DROPS / 197 / 10

Talvik by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL Knitted hat with Nordic pattern and pompom in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS design: Pattern z-831
Yarn group A
----------------------------------------------------------

YARN FOR THE ENTIRE SET:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Head circumference: 54/56 - 54/56 - 54/56 - 58/60 - 58/60 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-400-400 g colour 618, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 607, light beige brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 2020, light camel
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 403, medium brown

YARN FOR JUMPER:
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 618, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 607, light beige brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 2020, light camel
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 403, medium brown

YARN FOR HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50 g colour 618, light beige
50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50 g colour 607, light brown
50-50 g colour 2020, light camel
50-50 g colour 403, medium brown

----------------------------------------------------------
ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

JUMPER:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch/Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm: for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm: length 40 and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

HAT:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch/Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm: for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: length 40 cm for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 40 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

----------------------------------------------------------

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN: 
Jumper: See diagrams A.1 and A.2.
Hat: See diagram A.3.
Work all stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 124 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreased/increases to be done (e.g. 20) = 6.2. In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together. 
When increasing make a yarn over after approx. every 6th stitch. On next round work yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 4 stitches remain before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to hat):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). Repeat at each of the remaining marker threads.

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked in the round on circular needle from mid back, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 124-128-136-140-148-152 stitches on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. Knit 1 round. Now work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round while decreasing 20-20-20-20-20-20 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 104-108-116-120-128-132 stitches. Knit 1 round.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Read KNITTING TIP and REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! 
Now work pattern A.1 (= 4 stitches) 26-27-29-30-32-33 times in total on round. On round with black star in A.1 increase 20-24-20-24-32-36 stitches evenly – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 228-240-252-264-288-300 stitches (including the 4 stitches increased in every repetition of A.1.
Now work pattern A.2 in the round, AT THE SAME TIME on round with arrow increase evenly as follows:
ARROW-1: Increase 24-36-36-36-36-36 stitches = 252-276-288-300-324-336 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 24-24-36-36-36-36 stitches = 276-300-324-336-360-372 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 24-24-24-36-36-36 stitches = 300-324-348-372-396-408 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 12-24-24-24-24-24 stitches = 312-348-372-396-420-432 stitches.
When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, piece measures 20 cm from cast-on edge. Now work piece in light beige and stocking stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on first round
increase 14-10-14-17-20-14 stitches evenly. Increase like this every 4th-4th-5th-6th-8th-8th round 1-2-2-2-2-4 times in total = 326-368-400-430-460-488 stitches. Then work until piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from cast-on edge. Work next round as follows: Knit 49-54-58-64-70-75 (= half back piece), slip the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), knit 99-109-117-129-140-151 (= front piece), slip the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 50-55-59-65-70-76 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 218-238-258-282-308-334 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move the marker threads upwards when working. Continue in the round with light beige and stocking stitch. When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 8th round 9 times in total = 254-274-294-318-344-370 stitches. Continue like this until piece measures 27 cm. Knit 1 round while increasing 82-86-94-106-116-122 stitches evenly - remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 336-360-388-424-460-492 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid at tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Jumper measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece double pointed needles/a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 74-85-95-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under sleeve. Begin round here and work in stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 4 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-1! Decrease like this every 10th-8th-6th-6th-6th-4th round 7-3-9-5-1-18 times and every 8th-6th-4th-4th-4th-2nd round 4-12-10-14-20-4 times = 52-55-57-60-62-65 stitches. When sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-31-30 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round while increasing 16-17-19-20-18-19 stitches evenly - remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2. When rib measures 5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid a tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches). Sleeve measures approx. 43-41-40-38-36-35 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

----------------------------------------------------------

HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Work in the round on a short circular needle. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.

HAT:
Cast on 120-132 stitches on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/purl 2) for 2 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work pattern A.3 (= 12 stitches) 10-11 times in total on round. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.3 has been worked vertically, piece measures approx. 14-14 cm. Then work in stocking stitch in the round with light beige. When piece measures 15-15 cm, insert 6 marker threads in the piece, 20-22 stitches apart each marker thread. On next round, decrease 1 stitch before every marker thread – read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every other round 14-17 times in total = 36-30 stitches. Knit 2 and 2 stitches together until there are 9-8 stitches on needle. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24-26 cm. Make a pompom approx. 6 cm in diameter. Use 3 strand light camel, 1 strand off white and 1 strand light beige to make pompom and fasten at the top of hat.

Diagram

= off white
= off white
= light camel
= light beige
= light brown
= medium brown
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes.
= increase round - read explanation in pattern
= ncrease round - read explanation in pattern


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Paola Canovaro 03.12.2019 - 11:53:

Sto eseguendo il modello,dopo la fine degli aumenti con le frecce fino ad arrivare all'inizio del corpo i calcoli sono sbagliati Grazie sono da rivedere. Sulla domanda che ho fatto prima,sto facendo la taglia al grazie. Prosím, kdy bude přeloženo do češtiny? Děkuji

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 16:43:

Buongiorno Paola. I calcoli del numero delle maglie ci sembrano corretti. A questo link trova il testo in ceco. Buon lavoro>!

Corinne GUILLET 01.11.2019 - 11:14:

Bonjour, dans les modèles, lorsque vous donnez le numéro des aiguilles, est ce la taille ou les données en mm, information sur le carton Romance Pro. Merci pour vos précisions. Cordialement

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 14:57:

Bonjour Mme Guillet, tout à fait, la taille des aiguilles indiquées dans les modèles français est en système métrique, taille indiquée sur nos aiguilles. Bon tricot!

Diane 28.08.2019 - 19:16:

Bonjour,quand je reprend les 64 ms des manches, vous dites relever 1 maille dans chacune des 10 ms sous la manche =74ms. si ont dit 64+10+10=84ms svp m'expliquer ?merci

DROPS Design 29.08.2019 kl. 08:59:

Bonjour Diane, quand vous avez sauté les mailles des manches à la fin de l'empiècement, vous avez monté 10 m au-dessus des mailles mises en attente pour chacune des manches, vous avez donc 64 m mises en attente et vous relevez 1 maille dans chacune des 10 mailles que vous avez monté au dernier tour de l'empiècement, soit 74 m au total pour chaque manche. Bon tricot!

Cathrine Persson 03.08.2019 - 21:18:

Hei. Når man skal strikke rapport A1, står det at man skal øke 24 masker jevnt fordelt ved stjerne. Strikker str M. Tilsammen etter A1 skal man ha 140 masker inkl 4 masker økt gjennom mønsteret. Da mangler det 4 masker når man starter med 108 masker. Har prøvd å regne på de forskjellige str, kun str S stemmer slik jeg ser. Er det en feil et sted?

DROPS Design 22.08.2019 kl. 10:20:

Hej. I storlek M stickar du A.1 27 gånger. Du har i början 108 m (4 x 27 =108 m). När du har ökat 4 maskor i A.1 består den av 8 m. 8 x 27 = 216 m. 24 m ska ökas på ökningsvarvet med svart stjärna. 216+24 = 240 m. Lycka till!

Claudine 10.07.2019 - 15:34:

Bonjour , après les augmentations du 1er rang sur A1 ou dois je augmenter ensuite pour parvenir a 216 mailles.Je ne comprends pas votre schéma Merci pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 10.07.2019 kl. 16:00:

Bonjour Claudine, on augmente 1 maille dans chaque A.1 au 1er tour, au 3ème tour, au 11ème tour et au 13ème tour (cf jetés dans le diagramme) = vous avez désormais 8 m dans chaque A.1 soit 8 m x 27 = 216 m. Au tour avec une étoile dans A.1, vous augmentez 24 m à intervalles réguliers = 240 m. Bon tricot!

Anne TUPIN 15.05.2019 - 14:08:

Pour ce modèle (DROP 197-10), je ne comprends pas à quel moment je dois augmenter les 82 mailles mentionnées au 6e rang du paragraphe "DOS & DEVANT". Par ailleurs, faut-il effectuer ces augmentations sur un même rang ? Sinon, doivent-elles se faire de manière progressive sur plusieurs rangs, jusqu'à l'arrivée aux côtes en bas du pull ?

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 15:06:

Bonjour Mme Tupin, quand le dos et le devant (après la séparation des manches) mesure 27 cm, vous tricotez 1 tour endroit et sur ce tour, vous répartissez 82 augmentations (voir ici comment faire = vous avez maintenant 336 mailles sur l'aiguille et vous continuez au tour suivant en côtes 2 m end/2 m env avec l'aiguille 2,5. Bon tricot!

Olaug 25.03.2019 - 19:54:

Rekker opp for 3 gong. Strikka på frå armhole på nytt utan å felle - fortsatt alt for stor. No 3. gong legg eg inn felling i midje.

Grete Simpson 12.03.2019 - 19:30:

Hva er overvidden i de forskjellige størrelsene?

DROPS Design 13.03.2019 kl. 15:59:

Hej Grete Slik leser du en målskisse God fornøjelse!

Karin 23.02.2019 - 13:55:

Ifølge oppskriften skal man strikke 27 cm fra begynnelsen på bolen og ned til vrangborden i alle størrelser. Jeg har strikket den lengre enn det, men genseren er mye kortere fra skulderen og ned enn det totale målet genseren skal være ifølge oppskriften. Det står også at man skal øke 86 masker før vrangborden i str M, men genseren blir jo kjempevid hvis man gjør det? Stemmer det at det skal være sånn, eller er det feil i oppskriften?

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 14:20:

Hei Karin. Det kan høres ut som du ikke helt overholder strikkefastheten. Stemmer lengden på bærestykket med målskissen (24 cm i M)? det er fort gjort å strikke for stramt, særlig i mønsterstrikken. Om ikke strikkefastheten er overholdt vil lengden bli kortere. Det stemmer at bolen skal måle 27 cm i alle størrelser, før det strikkes vrangbord i 4 cm. Det økes masker før vrangborden for at det ikke skal bli en markant viddeforskjell på bol og vrangbord. Vrangbord er mer elastisk enn glattstrikk og trekker seg derfor mer sammen. På denne modellen skal vrangborden være like vid som resten av genseren, derfor økes 86 masker før vrangborden. God fornøyelse

Jacqueline 19.02.2019 - 12:18:

Bij de beschrijving voor de armen staat: 'Minder zo iedere 10e-8e-6e-6e-6e-4e naald 7-3-9-5-1-18 keer en iedere 8e-6e-4e-4e-4e-2e naald 4-12-10-14-20-4 keer = 52-55-57-60-62-65 steken.' Moet ik eerst elke 10e naald 7x minderen en daarna elke 8e naald 4x of moet ik beiden gelijktijdig minderen?

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 11:28:

Dag Jacqueline,

Je mindert inderdaad eerste elke 10e naald 7 keer en daarna elke 8e naald 4 keer, en niet tegelijkertijd.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 197-10

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Talvik

Françoise Laugier-Morun, Germany