03.2024 - 17:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carolien

De mouwen worden in de rondte gebreid, evenals de panden, dus je hoeft geen zijnaden dicht te naaien. Enkel de stukjes onder de oksel, waar de mouwen en de panden samen op de naald worden gezet, naai je op het einde dicht.

14.03.2024 - 21:48

country flag Carolien wrote:

Hallo, ik zie het al. Ik was in de war met een ander patroon dat vanuit de bovenkant begon.🙈

04.03.2024 - 04:10

country flag Carolien wrote:

Klopt het dat je maar 2 markeerdraden hebt. Daar ben ik mee begonnen. Ik zit nu op de 12 cm, en ik kom er niet verder mee. Moeten er niet 4 markeerdraden zijn?

03.03.2024 - 21:47

country flag Remco wrote:

Hallo, Veel dank voor heldere uitleg. Stekenverhouding is oke, maar idd raglanmindering niet om elke ander naald gedaan. Groeten, Remco

07.02.2024 - 09:43

country flag Remco wrote:

Hallo, Trui is af, maar te klein. Ongeveer 10cm. Ben na raglanmindering meteen begonnen aan hals. Had ik eerst nog door moeten breien in triocotstteek? Heb maat L. Dank en groeten, Remco

02.02.2024 - 14:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Remco,

Nee, je kunt direct na de raglanminderingen met de hals verder gaan. Klopt je stekenverhouding in de hoogte? En heb je de raglanminderingen om de naald gemaakt, dus de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet?

04.02.2024 - 19:12

country flag Remco wrote:

Hallo, Ik loop een beetje vast bij de pas. Zit nu op een hoogte van 60 cm. Waar zet ik de tien steken op de hulpdraad? Is dat op het lange stuk en naast elkaar? Die brei ik dan niet? En moet ik dan terug breien met de mindering? En ik beegrijp het afkanten niet: Kant 1 keer 2 steken af, en kant 1 keer 1 steek af. In totaal 12 of 6 steken afkanten. Dank alvast! Groeten, Remco

12.01.2024 - 09:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Remco,

Je zet de middelste steken van het voorpand op een hulpdraad, dus precies de 10 middelste steken. Dan brei je het werk verder heen en weer en het afkanten doe je dan steeds aan het begin op elke naald, dus direct naast de 10 steken aan beide kanten. Op deze manier krijg je een mooie ronding in de hals. Je kant aan beide kanten eerst 2 steken af en dan aan beide kanten nog een keer 1 steken. In totaal dus 6 steken (3 steken aan beide kanten).

14.01.2024 - 13:07

country flag Anne Forbes wrote:

I am stuck! Having slipped middle 8 stitches on holder for neck I am u sure how I decrease the neck and keep shaping the raglan. Does 'work price back and forth' mean coming off the round?

13.07.2023 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Ann, Yes, you now continue back and forth from one side of the neck, around the back piece to the other side of the neck, always continuing the decreases for raglan on rows from the right side. In addition, you decrease for the neck by casting off 2 stitches by the neck 1 time on each side, then cast off 1 stitch on each side 1 time (on both rows from the right and wrong side). Hope this helps and happy knitting!

14.07.2023 - 07:03

country flag Paula wrote:

What are the measurements for the sizes? ie what width chest is size XL. I cant see a conversion chart anywhere.

30.09.2021 - 22:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Paula, you can find all the relevant measurements on the schematic drawing at the bottom of the pattern. We suggest that you take a sweater that fits and compare the sizing. Happy Stitching!

30.09.2021 - 23:29

country flag Malika Katharina Raduenz wrote:

Hallo , Ob auf Französisch oder auf Deutsch, ich verstehe nicht wie der Kragen bzw. die Halsblende gestrickt wird. Ich habe das viel zu eng gestrickt. Könnten Sie mir das genauer erklären? Danke

15.05.2021 - 22:07

country flag Irja Syvertsen wrote:

Kant dan losjes de af steken 2-1-1-3-4-4 keer af met recht boven recht en averecht boven averecht. Ik begrijp deze zin niet zo goed. Hoe kant ik 4 keer af? Hartelijk dank.

23.03.2021 - 17:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Irja,

Dat klopt inderdaad niet. Er moet staan: Kant dan losjes de steken af met recht boven recht en averecht boven averecht. Het is nu gecorrigeerd. Veel breiplezier!

26.03.2021 - 16:03