DROPS / 203 / 3

Granny Hugs by DROPS Design

Crocheted blanket with granny squares in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS Design: Pattern no u-893
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
The piece measures approx.: Width = 102 cm. Length = 142 cm.
1 square measures approx. 20 x 20 cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350 g colour 05, black
100 g colour 01, off white
100 g colour 11, orange
100 g colour 33, medium pink
100 g colour 39, dark old rose
100 g colour 50, sea green
100 g colour 52, dark mustard
100 g colour 69, light grey green
50 g colour 07, bright blue
50 g colour 18, red
50 g colour 30, light denim blue
50 g colour 45, light olive
50 g colour 55, light beige brown
50 g colour 65, denim blue
50 g colour 79, lemon

If you wish to work the blanket in only one colour you will need:
1000 g DROPS Karisma

CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 8 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.
1 square should measure approx. 20 x 20 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 61.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GRANNY SQUARE:
See diagram A.1. The first 4 rounds are drawn in the diagram, then you continue in the round in the same way (alternately from right and wrong side) until you have worked a total of 8 rounds.

COLOUR COMBINATIONS:
The squares are crocheted in 17 different colour combinations as described below.

SQUARE 1 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: dark mustard
Round 3: dark old rose
Round 4: light grey green
Round 5: off white
Round 6: sea green
Round 7: medium pink
Round 8: black

SQUARE 2 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: lemon
Round 3: dark mustard
Round 4: off white
Round 5: light grey green
Round 6: sea green
Round 7: dark old rose
Round 8: black

SQUARE 3 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: medium pink
Round 3: dark mustard
Round 4: dark old rose
Round 5: bright blue
Round 6: sea green
Round 7: light grey green
Round 8: black

SQUARE 4 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: dark old rose
Round 3: medium pink
Round 4: dark mustard
Round 5: light grey green
Round 6: denim blue
Round 7: light beige brown
Round 8: black

SQUARE 5 (2 items):
Cast on + round 1: dark old rose
Round 2: bright blue
Rounds 3 + 4: light denim blue
Round 5: dark mustard
Round 6: black
Round 7: orange
Round 8: black

SQUARE 6 (1 item):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: light beige brown
Round 3: dark old rose
Round 4: orange
Round 5: denim blue
Round 6: light grey green
Round 7: light olive
Round 8: black

SQUARE 7 (3 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: lemon
Round 3: dark mustard
Round 4: dark old rose
Round 5: medium pink
Round 6: denim blue
Round 7: light beige brown
Round 8: black

SQUARE 8 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: red
Round 3: medium pink
Round 4: light grey green
Round 5: denim blue
Round 6: off white
Round 7: dark mustard
Round 8: black

SQUARE 9 (2 items):
Cast on + round 1: light grey green
Round 2 + 3: red
Round 4: medium pink
Round 5: off white
Round 6: light denim blue
Round 7: light olive
Round 8: black

SQUARE 10 (2 items):
Cast on + round 1: light grey green
Rounds 2 + 3: lemon
Round 4: dark mustard
Round 5: dark old pink
Round 6: sea green
Round 7: bright blue
Round 8: black

SQUARE 11 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: sea green
Rounds 3 + 4: dark mustard
Round 5: red
Round 6: dark old rose
Round 7: orange
Round 8: black

SQUARE 12 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: dark mustard
Round 3: dark old rose
Round 4: light grey green
Round 5: off white
Round 6: sea green
Round 7: orange
Round 8: black

SQUARE 13 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: black
Round 3: light denim blue
Round 4: bright blue
Round 5: lemon
Round 6: dark old rose
Round 7: orange
Round 8: black

SQUARE 14 (3 items):
Cast on + round 1: dark mustard
Round 2: black
Round 3: dark old rose
Round 4: orange
Round 5: black
Round 6: light grey green
Round 7: bright blue
Round 8: black

SQUARE 15 (2 items):
Cast on + round 1: light denim blue
Round 2: off white
Round 3: medium pink
Round 4: red
Round 5: light grey green
Round 6: light olive
Round 7: dark mustard
Round 8: black

SQUARE 16 (2 items):
Cast on + rounds 1 + 2: lemon
Round 3: red
Round 4: medium pink
Round 5: orange
Round 6: off white
Round 7: light olive
Round 8: black

SQUARE 17 (2 items):
Cast on + round 1: light grey green
Rounds 2 + 3: dark old rose
Round 4: medium pink
Round 5: off white
Round 6: light olive
Round 7: sea green
Round 8: black

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BLANKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The blanket is made up of granny squares in 17 different colour combinations. Work the right number of squares as described above in each colour combination = a total of 35 squares. Then work the squares together before working an edge around the whole blanket.

1 GRANNY SQUARE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and the cast-on colour of the square – read COLOUR COMBINATIONS. Form the chain stitches into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
Then work A.1 in the round with alternately 1 round from the right side and 1 round from the wrong side as shown in A.1. The first 4 rounds are drawn in A.1, then continue in the same way until you have worked a total of 8 rounds. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Cut and fasten the strands. The square measures approx. 20 x 20 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Lay the squares out as shown in A.2 or as desired. There should be 5 squares in width and 7 squares in height. Make sure all the squares are right side up. The squares are first worked together in length, then in width. 
Work them together with black as follows: Lay 2 squares together, wrong side to wrong side and work through both layers as follows: Work 1 double crochet around the corner, * 4 chain stitches, skip the next 3 treble crochets, work 1 double crochet around the next chain stitch*, work from *-* up to and including the next corner (= 8 chain-spaces) and work 3 chain stitches (= transition to the next 2 squares). Repeat on the next 2 squares and then continue until one double-length of squares is completed. Cut and fasten the strand. Then work this double length together with the next length in the same way. When all the lengths have been worked together, work them together in width. Cut and fasten the strands.

EDGE:
Work an edge with black around the whole blanket in the same way as the last round on the squares; i.e. work as follows:
Fasten the strand with 1 slip stitch in the last treble crochet before one of the corner-spaces on the blanket and begin the round with 3 chain stitches. Then work 3 treble crochets around each chain stitch and 1 chain stitch between each treble crochet group.
In the corners work 3 treble crochets, 3 chain stitches and 3 treble crochets.
In the transition between 2 squares along all sides work 3 treble crochets around the corner of the first square, 1 chain stitch and 3 treble crochets around the corner of the next square.
When you have worked around the whole blanket finish the round with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

= start here – this chain-stitch ring is described in the text. Continue with the symbol above the point on the circle and work to the left
= 1 chain stitch
= the round starts with 3 chain stitches (equivalent to 1 treble crochet) and ends with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch from the beginning of the round. Turn the piece, change colour if necessary and work the next round in the other direction
= work 1 treble crochet around the chain stitch/chain-space


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 203-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

REINE MARIE 29.06.2020 - 18:53:

Excusez-moi mais avez vous une vidéo car je n'arrive pas comme il faut que les carrés doivent se monter en hauteur là j'ai fais 2en hauteur mais lorsque j'arrive a la fin j ai fais3mailles en l'air mais ou je dois mettre l'autre carré ?excusez moi ;merci de votre reponse

DROPS Design 30.06.2020 kl. 10:52:

Bonjour Reine Marie, nous n'avons pas de vidéo pour ce type d'assemblage, après avoir assemblé les 2 premiers carrés (= après la dernière maille serrée autour du dernier coin des 2 carrés), crochetez les 3 ml, puis prenez les 2 carrés suivants, et crochetez 1 ms dans le premier coin de ces 2 carrés, et répétez de *-*. Continuez ainsi et terminez par 1 ms dans le dernier coin des 2 derniers carrés de la bande. Bon crochet!

REINE MARIE 29.06.2020 - 14:31:

Merci DROPS DESIGN ;mais lorsque l'on termine avec les 3ml apres le coin ,faut-il couper le fil ou continuer sur les deux autres carrés , excuse -moi .merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 15:18:

Bonjour Reine Marie, les 3 mailles en l'air se font à la transition entre les carrés, après ces 3 ml, crochetez 1 ms autour du coin des 2 carrés suivants et reprenez de *-*. Bon crochet!

REINE MARIE 26.06.2020 - 22:51:

BONSOIR J AI TERMINE TOUS LES GRANNY MAIS POUR L ASSEMBLAGE JE SUIS PERDUE POUVE VOUS M AIDER MERCI .

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 07:37:

Bonjour Reine Marie, posez 2 carrés envers contre envers et, en piquant dans les 2 épaisseurs, crochetez; 1 ms dans le coin, 4 ml, *1 ms autour de la maille en l'air suivante des 2 carrés* (= 1 ms autour de chaque arceau, chaque ms espacée de 4 ml) - terminez par 3 ml après le coin, prenez les 2 carrés suivants et assemblez-les de la même façon. Quand vous avez ainsi assemblé 7 carrés en longueur, assemblez la bande suivante de la même façon en suivant l'ordre indiqué pour les carrés. Quand toutes les bandes sont assemblés en longueur, procédez de la même façon mais en largeur pour les assembler. Bon crochet!

Marion McLeod 27.04.2020 - 10:54:

I can't find the Add to favourites button. Can you help. With thanks Marion Mcleod

DROPS Design 27.04.2020 kl. 11:27:

Hi Marion, please see upper right corner ' Your Favourites'.

Jannie 22.03.2020 - 15:57:

Voor twee persoons bed Heb ik 25 vaste (25 stokjes x14 hoog) en dan 146 lapjes gehaakt. Het zijn geen kleine lapjes geworden maar wel erg mooi.

Iris Pfeil 16.10.2019 - 23:02:

Ich bin Neuling bei DOPS-GARNE und habe vielleicht eine blöde Frage: Ich finde diese Decke wunderschön und möchte sie gerne genauso mit diesen Farben häkeln. Bekomme ich das Garn so als Paket zusammengestellt oder muss ich das selbst zusammenstellen ?

DROPS Design 17.10.2019 kl. 10:02:

Liebe Frau Pfeil, wenn Ihr DROPS Laden kein "Kit" für diese Decke vorschlägt, dann sollen Sie jede einzelne Farbe bestellen, mit der sog. Garnmenge je nach der Farbe. Ihr Laden kann Ihnen gerne damit weiterhelfen, auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Marga 12.09.2019 - 19:02:

Es hermosa esta manta y está en mis proyectos. Gracias por sus patrones.Saludos desde Cd. Madero, Tamaulipas, México

Mairead Bolger 20.08.2019 - 15:16:

I am looking for a nordic ladies pattern in XL size where the Nordic pattern does not extend out onto the sleeves (just goes around the neck). I can't find any in your pattern gallery. Any suggestions please? Many thanks Mairead

DROPS Design 20.08.2019 kl. 15:38:

Dear Mairead, unfortunately most of our nordic design have the pattern also on the sleeves, but you can adapt them: please feel free to ask to your favourite DROPS store for a personal assistance. Happy crafting!

Toos 10.08.2019 - 13:44:

Hebt u ook een haakpatronen in een bed sprei voor twee personen

Rosy 29.07.2019 - 08:39:

Très seventies, un classique indémodable

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