Bob the Dinosaur by DROPS Design

Crocheted T-Rex dinosaur in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from nose to tail with one seam. Theme: Soft toys.

Tags: animals, toys,
  • Bob the Dinosaur / DROPS Children 37-21 - Crocheted T-Rex dinosaur in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from nose to tail with one seam. Theme: Soft toys.
  • Bob the Dinosaur / DROPS Children 37-21 - Crocheted T-Rex dinosaur in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from nose to tail with one seam. Theme: Soft toys.
  • Bob the Dinosaur / DROPS Children 37-21 - Crocheted T-Rex dinosaur in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from nose to tail with one seam. Theme: Soft toys.
  • Bob the Dinosaur / DROPS Children 37-21 - Crocheted T-Rex dinosaur in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from nose to tail with one seam. Theme: Soft toys.
  • Bob the Dinosaur / DROPS Children 37-21 - Crocheted T-Rex dinosaur in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked from nose to tail with one seam. Theme: Soft toys.
DROPS Design: Pattern no me-077-bn
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Height: approx. 18 cm
Length: approx. 18 cm

MATERIALS:
DROPS Merino Extra Fine from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50 g colour 31 forest green – for body
50 g colour 41 olive – for legs and spines
And use:
Leftover black for the eyes.

CROCHET TENSION:
20 double crochets in width and 20 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

ACCESSORIES: Wadding.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET TIP (for chain stitches):
1 chain stitch should equal 1 double crochet in width. Make sure the chain-stitch loop is pulled up the hook so it is not tight. If the chain stitches are tight the pattern will be tight in sections with a lot of chain stitches.

CROCHET TOGETHER:
Work 2 double crochets together to 1 double crochet:
Insert the hook through the first stitch and pick up the strand, insert the hook through the next stitch and pick up the strand (= 3 loops on the hook), make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops (= 1 stitch decreased).

LOOP STITCH:
Sew with a single black strand. The eye is embroidered over rows 1 and 2 on the face and there are 5 stitches between each eye. See diagram showing how to work loop stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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DINOSAUR – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked from nose to tail with one seam under the body. First you work 4 legs. Then the dinosaur is started at the nose followed by the head. The neck and body are continued from the head, attaching the legs as you go. Then the under-body is worked and tail and the back crocheted together. The spines along the back are worked to finish.

FRONT LEGS:
Work 2 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and olive - read CROCHET TIP.
In the first chain stitch work 5 double crochets, making a small circle of stitches. Finish the circle with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet, closing the circle and finishing ROUND 1.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch then 2 double crochets in each stitch. The round is finished with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 10 stitches on the round. Cut the strand and change to forest green.
ROUND 3: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, * work from *-* to end of round (= 15 stitches). Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUNDS 4-9: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 15 stitches). Cut the strand and pull it through the last loop.
Work 2 legs like this and fill with wadding.

BACK LEGS:
Worked as FRONT LEGS, but work one more round with olive before changing to forest green.

NOSE:
Work 2 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and forest green - read CROCHET TIP.
In the first chain stitch work 5 double crochets, making a small circle of stitches. Finish the circle with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet, closing the circle and finishing ROUND 1.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch, then 2 double crochets in each stitch (= 10 stitches). Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.
ROUND 3: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, * work from *-* to end of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 15 stitches).
ROUND 4: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches *, work from *-* to end of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 20 stitches).
ROUND 5: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches *, work from *-* to end of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 25 stitches).
ROUND 6: Work 1 chain stitch, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches *, work from *-* to end of round. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 30 stitches).
ROUNDS 7-11: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 30 stitches).
ROUND 12: Work 1 chain stitch, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, work the next 2 double crochets together – read CROCHET TOGETHER in descriptions above *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left. Work 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 stitches and finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 23 stitches in the circle).
ROUND 13: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all the stitches. Finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round (= 23 stitches).

FACE:
From here you continue working back and forth.
ROWS 1-4: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the 23 stitches. Turn.
ROWS 5-6: Work 1 chain stitch, work 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left and 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 2 increased stitches per row and 27 stitches). Turn.
ROWS 7-8: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch. Turn.
Now embroider 2 eyes on the face using LOOP STITCH – read description above.

NECK:
Along the side of the FACE there are 8 rows; you now continue back and forth along both sides of the face; i.e. a total of 16 rows:
ROW 1: Work 2 double crochets in the last row worked on the face, * 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 rows, 2 double crochets in the next row *, work from *-* to end of row = 22 stitches. Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left, 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Turn.
Continue with ROWS 2 and 3 until you have worked a total of 6 rows (= 26 stitches). Turn.

BODY:
Now the 2 front legs are attached to the body, working back and forth.
ROW 1: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, fold one of the front legs double and lay it on the body so the next 6 double crochets are worked through 3 layers, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches (= mid-front/between the legs), fold the other front leg double and lay it on the body so the next 6 double crochets are worked through 3 layers, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches, 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 28 stitches). Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Turn.
ROW 3: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left, 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 2 stitches increased). Turn.
Continue with ROWS 2 and 3 until you have worked a total of 5 rows on the body (= a total of 32 stitches on ROW 5). Turn.
ROW 6: On this row you increase for the stomach as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 7 times, work 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 7 stitches, 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 10 stitches increased and 42 stitches on the row). Turn.
ROW 7: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Turn.
ROW 8: On this row you also increase for the stomach as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 16 stitches, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, 1 double crochet in each of the next 16 stitches, 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 6 stitches increased and 48 stitches on the row). Turn.
ROW 9: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Turn.
ROW 10: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left, 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 2 stitches increased and 50 stitches on the row). Turn.
ROW 11: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Turn.
ROW 12: Work 1 chain stitch, 2 double crochets in the first stitch, 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left, 2 double crochets in the last stitch (= 2 stitches increased and 52 stitches on the row). Turn.
ROW 13: Now attach the back legs to the body. Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 15 stitches, fold one of the back legs double and lay it on the body so the next 6 double crochets are worked through 3 layers, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 10 stitches (= mid-front/between the legs), fold the other back leg double and lay it on the body so the next 6 double crochets are worked through 3 layers, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 15 stitches. Turn.

UNDER-BODY:
ROWS 1-3: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Turn.
ROW 4: On this row you decrease for a flat bottom as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 18 stitches, * crochet together the next 2 double crochets - read CROCHET TOGETHER in description above *, work from *-* a total of 8 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 18 stitches (= 8 stitches decreased and 44 stitches on the row). Turn.
ROW 5: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Turn.
ROW 6: On this row you also decrease for a flat bottom as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 14 stitches, * crochet together the next 2 double crochets *, work from *-* a total of 8 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 14 stitches (= 8 stitches decreased and 36 stitches on the row). Turn.
ROW 7: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in all stitches. Turn.
ROW 8: On this row you also decrease for a flat bottom as follows:
Work 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the first 14 stitches, * crochet together the next 2 stitches *, work from *-* a total of 4 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 14 stitches (= 4 stitches decreased and 32 stitches on the row). Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bottom double, length-wise, and sew together stitch for stitch.

TAIL:
Use crochet hook size 3.5 mm and forest green. Along the sides of the UNDER-BODY there are 8 rows (on each side of the seam) and you now work back and forth along both sides; a total of 16 rows:
ROW 1: Work 1 double crochet in each row (= 16 stitches). Turn.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch, crochet together the first 2 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each stitch until there are 2 stitches left and work together the last 2 double crochets (= 2 stitches decreased). Turn.
Work ROWS 1 and 2 for a total of 12 rows and with 4 stitches left on the last row. Cut and fasten the strand.

BACK:
Use crochet hook size 3.5 mm and forest green. Work 1 row of double crochets along the whole opening on the back, starting by the tail as follows:
ROW 1: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch or row – from the tail to the top of the head and back along the other side to the tail. There are approx. 45 stitches on each side of the back and 90 stitches around the whole opening. Turn.
Now fill the dinosaur with wadding while continuing as follows:
ROW 2: Fold the dinosaur double and work a row of double crochets through both layers, from the tail to the head, so the back is closed = approx. 45 stitches. Cut and fasten the strand.

SPINES:
Using olive and crochet hook size 3.5 mm, start at the tip of the tail and work as follows:
* Work 1 double crochet, skip 1 stitch and work in the next stitch: 2 treble crochets, 1 double-treble crochet, 2 chain stitches, 1 double-treble crochet and 2 treble crochets. Skip 1 stitch and work 1 double crochet in the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, then repeat from *-* up the back but skipping 2 stitches instead of 1 as far as the head.
When there are too few stitches to repeat by the head, finish with double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 25.11.2020
UNDER-BODY: ROW 6: ...work from *-* a total of 8 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 14 stitches (= 8 stitches decreased and 36 stitches on the row). Turn.

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 37-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Nora 21.07.2021 - 06:43:

Hei, miksi en ymmärrä vartalon ohkeesta 3 ja 6 kerrosta? Ensin täytyisi olla 32s rivissä, sitten vatsan lisäykset jolloin rivillä 36s lopuksi, kuitenkin sanotaan eytä silmukat kavennetaan 8s?niin ka nuo kaikki silmukat eivät edes mahdu tuohon 32 silmukkaan? Menee aivot nurin kun en ymmärrä?

country flag Isabelle 21.05.2021 - 18:20:

Merci pour vos précisions ! C'est bon je me suis sortie du problème ! J'avais semé une grosse erreur dans la partie TETE : j'avais continué à crocheter en rond (en fermant par une maille coulée les rangs 1à8 de la tête !)... je n'avais donc pas 2 pans donc pas de coté de tete ! ;) merci pour votre aide.

country flag Isabelle 20.05.2021 - 19:42:

PS: le probleme du 1er rang du COU est par rapport aux "cotés" de la tête... je ne comprends pas où sont les côtés de la tête...et pourquoi 16 rangs ? ... merci pour votre aide

user icon DROPS Design 21.05.2021 kl. 07:42:

Bonjour Isabelle, la réponse précédente a-t-elle pu vous aider?

country flag Isabelle Mulin 20.05.2021 - 19:33:

Bonjour! J'ai le même probleme que Annick ! Je ne comprends toujours pas le 1er rang pour commencer le COU de Bob... votre réponse à la question redit la même chose que les explications de base. On crochette le 1er rang sur la Tête fermée? .... merci d'avance pour votre aide ... je suis bloquée : impossible de faire le cou.

user icon DROPS Design 21.05.2021 kl. 07:35:

Bonjour Mme Mulin, la fin des rangs de la tête sera assemblée par la suite (sur la photo = côté crête du dinosaure). Vous allez maintenant crocheter uniquement le long des 8 rangs à droite de la tête + le long des 8 rangs à gauche de la tête = 16 rangs au total, en commençant par le côté droit de la tête (sur l'envers), le long des 8 rangs (débuts des rangs sur l'endroit/fin sur l'envers) + en remontant de l'autre côté des 8 rangs (fins des rangs sur l'endroit/début sur l'envers). Laissez le côté dos ouvert (toujours côté crête, cf photo). Bon crochet!

country flag Annick 27.04.2021 - 23:26:

Bonjour. Pour bob le dinosaure je ne comprends pas le rang 1 pour le cou. Pourriez vous me dire exactement comment on fait ce rang par une vidéo ou un dessin..ou des explications plus denses. Merci beaucoup

user icon DROPS Design 28.04.2021 kl. 08:02:

Bonjour Annick, vous avez crocheté le nez en rond puis 8 rangs pour la tête, pour le cou, vous allez maintenant crochetez le long des rangs de la tête (dans les côtés de la partie "tête"). Donc après le dernier rang de la tête, tournez et crochetez 2 ms dans le 8ème rang, puis vous continuez en crochetant 1 ms dans le 7ème rang + 1 dans le 6ème rang, 2 ms dans le 5ème rang et continuez ainsi en descendant jusqu'au 1er rang et remontez ensuite le long de l'autre côté, du 1er au 8ème rang, vous avez crocheté à droite du nez/de la tête pour continuer le cou et le corps. Bon crochet!

country flag Molin 27.04.2021 - 22:37:

Bonjour. Au tour 12 pour le nez...je ne comprends pas comment on fait pour passer de 30 à 23 mailles en retirant 1 maille sur 2..en faisant ça j'arrive à 15 mailles. Pourrai je avoir des explications ? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 28.04.2021 kl. 08:12:

Bonjour Mme Molin, au 12ème tour, vous diminuez en crochetant ainsi: *1 ms dans les 2 m suiv, 2 ms écoulées ens* jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 2 mailles (= 7 fois = au-dessus des 28 premières mailles, autrement dit vous diminuez 7 mailles serrées), puis vous terminez par 1 maille serrée dans chacune des 2 dernières mailles = il vous reste 23 mailles. Bon crochet!

country flag Kourtney 03.03.2021 - 14:57:

I have made this dinosaur already 4 times and this is my fifth time. every time I make it the tail ends up pointing down in an L like shape instead of going straight back like in the photo. I don't understand how you're getting the tail to go straight back?

user icon DROPS Design 04.03.2021 kl. 15:35:

Dear Kourtney, make sure you are crocheting the tail from the top towards the bottom then up again in the rows of body - maybe you can bring your dinosaur to your store/send them a picture by mail, they might be able to help you better seing how you did it. Happy crocheting!

country flag Marlies Jongetjes 24.01.2021 - 15:31:

Toer 6 ( lijf) klopt nog steeds niet na correctie! Je moet namelijk uitkomen op 42 st.,vanwege toer 8 Zo moet het :TOER 6: Op deze toer meerdert u voor de maag als volgt: Haak 1 losse, 2 vasten in de eerste steek, 1 vaste in elk van de volgende 7 steken, * 2 vasten in de volgende steek, 1 vaste in de volgende steek *, haak van *-* in totaal 8 keer, haak 1 vaste in elk van de volgende 7 steken, 2 v in laatste st, keer het werk(= 10steken gemeerderd en 42 steken op de toer).

country flag Teresa Beddis 20.01.2021 - 12:48:

I have got as far as the neck but don’t know whether to continue working on the face stitches or the neck If I work on the face edge I will have a seam to close down the spine. The pattern describes the seam as being underneath. Is there a how to video for this.

user icon DROPS Design 20.01.2021 kl. 14:43:

Dear Mrs Beddis, you will crochet a row of double crochet on back piece afterwards, ie after neck, continue working back and forth adding the legs as described. Happy crocheting!

country flag Elisabeth 13.01.2021 - 19:36:

The yarn for the body is not enough. I was able to finish the tail, but I don't have enough yarn leftover for the back bit, so I need to figure out what to do. Better buy 2 balls of forest green!

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