DROPS / 210 / 18

City Streets by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked with textured pattern and short sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.

  • City Streets / DROPS 210-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked with textured pattern and short sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • City Streets / DROPS 210-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked with textured pattern and short sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
  • City Streets / DROPS 210-18 - Knitted jacket in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked with textured pattern and short sleeves. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-133
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 21, sage green

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with textured pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for textured pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 6 items in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.60 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.60 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body and mid under sleeves):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work as far as the stitch with the marker, make 1 yarn over, work the stitch with the marker in garter stitch as before, 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at marker).
On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. The new stitches are worked into A.1 as you go. 

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = start from the right side and knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge then make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over = hole.
Work buttonholes when the piece measures:
XS: 2, 8, 14½, 20½, 27 and 34 cm
S: 2, 8½, 15, 21½, 28 and 35 cm
M: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 36 cm
L: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 38 cm
XL: 2, 9, 16½, 23½, 31 and 39 cm
XXL: 2, 9½, 17, 24½, 32 and 40 cm
NOTE: The last buttonhole is worked on the neck.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The body is worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up as far as the armholes. You then cast off for armholes and the back and front pieces are finished separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, bottom up to the beginning of the sleeve cap. Then the sleeve cap is worked back and forth with circular needle to finish. The piece is sewn together at the shoulders and the sleeves are sewn in. The neck is worked in rib to finish.

BODY:
Cast on 137-153-163-177-195-217 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm and Brushed Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm – remember BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished, change to circular needle size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker in the 37th-41st-43rd-47th-51st-57th stitch in from each side (i.e. in a purled stitch seen from the right side). There are 63-71-77-83-93-103 stitches on the back piece between the stitches with markers. The markers should follow upwards in the piece; they will be used when increasing in the sides of the body.

The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the row, A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 5 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5-5-6-6-6-7 cm a total of 4 times on each side = 153-169-179-193-211-233 stitches.
Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm.
Now cast off for the armholes on the next row as follows: Work 38-41-43-47-51-57 stitches as before (= front piece), cast off 5-7-7-7-7-7 stitches for the armhole (stitch with marker in the middle of these 5-7-7-7-7-7 stitches), work 67-73-79-85-95-105 stitches as before, cast off 5-7-7-7-7-7 stitches for the armhole and then work the remaining 38-41-43-47-51-57 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish the back and front pieces separately as described below.

BACK PIECE:
= 67-73-79-85-95-105 stitches. Continue A.1 back and forth as before and cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row on each side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-1-1 times, 2 stitches 0-1-2-2-2-3 times and 1 stitch 1-2-2-2-3-5 times = 65-65-67-73-75-77 stitches left.
When the piece measures 41-43-45-47-49-51 cm, cast off the middle 23-23-25-25-25-27 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately.
Continue A.1 and cast off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 19-19-19-22-23-23 stitches left on shoulder. Work until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then cast off with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-41-43-47-51-57 stitches. Continue A.1 back and forth as before with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-2-2-3 times and 1 stitch 1-2-2-2-3-5 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 32-33-34-36-37-38 cm, place the outermost 8-8-8-8-8-9 stitches towards mid front on 1 thread for the neck; to avoid cutting the strand work the stitches before placing them on the thread.
Continue A.1 and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 4-4-4-5-4-5 times.
After all the decreases for armhole and neck have been finished there are 19-19-19-22-23-23 stitches left on the shoulder. Work until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side then loosely cast off with knit from the right side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-41-43-47-51-57 stitches. Continue A.1 back and forth as before with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for the armhole at the beginning of each row from the side as follows: Cast off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 stitches 0-1-2-2-2-3 times and 1 stitch 1-2-2-2-3-5 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 32-33-34-36-37-38 cm, place the outermost 8-8-8-8-8-9 stitches mid front on 1 thread for the neck. Continue A.1 and cast off for the neck at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 3 times and 1 stitch 4-4-4-5-4-5 times.
After all the decreases for armhole and neck have been finished there are 19-19-19-22-23-23 stitches left on the shoulder. Work until there is 1 row left before the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Then loosely cast off with knit from the right side.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 42-46-46-50-52-54 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm and Brushed Alpaca Silk. Knit 1 round then work rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 1) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and insert a marker in the last stitch on the round (= 1 purled stitch). Work A.1A in the round with knit over knit and garter stitch over purl. When the piece measures 6-6-6-6-8-8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the stitch with the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 2½-2½-1½-1½-1-1 cm a total of 6-6-8-8-10-10 times = 54-58-62-66-72-74 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 22-21-20-20-19-18 cm but finish the round when there are still 2-3-3-3-3-3 stitches left before the stitch with the marker. NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to broader shoulders and longer sleeve cap.
On the next round cast off the first 7 stitches, then continue with pattern as before to the end of the round.
Now work the sleeve cap back and forth with circular needle as follows: Continue A.1 as before and cast off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row on both sides as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 2-3-3-3-3-3 times on each side and 1 stitch 1-2-2-2-2-4 times on each side. Then cast off 2 stitches on each side until the sleeve measures 27-28-28-28-28-29 cm. Cast off 3 stitches 1 time on each side and then cast off the remaining stitches. The sleeve measures approx. 28-29-29-29-29-30 cm from the top down. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew in the sleeves, inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side approx. 83 to 99 stitches around the neck (including the stitches from the threads in front) with circular needle size 4 mm and Brushed Alpaca Silk.
Start from the wrong side and work as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, purl 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch; remember to work the last buttonhole in the neck.
Work until the neck measures 3½ to 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit, purl over purl and garter stitch over garter stitch.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.04.2020
Correction: BODY:... Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch...

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 210-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (52)

country flag CHRISTINE 31.03.2021 - 17:58:

Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse. Très bonne journée Cdlt

country flag Christine 31.03.2021 - 12:58:

Bonjour Vous proposez ce modèle en français mais je ne le trouve qu'en anglais. Je désire le modèle français s'il vous plait comme inscrit dans le doc. Cdlt

user icon DROPS Design 31.03.2021 kl. 15:39:

Bonjour Christine, ce modele en francais est disponible ICI. Bon travail!

country flag Catalina 28.03.2021 - 13:41:

Hola! Tengo duda de como rematar para el delantero una vez sacados los 8 puntos para el escote. Se remata tejiendo 2 puntos juntos ,como disminución o pasando el penultimo punto sobre el último tejido? Gracias.

user icon DROPS Design 28.03.2021 kl. 20:32:

Hola Catalina, se remata pasando el último pt sobre el penúltimo.

country flag Giusi 13.03.2021 - 07:39:

Buongiorno, ma dov'è il diagramma per questo modello?

user icon DROPS Design 13.03.2021 kl. 10:22:

Buongiorno Giusi, il diagramma è di fianco allo schema delle misure, in basso a destra. Buon lavoro!

country flag Irene Pilgaard Nissen 02.03.2021 - 11:42:

Hvilket andet garn vil kunne bruges til denne model? Jeg vil gerne bruge noget der ikke er så loddent og fnugger. Mvh Irene

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 14:40:

Hej Irene, Ja du kan bruge alle vores DROPS kvaliteter fra Garngruppe C. Prøv garnomregneren. Vælg DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. Vælg antal gram i din størrelse og vælg 1 tråd, så får du masser af alternativer op :)

country flag Valentina 01.03.2021 - 14:33:

Buongiorno, sto lavorando il modello 210-18 city streets, taglia M con filato Drops brushed Alpaca silk. Io sto lavorando con un filo solo, ma a questo punto dovendo iniziare le maniche e trovandomi con la metà esatta dei gomitoli in avanzo credo che qualcosa nel pattern non vada: o il metraggio del modello è errato oppure dovevate indicare che si lavora a due fili ...

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 21:25:

Buonasera Valentina, il modello è lavorato con 1 filo, e la quantità di filato è corretta. Buon lavoro!

country flag Maryline 08.02.2021 - 13:54:

Bonjour, quand je fais les augmentations comme indiqué, mon point fantaisie se décale, est-ce normal ? Merci pour votre aide !

user icon DROPS Design 08.02.2021 kl. 15:21:

Bonjour Maryline, les augmentations du raglan ne doivent pas décaler le point fantaisie, vous devez toujours alternativement 1 maille jersey endroit (1ère m de A.1A ou A.1B) et 1 maille point mousse (2ème m de A.1A), tant que vous n'aurez pas augmenté 2 mailles, le motif sera un peu contrarié mais dès que vous aurez augmenté 2 m, le nombre de mailles tombera de nouveau juste et le motif aussi. Bon tricot!

country flag Karen 06.02.2021 - 05:44:

Ayuda por favor. Además del punto.musgo q se usa para los.bordes...¿.para el cuerpo es sólo punto jersey? ¿Tendrán un video tutorial? Gracias desee ya por su atención.

country flag Iliana De La Cruz 02.02.2021 - 17:56:

Hi, I have a question regarding the beginning "Cast on 137-153-163-177-195-217 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards the mid-front)" I'd like to know if I cast on the x number of stitches plus 10 (5 each side) that go on the sides mid-front? Or are those ten include in the original casting?

user icon DROPS Design 02.02.2021 kl. 20:52:

Dear Iliana, when yiu read this sentence "Cast on 137-153-163-177-195-217 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards the mid-front)" it does states that the number already INCLUDES the number of stitches for the edges or bands, you do not have to add to the number anything, but cast as as much as stated. I gope this helpd. Happy Knitting!

country flag Nicole 25.01.2021 - 14:10:

Bei den Zunahmen beim Rumpfteil steht: "beidseitig jeden Markierers 1 M zunehmen =4 Zunahmen. " Das verstehe ich nicht! Es sind doch 12 Markierer angebracht ( M 37-51 6 Stk auf beiden Seiten=12). Dann habe ich doch bei einer Zunahmerunde schon 24 M zugenommen.

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 16:09:

Liebe Nicole, es sind nur 2 Markierer in jede Größe, dh in 1. Größe sind sie in die 37. Masche von beiden Seiten (= 63 M für den Rückenteil zwischen den beiden Markierungen); in die 2. Größe sind sie in die 41. Masche von beiden Seiten (= 71 Maschen für den Rückentil zwischen den beiden Markierungen) usw. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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