DROPS / 197 / 11

Talvik Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Alpaca. Piece is knitted top down with Nordic pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern z-832
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 618, light beige
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 607, light beige brown
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 2020, light camel
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 403, medium brown

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm: for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm: length 40 and 80 cm for stocking stitch/Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm for rib
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 mm, length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 7-7-7-7-7-7 pieces

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 2.25 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 2.25 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Work all stitches in stocking stitch.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease/increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 132 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decrease/increases to be done (e.g. 17) = 7.1. In this example decrease by knitting approx. every 6th and 7th stitch together and do not decrease of bands. 
If increasing increase after approx. every 7th stitch (increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole.

KNITTING TIP-1 (applies to bands):
When working pattern border with two colours on yoke, also work with base colour in pattern border over the 5 band stitches in each side.

KNITTING TIP-2:
To avoid the knitting tension to tighten when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 4 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn): Work from right side until 3 stitches remain at the end of row, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 7 buttonholes, approx. 7-7½-7½-8-8½-8½ cm between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. Work sleeves in the round on a short circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed. 

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 132-136-140-144-152-160 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – read explanation above. When rib measures 3 cm, knit 1 row from right side while at the same time decreasing 17-17-13-13-13-17 stitches evenly - read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 115-119-127-131-139-143 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side. Then work yoke as explained below. 

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Read KNITTING TIP-1 AND KNITTING TIP-2. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work pattern from the right side follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 1 stitch), work A.2 (= 4 stitches) 26-27-29-30-32-33 times in total in width, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. On row with black star in A.2 increase 20-24-20-24-32-36 stitches evenly – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 239-251-263-275-299-311 stitches (including the 4 stitches increased in every repetition of A.1).
Now work pattern as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.3 (= 1 stitch), A.4 until 5 stitches remain on row, 5 band stitches in garter stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on row with arrow increase evenly as follows:
ARROW-1: Increase 24-36-36-36-36-36 stitches = 263-287-299-311-335-347 stitches.
ARROW-2: Increase 24-24-36-36-36-36 stitches = 287-311-335-347-371-383 stitches.
ARROW-3: Increase 12-24-24-36-36-36 stitches = 299-335-359-383-407-419 stitches.
ARROW-4: Increase 28-28-28-28-28-28 stitches = 327-363-387-411-435-447 stitches.
When entire A.3 and A.4 has been worked vertically, piece measures 20 cm from cast-on edge. Now work piece in light beige over all stitches until finished measurements. Continue in stocking stitch and with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase 10-8-8-10-12-13 stitches evenly
Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-6th-8th-8th row 1-2-3-3-3-4 times in total = 337-379-411-441-471-499 stitches. Then work until piece measures 22-24-26-28-30-32 cm from cast-on edge. Work next row from right side as follows: Knit 55-60-64-70-75-81 (= front piece), slip the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), knit 99-109-117-129-141-151 (= back piece), slip the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 55-60-64-70-75-81 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 229-249-269-293-319-345 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 60-65-70-76-82-89 stitches in from each side = 109-119-129-141-155-167 stitches between marker threads on back piece. Continue in stocking stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. When piece measures 4 cm from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 8th row 9 times in total = 265-285-305-329-355-381 stitches on needle. Continue like this until piece measures 27 cm. Purl 1 row from wrong side while increasing 83-87-95-107-117-123 stitches evenly = 348-372-400-436-472-504 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work next row from right side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid a tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as stitches). Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece a short circular needle size 3 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 74-85-95-98-104-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under sleeve. Begin round here and work in stocking stitch in the round. When sleeve measures 4 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 10th-8th-6th-6th-6th-4th round 7-3-9-5-1-18 times and every 8th-6th-4th-4th-4th-2nd round 4-12-10-14-20-4 times = 52-55-57-60-62-65 stitches. Work until sleeve measures 38-36-35-33-31-30 cm from division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), knit 1 round while increasing 16-17-19-20-18-19 stitches evenly = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2. When rib measures 5 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl but to avoid a tight cast-off edge make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches). Sleeve measures approx. 43-41-40-38-36-35 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

Diagram

= off white
= off white
= light camel
= light beige
= light brown
= medium brown
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole.
= increase row - read explanation in pattern
= increase row - read explanation in pattern


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 197-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Torhild Grimstad 02.10.2019 - 20:03:

Hvorfor skal det økes ut så mange masker før Bråtet ?

DROPS Design 03.10.2019 kl. 10:58:

Hej Torhild, mener du før bærestykket?

Ulrika Berg 16.09.2019 - 17:28:

Hej! Jag förstår inte hur jag ska börja sticka oket. Jag förstår att jag först stickar A1 = 1 maska och sedan upprepar A2. Men vad är det jag ska upprepa av A2? Raden längst ner = 4 maskor? Eller ska jag följa mönsterbeskrivningen rad för rad upp på samma varv i stickningen ? Eller ska jag sticka en rad av mönsterbeskrivningn i taget? Alltså först A1 och sedan A2 tills jag betat av alla rader i mönstret för A1+A2? Tack!

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 15:44:

Hej Ulrika, ja du börjar sticka första varv i diagrammet längst ner, när du kommer till 4:e varv ökar du enligt beskrivningen till din storlek. Fortsätter enligt diagrammet och ökar vid varje pil. Lycka till :)

Jasmin 07.05.2019 - 20:16:

Hallo liebes Drops Team,\r\nkann es sein das man die 1. Reihe Passe mit A.1 enden sollte zwecks Symmetrie und Muster ? \r\n2.Frage : Evtl Ab und zu nur die Blendmaschen hin und zurück Stricken, damit sich die Blende nicht so sehr nach oben zieht ? \r\nLiebe Grüße \r\nJasmin

DROPS Design 08.05.2019 kl. 08:14:

Liebe Jasmin, die erste Reihe mit Farbemuster bei der Passe wird so gestrickt: (Hinreihe): 5 Blendemaschen, A.1 (für die Symetrie) und dann A.2 wiederholen, und mit 5 Blendemaschen enden. Bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie dann: 5 Blendemaschen, A.2 wiederholen und mit A.1 und 5 Blendemaschen enden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Agneta Bergkvist 04.03.2019 - 16:05:

Maskantalet stämmer ej med mönstret, från oket då det först minskas efter resår halskant, kvar då är 119 m (stlkM) Sen vid oket, ökas först 24 m sen ska det helt plötsligt finnas 251 m. Stämmer ej vad gör jag för fel?

DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 08:06:

Hej. Det ska vara 251 m när A.1 och A.2 är färdigstickade. A.2 stickas 27 gånger per varv och i hela diagrammet finns totalt 4 ökningar (varv 1,3,11,13), dvs att när hela diagrammet är färdigstickat så har det ökats 27x4=108 m + de 24 m du ska öka på varvet med svart stjärna. 119+108+24=251 m. Lycka till!

Bente Dalen 23.02.2019 - 12:12:

Jeg har fått til første omgang på bærestykket, men skal det strikkes A1, A2 likedan videre? Skal det strikkes mønster på vrangen?

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 14:24:

Hei Bente. Ja, du fortsetter diagrammene rad for rad oppver, så det må strikkes mønster fr vrangen. Husk at diagrammene viser alle pinner sett fra rettsiden, så når du strikker fra vrangen må du lese diagrammene motsatt vei (altså fra venstre mot høyre). God fornøyelse

Bente Dalen 23.02.2019 - 12:08:

Jeg har fått til første pinne på bærestykket, men skal det strikkes A1, A2 likedan videre? Skal det strikkes mønster på vrangen også?

Lena Sköld 19.02.2019 - 14:34:

Jag får inte antalet mönstergrupper att stämma. Gör jag fel då jag stickarA1-A2-A1-A2.......och så vidare.Får mindre antal grupper.

DROPS Design 20.02.2019 kl. 15:53:

Hei Lena. Du skal strikke slik: 5 stolpemasker i rille, A.1 over den neste masken, så gjentar du A.2 26-27-29-30-32-33 ganger, over alle maskene til det gjenstår 5 masker. De siste 5 maskene strikkes i rille. Det er altså kun A.2 som skal gjentas. A.1 strikkes bare 1 gang, rett etter/før venstre stolpe. God fornøyelse

Irene 25.01.2019 - 16:43:

På varv ett på A2 är det en oval ring i början. Betyder det att det ska ökas en maska?

DROPS Design 30.01.2019 kl. 09:07:

Hej Irene, ja en oval ring betyder att du skall öka med 1 omslag mellan 2 maskor. Lycka till :)

Irene Thorzen 23.01.2019 - 18:00:

Vilket annat garn kan jag använda?

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 14:25:

Hej Irene, Klicka på vår Garn konverterare i mönstret. Skriv in Alpaca, antal gram i din storlek och 1 tråd, så får du garnåtgång på 9 garnalternativ (från garngrupp A). Lycka till :)

Anja 15.01.2019 - 23:32:

Tak for en fin opskrift. Jeg kan dog ikke få det til at passe med maskeantallet i opskriften. Jeg er nået til bærestykke, hvor jeg til en medium har 119masker på pinden. Minus kantmaskerne er det 109masker. Der står så A1 (=1 maske) strik A2 (=4 masker) totalt 27 gange i bredden. Men 109/5 = 21,8, så jeg kan ikke få det til 27 gange i bredden. Måske I kan hjælpe mig videre? På forhånd tusind tak!

DROPS Design 21.01.2019 kl. 13:28:

Hei Anja. Etter 5 stolpemasker i rille, strikker du A.1 over den første masken, så du skal strikke A.2 over 108 masker. 108/4 = 27 ganger, og så strikkes rille over de siste 5 maskene. Du har nå strikket over alle 119 maskene. God fornøyelse

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