DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Back to School

Knitted vest / slipover with Pepita pattern in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 218-22
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-900
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 506, dark grey
100-100-150-150-150-150 g colour 9026, blush

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 45 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.60£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 118 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 20) = 5.9. 
In this example decrease by knitting approx. each 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch by making 1 yarn over; on the next row work the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. The increased stitches are worked into the pattern as you go. 

KNITTING TIP:
When increasing in the side the pattern continues upwards as before, the same applies when decreasing for the armholes and neck. If the outermost stitch in the sides or neck is a stitch which should be slipped, replace it with a knitted stitch in the colour the row is being worked in.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked back and forth separately, bottom up. The shoulders and sides are sewn, then the neck and sleeve edges are worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 118-130-142-154-170-186 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and dark grey. Knit 1 row from the right side. Then work rib starting from the wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch until the rib measures 5 cm in all sizes.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm, knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 20-24-28-28-28-32 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP in the explanations above = 98-106-114-126-142-154 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Now continue according to diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3 as follows from the right side: Work A.1, then work A.2 until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finally A.3. Continue this pattern until the piece measures approx. 8 cm from the cast-on edge in all sizes.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Read KNITTING TIP and INCREASE TIP in explanations above!
On the next row increase 1 stitch on each side by working 2 stitches in both of the outermost stitches (the increased stitches are worked into the pattern). Repeat the increase every 9-9½-10-10½-11-11½ cm a total of 3 times in all sizes = 104-112-120-132-148-160 stitches.
Continue the pattern until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm from the cast-on edge. Cast off 5-6-7-9-11-14 stitches on each side for the armholes, then cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of each row a total of 4-4-5-7-10-11 times = 86-92-96-100-106-110 stitches. Continue the pattern until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the cast-on edge, then on the next row from the right side work as follows: Work the first 22-24-26-27-29-31 stitches as before (= right shoulder), and place these stitches on a thread. Cast off the next 42-44-44-46-48-48 stitches for the neck, work the last 22-24-26-27-29-31 stitches as before. Each shoulder is finished separately.

LEFT SHOULDER (back piece):
Start from the wrong side and cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next row from the right side = 21-23-25-26-28-30 stitches. Work until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the cast-on edge, cast off with knit in the same colour as the previous row. Cut and fasten the strands.

RIGHT SHOULDER (back piece):
Place the 22-24-26-27-29-31 stitches from the threadback on circular needle size 3.5 mm. The first rowis worked from the wrong side and cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of thefirst row = 21-23-25-26-28-30 stitches. Work until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62cm from the cast-on edge (making sure the two shoulders match), cast off with knit in the same colour as the previousrow. Cutand fasten the strands.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 118-130-142-154-170-186 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and dark grey. Knit 1 row from the right side. Then work rib starting from the wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, knit 1, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 2, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch until the rib measures 5 cm in all sizes.
Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm, knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 20-24-28-28-28-32 stitches evenly spaced = 98-106-114-126-142-154 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.
Now continue according to diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3 as follows from the right side: Work A.1, then work A.2 until there is 1 stitch left on the row and finally A.3. Continue this pattern until the piece measures approx. 8 cm from the cast-on edge in all sizes.
On the next row increase 1 stitch on each side by working 2 stitches in both of the outermost stitches (the increased stitches are worked into the pattern). Repeat the increase every 9-9½-10-10½-11-11½ cm a total of 3 times in all sizes = 104-112-120-132-148-160 stitches.
Continue the pattern until the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm from the cast-on edge. Cast off 5-6-7-9-11-14 stitches on each side for the armholes, then cast off 1 stitch at the beginning of each row a total of 4-4-5-7-10-11 times = 86-92-96-100-106-110 stitches. Continue the pattern until the piece measures 42-44-45-47-48-50 cm from the cast-on edge, then on the next row from the right side work as follows: Work the first 30-33-34-36-38-40 stitches as before (= left shoulder) and place these stitches on a thread. Cast off the next 26-26-28-28-30-30 stitches for the neck and work the last 30-33-34-36-38-40 stitches as before (= right shoulder). Each shoulder is finished separately.

RIGHT SHOULDER (front piece):
= 30-33-34-36-38-40 stitches. Continue with the pattern (the first row is from the wrong side) and cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the right side: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1-2-2-2-2-2 times and 1 stitch 4-3-2-3-3-3 times = 21-23-25-26-28-30 stitches. Continue the pattern until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the cast-on, cast off with knit in the same colour as the previous row and the same colour as on the back piece. Cut and fasten the strands.

LEFT SHOULDER (front piece):
Place the 30-33-34-36-38-40 stitches from the thread back on circular needle size 3.5 mm. Start from the wrong side and cast off at the beginning of each row from the wrong side: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1-2-2-2-2-2 times and 1 stitch 4-3-2-3-3-3 times = 21-23-25-26-28-30 stitches. Continue with the pattern until the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the cast-on edge (make sure the two shoulders match), cast off with knit in the same colour as the previous row and the same colour as on the back piece. Cut and fasten the strands.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams with the same colour you used to cast off with. Sew the side seams, starting where stitches were cast off for the armholes and sewing inside 1 stitch.

NECK:
Using circular needle size 3 mm and dark grey, start from the right side at the shoulder seam and knit up approx. 144-160 stitches inside 1 stitch around the whole neck.
Purl 1 round and adjust the number of stitches so it is divisible by 4. Then work rib (2 knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE EDGES:
Using circular needle size 3 mm and dark grey, start from the right side at the side seam and knit up approx. 124-180 stitches inside 1 stitch around the whole armhole. Purl 1 round and adjust the number of stitches so it is divisible by 4. Then work rib (2 knit 2, purl 2) in the round for 2 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, knit from the wrong side with blush
symbols = knit from the right side, knit from the wrong side with dark grey
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to purl, make sure the strand you are working with is on the wrong side (away from you when working from the right side)
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to purl, make sure the strand you are working with is on the wrong side (towards you when working from the wrong side)
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Paula wrote:

Buongiorno, non sono sicura di aver capito la spiegazione del diagramma. Le prime 4 righe sono da lavorare con il colore blush e le altre 4 righe con il colore grigio scuro? Sono un pochettino confusa con le spiegazioni. Grazie mille

14.01.2024 - 14:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Paula, si è corretta la sequenza di colori. Buon lavoro!

02.03.2024 - 11:47

country flag Maria Elena Fancello wrote:

Grazie mille per la risposta

10.01.2024 - 23:32

country flag Maria Elena Fancello wrote:

Salve. Grazie di cuore per l'enorme e prezioso servizio che offrite. Avrei un dubbio sicuramente dovuto alla mia esperienza limitata. Nelle istruzioni relative ai gilet leggo sempre che dopo il bordo a coste è necessario diminuire il numero delle maglie. Come mai? In tal modo non si restringe il modello proprio quando dovrebbe essere più ampio per seguire la linea del corpo? Grazie per l'attenzione. Sicuramente da esperti quali siete mi consentirete di apprendere qualcosa di più.

05.01.2024 - 12:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Elena, il bordo a coste tende a "tirare" il lavoro, questo è il motivo per cui si avviano più maglie e poi si diminuiscono alla fine del bordo per impedire al lavoro di contrarsi. Buon lavoro!

10.01.2024 - 16:40

country flag Maria Elena Fancello wrote:

Salve. Grazie di cuore per l\'enorme e prezioso servizio che offrite. Qvrei un dubbio sicuramente dovuto alla mmia esperienza limitata. Nelle ustruzioni relative ai gilet leggo sempre che dopo il bordo a coste è necessario diminuire il numero delle maglie. Come mai? In tal modo non si restringe il modello proprio quando dovrebbe essere più ampio per seguire la linea del corpo? Grazie per l\'attenzione. Sicuramente da esperti quali siete mi consentirete di apprendere qualcosa dipiù.

05.01.2024 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Elena, il bordo a coste tende a "tirare" il lavoro, questo è il motivo per cui si avviano più maglie e poi si diminuiscono alla fine del bordo per impedire al lavoro di contrarsi. Buon lavoro!

10.01.2024 - 16:35

country flag Jacqueline wrote:

Waarom moet je voor-en achterpand op een rondbreinaald breien. Voor de hals en mouwen snap ik. alvast bedankt, Jacqueline

25.02.2022 - 14:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jacqueline,

Dit is vanwege het grote aantal steken dat je op de naald hebt (met name bij de grotere maten). Bij rechte naalden past dat niet.

26.02.2022 - 15:38

country flag Any De Lezel Couture , Marie Darchy wrote:

Bonjour, je voulais savoir si je pouvais remplacer le point fantaisie par du jersey. Je vous remercie pour votre réponse.

10.02.2022 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Darchy, il serait alors peut-être plus simple de consulter nos pulls sans manches certains d'entre eux sont en jersey, vous y trouverez fort probablement votre bonheur. Bon tricot!

10.02.2022 - 09:30

country flag Ruth wrote:

Stemmer det at mønsteret ikke blir likt i sidene? Ikke like langt til «løs» maske. Midt på vesten vil ikke være midt mellom to «løse» masker. Var dette forståelig?

26.10.2021 - 23:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ruth, det kan stemme, men du skal sy siderne sammen indenfor en maske, så det kommer du ikke til at se. God fornøjelse!

28.10.2021 - 13:32

country flag Elvira wrote:

Hallo, ich bin gerade etwas verwirrt, da das Diagramm A1 genau dem Diagramm A3 entspricht und ich das nicht verstehe, warum zwei Mal das gleiche abgebildet ist. Oder sehe ich da etwas nicht richtig? Wenn ich recht habe, warum hat man einmal A1 und das gleiche nochmals A3 genannt? Oder liegt hier ein Fehler vor? Vielen Dank für die Mühe!

22.02.2021 - 15:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elvira, A.1 zeigt wie man die Hinreihen anfängt (und wie man die Rückreihe endet), und A.3 zeit wie man die Hinreihen endet (und wie man die Rückreihe anfängt), dh mit 1 Masche kraus rechts entweder mit blush oder mit dunkegrau. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

22.02.2021 - 16:09

country flag Linda Fagerlie wrote:

Jeg skrev allerede at jeg strikker str. M. Se min kommentar ovenfor

18.02.2021 - 10:41

country flag Linda Fagerlie wrote:

Hei, jeg har kjøpt garn til str M i denne vesten, men sitter igjen med en for mye av den grå og en for lite av den rosa/blush. Har dere fått andre kommentarer på det?

17.02.2021 - 09:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Linda, Det har vi ikke fået kommentarer på før, men skriv gerne hvilken størrelse du strikker, så ved vi hvilken vi skal se nærmere på.

18.02.2021 - 08:57