DROPS Baby / 33 / 27

Stroll in the Park Booties by DROPS Design

Knitted slippers for babies with false cables in DROPS BabyMerino. Sizes Premature - 4 years.

  • Stroll in the Park Booties / DROPS Baby 33-27 - Knitted slippers for babies with false cables in DROPS BabyMerino. Sizes Premature - 4 years.
  • Stroll in the Park Booties / DROPS Baby 33-27 - Knitted slippers for babies with false cables in DROPS BabyMerino. Sizes Premature - 4 years.
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-099-by
Yarn group A

(Premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(50) 50-50-50-50 (100-100) g colour 45, lemon

26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.




The slipper is worked back and forth from mid back. 
Cast on (44) 44-48-52-52 (56-56) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Merino. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib as follows from the right side: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*. Continue this rib for (4) 4-4-5-5 (6-7) cm – the next row is worked as follows from the right side: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over, knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*. Continue with rib until the piece measures (5) 5-5-6-6 (7-8) cm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease (9) 9-11-13-13 (13-13) stitches evenly spaced in all sizes = (35) 35-37-39-39 (43-43) stitches. Cut the strand.
Now place the outermost (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) stitches on each side on 1 thread = 13 stitches left on the needle in all sizes. Work A.1 over these 13 stitches, starting from the right side. Continue this pattern for (3) 3½-4-4½-5½ (6½-8) cm, then purl the next row from the wrong side, AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease (5) 5-3-1-1 (1-1) stitches over the 13 stitches. Cut the strand. 
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the stitches from the thread on the one side, knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches along the side of the mid-piece, work the (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) stitches on the needle (= front), knit up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) stitches along the other side of the mid-piece and work the stitches from the second thread = (44) 48-54-60-64 (74-84) stitches on the needle. Work (2½) 3-3-4-5 (5-5) cm GARTER STITCH – see description above, AT THE SAME TIME after (1) 1½-1½-2-3 (3-3) cm decrease every 2nd row (i.e. each row from the right side) as follows to finished length: Decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the row by knitting 2 stitches together inside the 1 edge stitch. In addition decrease by knitting 2 stitches together on each side of the 2 knitted stitches in the middle of the row (= 4 stitches decreased every 2nd row) = (32) 36-42-48-52 (62-72) stitches left on needle. Cast off and sew the seam under foot and mid back, in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat.

Work the other slipper in the same way.

Cut 3 strands of approx. 1 metre. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the strands double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Thread the cord through the row of holes in the slipper (starting and ending mid front). Repeat on the other slipper.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 14.01.2021
under SLIPPER, new measurment:
... Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib as follows from the right side: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, repeat from *-*. Continue this rib for (4) 4-4-5-5 (6-7) cm – the next row is ...


symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 and pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = no stitch; skip this square

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 33-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Gemmi Petra 03.03.2021 - 15:07:

Kann mir jemand erklären, wie ich in dem Diagramm A1 keine Masche,dieses Kästchen übespringen verfahren muss. ich habe ja 13 Maschen, wenn ich dann die 3 nicht stricke, habe ich drei maschen übrig?

user icon DROPS Design 03.03.2021 kl. 15:27:

Liebe Petra, bei der 3. Reihe in A.1 werden Sie jeweils 1 Masche abnehmen (siehe 3. Symbol = 1 Masche wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 2 Maschen rechts, die abgehobene Masche überziehen), dh am Ende dieser Reihe gibt es nur 2 Maschen rechts anstatt 3 - und nur 10 M in A.1 - bei der nächsten Reihe stricken Sie 1 Umschlag zwischen den 2 Maschen und so bekommen Sie wieder 3 Maschen (und 13). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Elisabet Sjostrom 10.02.2021 - 16:37:

Vad menas med omslag

user icon DROPS Design 11.02.2021 kl. 08:53:

Hej Elisabet. I denna video visar vi hur man gör ett omslag. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Emma 28.12.2020 - 22:44:

Hei. Jeg har nå strikket (ikke montert) én tøffel i str 0/1 men avstanden mellom «snorhullene» og ned til der flettene begynner er jo mye større enn på bildet. Oppskriften sier strikk til først totalt 3 cm, lag hull og strikk til totalt 5cm (=ca 2cm fra snorhull til fletter) mens det på bildet ser mer ut som et par omg og så rett på fletter. På min vil snøringen bli langt oppe på leggen og ikke ankelen, som jeg regner med var meningen. Kan det være feil i oppskriften?

user icon DROPS Design 13.01.2021 kl. 12:03:

Hei Emma. Kan se ut som om man skulle ha strikket 4 cm istedenfor 3 cm før man strikker hullmønstret. Oppskriften er oversendt design avdlingen, slik at de kan ta en dobbeltsjekk og evnt komme med en rettelse. mvh DROPS design

country flag Lebrun 05.12.2020 - 18:46:

Bonjour. J'ai du mal à comprendre le diagramme A1. J'ai l'impression que, à la ligne 3, le ''glisser 1m, tricoter 2m. et reglisser la 1ère'' fait passer de 3 mailles à 1 maille. Ce qui n'est pas cohérent avec la ligne 4, où il faudrait garder 2 mailles. Pouvez -vous m'éclairer sur ce point ?

user icon DROPS Design 07.12.2020 kl. 07:51:

Bonjour Mme Lebrun, au 3ème rang, vous allez diminuer 1 des 3 m end: glissez la 1ère des 3 m endroit comme pour la tricoter à l'endroit, tricotez les 2 mailles suivantes à l'endroit (= normalement), puis passez la 1ère de ces 3 mailles (= la maille glissée) par-dessus les 2 mailles tricotées = il ne reste plus que 2 mailles endroit. Au tour suivant, vous tricoterez ces 2 mailles ainsi: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end = vous avez de nouveau 3 mailles. Cette vidéo montre une version similaire de cette petite torsade. Bon tricot!

country flag Sjanie Bakker 23.11.2020 - 21:51:

Er zit een fout inde uitleg van het telpatroon: de tekst bij het derde symbool moet zijn: 1 steek recht afhalen, 2 recht breien en de afgehaalde steek over de twee rechte halen (alleen zo houd je 13 steken per toer). Wellicht ten overvloede gemeld (ik wist dat niet): het telpatroon A.1 loopt van beneden naar boven!

country flag Carine 26.10.2020 - 09:02:

Bonjour, une question de débutante : l'echantillon de base est fait avec l'aiguille indiquée sur la pelote ? (par exemple 3 ici) ou celle indiquée dans les explications ? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 26.10.2020 kl. 09:39:

Bonjour Carine, l'échantillon peut varier en fonction du modèle (et de tout un tas de paramètres), il faut donc toujours se fier aux indications du modèle, autrement dit, on doit avoir ici 26 mailles x 34 rangs en jersey = 10 x 10 cm, nous avons utilisé des aiguilles 2,5, réalisez votre échantillon pour vérifier si vous devez utiliser des aiguilles plus fines, plus grosses ou si les 2,5 vous conviennent - vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur l'échantillon. Bon tricot!

country flag Karin Ayla Andersen 16.10.2020 - 17:36:

Hej igen. Tak for jeres hurtige svar, men efter adskillige forsøg er det desværre ikke lykkedes mig at strikke pinden med firkanten. Jeg har endda fået en underviser i strikning til at hjælpe mig, hun kunne heller ikke finde ud af den, så nu har jeg opgivet. Er der mulighed for, at der bliver lavet en video, hvor mønster diagrammet bliver strikket? Venlig hilsen Karin

country flag Karin Ayla 15.10.2020 - 12:00:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke firkanten i diagrammet: = ingen maske, hop over denne rude. Hvad menes der med dette? Jeg har strikket mange tøfler, men er aldrig før stødt på dette tegn og forklaring. Jeg synes, at jeg har prøvet alt, men kan ikke få det til at blive. Håber rigtig meget at du kan hjælpe mig. Venlig hilsen Karin Ayla

user icon DROPS Design 15.10.2020 kl. 13:10:

Hej Karin. Du har en maska mindre där än på pinnen under eftersom du lyfte den løse masken over de 2 m du stickade rett. Därför går du bara direkt vidare till nästa maska i diagrammet. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Susanne 14.09.2020 - 17:21:

Hej! :-) I opskriften står der at der er 13 m tilbage på pinden i ALLE størrelser, over de masker hvor der skal strikkes snoninger. Det vil sige at der bliver 3 rækker af snoninger i ALLE størrelser. Hvorfor er der så 4 rækker af snoninger på det ene billede? (Billedet uden baby). Mvh Susanne

user icon DROPS Design 16.09.2020 kl. 14:03:

Hej Susanne, vi har sikkert lavet en med 3 rækker og en med 4 rækker for at se hvilken som blev finest. Normalt afslører vi det ikke med et billede, men det har vi gjort i det her tilfælde. ;) Uanset hvad så skal du følge opskriften og så får du den tøffel som kun har 3 rækker. :) God fornøjelse!

country flag Mirjam Luik 21.07.2020 - 13:53:

In het diagram staat in het Nederlands en fout . Er staat 1 steek recht afhalen, '2 steken samenbreien' dit moet zijn '2 steken recht breien' dan de afgehaald steek over de twee halen.

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