DROPS / 195 / 25

Mellow Monday by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Melody. The piece is worked with texture and displacement on front piece. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ml-026
Yarn group D or A + A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MELODY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group D)
250-250-300-300-350-350 g colour 03, pearl grey

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
13 stitches in width and 19 rows in height with texture (A.1/A.2) = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: length 80 cm.
The needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide
from 2.45 £ /50g
DROPS Melody uni colour DROPS Melody uni colour 2.45 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.25£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1:
All increases are made from the right side!
Work as far as the mid-stitch, make 1 yarn over, knit mid-stitch, make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn overs to leave holes. Then work the new stitches in texture (A.1/A.2).

INCREASE TIP-2:
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole. Then work the new stitch in garter stitch.

DECREASE TIP-1: 
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch after the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Knit 2 together.
Decrease 1 stitch before the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on row, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

DECREASE TIP-2: 
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 35 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 3) = 11.6. In this example, decrease by alternately knitting together each 10th and 11th stitch and each 11th and 12th stitch (approx.).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections with circular needle and sewn together to finish. Front and back pieces are worked bottom up. Sleeves are worked top down.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 83-87-95-99-107-115 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and Melody. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch on the row (= mid-stitch); there are 41-43-47-49-53-57 stitches on each side of the marker thread. The marker thread follows your work upwards. Work pattern from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see description above, work A.1 as far as mid-stitch, knit 1 (= mid-stitch, which is knitted from right side and purled from wrong side to finished length), work A.2 until there is 1 stitch left on row, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth, AT THE SAME TIME on the next row decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and increase 1 stitch on each side of the mid-stitch - read DECREASE TIP-1 and INCREASE TIP-1. Decrease and increase every 4th row onwards. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 35-36-35-36-37-37 cm measured along the side, work the next row from the right side as follows: Work pattern as before as far as the mid-stitch and place these stitches on a thread (= 41-43-47-49-53-57 stitches for left shoulder). Cast off the next stitch (= mid-stitch) = 41-43-47-49-53-57 stitches on right shoulder. Insert a marker thread in each side of the piece. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

RIGHT SHOULDER:
= 41-43-47-49-53-57 stitches. Work pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and continue to decrease inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole every 4th row 6-6-7-7-7-8 times = 35-37-40-42-46-49 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck – read INCREASE TIP-2 and decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Increase and decrease every 2nd row a total of 5 times (number of stitches remains the same). Now work short rows – adjust so that the next row is worked from the wrong side as follows:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work pattern as before until there are 6 stitches left on row, tighten strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Turn and work back.
ROW 3: Work pattern until there are 4 more stitches left than the previous time (= 10 stitches), tighten strand.
ROW 4: Turn and work back.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 and turn when there are 4 more stitches left than the previous time 4-4-4-6-6-7 more times (= a total of 5-5-5-7-7-8 times) and then when there are 3-3-3-3-5-5 more stitches left than the previous time 3-3-4-2-2-2 times. Work 1 row back from the wrong side over all stitches, where you decrease 3-2-3-3-3-4 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 32-35-37-39-43-45 stitches. Cast off with knit from the wrong side. The piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder down, measured along the side.

LEFT SHOULDER:
= 41-43-47-49-53-57 stitches. Work pattern as before with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side and continue to decrease inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole every 4th row 6-6-7-7-7-8 times = 35-37-40-42-46-49 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck – read INCREASE TIP-2 and decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. Increase and decrease like this every 2nd row a total of 5 times (number of stitches stays the same). Now work short rows – adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Work pattern as before until there are 6 stitches left on row, tighten strand.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Turn and work back.
ROW 3. Work pattern until there are 4 more stitches left than the previous time (= 10 stitches), tighten strand.
ROW 4: Turn and work back.
Repeat rows 3 and 4 and turn when there are 4 more stitches left than the previous time 4-4-4-6-6-7 more times (= a total of 5-5-5-7-7-8 times) and then when there are 3-3-3-3-5-5 more stitches left than the previous time 3-3-4-2-2-2 times. Work 1 row back from the right side over all stitches where you decrease 3-2-3-3-3-4 stitches evenly on row – remember DECREASE TIP-2 = 32-35-37-39-43-45 stitches. Cast off with knit from the wrong side. The piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder down, measured along the side.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 77-83-89-93-101-107 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and Melody. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work pattern as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on the row, work the first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth until the piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm. Now insert a marker thread in each side of the piece (mark armholes and are used later when assembling). Continue until the piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm. Now work garter stitch over the middle 25-25-27-27-27-29 stitches on the row. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches, cast off the middle 13-13-15-15-15-17 stitches for neck (there are now 6 stitches in garter stitch on each side of the neck) and each shoulder is finished separately = 32-35-37-39-43-45 stitches on each shoulder. Continue with pattern, 6 stitches in garter stitch towards neck and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards armhole until the piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm. Work 1 ridge over all stitches and cast off with knit. If the cast-off edge is tight you can make 1 yarn over after each 4th stitch. The yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. Work the other shoulder in the same way. The piece measures approx. 62-64-66-68-70-72 cm from the shoulder down measured along the side.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 41-43-47-49-51-55 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and Melody. Work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 until there are 2 stitches left on row, work first stitch in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern back and forth. When the piece measures 4 cm decrease 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side – remember DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease like this every 14th-12th-10th-8th-7th-5th row a total of 5-6-7-7-8-9 times = 31-31-33-35-35-37 stitches. Continue until the sleeve measures 43-42-41-40-38-36 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting stitches. Insert a marker thread in the front piece 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm from the shoulder and down in each side (mark armholes). Sew sleeves to body between the marker threads on front and back pieces – sew inside the 1 edge stitch on body and inside the cast-on edge on sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams in one go inside the 1 edge stitch. Repeat on other side.

Diagram

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Andréa 14.11.2019 - 16:36:

Bonjour, Les explications des rangs raccourcis ne sont pas très claires . Phrases trop compliquées peut être ? 3 fois pour 3 mailles en plus ?,? merci

DROPS Design 15.11.2019 kl. 07:49:

Bonjour Andrea, vous laissez d'abord 6 mailles non tricotées en fin de rang (sur l'envers pour l'épaule droite), puis 4 mailles en plus (= 10 mailles au total), puis encore 4 mailles en plus (= 14, 18, 22, etc... mailles au total), et enfin vous laissez 3 m de plus non tricotées en fin de rang (le nombre de mailles non tricotées en fin de rang augmente ainsi de 3 m tous les rangs sur l'envers). Bon tricot!

Jeanette 10.10.2019 - 15:44:

Ik heb n vraag over de voorkant van de rechter en linker schouder. Klopt het dat de buitenkant van de schouder hoger is dan de binnenkant (bij de hals)? Of moet het juist andersom zijn? Dat is me niet duidelijk.

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 19:05:

Dag Jeanette,

Door het meerderen en minderen in het patroon ontstaat er een diagonaal patroon waardoor er een schuine lijn in de schouder ontstaat, waarbij de schouder aan de kant van het armsgat hoger is. Dit wordt gecompenseerd door verkorte toeren te breien, zoals aangegeven, zodat wanneer er afgekant wordt wanneer het schouder klaar is, je een rechte schouderlijn hebt, net als op het achterpand.

Hannah 23.09.2019 - 08:40:

Gegenfrage zur Antwort vom 23.09.19: Ein Rippmuster entsteht doch aber erst dann, wenn ich (neben den HR: rechten Maschen, auf die natürlich laut Muster RR: linke Maschen folgen) die Maschen, die ich in der HR links gestrickt habe, in der RR rechts stricke, oder? Denn wenn die linken Maschen der HR in der RR wieder links gestrickt werden, erscheinen diese von vorne doch als rechte Maschen und die Rippe (vertikal) ist somit nicht rein sondern in gewisser weise kraus. Danke nochmals!

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 10:05:

Liebe Hannah, die Maschen, die Sie links bei der Hinreihen stricken (= Kreuz im Diagram) sind bei der Rückreihen links gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Hannah 20.09.2019 - 21:15:

Hallo, Ich stricke den Pullover mit Melody und kann kein wirkliches Rhytmus erkennen. Ich frage mich ob das Muster ein nach außen laufendes reines Rippmuster ist, oder eines, das immer wieder durch die Rückreihen unterbrochen wird (so wie ich es dem Diagramm entnehme)? Darum: werden in der Rückreihe ALLE Maschen links gestrickt? Oder wird in der Rückreihe gestrickt wie die Maschen erscheinen? Vielen Dank im Voraus!

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 08:06:

Liebe Hannah, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, dh die Hin- sowie die Rückreihen, bei der 1. Reihe (= Hindreihe) in A.1 stricken Sie 1 M re, 1 M li und in A.2: 1 M li, 1 M re - bei der 2. Reihe (= Rückreihe) stricken Sie alle Maschen links. So bekommt mann ein Rippenmuster. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Elena 16.06.2019 - 17:00:

Se volessi fare questo modello ma in cotone o cotone/lino. Che filato mi consigliate? E devo usarlo a più fili? Mi potete anche dire la quantità per la XXXL? Grazie mille!

DROPS Design 16.06.2019 kl. 20:36:

Buongiorno Elena. Alla seguente pagina trova indicazioni utili per sostituire i filati. Può usare p.es 3 capi del filato Safran, 2 capi del filato Belle, 2 capi del filato Muskat, 1 capo di Paris e 1 di Safran, 1 capo di Bomull Lin e 1 di Safran. Può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia che saprà aiutarla nella scelta e di conseguenza anche sulla quantità di filato necessaria. Buon lavoro!

Maria 15.05.2019 - 06:58:

God dag! Jeg strikker med Melody i denne farve (anden model) og jeg synes garnet afsætter . mange fnuller/stumper. Har I et tip til at undgå det/minimere det? Det gælder både strikketøjet når man er i gang med det og det færdige resultat. Jeg strikker sammen med to tråde Fabel (en jakke).

DROPS Design 15.05.2019 kl. 09:39:

Hej Maria, Ja du finder tips om DROPS Melody inde på farvekortet. DROPS Melody - Vaskeanvisning

Simone Puyo 02.04.2019 - 00:30:

Boa noite. Amo as receitas de vocês e passo aqui apenas para informar um pequeno erro que há na tradução do padrão acima. A frente e as costas da peça, na tradução para o português, estão indicadas como feitas “de cima para baixo” mas como podemos verificar no padrão original e na análise do desenvolvimento da blusa, essas partes são feitas de baixo para cima. Espero ter ajudado. Abraços e obrigada pelo excelente trabalho!

Christine 07.02.2019 - 10:54:

Danke, Iwona Knitter für die Frage. Jetzt habe ich es auch verstanden :-)

Iwona Knitter 04.02.2019 - 15:38:

Noch mal vielen, vielen Dank. Jetzt habe ich es besser verstanden. jetzt kann ich los legen. MfG Iwona

Iwona Knitter 02.02.2019 - 17:59:

Hallo. Ichwollte mich für die Anwort sehr bedanken. Leider habe ich mich verschrieben. Es ging tatsächlich um Vorderteil. Da verstehe ich die Abnahme und Zunahme bei dem V-Ausschnitt und Ärmel. SG Iwona

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 11:44:

Liebe Iwona, bei dem Rechten Schulter nehmen Sie zuerst Maschen für den Armausschnitt ab (=6-7-8 x je nach der Grösse), dann stricken Sie wie zuvor mit Ab- und Zunahme damit die Maschenanzahl immergleich wird. Dann stricken Sie die verkürzten Reihen damit die Schulter "gerade" sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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