DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Forest Shadows

Knitted jacket with raglan in 3 strands DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with stripes. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 207-16
DROPS Design: Pattern no as-115
Yarn group C + C + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 11, forest green
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 03, grey
125-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 02, light grey
25-25-25-25-25-25 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
10.5 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stocking stitch and 3 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUFFALO HORN BUTTONS, NO 535: 6-6-6-6-6-7 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 54 stitches) minus the band stitches (= 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 11) = 4.1. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

STRIPES-1:
All stripes are worked with 3 strands.
STRIPE 1: 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm with 2 strands forest green + 1 strand grey.
STRIPE 2: 14-14-16-16-16-18 cm with 2 strands grey + 1 strand forest green.
STRIPE 3: 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm with 1 strand forest green + 1 strand grey + 1 strand light grey.
STRIPE 4: 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm with 2 strands grey + 1 strand light grey.
STRIPE 5: 7-7-8-8-8-9 cm with 1 strand grey + 2 strands light grey.
STRIPE 6: Work with 3 strands light grey as far as the rib.
STRIPE 7: Work rib with 2 strands light grey + 1 strand off-white

STRIPES-2 (for sleeves):
All stripes are worked with 3 strands.
Continue with STRIPES-1 – read description above, until stripe 3 is finished. The sleeve measures approx. 8-6-8-6-4-6 cm from the division. Continue the stripes as follows:
STRIPE 4: 13-13-12-12-12-11 cm with 2 strands grey + 1 strand light grey.
STRIPE 5: 13-13-12-12-12-11 cm with 1 strand grey + 2 strands light grey.
STRIPE 6: Work with 3 strands light grey to finished length.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the round) as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat at all marker threads. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 2 cm. Then work the other 5-5-5-5-5-6 buttonholes with approx. 9½-9½-10-10-10-10 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 54-58-58-62-66-66 stitches with circular needle size 6 mm and 3 strands forest green. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. REMEMBER THE BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above. When the rib measures 4 cm, insert 1 marker in the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

YOKE:
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 11-11-11-11-15-19 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 65-69-69-73-81-85 stitches. Knit 1 row back from the wrong side (band stitches are knitted). Change to circular needle size 8 mm. Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows: Insert the first marker thread after the first 14-15-15-16-18-19 stitches, skip the next 8 stitches (= sleeve), insert the next thread here, skip the next 21-23-23-25-29-31 stitches (= back piece), insert the next thread here, skip the next 8 stitches (= sleeve), insert the last thread here; there are 14-15-15-16-18-19 stitches between the last marker thread and end of row. Continue with stocking stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and work STRIPES-1 – read description above. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row from the right side begin to increase to RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 12-13-15-16-16-17 times = 161-173-189-201-209-221 stitches. Then continue to increase every 2nd row on the front and back pieces (do not increase further on the sleeves = 4 stitches increased on round) 2-2-2-2-3-4 more times = 169-181-197-209-221-237 stitches. Continue working without increasing until the piece measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm. The next row from the wrong side is worked as follows:
Work the first 28-30-32-34-37-40 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 32-34-38-40-40-42 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 49-53-57-61-67-73 stitches (= back piece), place the next 32-34-38-40-40-42 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-8-8 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the remaining 28-30-32-34-37-40 stitches (= left front piece). Measure now from here!

BODY:
= 117-125-133-145-157-169 stitches. Continue back and forth with STRIPES-1, stocking stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 31 cm from the division, increase 17-21-21-21-25-25 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP = 134-146-154-166-182-194 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm and work rib as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 32-34-38-40-40-42 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 8 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 38-40-44-48-48-50 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the new stitches (= 3-3-3-4-4-4 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stocking stitch and STRIPES-2; at the same time when the sleeve measures 4 cm decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4½-3½-3-2-2-2 cm a total of 7-8-9-11-10-11 times = 24-24-26-26-28-28 stitches. When the piece measures 38-36-35-33-31-30 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke) increase 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches evenly spaced = 28-28-32-32-36-36 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Cut and fasten the strands. The sleeve measures approx. 42-40-39-37-35-34 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 18.04.2023
BODY: When the piece measures 31 cm from the division,...

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Anna wrote:

Det är ju bra om ni skriver rätt maskantal, så man slipper repa och börja om. Det fattas 8 maskor, när man stickar efter största stl. 8 maskor, det är rätt stor skillnad. Så det ska var 93 maskor istället för 85 maskor efter övningarna på 19 maskor. Gör och gör det rätt

28.02.2023 - 12:14

country flag Loretta wrote:

Corpo del cardigan nella d escursione vi e' un errore mancano le indicazione su come procedere dopo gli aumenti perché dopo i 31centimetri e poi le ciste di 4centimetei non si raggiunge la fine del maglione buona sera e grazie

11.02.2023 - 00:02

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Loretta, guardando lo schema delle misure i 31 cm dovrebbero essere dalla divisione delle maniche. Abbiamo inoltrato la sua segnalazione al settore design: se ci dovessero essere delle correzioni, il modello verrà aggiornato direttamente online. Buon lavoro!

15.03.2023 - 17:12

country flag Loretta wrote:

Corpo del cardigan dopo aver aumentato le maglie previste il maglione e finito? O bisogna lavorare a maglia rasata fino ad arrivare al bordo a punto ciste ? E per quanti centimetri non e chiaro buongiorno e grazie

10.02.2023 - 11:56

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Loretta, è indicato come procedere: dopo gli aumenti si cambiano i ferri e si lavora a coste come indicato. Buon lavoro!

10.02.2023 - 16:22

country flag Loretta Fantini wrote:

Corpo del cardigan i 31 centimetri prima di cominciare a aumentare si contano dal segnapunti o da dove? Buongiorno e grazie.

09.02.2023 - 16:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Loretta, nel paragrafo del collo viene indicato il punto da cui iniziare a misurare. Buon lavoro!

10.02.2023 - 16:19

country flag Ursula Becker wrote:

Guten Tag, ich habe Schwierigkeiten beim Verstehen des 6. und 7. Streifens bei Streifen-1. Dort ist angegeben, dass diese Streifen im Rippenmuster gestrickt werden, also 4cm Bündchen. Bedeutet dass, das diese beiden Streifen in dieser kurzen Strecke verarbeitet werden, je 2cm, oder wie ist das gemeint? Vielen Dank für die Antwort. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Ursula Becker

20.06.2022 - 08:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Becker, die 6. Streifen stricken Sie nach der 5. bis Anfang von Bündchen = bis der Rumpfteil ca 31 cm misst und nach der Zunahmenreihe. Dann stricken Sie die 7. Streife für das Rippenmuster. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.06.2022 - 10:08

country flag Marie-Françoise LEMINEUR wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis "coincée" au niveau des manches : j'ai bien compris qu'elles se tricotaient avec les rayures 2. Mais, il est indiqué de tricoter les rayures -1 : faut-il donc commencer par la rayure 1 (2 fils vert forêt + 1 fil gris) des rayures 1 et ce, jusqu'à la rayure 3 (1 fil vert forêt + 1 gris+ 1 gris clair) ? mais, alors, pourquoi la manche ne mesure-t-elle que 6 cm en fil de rayure 3 ?? Je vous remercie pour votre aide.

26.12.2021 - 22:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Françoise, sur la manche vous ne faites que la partie du rayure 3 de la partie RAYURES-1 (pour qu’il ait la meme longueur que celui sur le dos et les devants). Ensuite vous realisez des rayures 4, 5 et 6 des RAYURES-2 (manches). Bon tricot!

28.12.2021 - 10:34

country flag Gabriella wrote:

Buongiorno Vorrei le istruzione per confezionare questo modello con i ferri dritti e cominciando dal basso verso l'alto Geazie Gabriella

06.11.2021 - 12:36

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera, il modello è stato progettato con la costruzione top down e in questa sede non ci è possibile riprogettarlo diversamente. Può lavorarlo con i i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

06.11.2021 - 17:24

country flag Marion wrote:

Bonsoir, j'aimerais tricoter ce gilet en uni noir. Quel poids de laine dois-je commander ? Si je prends 375g (qui correspond au poids des 4 couleurs pour une taille S) je pense que j'en aurai trop. Pourriez-vous m'aider s'il vous plait? Merci beaucoup! Marion

27.09.2021 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marion, comme ce modèle a été tricoté avec des rayures nous ne pouvons pas vous donner la quantité exacte nécessaire avec une seule couleur, effectivement additionner les couleurs est une bonne idée, mais vous en aurez probablement un peu trop, votre magasin saura vous aider et vous conseiller, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

28.09.2021 - 07:59

country flag Marie wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, kann ich statt der drei Fäden Brushed Silk auch die Drops Wish mit einem Faden verwenden? Die Maschenprobe ist laut der Beschreibung dieselbe. Wenn ja, wie viel Gramm brauche ich für Größe "L"? Da sie "Wish" noch so neu ist, gibt es kaum Anleitungen für einen Cardigan... Herzlichen Dank, Ihr helft mir sehr weiter!! Marie

28.06.2021 - 15:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Marie, es könnte vielleicht auch mal with nur Wish passen (siehe alle unseren Anleitung von der Garngruppe E mit 10 M = 10 cm hier) - am besten immer eine Maschenprobe stricken. Hier lesen Sie mehr - Ihr Laden wird Ihnen noch damit weiterhelfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

28.06.2021 - 16:06

country flag Monika Rock wrote:

Alles in Allem sehr gut beschrieben.

13.12.2020 - 05:07