DROPS / 202 / 17

Berry Diamond Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan and balloon sleeves in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern ai-188
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 23, coral reef

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm, length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm, length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
K all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 88 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 9) = 8.7.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 9th stitch. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Do not increase over bands.
To decrease evenly in this example knit every 8th and 9th stitch together.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.14. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.14). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 4-4-4-5-5-5 buttonholes, approx. 9½-10-10-9-9½-10 cm between each.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge, yoke and body back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work rib like this for 3 cm. Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 8 stitches evenly in all sizes - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 97-101-105-109-113-117 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side inside 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Work first row as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 (= 15 stitches), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), make 1 yarn over, work 10-12-14-16-18-20 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), work A.2 (= 29 stitches), work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), make 1 yarn over, work 10-12-14-16-18-20 stitches in stocking stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stocking stitch (= raglan line), work A.3 (= 15 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. There are now 105-109-113-117-121-125 stitches on needle.
Continue pattern like this. I.e. on front and back piece increase in each side as shown in A.1, A.2 and A.3. On sleeves increase in each side with yarn over on each side of stitches in stocking stitch. Raglan line is always on 2 stitches in stocking stitch. Increase like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side). On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. On sleeves work the increased stitches in stocking stitch. On front and back piece work the increased stitches in pattern as shown in A.1, A.2 and A.3. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
When A.1, A.2 and A3 have been worked vertically, there are 169-173-177-181-185-189 stitches on needle.
Continue increases on sleeves and front and back piece as before but now work pattern A.4 to A.8 over A.1 to A.3 as follows: Then work A.4 (= 24 stitches) over A.1. Over the 47 stitches in A.2 work as follows: Work A.5 (= 2 stitches), work A.6 over 42 stitches (= 3 repetitions of 14 stitches) and work A.7 (= 3 stitches). Work A.8 (= 24 stitches) over A.3. Work band stitches, raglan line and sleeves as before.
When row marked with arrow for your size has been worked, you have increased a total of 18-21-22-24-26-29 times from beginning of yoke, and there are now 241-269-281-301-321-349 stitches on needle. Piece measures approx. 21-24-25-27-29-32 cm from cast-on edge mid front.
Work next row as follows from wrong side:
Work 41-44-46-50-54-59 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 44-52-54-56-58-62 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work 71-77-81-89-97-107 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 44-52-54-56-58-62 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and work the 41-44-46-50-54-59 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 169-181-193-209-229-249 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches that were cast on under each sleeve. Move marker threads upwards when working, they mark the sides.
Work first row as follows from right side (begin with row marked with arrow in your size to continue the pattern): 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.9a (= 7 stitches), work A.10a over the next 14-14-14-14-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-1-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), work A.11a (= 16 stitches), work 6-12-18-26-8-18 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work A.12a (= 15 stitches), work A.10a over the next 42-42-42-42-70-70 stitches (= 3-3-3-3-5-5 repetitions of 14 stitches), work A.11a (= 16 stitches), work 6-12-18-26-8-18 stitches in stocking stitch (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work A.12a (= 15 stitches), work A.10a over the next 14-14-14-14-28-28 stitches (= 1-1-1-1-2-2 repetitions of 14 stitches), work A.13a (= 8 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Repeat A.9a to A.13a vertically (work the remaining stitches as before) until piece measures approx. 4-5-4-6-4-4 cm from division – adjust to finish after a whole repetition vertically.
Then continue on A.9b to A.13b, work the remaining stitches as before. Work until A.9b to A.13b have been worked 1 time vertically. then work in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards each side towards mid front. When piece measures 28-27-28-28-28-27 cm from division, knit 1 row from wrong side while increasing 31-35-39-39-43-51 stitches evenly = 200-216-232-248-272-300 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work next row from right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight cast-off edge use circular needle size 5.5 mm).

SLEEVE:
Slip the 44-52-54-56-58-62 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under sleeve = 52-60-64-66-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards while working, this is later used for decreasing. Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 2 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every other round 1-5-2-3-0-2 times in total = 50-50-60-60-70-70 stitches. When piece measures 7-8-8-6-8-6 cm, work pattern in the round as follows:
Work A.14a over all stitches (= 5-5-6-6-7-7 repetitions of 10 stitches). When A.14a has been worked, there are 70-70-84-84-84-84 stitches on needle. Continue on A.14b. Repeat A.14b vertically until piece measures approx. 41-38-38-36-34-32 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders and longer sleeve cap) – adjust to finish after a whole repetition vertically. Continue on A.14c. When A.14c has been worked, there are 35-35-42-42-42-42 stitches on needle. Knit 1 round while decreasing 3-3-6-6-2-2 stitches evenly = 32-32-36-36-40-40 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 5 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl (to avoid a tight cast-off edge use double pointed needles size 5.5 mm). Sleeve measures approx. 48-45-45-43-41-39 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.09.2019
New charts:
A.9 and A.10 (row 23, missing a YO).
A.11 and A.12 (row 15, missing a YO).
Updated online: 17.10.2019
New chart A.4 (row 1).

Diagram

= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over (= hole)
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted (= NOT hole)
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
= this square is not a stitch, go directly to next symbol in diagram
= last increase on front piece and back piece










Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Charlotte Dokkedal 29.07.2020 - 13:33:

Rigtig flot trøje, men vil gerne anvende Drops alpaka silk. Kan opskriften anvendes direkte med dette garn.?

DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 15:28:

Hej Charlotte, ja du kan bruge DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk, prøv vores garnomregner, så ser du hvor meget du skal bruge :)

Meri Crescenzi 20.03.2020 - 23:30:

Molto bella la lavorazione, il modello e il colore.

Criss 22.02.2020 - 13:04:

C’est ok, j’ai trouvé :) je continue le tricot ! Merci pour votre patience :)

Criss 21.02.2020 - 16:25:

Cela je comprends ... C’est le premier rang que je ne sais pas comment commencer . En tricotant la taille L, après le rang envers de séparation des manches, Je dois commencer directement le premier rang par le point fantaisie de la flèche : 2 m ensemble, 1 jeté, 11 mailles ? Ou par tout un rang endroit sans motif? Je ne sais pas où me positionner sur la grille A.9a après le rang de séparation sur l’envers.

DROPS Design 24.02.2020 kl. 07:48:

Bonjour Criss, dans tous les diagrammes vous commencez par 2 rangs jersey (= vous commencez au 1er rang de A.9a/A.10a = 2 rangs jersey), puis vous tricotez le point fantaisie comme avant d'après le rang 3, ex au rang 3 de A.9a: 1 m end, 1 jeté, 1 dim, 4 m end. Bon tricot!

Criss 21.02.2020 - 11:50:

Bonjour, je commence le dos & devants. Faut il tricoter le 1 er rang endroit une seconde fois en commençant par le rang avec la flèche de la taille ? (L) en ajoutant les mailles raglans où faire tout un rang à l’endroit sans motif ? Je ne comprends pas à quel endroit je dois commencé ce rang .... j’ai déjà monté les mailles supplémentaires et mis les marqueurs au milieu des 10 mailles. Je ne comprends pas la suite ... Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 21.02.2020 kl. 13:23:

Bonjour Criss, le rang de division a été tricoté sur l'envers et vous avez maintenant 193 mailles au total, tricotez ces mailles ainsi - en commençant au 1er rang de chacun des diagrammes dans cette taille: 5 m point mousse, A.9a (= 7 m), A.10a (= 14 m), A.11a (= 16 m), 18 m jersey (le marqueur du côté est au milieu de ces 18 m), A.12a (15 m), 33 fois les 14 m de A.10a, A.11a (= 16 m), 18 m jersey (le 2ème marqueur est au milieu de ces 18 m), A.12a (15 m), A.10a (= 14 m), A.13a (8 m), 5 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

Chris 17.02.2020 - 17:14:

Je tricote la taille L ... Donc normalement il y a 14 mailles pour le raglan et manches. Les 16 mailles ne sont-elles pas pour la taille XL? Car en respectant les explications et le diagramme je termine bien avec a113 mailles mais comme expliqué avant, je commence avec 5+15 mais je termine avec 19+5. Pourtant le diagramme au milieu est correct....

DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 09:17:

Bonjour Chris, en taille L, vous commencez bien avec 14 m pour les manches + 1 jeté de chaque côté = vous avez donc 16 m pour chacune des manches. Vous avez 16 mailles dans A.1 et A.3 et 31 m dans A.2 = vous avez augmenté et avez donc maintenant 113 mailles, tout me semble absolument juste tel que vous le décrivez. Bon tricot!

Chris 17.02.2020 - 16:18:

Merci pour votre retour, le problème c'est qu'en suivant le diagramme, les 4 mailles de plus se trouvent en fin d'aiguille... Donc je ne termine pas avec 15+5 mais avec 19+5. Il y a donc un décalage d'un côté à l'autre... car de l'autre coté, je commence avec 5 + 15... D'où vient l'erreur ? Merci

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 16:55:

Bonjour Chris, après le 1er rang, vous devez avoir: 5 m de bordure, 16 m de A.1, 2 m de raglan, 16 m de manche, etc... placez bien un marqueur à chaque transition pour bien visualiser chaque diagramme et que votre décompte soit juste pour que la suite des diagrammes soit juste également. Bon tricot!

Chris 17.02.2020 - 15:45:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé le tricot en taille L. (96 mailles + 9 augmentations=105 mailles). Ensuite je continue comme détaillé avec le motif : 105 mailles + 5+15+2+1+14+1+2+29+2+1+14+1+2+15+5= 109 mailles pourtant au final j'ai 113 mailles ...? Je me retrouve avec 4 mailles en trop à la fin de l'aiguille. J'ai défais et refais, toujours le même résultat... Pouvez vous m'aider ? Merci beaucoup !

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 16:02:

Bonjour Chris, à la fin du 1er rang, vous devez bien avoir 113 mailles car vous avez augmenté 8 mailles au total: 2 pour chaque manche, 1 pour chaque devant et 1 m pour le dos, soit: 105 m + 8 = 113 m. Dans vos 109 mailles décomptées il doit manquer les jetés faits dans les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

Arja 21.01.2020 - 01:50:

Ska man fortsätta med raglanlinjen och omslagen efter att man satt maskor på tråd till ärm, lagt upp nya maskor och fortsätter med mönster A9-A13?

DROPS Design 27.01.2020 kl. 13:37:

Hei Arja. Nei, da fortsette du med forklaringen som står under bolen (OK). God Fornøyelse!

Linda Clark 05.01.2020 - 23:05:

I dont' understand this instruction re sleeves. " Continue on A.14c. When A.14c has been worked, there are 35-35-42-42-42-42 " - there is no mention of reductng stitches and there is nothing in the 14c diagram to suggested stitches have been reduced - 14c is 5 x 14 = 70 stitches - is there a missing sentence?

DROPS Design 06.01.2020 kl. 07:18:

Hi Linda, A.14C has 2 rounds and the second round is knit all stitches together 2 and 2, which gives the reduction in the number of stitches. Happy knitting!

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