DROPS / 203 / 32

Mermaid Tales by DROPS Design

Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked top down with leaf pattern in False Fisherman’s rib. Sizes 35 - 43.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-446
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm. Height from heel to top: approx. 13-14-15 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 114, light pearl grey

KNITTING TENSION:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
1 repeat of A.1 measures approx.11 cm in width (light stretched) and 10 cm in height.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

DECREASE TIP-1 (for mid back of sock):
Decrease 4 stitches as follows: Begin 2 stitches before the stitch with the marker mid back on sock: Slip the first knitted stitch onto the right needle as if to knit, slip the purled stitch onto the right needle as if to purl, place the next stitch on an extra needle in front of the piece, purl the next stitch on the left needle, pass the slipped purled stitch on the right needle over the purled stitch just worked, then place this stitch back onto the left needle, pass the next knitted stitch on the left needle over the stitch you just placed back on the left needle, then slip this stitch onto the right needle, pass the first knitted stitch which was slipped onto the right needle over this stitch, place the stitch from the extra needle back onto the left needle, slip the stitch on the right needle back onto the left needle, pass the stitch which were on the extra needle over the last stitch placed on the left needle and finally slip the remaining stitch onto the right needle (= 4 stitches decreased)
DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 31 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 3) = 10.3. 
In this example, decrease by knitting each 9th and 10th stitch together.

KNITTING TIP (for heel):
To strengthen, both the heel and the heel decrease can be worked with 2 strands as follows: Use the strand from both the inside and outside of the ball, working alternate stitches with first the one then the other strand. In this way you get a slightly thicker heel without using a double strand.

HEEL DECREASE:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 7-8-8 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7-8-8 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 6-7-7 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 6-7-7 stitches left, slip the next stitch as if to purl, purl 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn.
Continue to decrease like this; working until there is 1 stitch less left before slipping a stitch and until there are 15-15-17 stitches on the needles.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SOCK – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

SOCK:
Cast on 68-68-72 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Fabel. Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 1) for 3-3-4 cm. Insert 1 marker in the first stitch on the round (= knitted stitch). Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid back.
Now work pattern as follows: Continue with rib over the first 20 stitches, work A.1 (= 29-29-33 stitches) and then rib over the remaining 19 stitches. Continue this pattern. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue working as shown in diagram A.X. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 5 cm, decrease 4 stitches mid back – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 64-64-68 stitches. Repeat this decrease when the piece measures 10 cm = 60-60-64 stitches left.
Continue working until the piece measures 13-14-15 cm from the cast-on edge.
Now work the heel as follows:
Work rib as before over the first 16 stitches, Continue A.1 as before over the next 29-29-33 stitches (= A.1), then place these 29-29-33 stitches on 1 thread (= top of foot), and work rib as before over the remaining 15 stitches. There are 31 stitches on the heel in all sizes. Knit to end of row. Purl 1 row from the wrong side where you decrease 4-2-0 stitches evenly spaced = 27-29-31 stitches on heel.
Read KNITTING TIP-2 and work stocking stitch back and forth over the heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm. Insert 1 marker on the last row; it will be used to measure the foot-length.
Work HEEL DECREASE – read description above. After the heel decrease work the next row as follows: Knit all 15-15-17 heel stitches, knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the side of the heel, continue A.X over the 29-29-33 stitches from the thread, knit up 13-14-16 stitches along the other side of the heel = 70-72-82 stitches on the needles.
Insert 1 marker on each side of the middle 27-27-31 stitches on top of foot.
Continue A.X over the stitches on top of the foot and rib over the stitches under the foot (adjust so the rib under the foot begins and ends with knit 1).
When you have worked 2 rounds decrease on each side of the middle 27-27-31 stitches on top of foot as follows: Knit together the 2 stitches before the first marker and knit twisted together the 2 stitches after the second marker (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 7-8-9 times = 56-56-64 stitches.
Continue this pattern as far as possible and work until the piece measures 18-19-21 cm from the heel marker; finish the pattern after a half or whole leaf pattern in height – there is approx. 4-5-6 cm left to finished length (you can try the sock on and work to desired length). Then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) over all stitches to finished length.
When the piece measures 18-19-21 cm from the heel marker there is approx. 4-5-6 cm left to finished length (you can try the sock on and work to desired length).
Insert 1 marker thread in a knitted stitch on each side of the sock, so there are 27-27-31 stitches both on top and underneath the foot, between the stitches with the markers.
Continue rib in the round and decrease to toe on each side of both marker threads as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the stitch with the marker, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 1 (marker in this stitch) purl 1 and knit twisted together the 2 next stitches. Repeat the decrease at the second marker (= 4 stitches decreased on the round). 
Decrease like this on each side of both markers every 2nd round a total of 4-6-7 times and then every round a total of 7-5-5 times = 12-12-16 stitches left. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 = 6-6-8 stitches left.
Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. The foot measures approx. 22-24-27 cm from the heel marker. Work the other sock in the same way.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= knit 1 in the stitch under the next stitch
= purl 2 together twisted
= purl 2 together
= increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next round knit or purl the yarn over as shown in diagram (leaves a hole)
= increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over; on next round purl the yarn over twisted (avoids a hole)
= decrease 2 stitches towards the left as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased)
= decrease 2 stitches towards the right as follows: Knit 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased)
= decrease 4 stitches as follows: Slip 3 stitches as if to knit them together, knit the next 2 stitches together and pass the 3 slipped stitches over the knitted together stitches (= 4 stitches decreased)


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 203-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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