Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over (= hole) | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round work the yarn over twisted (= NO hole) | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches | |
= no stitch in this square, go straight to next symbol in diagram | |
= last increase on front and back pieces |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Berry Diamond |
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Knitted jumper with raglan and balloon sleeves in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 202-18 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 78 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 10) = 7.8. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing knit approx. each 7th and 8th stitch together. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.8. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.8). DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2, (marker thread sits between these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: Neck, yoke and body are worked in the round with circular needle from the transition between sleeve and back piece, top down. Sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 10 stitches evenly spaced in all sizes – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 86-90-94-98-102-106 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Then work yoke as described below. YOKE: The first round is worked as follows: Work A.1 over 29 stitches (= back piece), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), make 1 yarn over, 10-12-14-16-18-20 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), work A.1 over 29 stitches (= front piece), 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), 1 yarn over, 10-12-14-16-18-20 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over and 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line). There are now 94-98-102-106-110-114 stitches on needle. Continue this pattern, i.e. on front and back pieces you increase on each side as shown in A.1. On the sleeves you increase on each side with a yarn over either side of the stitches in stocking stitch. Raglan line is always 2 stitches in stocking stitch. Increase like this every 2nd round. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. On the sleeves work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. On front and back pieces work the increased stitches into the pattern as shown in A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 has been completed in height there are 158-162-166-170-174-178 stitches on the needle. Continue the increases both on sleeves and front/back pieces, but now work A.2 to A.4 over the 47 stitches in A.1 as follows: Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.3 over 42 stitches (= 3 repeats of 14 stitches) and work A.4 (= 3 stitches). Raglan line and sleeves are worked as before. When you have worked as far as the round marked with an arrow in your size, you have increased a total of 18-21-22-24-26-29 times from the beginning of the yoke and there are 230-258-270-290-310-338 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 21-24-25-27-29-32 cm from the cast-on edge mid front. The next round is worked as follows: Work 68-74-77-83-89-97 stitches as before (= back piece), place the next 44-52-54-56-58-62 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 71-77-81-89-97-107 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 44-52-54-56-58-62 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve)) and work the last 3-3-4-6-8-10 stitches as before (= back piece). Cut the strand. Body and sleeves are continued separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 158-170-182-198-218-238 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards; they mark the sides. The first round is worked as follows (start on round marked with an arrow in your size so that the pattern continues): Work 3-6-9-13-4-9 stitches in stocking stitch, A.5a (= 15 stitches), A.6a over the next 42-42-42-42-70-70 stitches (= 3-3-3-3-5-5 repeats of 14 stitches), work A.7a (= 16 stitches), 6-12-18-26-8-18 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), work A.5a (= 15 stitches), A.6a over the next 42-42-42-42-70-70 stitches (= 3-3-3-3-5-5 repeats of 14 stitches), work A.7a (= 16 stitches) and finish with 3-6-9-13-4-9 stitches in stocking stitch. Repeat A.5a to A.7a in height (the remaining stitches are worked as before) until the piece measures approx. 4-5-4-6-4-4 cm from the division – adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat in height. Then continue with A.5b to A.7b, the remaining stitches worked as before. Work until A.5b to A.7b have been completed 1 time in height. Then continue in stocking stitch over all stitches. When the piece measures 28-27-28-28-28-27 cm from the division, knit 1 round where you increase 30-34-38-38-42-50 stitches evenly spaced = 188-204-220-236-260-288 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 5.5 mm. SLEEVE: Place the 44-52-54-56-58-62 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-60-64-66-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing. Start the round by the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve (does not apply to size XXL) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 1-5-2-3-0-2 times = 50-50-60-60-70-70 stitches. When the piece measures 7-8-8-6-8-6 cm work pattern in the round as follows: Work A.8a over all stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 reports of 10 stitches). When A.8a has been completed there are 70-70-84-84-84-84 stitches on the needle. Continue with A.8b. Repeat A.8b in height until the piece measures approx. 41-38-38-36-34-32 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap) – adjust so that you finish after a complete repeat in height. Continue with A.8c. When A.8c has been completed there are 35-35-42-42-42-42 stitches on the needle. Knit 1 round where you decrease 3-3-6-6-2-2 stitches evenly spaced = 32-32-36-36-40-40 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 5.5 mm. The sleeve measures approx. 48-45-45-43-41-39 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (30)
Ola wrote:
Czy przy dodawaniu oczek na reglan na pewno trzeba robić oczko przekręcone w następnym rzędzie, żeby nie było dziury? Tak się zastanawiam, bo pani na zdjęciu ewidentnie ma te dziurki przy reglanach... I są całkiem urocze. :)
13.02.2020 - 14:37DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Olu! Nawet jak będą to oczka przekręcone jak w opisie, to przy grubych drutach dziurki będą widoczne. Oczywiście, jeśli podobają ci się większe otwory, bez problemu możesz oczka przerabiać bez ich przekręcania. Powodzenia!
13.02.2020 - 20:08Maminko wrote:
Désolée pour les fautes de frappe ! J'ai cliqué trop vite.
19.01.2020 - 09:55Maminka wrote:
J'ai eu un coup de foudre pour ce modèle, à tel point que, malgré l'importance de mon stock de laine, j'ai commandé 7 pelotes de Air pour le réaliser. J'espère que je n'aurai pas de difficulté pou le réaliser.
19.01.2020 - 09:52Bodil Jensen wrote:
Ryg og forstykke 158m start på omgangen markeret med pil i din størrelse så mønsteret fortsætter hvor ser jeg den pil på str.s?
12.01.2020 - 13:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bodil Du ser det på diagrammet. Lycka till!
30.01.2020 - 14:06Bjørg Strnsl wrote:
Er rettelsene i diagram A5,A6 og A7 nå rettet, slik at det er korrekt utskrift jeg skriver ut nå? Mvh. Bjørg Stensli
07.01.2020 - 12:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ja diagram A.5, A.6 och A.7 är rättade så utskriften blir korrekt. Mvh DROPS Design
29.01.2020 - 11:27Kinga wrote:
Hei! Jeg sliter med økningen på begynnelsen av A1. Jeg skal fra 90 til 98 masker men i følge oppskrifta så skal jeg bare lage 4 ekstra kast om pinnen. Misforstår jeg noe nå?
09.11.2019 - 23:52DROPS Design answered:
Hei Kinga. Husk de 2 kastene i A.1 også (A.1 strikkes 2 ganger = 4 økninger) + de 4 som er beskrevet i oppskriften = 8 økninger på 1. omgang = 98 masker. God Fornøyelse!
11.11.2019 - 13:24Astrid Louise Løvlie wrote:
Jeg får ikke masketallet til å stemme for str S etter A2.-A.4. For ermene står det at det skal være 44 masker, men 14 startmasker med 18 økninger gir femti masker, og for for og bakstykke ender jeg opp med 65. Så summen blir 230, men fordelingen feil. Kan dere hjelpe med hvordan fordelingen skal være og hvordan arbeidet blir videre?
26.10.2019 - 18:10DROPS Design answered:
Hej Astrid, nogle af maskerne (forskelligt antal i de forskellige størrelser) fra hver side af ærmet strikkes med forstykket og bagstykket ifølge opskriften. God fornøjelse!
21.11.2019 - 15:53Nguyễn Thu Thảo wrote:
I am 1m60 80kg, which size i should choose?
12.10.2019 - 13:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Thu Thảo , measure a similar garment you have and like the shape and compare these measurements to those in meeasurement chart, this will then help you to choose the matching size. Read more about schematic drawing here. Happy knitting!
14.10.2019 - 09:22Eva Karlsen wrote:
Hei ! Jeg har kommet til første økning av A8 på armen . Det skal her økes 1 maske først og sist på rapporten . Det blir da 2 kast etter hverandre ....forstår jeg det riktig ???
15.09.2019 - 14:10DROPS Design answered:
Hei Eva. Litt usikker på hva du mener. Når du starter med erme og diagram A.8a strikker du 2 omganger glattstrikk før du starter med økningene og økningene er ca midt i diagrammet. Hvor står det at det skal økes med 1 maske først og sist i rapporten? Og hvilken str strikker du? Mvh DROPS design
16.09.2019 - 13:47Eva wrote:
Hvorfor skal det økes på bolen før en strikker vrangborden ?? Kan jeg sløyfe det ??
10.09.2019 - 19:29DROPS Design answered:
Hei Eva, Dette er foreslått for å hindre at vrangborden blir stram. Du kan gjerne sløyfe det hvis du vil. God fornøyelse!
11.09.2019 - 10:10