DROPS / 214 / 23

Cocoa Beans Set by DROPS Design

Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Snow. Knit the entire set in textured pattern.

  • Cocoa Beans Set / DROPS 214-23 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Snow. Knit the entire set in textured pattern.
  • Cocoa Beans Set / DROPS 214-23 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Snow. Knit the entire set in textured pattern.
  • Cocoa Beans Set / DROPS 214-23 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Snow. Knit the entire set in textured pattern.
  • Cocoa Beans Set / DROPS 214-23 - Knitted hat, neck warmer with saddle shoulder and mittens in DROPS Snow. Knit the entire set in textured pattern.
DROPS design: Pattern ee-709
Yarn group E or C + C
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FOR THE ENTIRE SET:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
350-400 g colour 47, light beige

HAT:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L
Head circumference: Approx. 54/56– 56/58 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150-150 g colour 47, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm: Length 40 cm for stocking stitch and textured pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm: Length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

NECK WARMER:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
150-200 g colour 47, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm for stocking stitch and textured pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm : Length 40 and 60 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

MITTENS:

SIZE:
S/M – M/L
Length: approx. 25-26 cm Circumference: approx. 20-22 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
100-100 g colour 47, light beige

KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm: For stocking stitch and textured pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm: For rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagram A.1.
Neck warmer: See diagram A.2.
Mittens: See diagram A.3.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (applies to top of hat):
Decrease as follows before marker thread: Begin 2 stitches before marker thread, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows after marker thread: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (applies to saddle shoulder increase on neck warmer):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the right.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch will be twisted, leaning towards the left.
Use left needle to pick up strand between 2 stitches from the round below, pick up strand from the front and knit stitch in back loop.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on a short circular needle, bottom up. Switch to double pointed needles when needed. Fold the bottom 9 cm upwards.

HAT:
Cast on 54-56 stitches on a short circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 12 cm.
Switch to a short circular needle size 8 mm, and work in stocking stitch in the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures 18-19 cm from cast-on edge, work A.1 in the round. When A.1 has been worked, work the rest of hat in stocking stitch.
When piece measures 29-30 cm from cast-on edge, begin decreases at the top of hat, and decrease as explained below.
Insert 6-7 marker threads 9-8 stitches apart (this is done without working the stitches). On first round decrease 1 stitch on each side of 6-7 marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 12-14 stitches decreased).
Decrease like this every 3rd-4th round 3 times in total vertically = 18-14 stitches remain. Work 1 round without decrease.
On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 9-7 stitches remain. Cut the yarn. Pull yarn through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten. Piece measures approx. 35-37 cm from top and down. Fold the bottom 9 cm of hat.

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NECK WARMER - SHORT SUMMARY OF PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Increase out for saddle shoulder in each side. Then divide the piece - work back piece and front piece back and forth separately on circular needle until finished measurements.

NECK WARMER:
Cast on 50-58 stitches on a short circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work rib in the round as follows (from left shoulder on the back when neck warmer is worn): * Purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* over the first 18-20 stitches, purl 2, knit 1, work from *-* over the next 22-26 stitches, purl 2, knit 1, work from *-* over the remaining 4-6 stitches.
Continue rib like this for 10 cm or desired length.
Now insert 4 markers in piece (without working the stitches): Place markers between stitches, and use markers when increasing for saddle shoulders.
Insert first marker at the beginning of round, count 13-13 stitches (= back piece), insert 2nd marker before next stitch, count 12-16 stitches (= shoulder – the 2 purl stitches are in the middle of these 12-16 stitches), insert 3rd marker before next stitch, count 13-13 stitches (= front piece), insert 4th marker before next stitch. 12-16 stitches remain on round after last marker (= shoulder – the 2 purl stitches are in the middle of these 12-16 stitches). Switch to circular needle size 8 mm, and increase for saddle shoulder as explained below.

SADDLE SHULDER INCREASE:
Work in stocking stitch over the 13-13 stitches on back piece and front piece, and rib as before over the 12-16 stitches on each shoulder. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME increase for saddle shoulders on every round as follows: Increase BEFORE 2nd and 4th marker and AFTER 1st and 3rd marker – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased – the increased stitches are part of front and back piece, i.e. the 12 shoulder stitches are constant).
Increase like this EVERY round - 8-10 times in total = 82-98 stitches.
Then work 4 rounds as before (with increases as before on each of these 4 rounds), but over the 12-16 stitches on each shoulder work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above = 98-114 stitches on row after last round with increase.
On next round cast off shoulder stitches, i.e. work next round as follows: Purl 3, work in stocking stitch until 3 stitches remain before 2nd marker, purl 3, loosely cast off the 12-16 shoulder stitches, purl 3, work in stocking stitch until 3 stitches remain before 4th marker, purl 3, and loosely cast off the remaining 12-16 shoulder stitches.
Finish back piece and front piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 37-41 stitches. Work first row as follows from right side: 3 edge stitches in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above, work A.2 until 4 stitches remain on row, work first stitch in A.2 (so that pattern begins and ends the same way in each side), and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Continue A.2 back and forth as before with 3 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 32-33 cm from cast-on edge (measured mid back).
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm, and work rib from right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain on needle, knit 1 and finish with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. When 4 rows rib have been worked, loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Piece measures approx. 34-35 cm from cast-on edge mid back.

FRONT PIECE:
= 37-41 stitches. Work as on back piece.

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MITTENS - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work piece in the round on double pointed needles, bottom up.

LEFT MITTEN:
Cast on 24-26 stitches on double pointed needles size 6 mm with Snow. Work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 6 cm.
Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm, and work A.3 in the round over all stitches. Continue the pattern like this - work A.3 2 times in total vertically, then work the rest of mitten in stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-13 cm, work an opening for thumb on next round as follows: Work 6-6 stitches as before, slip the next 5-6 stitches on 1 stitch holder for thumb, cast on 5-6 new stitches on needle over stitches on stitch holder, and work the remaining 13-14 stitches as before = 24-26 stitches on needles.
Work until piece measures 22-23 cm. Approx. 3 cm remain until finished measurements, try the mitten on and work until desired length.
On next round, decrease 6-6 stitches evenly (knit every 3rd and 4th stitch together) = 18-20 stitches remain.
Work 2 rounds without decrease. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 9-10 stitches remain. On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 5-5 stitches remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Mitten measures approx. 25-26 cm from top and down.

THUMB:
Slip the 5-6 stitches from stitch holder on double pointed needles size 7 mm, and pick in addition up 7-8 new stitches around opening for thumb = 12-14 stitches distributed on double pointed needles 7. Work in stocking stitch in the round – AT THE SAME TIME on first round decrease 2 stitches evenly = 10-12 stitches remain. Work until thumb measures approx. 6-7 cm (measured from where stitches were put back on needles). Approx. 1 cm remain until finished measurements, try the mitten on and work until desired length on thumb.
Work 2 rounds in stocking stitch where all stitches are knitted together 2 by 2 on both rounds = 3- 3 stitches remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Thumb measures approx. 7-8 cm.

RIGHT MITTEN:
Cast on the same number of stitches as on left mitten and work rib in the round the same way as on left mitten for 6 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm and work A.3 in the round the same way as on left mitten.
When piece measures 12-13 cm, work an opening for thumb on next round as follows: Work 13-14 stitches as before, slip the next 5-6 stitches on 1 stitch holder for thumb, cast on 5-6 new stitches on needle over stitch on stitch holder, and work the remaining 6-6 stitches as before = 24-26 stitches on needles.
Work the rest of the mitten the same way as left mitten.

THUMB:
Work the same way as thumb on left mitten.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 214-23) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (2)

country flag Katia 13.02.2021 - 21:11:

Hello! I am knitting the beginning of neck warmer, size L. It says here:Cast on 58 stitches. and then it says, work rib 20 stitches + 26 stitches + 6 stitches = 52 stitches! How many should it be, please help!?

user icon DROPS Design 15.02.2021 kl. 08:00:

Hi Katia, There are 20 stitches in rib, then purl 2, knit 1, 26 stitches in rib , purl 2, knit 1 and rib over the final 6 stitches. This adds up to 58 stitches, Happy knitting!

country flag Diane Villeneuve 13.01.2021 - 01:31:

Pour le modèle Cocoa Beans no : ee-709 , J'ai fait le bonnet il est parfait. Je suis rendue au plastron mais je ne saisie pas le départ ? au dessus? et les 6 dernières mailles.

user icon DROPS Design 13.01.2021 kl. 07:29:

Bonjour Mme Villeneuve, tricoter *1 maille envers, 1 maille endroit* au-dessus des 18 premières mailles signifie tricoter les 18 premières mailles en côtes 1 maille envers/1 maille endroit. De même pour les 6 dernières mailles que vous allez tricoter en répétant de *-* autrement dit en côtes (1 maille envers, 1 maille endroit) x 3. Bon tricot!

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