DROPS / 214 / 54

Fjord Mosaic Set by DROPS Design

Knitted mittens and socks with Nordic pattern in DROPS Nepal. Mitten sizes S/M – M/L. Sock sizes 35 – 43.

  • Fjord Mosaic Set / DROPS 214-54 - Knitted mittens and socks with Nordic pattern in DROPS Nepal.
Mitten sizes S/M – M/L. Sock sizes 35 – 43.
  • Fjord Mosaic Set / DROPS 214-54 - Knitted mittens and socks with Nordic pattern in DROPS Nepal.
Mitten sizes S/M – M/L. Sock sizes 35 – 43.
  • Fjord Mosaic Set / DROPS 214-54 - Knitted mittens and socks with Nordic pattern in DROPS Nepal.
Mitten sizes S/M – M/L. Sock sizes 35 – 43.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-329
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

WHOLE SET:

SIZES:
Mittens: S/M – M/L
Socks: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-200 g colour 0500, light grey
150-150-150 g colour 8913, light blue

MITTENS:

SIZES:
S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: approx. 21-23 cm. Length: approx. 24-26 cm.

MATERIAL:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100 g colour 0500, light grey
50-50 g colour 8913, light blue

KNITTING TENSION:
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: For stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: For rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

SOCKS:

SIZES:
35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22-24-27 cm.
Leg height: approx. 17-17-17 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-150 g colour 0500, light grey
100-100-100 g colour 8913, light blue

KNITTING TENSION:
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stocking stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: For stocking stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM: For rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
Mittens: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Chose diagram for your size (applies to A.1, A.2, A.x and A.y)
Socks: See diagrams A.5 and A.6.
The whole pattern is worked in stocking stitch, apart from A.1 which is worked in rib.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 36 stitches) and divide with number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 4) = 9. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 9th stitch. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together each 8th and 9th stitch.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Work A.6 until there are 4-5-5 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work A.6 until there are 4-5-5 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Work A.6 until there are 3-4-4 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Work A.6 until there are 3-4-4 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
Continue to decrease like this, by working until there is one stitch less left before slipping a stitch, and until there are 9-9-11 stitches left on the needle.

DECREASE TIP (for socks):
Start 2 stitches before the marker-stitch, knit 2 together using the opposite colour to the marker-stitch, work the marker-stitch as before, knit 2 twisted together using the opposite colour to the marker-stitch. Decrease in the same way at the second marker (= 4 stitches decreased on the round).

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

MITTENS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked bottom up. Increase for the thumb-gusset as shown in the diagram, then the thumb-stitches are placed on 1 thread before the hand is finished. Finally, the thumb is worked.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on 36-40 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and light blue. Work rib in the round (= knit 2, purl 2) with stripes as shown in A.1.
When A.1 has been completed in height, knit 1 round with light grey where you increase 4-4 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 40-44 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. The rest of the mitten is worked in stocking stitch.
Work according to diagram A.2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME on the first round work A.3 over the 3 black squares in A.2. Increase for the thumb-gusset as shown in A.3. When A.3 has been worked in height, 8 stitches have been increased in A.3, which now covers 11 stitches.
On the next round place these 11 stitches on a thread and cast on 3 new stitches over the stitches on the thread (cast on with the colours shown in the diagram) = 40-44 stitches. Continue with A.2 over all stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, there are 8 stitches left. Cut the strands and pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

THUMB:
Place the 11 stitches from the thread on double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the first 11 stitches on the first row in A.4 over these 11 stitches (= front of thumb) – in addition knit up 9 stitches around the opening, i.e. 2 on each side and 5 stitches in the 3 cast-on stitches (work the last 9 stitches on the first row in A.4 over these 9 stitches = back of thumb) = 20 stitches.
Continue A.4 in the round. When A.4 has been completed, there are 4 stitches left. Cut the strands and pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well.

LEFT MITTEN:
Work the left mitten in the same way as the right mitten, but work the thumb gusset on the opposite side – see diagram A.x which shows where the thumb gusset is worked in the pattern. When A.x has been completed in height, work A.y to finished length.
Work the thumb in the same way as on the right mitten.

-------------------------------------------------------

SOCKS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

SOCK:
Cast on 50-52-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and light blue. Change to light grey and work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round with light grey where you decrease 4 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 46-48-50 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work the next round as follows: Work A.5 over the first 30 stitches (= 3 repeats of 10 stitches), then work the first stitch in A.5 so the pattern is symmetric (these 31 stitches are the front of the sock) work A.6 over the next 14-16-18 stitches and then the first stitch in A.6, so the pattern is symmetric (these 15-17-19 stitches are the back of the sock). Continue this pattern.
When A.5 and A.6 have been worked 3 times in height in all sizes, place the 31 front stitches on a thread (i.e. the stitches in A.5) = 15-17-19 stitches left for the heel.
Continue with A.6 back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the last round – this will be used when measuring the foot-length.
Work HEEL DECREASE – read description above.

After the heel decrease, work the next round as follows: Continue A.6 over the 9-9-11 heel stitches, knit up 8-10-12 stitches along the side of the heel (with the colours in A.6), continue A.5 over the 31 stitches from the thread and knit up 8-10-12 stitches along the other side of the heel (with the colours in A.6) = 56-60-66 stitches on the needles.
Continue with A.5 over the 31 stitches on the front of the sock and A.6 over the other stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round, decrease on each side of the 31 stitches – decrease inside the outermost stitches in A.6 as described below:
Work the first stitch in A.6 as before (this stitch is not a part of the decrease, but is continued in light blue), knit 2 twisted together with light grey, work A.6 until there are 3 stitches left before A.5, knit 2 together with light grey and work the last stitch in A.6 as before (this stitch is not a part of the decrease, but is continued in light blue).
Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-6-6 times on each side = 48-48-54 stitches.
Continue A.5 and A.6 until the piece measures 18-20-22 cm from the marker on the heel, measured under the foot.
There is approx. 4-4-5 cm left to finished length; try the sock on and work to desired length, but finish after a half or whole repeat of A.5 in height.
Continue with A.6 over all stitches, matching the pattern neatly over the stitches under the foot.
AT THE SAME TIME on the 2nd round, insert 1 marker thread on each side so there are 23-23-27 stitches on top of the foot and 23-23-25 stitches underneath.
On the next round decrease for the toe on each side of the stitches with marker threads – read DECREASE TIP = 4 stitches decreased. Decrease like this every round a total of 9-9-10 times = 12-12-14 stitches. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-6-7 stitches. Cut the strands and pull them through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The sock measures approx. 22-24-27 cm from the marker on the heel, measured under the foot. Work the other sock in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = light grey
symbols = light blue
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 with light grey and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
symbols = knit 2 together with light grey (= 1 stitch decreased).
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together with light grey and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).
symbols = thumb-gusset worked here; i.e. A.3
symbols = make 1 yarn over with light grey; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole (= 1 stitch increased).
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-54) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Kathrine 11.04.2021 - 22:18:

Jeg strikket vottene etter oppskrift M/L str Vottene passet til min sønn på 9 år! De passet overhodet ikke til meg😡 Mønsteret er helt nydelig, og jeg gledet med til å få meg nye votter

country flag Friederike 17.02.2021 - 17:06:

Danke für die Antwort! Was ich nicht ganz verstehe... Wenn ich in der 1.Reihe das Muster Stricke und gleichzeitig den Raglan zunehme.Stricke ich diese Maschen dann laut Muster ab oder werden die vom Muster ausgenommen?

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2021 kl. 08:39:

Liebe Friederike, Sie meinen für den Pullover "Fjord Mosaic"? Bei der 1. Reihe bei der Passen stricken Sie die 1. Reihe von den Diagrammen und gleichzeitg nehmen Sie 1 Masche beidseitig von der M mit der Markierung, dh z. B. für die Ärmel in S: 1 Umschlag, 1. Reihe A.1, 1 Umschlag. Bei der 2. Runde stricken Sie diese 13 M wie im Diagram (= Umschläge werden mit perlgrau gestrickt). Bei der 3. Reihe stricken Sie: 1 Umschlag, 3. Reihe A.1, 1 Umschlag, bei der 4. Reihe stricken Sie diese 15 M wie im Diagram gezeigt. (A.2A und A.2C stricken Sie genauso wie bei A.1). Hilft es Ihnen weiter?

country flag Eva Lodal 03.02.2021 - 16:48:

Ifølge forklaringen til diagrammet skal man tage ind på tommelen i stedet for ud ...

country flag Linda 19.01.2021 - 18:35:

Jag klarar sticka tills rad 6 på höger vante på diagram A2 M/L (med 40 maskor) men sedan blir det fel... stämmer diagrammet? (A2 M/L och A3)

user icon DROPS Design 29.01.2021 kl. 07:55:

Hej Linda. Ja det ska vara riktigt, vad är det du får problem med? Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Moa 28.10.2020 - 19:57:

Jättefint! Men jag kan inte se några instruktioner för vaken vantar eller sockor, endast diagrammen. Har de försvunnit från sidan?

user icon DROPS Design 29.10.2020 kl. 07:31:

Hej Moa. Tack för info, nu finns mönstret även på svenska. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Rita 06.06.2020 - 14:53:

Nydelig sett til å gi bort som gave.

country flag Mimi M Routh 04.06.2020 - 19:04:

A really nice, warm set -- out of all the designs out there. I would make this and keep it. Elizabeth Zimmerman (old U.S. knit guru) says socks like this are for putting feet up around a fire, showing off your knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 214-54

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.