DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
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Talvik

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL Knitted hat with Nordic pattern and pompom in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS 197-10

#talviksweater

DROPS design: Pattern z-831
Yarn group A
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YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 54/56 - 54/56 - 58/60 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 618, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 607, light beige brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 2020, light camel
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 403, medium brown

YARN FOR JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 618, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 607, light beige brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 2020, light camel
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 403, medium brown

YARN FOR HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 618, light beige
50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50 g colour 607, light brown
50-50 g colour 2020, light camel
50-50 g colour 403, medium brown

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JUMPER:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch/Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm: for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch/Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm: for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: length 40 cm for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Hat: See diagram A.3.
Work all stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 6.2. In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.
When increasing make a yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 4 stitches remain before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to hat):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). Repeat at each of the remaining marker threads.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 124-128-136-140-148-152 stitches on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. Knit 1 round. Now work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 20-20-20-20-20-20 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 104-108-116-120-128-132 stitches. Knit 1 round.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Now work pattern A.1 (= 4 stitches) 26-27-29-30-32-33 times in total on round. On round with black star in A.1 increase 20-24-20-24-32-36 stitches evenly – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 228-240-252-264-288-300 stitches (including the 4 stitches increased in every repetition of A.1.
Now work pattern A.2 in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on round with arrow increase evenly as follows:
ARROW-1: Increase 24-36-36-36-36-36 stitches = 252-276-288-300-324-336 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 24-24-36-36-36-36 stitches = 276-300-324-336-360-372 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 24-24-24-36-36-36 stitches = 300-324-348-372-396-408 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches = 312-348-372-396-420-432 stitches.
When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures 20 cm from cast-on edge. Now work piece in light beige and stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on first round
increase 14-10-14-17-20-14 stitches evenly. Increase like this every 4th-4th-5th-6th-8th-8th round 1-2-2-2-2-4 times in total = 326-368-400-430-460-488 stitches. Then work until piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from cast-on edge. Work next round as follows: Knit 49-54-58-64-70-75 (= half back piece), slip the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit 99-109-117-129-140-151 (= front piece), slip the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 50-55-59-65-70-76 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 218-238-258-282-308-334 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move the marker threads upwards when working. Continue in the round with light beige and stocking stitch. When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 8th round 9 times in total = 254-274-294-318-344-370 stitches. Continue like this until piece measures 27 cm. Knit 1 round while increasing 82-86-94-106-116-122 stitches evenly - remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 336-360-388-424-460-492 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 74-85-95-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under sleeve. Begin round here and work in stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 4 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease like this every 10th-8th-6th-6th-6th-4th round 7-3-9-5-1-18 times and every 8th-6th-4th-4th-4th-2nd round 4-12-10-14-20-4 times = 52-55-57-60-62-65 stitches. When sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-31-30 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round while increasing 16-17-19-20-18-19 stitches evenly - remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2. When rib measures 5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid a tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches). Sleeve measures approx. 43-41-40-38-36-35 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Work in the round on a short circular needle. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.

HAT:
Cast on 120-132 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 2 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern A.3 (= 12 stitches) 10-11 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.3 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 14-14 cm. Then work in stocking stitch in the round with light beige. When piece measures 15-15 cm, insert 6 marker threads in the piece, 20-22 stitches apart each marker thread. On next round, decrease 1 stitch before every marker thread – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every other round 14-17 times in total = 36-30 stitches. Knit 2 and 2 stitches together until there are 9-8 stitches on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24-26 cm. Make a pompom approx. 6 cm in diameter. Use 3 strand light camel, 1 strand off white and 1 strand light beige to make pompom and fasten at the top of hat.

Diagram

	= off white
	= off white
	= light camel
	= light beige
	= light brown
	= medium brown
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
	= increase round - read explanation in pattern
	= ncrease round - read explanation in pattern

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 5 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #talviksweater or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Talvik

Cheryl, United States

Talvik

Antje, Germany

Talvik

Zsuzsa, Austria

Talvik

Bożena, Poland

a Talvik Sweater

Cindy, Netherlands

Talvik

Cheryl, United States

Talvik

Antje, Germany

Talvik

Zsuzsa, Austria

Talvik

Bożena, Poland

a Talvik Sweater

Cindy, Netherlands

Comments / Questions (91)

Nicoletta wrote:

Buongiorno ,sto guardando la leggenda dei diagrammi , perché ci sono due simboli diversi per lo stesso colore , il panna? Grazie

06.01.2025 - 15:57

Mechthilde Roth wrote:

Wie ist das mit dem Muster an der passe hab jetzt 108 maschen auf der N Nadel komm mit der Zunahme auf 240 Maschen nicht klar .Wird das Muster öfter gestrickt?

05.01.2025 - 12:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Roth, über die 108 Maschen stricktn man die 4 Maschen A.1 insgesamt 27 Mal (27x4=108). In jedem A.1 wird man zunehmen (siehe Umschläge) so daß es 8 Maschen in jedem A.1 sind (27x8=216 M nach der letzten Zunahmen in A.1). Dann bei der Runde mit dem Sternchen wird man 24 Maschen regelmäßig verteilt zunehmen= 216+24=240 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

06.01.2025 - 10:12

Annick DESCHAMPS wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais faire le pull taille M et commander la laine mais apparement il n'y a plus de brun moyen (403) que me conseillez vous de prendre à la place? Merci de votre réponse

28.10.2024 - 14:57

Bonjour Mme Deschamps, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin qui vous proposera les coloris actuels les plus adaptés, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

28.10.2024 - 16:31

Magda Leijssen wrote:

Het patroon Talvik ben ik aan het breien Is er een correctie van dat patroon want het klopt niet Ik heb al een heel stik moeten uittrekken van de pas Het klopt toch niet dat je moet minderen na de pas en de rest is allemaal meerderen Na patoonA1 heb ik niet genoeg steken Ik hoop dat jullie me kunnen helpen

23.09.2024 - 17:30

Jeanne wrote:

Hallo, hoe laat ik bij het breien van trui Talvik met een rondbreinaald het patroon op het achterpand netjes doorlopen?

21.07.2024 - 19:16

21.07.2024 - 19:14

Dag Jeanne,

Helaas zie je altijd wat een verspring in het patroon aan het begin/einde van de naald. Er is wel een methode (die ook bij strepen breien gebruikt wordt) die je eventueel toe kunt passen om ervoor te zorgen dat het wat minder opvalt. Zie deze video.

22.07.2024 - 21:10

Loelia wrote:

Good morning, Is the alpaca yarn used for this pattern undyed? I would like to use undyed alpaca, would it be possible to indicate which colours are undyed, if any? The first 9 colours, or maybe 12? look like they might be undyed. I'm knitting the sweater for someone with medical problems who does better with undyed fabric so I want to be sure. With many thanks for your patience and assistance :)

06.07.2024 - 11:52

Dear Loelia, only Alpaca 0100 is undid. Happy knitting!

29.07.2024 - 08:08

Marie wrote:

Hi, is there an A1 pattern? Just looking on the page and only seeing A2 and 3

28.05.2024 - 02:06

Hi Marie, The diagram for A.1 is to the right of the size sketch at the bottom of the page. Happy crafting!

28.05.2024 - 06:36

Darchis Chantal wrote:

Bonsoir pourriez-vous me dire si les rang envers sont marqués sur les diagrammes merci

01.05.2024 - 18:36

Bonjour Mme Darchis, tout à fait, tous les rangs figurent dans les diagrammes, comme on tricote en rond, on va lire tous les rangs/tours de droite à gauche, en commençant par le bas. Bon tricot!

02.05.2024 - 08:21

Nathalie Grauls wrote:

Pouvez-vous m'expliquer dans le schéma A.1 ce que signifie l'ovale au début du 1er et 13eme rangs ? Et à la fin du 3eme et 11eme rangs ? Quelle différence entre le carré=naturel et carré avec un rond=naturel ? Merci beaucoup.

29.04.2024 - 15:49

Bonjour Mme Grauls, l'ovale correspond au 7ème symbole de la légende des diagrammes, autrement dit, il s'agit d'1 jeté tricoté torse au tour suivant pour éviter un trou. On augmente ainsi 4 mailles au total dans chaque A.1 tout le tour + 20-24-20-24-32-36 mailles à intervalles réguliers au tour avec une étoile pour avoir ainsi 228-240-252-264-288-300 mailles quand A.1 est terminé. Bon tricot!

30.04.2024 - 07:39

Talvik

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL Knitted hat with Nordic pattern and pompom in DROPS Alpaca.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

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How to choose yarn

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to cast off from the right side

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Talvik

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL Knitted hat with Nordic pattern and pompom in DROPS Alpaca.

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	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca	3.40 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca 3.40 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca 3.50 £ /50g Order