White Feather by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Melody. Size: S - XXXL

  • White Feather / DROPS 199-43 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Melody. Size: S - XXXL
  • White Feather / DROPS 199-43 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Melody. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern ml-029
Yarn group D
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
200-250-250-250-250-300 g colour 01, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 14 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 mm, length 60 or 80 cm.
DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 6 mm – for rib on sleeves.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

ACCESSORIES: 6 wooden beads for decoration – with ½ cm hole (in diameter) in the middle so they can be thread easily.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 3.50 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 3.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work front and back piece back and forth on needle. Divide the front piece into a vent mid front at the neck and then work in 2 parts up to shoulders. Work sleeves back and forth on needle.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 62-68-72-78-86-92 stitches on needle size 8 mm with Melody. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Then work in stocking stitch with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 12 cm in all sizes, continue with stocking stitch over all stitches until piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm. Work in stocking stitch over the first 28-31-33-36-40-43 stitches, garter stitch over the next 6 stitches and stocking stitch over the last 28-31-33-36-40-43 stitches. Work like this until 2 ridges have been work over the 6 middle stitches. Now divide the piece in the middle to form a vent in the neck, slip half of the stitches on a stitch holder. Now work right and left part of front pieces separately = 31-34-36-39-43-46 stitches on each part.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work in stocking stitch with 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the middle until piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, now cast off for armhole in the side as follows on every row from wrong side: Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 stitch 4-3-2-1-2-3 times. There are 24-26-27-28-29-31 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch with 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the middle until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm and next row is from right side.
Now slip stitches and cast off for neck mid front as follows: Work 3 stitches in garter stitch and 3 stitches in stocking stitch, then slip these 6 stitches on a stitch holder. Work the rest of row and purl 1 row from wrong side. Now cast off stitches as follows on every other row from right side: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time, cast off 1 stitch 3-3-3-4-4-4 times. There are 13-15-16-16-17-19 stitches on needle for shoulder. Cast off all stitches when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work in stocking stitch with 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the middle until piece measures 48-49-50-51-52-53 cm, now cast off for armhole in the side as follows on every row from right side: Cast off 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 0-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 stitch 4-3-2-1-2-3 times. There are 24-26-27-28-29-31 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch with 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the middle until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm and next row is from wrong side.
Now slip stitches and cast off for neck mid front as follows: Work 3 stitches in garter stitch and 3 stitches in stocking stitch, then slip these 6 stitches on a stitch holder. Work in stocking stitch the rest of row and knit 1 row from right side. Now cast off stitches as follows on every other row: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time, cast off 1 stitch 3-3-3-4-4-4 times. There are 13-15-16-16-17-19 stitches on needle for shoulder. Cast off all stitches when piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece (but now without dividing for vent) until piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm. Now cast off stitches for neck in the middle as follows from right side: Work 14-16-17-17-18-20 stitches in stocking stitch (right shoulder), cast off the next 20-20-20-22-22-22 stitches and work 14-16-17-17-18-20 stitches in stocking stitch (left shoulder). Turn and purl over the first 14-16-17-17-18-20 stitches, turn and knit 2 together and knit the rest of row = 13-15-16-16-17-19 stitches. Turn and purl 1 row from wrong side and cast off by knitting on next row from right side. Left shoulder is now done. Cut the yarn, now work and cast off on right shoulder, the stitches are still on the needle. Begin from wrong side, purl 1 row from wrong side. Turn and knit from right side until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit these 2 together. Turn and purl 1 row from wrong side. Turn and cast off knitting from right side. Right shoulder is now done.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 stitches on needle size 6 mm with Melody. Work rib back and forth with knit 1/purl 1 until piece measures 8 cm in all sizes. Switch to needle size 8 mm, work 1 row in stocking stitch while increasing 12 stitches evenly = 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches on needle. Work in stocking stitch until piece measures 14 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch in each side by knitting the 2 outermost stitches together from right side. Repeat decrease when piece measures 27-27-26-26-25-24 and 40-40-38-38-36-34 cm = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches on needle. Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 51-50-49-48-46-44 cm, now cast off for sleeve cap in each side every other row as follows: 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 2-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 stitch 3-3-3-2-3-4 times. Then cast off all stitches.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams, sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.

NECK EDGE:
Work an edge around the neck, begin by slipping stitches from right front piece on to needle size 8 mm without working them, pick up approx. 50-58 stitches around the next, slip stitches from left front piece on a needle and work over these stitches. There are approx. 62-70 stitches on needle. Work in garter stitch back and forth over all stitches until 2 ridges have been worked. Cast off on next row from right side, cut and fasten the yarn.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew in sleeves, sew edge to edge with neat little stitches. Sew seam under sleeve. Begin at rib and sew up to armhole, then sew side seam down until 12 cm remain at the bottom for vent. Repeat under the other sleeve and along the other side. Cut and fasten the yarn.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 2 lengths of 3 metres each. Twine the strands together until they make resistance, fold the string double and it will twines itself again. Thread 3 small beads on the end of each string, and tie a knot so that the string remains twined and the beads stay on.
Make 2 small tassels and attach one to the end of each string, below the beads, like so: Cut 8 strands of approx. 20 cm, keep the strands together and fold in the middle. Tie another strand approx. 1-2 cm below fold to fasten the tassel. Attach tassel to the string by pulling string through loop at the top of tassel and make a knot. Then fasten string at the edge in each side of neck edge mid front. 

Diagram

diagram measurements
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Daisie wrote:

Please photograph your model standing up so that we can see the garment better. Thank you:)

16.08.2021 - 05:03

country flag Marie wrote:

Uppdatera gärna texten att det ska maskas av till armhål även på bakstycket. Det är otydligt. Står att man ska sticka tills arbetet mäter 67 cm. Då tror man att man bara ska sticka på tills dess. Otydligt!

22.04.2021 - 08:12

country flag Mira wrote:

UND wie macht sich das bei der Gesamtmenge Garn bemerkbar? Brauche ich dann mehr Garn als angegeben oder weniger?

07.03.2021 - 23:15

DROPS Design answered:

siehe Antwort unten :)

08.03.2021 kl. 09:35

country flag Mira wrote:

Kann ich diesen Pullover auch mit dem Garn Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk stricken? Was muss ich bei der Maschenanzahl etc beachten?

07.03.2021 - 23:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Mira, 1 Faden Melody können Sie durch 2 Fäden Brushed Alpaca Silk ersetzen (versuchen Sie unseren Garnumrechner um die neue Garnmenge kalkulieren zu lassen), und stricken Sie dann mit der gleichen Maschenprobe in beiden Fällen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2021 kl. 09:35

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Hei! Kjempefin genser og flott mønster. Men jeg er litt forvirret over den tvunnede tråden. Det står at man skal klippe to ~3 m lange tråder, tvinne de sammen, og deretter sette perler på hver av trådene. Skal man tvinne de to trådene separat eller sammen?

15.04.2020 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hej De ska tvinnas separat så att du får två stycken som sedan festes ytterst i hver side. Mvh DROPS design

16.04.2020 kl. 10:29

country flag Claudia wrote:

For the sleeves, is there no need to cast-off/decrease for the armholes, as in the back and front pieces?

17.03.2020 - 11:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Claudia, yes you do, when sleeve measures 51-50-49-48-46-44 cm, you will start to cast off for sleeve cap in each side every other row ( = 3 stitches 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 stitches 2-1-2-2-3-3 times and 1 stitch 3-3-3-2-3-4 times). Happy knitting!

17.03.2020 kl. 11:55

country flag Vana wrote:

Hello! I would like to know if there is a pattern for the beautiful hat as well. Thank you

13.07.2019 - 08:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Vana, we do not have any pattern for the hat, it's not a handmade hat sorry. Happy knitting!

15.07.2019 kl. 09:03

country flag Carin wrote:

Dålig bild

09.06.2019 - 18:35

country flag Claudia wrote:

I don't think the instructions for the back are correct. There are not enough worked stitches. I'm working the smallest size. I cast on 62 stitches. After knitting over these for 65cm the instructions say 14 stiches for right shoulder, 20 for center, and 14 for left shoulder, that's 48 stitches, not 62. What's happened to the other 14 stitches?

31.05.2019 - 10:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Claudia, you cast on 62 sts and work as on front piece = you will cast off and decrease for the armholes on each side when piece measures 48 cm: 3 sts 1 time and 1 st 4 times (= 7 sts x 2 sides = 14 sts cast off and decreased for the armholes), so that you have: 62 - 14= 48 sts. Happy knitting!

31.05.2019 kl. 11:07

country flag Diana wrote:

Super leuk model

10.02.2019 - 01:38

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