DROPS / 202 / 26

Robin Song Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with V-neck in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-196
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g colour 13, orange

KNITTING TENSION:
15 stitches in width and 19 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM: length 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: length 60 or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 4 items in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.7. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 99 stitches) minus edge stitches (= 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 19) = 5.1.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for neck on back piece):
All decreases worked from right side.
Decrease 1 stitch after the 2 stitches in garter stitch from the neck as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch before the 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck as follows: Knit 2 together.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.7 under the sleeve, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, A.7, knit 2, make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work new stitches in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES (bottom up):
Work buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit the yarn over = hole.
Work buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 5, 14, 23 and 32 cm.
M: 5, 14, 23 and 32 cm.
L: 6, 15, 24 and 33 cm.
XL: 5, 15, 25 and 35 cm.
XXL: 6, 16, 26 and 36 cm.
XXXL: 7, 17, 27 and 37 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections which are sewn together to finish. Sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 99-105-111-123-135-144 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left on row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 6 mm. Now knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 19-21-21-25-27-28 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 80-84-90-98-108-116 stitches. Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! At the beginning of the next 2 rows cast off 1-1-1-3-4-4 stitches for armholes = 78-82-88-92-100-108 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, work garter stitch over the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches on the row. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches work the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 32-34-36-38-41-45 stitches and place on 1 thread for right shoulder, cast off the next 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches for neck and work the remaining 32-34-36-38-41-45 stitches. Then finish the shoulders separately. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole, 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches. On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 31-33-35-37-40-44 stitches. Continue working until the armhole measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm. Cast off. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 54-57-60-66-72-75 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in side and 4 band stitches towards mid front) with circular needle size 5 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left on row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 6 mm. Work the next row from the right side as follows: Work A.1 over the first 16 stitches (the first 4 stitches in garter stitch = band), stocking stitch until there is 1 stitch left on row, at the same time as you decrease 10-11-11-13-14-13 stitches evenly spaced and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 44-46-49-53-58-62 stitches. Continue back and forth like this and repeat A.1 in height. Remember BUTTONHOLES! When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, work A.2 over A.1. When A.2 has been completed in height you have decreased 6 stitches for neck. Continue this pattern and decrease in the same way until you have decreased a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 stitches for the neck. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast off 1-1-1-3-4-4 stitches for armhole on the next row from the side. When all decreases for neck and armhole are finished there are 31-33-35-37-40-44 stitches on the needle. Continue with A.3 over the outermost 7 stitches towards the neck, stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole until the armhole measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm – adjust to match the back piece. Cast off. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 54-57-60-66-72-75 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in side and 4 band stitches towards mid front) with circular needle size 5 mm and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 5 stitches left on row, knit 1 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 4 cm. Change to circular needle size 6 mm. Work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stocking stitch until there are 16 stitches left at the same time as you decrease 10-11-11-13-14-13 stitches evenly spaced and then A.4 over the last 16 stitches (the last 4 stitches in garter stitch = band) = 44-46-49-53-58-62 stitches.
Continue back and forth like this and repeat A.4 in height. When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, work A.5 over A.4. When A.5 has been completed in height you have decreased 6 stitches for neck. Continue this pattern and decrease in the same way until you have decreased a total of 12-12-13-13-14-14 stitches for neck. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, cast off 1-1-1-3-4-4 stitches for armhole on the next row from the side. When all decreases for neck and armhole are finished there are 31-33-35-37-40-44 stitches on the needle. Continue with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stocking stitch and A.6 over the outermost 7 stitches towards the neck until the armhole measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm – adjust to match the right front piece and back piece. Cast off. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-42-45-48-48-51 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm. Knit 1 round 1. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm. The next round is worked as follows: Knit 2, work A.7 over the next 2 stitches, knit to end of round at the same time as you decrease 9-8-8-10-9-11 stitches evenly spaced = 33-34-37-38-39-40 stitches. Continue in the round with stocking stitch and A.7 mid under sleeve. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 8-9-9-9-8-8 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of A.7 – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Increase alternately every 6 and 7 cm a total of 6 times.
Size M: Increase every 5 cm a total of 7 times.
Size L: Increase every 5 cm a total of 7 times.
Size XL: Increase every 4 cm a total of 8 times.
Size XXL: Increase alternately every 3 and 4 cm a total of 9 times.
Size XXXL: Increase every 3 cm a total of 10 times.
When all the increases are finished there are 45-48-51-54-57-60 stitches on the needles.
Then continue in the different sizes as follows:
Sizes S, M and L
Continue working until the piece measures 47-47-46 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.
Sizes XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue working until the piece measures 44-41-39 cm (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Finish the round in the middle of diagram A.7 (= mid under sleeve). Now continue back and forth with stocking stitch over all stitches, so that you can sew the sleeve to the armhole. When you have worked back and forth with stocking stitch for 2-3-3 cm, the sleeve measures a total of 46-44-42 cm. Cast off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the cast off edge. Sew sleeves to body. Sew side seams inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. Sew buttons to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 29.05.2019
Correction - SLEEVES: Cast on 42-42-45-48-48-51 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm...at the same time as you decrease 9-8-8-10-9-11 stitches evenly spaced = 33-34-37-38-39-40 stitches...When all the increases are finished there are 45-48-51-54-57-60 stitches on the needles.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to leave a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-26) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Lillian 25.06.2020 - 19:37:

Jeg vil ha denne jakken ca 15 til 20 cm lengre,hva gjør jeg i forhold til oppskriften strikker jeg bare rettstrikking til jeg skal felle til ermet og strikker den så mye lengre jeg vil ha den i så fall hva med forstykkene,de har jo mønster foran.

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 09:47:

Hei Lillian. Bare pass på at du har samme lengde på bakstykket og begge framstykkene når du skal felle til ermene og at du strikker A.2 over A.1 x antall cm før du feller til ermene (x = hvor mange ektra cm du skal strikke). Pass på at du også har nok garn og husk knappehullene. God Fornøyelse!

Lillian 03.06.2020 - 18:47:

ER DENNE JAKKEN INNSVINGET,JEG REAGERER PÅ AT DET ER SÅ MANGE MASKER SOM FELLES LANGT NEDE.

DROPS Design 04.06.2020 kl. 08:17:

Hei Lillian, Masker er felt fordi det er flere masker på vrangborden enn trengs for bolen - dette hindrer at vrangborden er stram. God fornøyelse!

Rachel 25.05.2020 - 15:21:

Hello, I am wondering about the knitting gauge for this pattern. this pattern uses 5mm needles for the cuffs and 6mm for the main body. Is the knitting gauge done on 5mm or 6mm needles? (I asked this question yesterday and just had a response but the link came up as 404 page not found) many thanks

DROPS Design 25.05.2020 kl. 16:26:

Dear Rachel, oh sorry for the link in the other answer, it should work fine - but as asnwered there, your swatch should be worked with larger needes = in stocking stitch with needle size 6 mm. Happy knitting!

Cindy 07.07.2019 - 14:03:

Beim Armausschnitt des Rückenteils heißt es für Größe M „für die nächsten 2 Reihen beidseitig eine Masche abnehmen“, es sind 84 Maschen auf der Nadel. Dann heißt es danach sind 82 auf der Nadel, müssten es dann nicht nur 80 sein? Muss ich nun insgesamt 2 oder 4 Maschen abnehmen?

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 10:03:

Liebe Cindy, am Anfang der nächsten beiden Reihen ketten Sie 1 Masche ab, dh nach der 1. Reihe haben Sie 1 M am Anfang der Reihe abgekettet (= 83 M bleiben), wenden, am Anfang der nächsten Reihe 1 M abketten = 82 M sind jetzt übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Natalia 26.05.2019 - 22:54:

Hi! I’m making a cardigan using written pattern for the first time and got a little stuck on this moment: “When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm, work garter stitch over the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches on the row.“ Could you please advise what I would need to do with stitches on the left and right of those middle ones? Thank you!

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 01:43:

Dear Natalia, the middle stitches knit with garter stitch to give the neck a bit of an edge that does not roll. All the other stitches should be knitted as before, unless otherwise stated. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

Cindy 25.05.2019 - 10:27:

Hallo, meinen Sie die Jacke wird auch mit der Bomull Lin als Alternative gut aussehen? Dann ist die Jacke fast doppelt so dick wie Original. Oder jetzt für den Sommer mit der Brushed Alpaca Silk, wofür man jedoch nur knapp die Hälfte an Garn benötigt?

DROPS Design 27.05.2019 kl. 09:53:

Liebe Cindy, dieses Modell wird mit Air (= Garngruppe C) gestrickt, Sie können ein anderes Garn derselben Garngruppe = C benutzen = gleiche Maschenprobe aber, da unterschiedlichen Garne auch unterschiedliche Struckturen haben, wird das fertige Strickstück unterschiedlich aussehen - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen - Ihr DROPS Laden wird Ihnen gerne weiterhelfen, eine Alternative zu finden. Garnumrechner können Sie auch benutzen, um die neue Garnmenge zu kalkulieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Vibeke 20.04.2019 - 09:10:

Jeg har strikket trøjen i den størrelsen jeg plejer at bruge men trøjen er alt for stor - nu har jeg strikket den i den mindste størrelse og den passer fint - jeg tror størrelserne i opskriften er forkerte

Alex 03.04.2019 - 20:00:

Hei. Det mangler tegninger til beskrivelsen av mønsteret som skal lages på denne. Boksene er tomme. Å er det meningen av høyre forstykke skal ha 3 rettmasker i vrangborden under armen? For har følgt det dere beskriver og da ender det opp slik på største str. 😊

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 15:19:

Hej Alex, jo diagrammer og diagramtekster finder du nederst i opskriften samme med måleskitsen. God fornøjelse!

Carol 21.01.2019 - 17:05:

As with 197, love the simple, classic design. Will definitely make when pattern becomes available! Thanks

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