DROPS / 212 / 3

Tulip Ring by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and trumpet-sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-261
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 5.30 € /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 5.30 € /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 26.50€. Read more.

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1).

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 76 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 19. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 19th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Knit 1 round, then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) in the round for 3 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 4-8-0-3-6-9 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 80-88-84-91-98-105 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted).
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (after the rib); the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work A.1 (choose diagram for your size) a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times on the round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been completed there are 210-231-252-273-294-315 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 20 cm from the marker. Continue with stocking stitch and work in the different sizes as follows:

Size S:
Knit 1 round where you increase 6 stitches evenly spaced = 216 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 21 cm from the marker. Then work as described below:

Sizes M, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 21-22-23-24-25 cm, increase 7-10-9-16-17 stitches evenly spaced = 238-262-282-310-332 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 22-24-26-28-30 cm from the marker. Then work as described below.

All sizes:
Now divide the yoke for body and sleeves. In sizes M, XL and XXXL there are an odd number of A.1 on the round; to make the pattern symmetrical mid-front displace the beginning of the round so it is no longer mid-back in these sizes.
The next round is worked as follows: Work the first 31-25-37-31-45-41 stitches (= approx. half back piece), place the next 46-50-56-60-64-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the next 62-69-75-81-91-100 stitches (= front piece), place the next 46-50-56-60-64-66 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under the sleeve), work the remaining 31-44-38-50-46-59 stitches (= approx. half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 140-154-166-182-202-220 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 16-18-18-18-22-24 stitches evenly spaced = 156-172-184-200-224-244 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 46-50-56-60-64-66 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches under the sleeve(4-4-4-5-5-5 new stitches on each side of the thread). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing under the sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-2-2-2 cm from the division, start to decrease under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 5-5-1½-1-1-1 cm a total of 2-3-6-9-7-5 times = 50-52-52-52-60-66 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 14-14-12-10-9-7 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke), knit 1 round where you adjust the number of stitches to 52-52-52-52-56-60 stitches (i.e. in size S increase 2 stitches, in sizes M, L, XL do not increase or decrease and in sizes XXL and XXXL decrease 4-6 stitches). Now work pattern in the round as follows: * Knit 0-0-0-0-1-2, work A.2 *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round. When A.2 has been completed in height there are 68-68-68-68-72-76 stitches on the needles.
Knit 1 round where you increase 4 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = 72-72-72-72-76-80 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures 34-34-32-30-29-27 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over – leaves a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 212-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Ina Haringsma 30.04.2020 - 20:01:

Ik heb boord gebreid (maat XXXL). Daarna 9 steken gemeerderd totaal 105 steken. Nu begin ik aan de pas volgens tel patroon. Hoe is het mogelijk dat ik na 28cm pas breien 315 steken op mijn naald heb?

DROPS Design 05.05.2020 kl. 12:43:

Dag Ina,

Als het goed is heb je na het breien van A.1 in de hoogte 315 steken op de naald en is je werk 20 cm vanaf de markeerdraad, dus ongeveer 23 cm vanaf de opzetnaald. Kan het zijn dat de stekenverhouding in de hoogte niet klopt?

Ina Haringsma 25.04.2020 - 20:43:

Wie in Nerderland kan mij helpen met de trui Tulip Ring/Drops 212?

DROPS Design 28.04.2020 kl. 20:35:

Dag Ina,

Je kan je vragen hier op het forum stellen. Waar kom je precies niet uit? Als je wat specifieker aangeeft waar je tegenaan loopt kunnen we je beter helpen. Bekijk evt. ook de video's die bij het patroon staan.

Fatma AlMassry 26.03.2020 - 17:29:

Can i order one and ship it to Egypt

DROPS Design 27.03.2020 kl. 09:31:

Dear Mrs AllMassry, you will find the list of our DROPS retailers shipping worldwide here - do not hesitate to contact them by mail for any further informations. Happy knitting!

Virga 19.03.2020 - 19:46:

Sorry voor mijn vraag, heb het patroon terug bekeken : de uitleg begint vanaf Medium, niet Smal, dus het klopt.

DROPS Design 24.03.2020 kl. 18:45:

Dag Virga,

Dankjewel voor de terugkoppeling en veel breiplezier!

Virga 18.03.2020 - 20:57:

Hallo, Ik heb de hals gebreid en de pas in maat M. Ik heb nu 231 steken op de naald. A1 is klaar en meet 22 cm. Volgens het patroon moet ik nu 10 steken meerderen en zou dan 262 steken op de naald hebben voor maat M. Dit klopt niet volgens mij : 231 + 10 = 241. Is dit een fout of moeten er meer steken gemeerderd worden ? Bedankt voor een antwoord.

Laurence 09.03.2020 - 18:10:

Merci infiniment pour votre réponse, ça a donné un sens à tout un pan des instructions que je n avais pas saisi jusqu’à maintenant

Laurence 09.03.2020 - 08:52:

Bonjour est il possible de tricoter ce modèle avec un fil alpaca et un fil kid silk? de plus est il possible de le tricoter avec des aiguilles droites?

DROPS Design 09.03.2020 kl. 12:48:

Bonjour Laurence, tout à fait, vous pouvez remplacer 1 fil Air (= groupe C) par 2 fils du groupe A = 1 fil Alpaca + 1 fil Kid-Silk par exemple - plus d'infos ici. Vous trouverez également ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

Anette Adetoft 29.02.2020 - 07:42:

Stickar i medium. När oket är klart har jag 231 maskor. Öka 10 m=241. Det står att jag då ska ha 262m. När jag ska dela arbetet 25,50,69,50,44=238. Var är felet?

DROPS Design 02.03.2020 kl. 12:03:

Hei Anette. Du skal ha 231 masker når arbeidet måler ca 20 cm. Nå står beskrivelsen til str S for seg selv, slik at du som strikker str. M må se på det første tallet under: Størrelse M, L, XL, XXL og XXXL, altså når arbeidet måler 21 cm, økes det med 7 masker jevnt fordelt = 231 + 7 = 238 masker og da vil beskrivelsen under Alle størrelser stemme. God Fornøyelse!

Daphne Archer 28.02.2020 - 21:51:

Please could I buy the Drops pattern knitted from neck down?

DROPS Design 29.02.2020 kl. 20:45:

Dear Daphne, you do not need to buy the patterns as the DROPS patterns are available free, and you can download them from our website. If you are looking for top down patterns, please use the search function on our side that can filter your results. Happy Knitting!

Nicole GUTH 24.02.2020 - 11:15:

Oh, mille mercis pour la rapidité de votre réponse. Vous êtes super efficaces, je pensais que pour la taille M, c'étaient les premiers chiffres... Belle semaine à vous

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