Tracy the Triceratops by DROPS Design

Crocheted triceratops dinosaur in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from nose to tail without a seam. Theme: Soft toys.

Tags: animals, toys,
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-078-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Height: approx. 13 cm
Length: approx. 28 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS Merino Extra Fine from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g colour 41, olive – for body and legs
50 g colour 18, green – for nose and frill
50 g colour 29, turquoise – for spines and horns
And use:
Leftover black for eyes.

CROCHET TENSION:
20 double crochets in width and 20 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

ACCESSORIES: Wadding.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET TIP (for chain stitches):
1 chain stitch should equal 1 double crochet in width. Make sure the chain-stitch loop is pulled up the hook so it is not tight. If the chain stitches are tight the pattern will be tight in sections with a lot of chain stitches.

CROCHET TOGETHER:
Work 2 double crochets together to 1 double crochet:
Insert the hook through the first stitch and pick up the strand, insert the hook through the next stitch and pick up the strand (= 3 loops on the hook), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops (= 1 stitch decreased).

LOOP STITCH:
Sew with a single black strand. The eye is embroidered over rows 12 and 13 on the nose and there are 4 stitches between each eye. See diagram showing how to work loop stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DINOSAUR – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked from nose to tail without a seam. First you work 4 legs and 3 horns. Then the dinosaur is started at the nose followed by the frill. The body is worked from the back of the frill, legs attached as you go and the tail worked to finish. Finally the spikes are worked on the frill.

FRONT and BACK LEGS:
Work 2 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and olive - read CROCHET TIP.
In the first chain stitch work 5 double crochets, making a small circle of stitches. Finish the circle with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet, closing the circle and finishing ROUND 1.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, then 2 double crochets in each stitch. The round is finished with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 10 stitches on the round.
ROUND 3: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 3 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet (= 15 stitches).
ROUNDS 4-10: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch on the round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet (= 15 stitches).
Work 4 legs in this way and fill them with wadding.

HORNS:
FOREHEAD: Work 11 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and turquoise. Start in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook and work 1 slip stitch in each of the next 10 chain stitches, in addition work 2 double crochets in the last chain stitch (these 2 double crochets are used to work the piece together later). Turn and work 1 slip stitch in the bottom of each of the 10 chain stitches. Cut and fasten the strand. Work 2 horns.
NOSE:
Work 6 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and green. Start in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook and work 1 slip stitch in each of the next 5 chain stitches, in addition work 2 double crochets in the last chain stitch (these 2 double crochets are used to work the piece together later). Cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 horn.

NOSE:
Work 2 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and green, in the first chain stitch work 5 double crochets, making a small circle of stitches. Finish the circle with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet, closing the circle and finishing ROUND 1.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, then 2 double crochets in each stitch. The round is finished with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 10 stitches on the round.
ROUNDS 3- 4: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet (= 10 stitches).
ROUND 5: On this round the horn is attached to the nose as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, lay the horn on the nose so you work the next 2 stitches through both layers, 1 double crochet in each of the last 4 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet (= 10 stitches).
ROUND 6: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 double crochets in each of the next 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the last 4 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet (= 2 stitches increased and 12 stitches on the round).
ROUND 7: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 5 stitches, 2 double crochets in each of the next 2 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the last 5 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet (= 14 stitches).
ROUNDS 8-15: Work as ROUND 6, increasing 2 double crochets in each of the 2 stitches mid-top of nose on each round.
After ROUND 15 there are 30 stitches.
ROUND 16: On this round the horns are attached to the forehead as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in the first stitch, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, lay the horn on the nose so you work the next 2 double crochets through both layers, 2 double crochets in the next stitch (= mid-top of nose), 2 double crochets in the next stitch, attach the other horn over the next 2 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in the next stitch, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch and 1 double crochet in the last stitch. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet (= 36 stitches).

FRILL:
All the double crochets on the next round are worked in the front loop of the stitches. This gives a small edge at the back of the piece, which you work in when continuing with the body.
ROUND 17: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch (= mid-top of nose), 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 42 stitches),
ROUND 18: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 10 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 48 stitches).
ROUND 19: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 12 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 12 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 54 stitches).
ROUND 20: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 3 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 13 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 13 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the last 3 stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 60 stitches).
ROUND 21: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet, cut the strand and pull it through the last loop.
Now the nose and frill are finished. Embroider the eyes with black, read LOOP STITCH in descriptions above.

BODY:
Using crochet hook size 3.5 mm and olive, start at the bottom of the head and work the available loops from round 16 (back of round 17) as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in each loop, but skip 1 stitch on the round (= 35 stitches). This round does not finish with a slip stitch; when starting the next round work the first stitch in the first stitch from the previous round – so you continue round and round.
Insert 1 marker mid-top of back and 1 marker mid-under the stomach.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the stomach (= 2 increased stitches and 37 stitches on the round).
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the stomach and 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the back (= 4 increased stitches and 41 stitches on the round).
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Fill the dinosaur with wadding.
ROUND 5: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the stomach and 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the back (= 4 increased stitches and 45 stitches on the round).

ROUND 6: Now the legs are attached to the body.
Start mid-under the stomach, fold a front leg double and lay it on the body so the next 6 double crochets are worked through 3 layers, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until there are 6 stitches left. Fold the other front leg double and lay it on the body so the last 6 double crochets are worked through 3 layers.
ROUND 7: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the back (= 2 increased stitches and 47 stitches on the round).
ROUND 8: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 9: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the back (= 2 increased stitches and 49 stitches on the round).
ROUND 10: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 11: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the back (= 2 increased stitches and 51 stitches on the round).
ROUND 12: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 13: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch, but work 2 double crochets in the stitches before and after the marker on the back (= 2 increased stitches and 53 stitches on the round).
ROUNDS 14-21: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 22: Now attach the back legs to the body.
Start mid-under the stomach, fold a back leg double and lay it on the body so the next 6 double crochets are worked through all 3 layers. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until there are 6 stitches left. Fold the other back leg double and lay it on the body so the last 6 double crochets are worked through all 3 layers.
Fill the dinosaur with wadding.

TAIL:
ROUND 23: Work the first 2 double crochets together – read CROCHET TOGETHER in descriptions above, work 1 double crochet in each stitch to the end of the round (= 52 stitches).
Make sure the markers are still mid-top of back and mid-under the body/tail!
Now decrease for the tail:
ROUND 24: Work 2 double crochets together, work 1 double crochet in each stitch until you have 6 stitches left before the marker on the back, work 2 double crochets together a total of 6 times, 1 double crochet in each stitch until you have 2 stitches left before the marker under the tail, work 2 double crochets together (= 8 stitches decreased and 44 stitches on the round).
ROUND 25: Work 2 double crochets together, double crochet in each stitch until you have 2 stitches left before the marker under the tail, work 2 double crochets together (= 2 stitches decreased and 42 stitches on the round).
Fill the dinosaur with wadding.
ROUND 26: Work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each stitch until you have 4 stitches left before the marker on the back, work 2 double crochets together a total of 4 times, 1 double crochet in each stitch until you have 2 stitches left before the marker under the tail, work 2 double crochets together (= 6 stitches decreased and 36 stitches on the round).
ROUNDS 27-36: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until you have 2 stitches left before the marker on the back, work 2 double crochets together, work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each stitch as far as the marker under the tail (= 2 stitches decreased each round and after round 36 there are 16 stitches).
Fill the dinosaur with wadding as you go.
ROUNDS 37-42: Work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each stitch until you have 2 stitches left before the marker under the tail, work 2 double crochets together (= 2 stitches decreased each round). After round 42 there are 6 stitches left.
Fill the rest of the dinosaur with wadding. Cut the strand and pull it through the last stitch. Use the end of the strand to sew the last 6 stitches together. Fasten the strand well

SPINES:
There are 60 stitches around the frill. Use crochet hook size 3.5 mm and turquoise.
Start from the right side at the bottom of the frill, there should be 19 stitches mid under the nose in which no spines should be worked. Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch and work 1 double crochet in the same stitch, * skip 1 stitch and in the next stitch work: 2 treble crochets, 1 double-treble crochet, 3 chain stitches and work 1 slip stitch in the previous double-treble crochet as follows: insert the hook in the top of the double-treble crochet and then through the top loop of the same double-treble crochet (through 2 loops), pick up the strand and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook), 1 double-treble crochet, 2 treble crochets, skip 1 stitch and work 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, work from*-* a total of 10 times. Cut the strand and pull it through the last loop. Fasten the strand.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 37-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (1)

Guenda 18.12.2020 - 00:43:

Salve, lo schema della coda passa dal giro 24 al 27. In totale lavoro 42 o 44 giri? I due giri che mancano come li lavoro? Grazie.

DROPS Design 18.12.2020 kl. 08:56:

Buongiorno Guenda, abbiamo corretto la numerazione dei giri nella coda, le spiegazioni erano corrette. I giri totali sono 42. Grazie per la segnalazione. Buon lavoro!

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