DROPS Snow
100% Wool
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Cool Kicks

Crocheted slippers in DROPS Snow. Sizes 35 - 43.

DROPS 193-6

#coolkicksslippers

DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-635
Yarn group E or C + C
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Sizes: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg height: approx. 16 - 17 - 18 cm
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
200-250-250 g colour 14, dark grey
100-100-100 g colour 02, black
100-100-100 g colour 01, off white

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET TENSION:
14 double crochets in width and 17 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 MM.
The hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
The area marked with grey has already been worked; it just shows how the next round is worked in the stitches/rows.

CROCHET INFORMATION-1 (in the round):
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch, i.e. skip the first stitch from the previous round. The round ends with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch from the beginning of the round.

COLOUR CHANGE-1:
To get a neat transition when changing colour, work the last double crochet before the colour change as follows: Insert the hook in the last stitch, pick up the strand, make a yarn over with the new colour and pull it through all loops on the hook. Continue with the new colour.

COLOUR CHANGE-2 (decoration):
Crochet the slip stitch at the end of the first round with the new colour.

CROCHET INFORMATION-2 (for when working back and forth):
Each row starts with 1 chain stitch; the chain stitch does not replace the first double crochet.

2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Insert the hook in the next stitch, pick up the strand *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SLIPPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round from the sole and up the edge. Then a half circle is worked on top of toe; this is worked together with the edge of the sole. Then you work a band, sides/back piece back and forth and a front edge for the laces. To finish, you work a flap, decoration and twisted cord (for laces).
Be careful when changing colour as you work, and read PATTERN above.

SOLE:
The sole is worked in the round, starting mid under the sole.
Work a row of 22-24-28 chain stitches (= the area marked with grey in diagram A.1) with hook size 5 mm and black.
Then work in the round (i.e. on either side of this row of chain stitches) as follows:
Work A.1a over the first chain stitch, insert 1 marker here (= mid front of toe), work A.1b over the same chain stitch, work A.1c over the next 20-22-26 chain stitches (= 10-11-13 repeats of 2 stitches), work A.1d and A.1e over the last chain stitch, continue in the round on the opposite side of the row of chain stitches, i.e. work A.1f over these 20-22-26 chain stitches (= 10-11-13 repeats of 2 stitches). Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When A.1 has been completed there are 72-76-84 double crochets on the last round. Cut and fasten strand.
NOTE: If the marker has been displaced slightly, replace it so that it is mid front of toe.

EDGE OF SOLE:
The edge is worked in the round.
Start the next round in the middle of the one side of the sole, i.e. start in the 18th-19th-21st double crochet before the marker. Work towards the toe with off white as follows:
ROUND 1: Read CROCHET INFORMATION-1. Work 1 double crochet in the back loop of each double crochet.
ROUND 2: Now work normal double crochets through both loops - work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 3: Now work half a stripe at the end of the round on the heel as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 36-38-42 double crochets, change to black – read COLOUR CHANGE-1, and work 1 double crochet in each of the last 36-38-42 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Change to off white and work 1 double crochet in each double crochet = 72-76-84 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

TOP OF TOE - HALF CIRCLE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 5 mm and off white and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Then work back and forth according to diagram A.2. When A.2 has been completed there are 20 double crochets on the last row – do not cut the strand! Insert 1 marker mid front (= 10 double crochets on each side of marker) Follow the arrow in the diagram; you are now working sideways, i.e. around the rows on A.2. Work A.3 back and forth over these stitches. When A.3 has been completed there are 7 double crochets on the last row. Change to black – the next round of assembly starts here – from the right side!

ASSEMBLY (edge of sole and half circle):
Lay the half circle onto the edge of the sole; the marker on the half circle should meet the marker mid front of edge; In other words, start in the 13th stitch before the marker on the sole, work 1 round with black through both layers as shown in diagram A.4 (= 25 double crochets and 1 chain stitch which is equivalent to 1 double crochet), continue with 1 double crochet in each of the remaining 46-50-58 double crochets on the sole = 72-76-84 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

BAND:
Work a small band which later will be crocheted together with the last row on the side piece. Work back and forth with off white as follows:
ROW 1: Work 5 chain stitches, turn and work 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches = 4 double crochets.
ROWS 2-9: Read CROCHET INFORMATION-2! Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the band to one side.

SIDES/BACK PIECE:
Work a side piece back and forth from the last round on the edge. Do not work over the 18 double crochets mid front (9 double crochets on each side of the marker in front).
Work over the remaining 54-58-66 double crochets – starting from the right side as follows:
ROW 1: Remember CROCHET INFORMATION-2. Work with dark grey. Work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER - read description above, 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there are 2 double crochets left on the row, work 2 double crochets together (= 2 double crochets decreased).
ROW 2: Repeat row 1 = 50-54-62 double crochets.
ROW 3: Work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 19-21-25 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 19-21-25 double crochets, finish with 2 double crochets together (= 4 double crochets decreased) = 46-50-58 double crochets.
ROW 4: Repeat row 1 = 44-48-56 double crochets.
ROW 5: Work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 16-18-22 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 16-18-22 double crochets, finish with 2 double crochets together (= 4 double crochets decreased) = 40-44-52 double crochets.
ROW 6: Repeat row 1 = 38-42-50 double crochets.
ROW 7: Repeat row 1 = 36-40-48 double crochets.
ROWS 8-11: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet = 36-40-48 double crochets.
Insert 1 marker on this row – THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
ROW 12: Work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-1-4 double crochets, * 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 double crochets *, work from *-* a total of 6-7-8 times, finish with 2 double crochets together (= 8-9-10 double crochets decreased) = 28-31-38 double crochets.
ROW 13: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 7-7-10 double crochets, work 2 double crochets in each of the next 14-16-18 double crochets and 1 double crochet in each of the last 7-8-10 double crochets = 42-47-56 double crochets.
Then work back and forth with 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the piece measures approx. 9-10-11 cm from the marker.
The next row is worked as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 7-7-10 double crochets, work 2 double crochets together a total of 14-16-18 times, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 7-8-10 double crochets = 28-31-38 double crochets.
The next row is worked together with the band (the band is placed on the right side of the slipper) from the right side as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 12-13-17 double crochets, fold the band in 2 and work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets through all 3 layers, then work 1 double crochet in each of the last 12-14-17 double crochets. Do not cut the strand!

FRONT EDGE FOR LACES:
Work 1 edge down the rows where you increased/decreased as follows: Work * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 row, work 1 double crochet around the next row *, repeat from *-* along the whole diagonal edge, finish with 1 slip stitch in the last row. Cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 edge on the other diagonal side in the same way, but reversed; i.e. start at the bottom with 1 slip stitch in the first row, finish with 1 slip stitch at the top of the diagonal edge. Cut and fasten the strand.

FLAP:
Continue by working a flap back and forth in the 7 double crochets which were worked across the top of the half circle. Work with dark grey.
ROW 1: Remember CROCHET INFORMATION-2! Work 2 double crochets in the first double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 stitches, work 2 double crochets in the last double crochet = 9 double crochets.
ROW 2: Work 2 double crochets in the first double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 7 stitches, work 2 double crochets in the last double crochet = 11 double crochets.
Repeat row-2, 0-1-1 time = 11-13-13 double crochets.
Then work 1 double crochet in each double crochet until the flap measures approx. 14-15-16 cm. Then work as follows: * 1 double crochet in each double crochet, turn and work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there are 2 double crochets left, work 2 double crochets together (= 2 double crochets decreased) *, work from *-* a total of 2 times = 7-9-9 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

DECORATION:
Work 3 chain stitches with off white and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 1: Work 2 chain stitches (= 1 half treble crochet), work 11 half treble crochets around the ring, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch, change to black – read COLOUR CHANGE-2 (decoration) = 12 half treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 chain stitch (= 1 double crochet), 1 double crochet in the first half treble crochet, work 2 double crochets in each of the remaining 11 half treble crochets = 24 double crochets.
Sew the decoration to the middle of one of the side pieces with small neat stitches.

CORD:
Work a twisted cord as follows: Cut 2 strands off-white, each 4 meters in length. Twist them together until they begin to resist, fold the strands double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Thread the cord through the chain-spaces in the same way as you would thread a running shoe and tie a bow.

Work 1 more slipper in the same way, but sew the decoration to the opposite side of the slipper.

Diagram

	= 1 chain stitch - this row of chain stitches is described in the text. The first round starts at the black oval symbol
	= the round begins with 1 chain stitch and ends with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round
	= 1 double crochet in stitch
	= 2 double crochets in same stitch
	= chain-stitch ring - this is described in the text. The first row starts at the point on the circle
	= 1 chain stitch
	= 2 double crochets around the chain-stitch ring
	= shows where to continue on the diagram
	= double crochet around the outermost double crochet on the row/around the chain-stitch ring
	= start here, work through both layers (= 26 double crochets)
	= continue in the round with 1 double crochet in each double crochet on the edge (= 46-50-58 double crochets)

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (16)

Karen wrote:

It say free download how do I do that ??

27.11.2024 - 21:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Karen, there is a printer icon in top right corner in the pattern. There are 2 options: 1. print pattern or 2. print photo. Happy knitting!

28.11.2024 - 08:31

Sophia wrote:

Please can anyone explain which way to follow diagram for largest size in cool kicks and also how to work the pattern it makes no sense to me thanks

28.10.2024 - 12:18

Dear Sophia, you have to read crochet diagrams as explained in the written pattern and when reading in the round from the beg of the round you read from the right towards the left; and when working back and forth the right side rows are read from the right towards the left and the wrong side rows are read from the left towards the right. You will find more explanations to diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

29.10.2024 - 08:34

Babette Naumann wrote:

Hallo, ich kann nicht gut Häckeln, gibt es diesen schicken Schuh auch als Strickanleitung?\r\nVielen Dank für ihre Mühe, mir zu antworten.\r\nBabette

09.01.2024 - 19:40

Liebe Babette, dieses Modell haben wir nur zum häkeln; hier finden Sie aber alle unsere Modelle für gestrickte Hausschuhen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.01.2024 - 09:23

Nathalie De Clerck wrote:

Hallo Hebben jullie ook de geschreven uitleg voor het telpatroon? Ik heb de blauwe sloffen al gehaakt - dewelke eigenlijk dezelfde zijn maar lager, maar er zit wel een verschil op mbt de steken met deze. Alvast bedankt voor de reactie. Groetjes Nathalie

21.05.2023 - 17:38

Elise wrote:

Ik begrijp het vastzetten van de halve cirkel niet. Begin je op de zoolrand met een vast en een losse wat als 1 steek telt? Wanneer ik hier door beide lagen moet haken dan worden mijn sloffen slechts 7 cm breed. De rest is super helder uitgelegd maar hier meer ik echt nog een stuk toelichting.

26.12.2020 - 10:07

Dag Elise,

Je begint bij het zwarte vierkantje en haakt dan eerst 1 losse, daarna haak je steeds 1 vaste door beide lagen in elke steek van de zool.

17.01.2021 - 14:01

Franciska wrote:

Ja, we begrijpen elkaar duidelijk niet. Die eerste toer is geen probleem.. ALLE symbolen begrijp ik. Alleen ik begrijp niet hoe ik verder ga met toer, 2 en 3 bijvoorbeeld. Tel ik naar boven in de tekening? Dus als ik in de 4e toer begin, als 2e steek, 2 vasten in 1 steek doe? Hoe kom ik dan weer bij het midden met 2 vasten in 1 steek? Dus toer 4 = 1 losse, 2 v in 1 steek dan 1 vaste in volgende 3 steken elk, dan 2 vasten in 1 steek, want midden?

27.11.2020 - 11:04

Dag Franciska,

Ne toer 4 is 1 losse, 1 vaste in de steek, 1 vaste in de steek, 2 vasten in de volgende steek (nu ben je in de zwarte lijn tussen A.1a en A.1 b), 2 vasten in de volgende steek, 1 vaste in de volgende steek, 1 vaste in de volgende steek, 1 vaste in de volgende steek (nu ben je bij de zwarte lijn tussen A.1b en A.1 c), A.1c en zo verder met A.1d en A.1 e.

p.s.: Zou het mogelijk zijn om langs te gaan bij een garenwinkel in de buurt, zodat iemand mee kan kijken? Dat werkt wellicht verhelderend.

30.11.2020 - 20:19

Irene wrote:

Uhyggelig vanskelig. Så her blir det ikke tøfler. Finner noe annet

18.11.2020 - 20:58

Dank voor reactie. Die 1e toer had ik. Maar als die af is, hoe kom ik dan bij de 2e. Ik kom uit bij zo'n zwarte stip.. (losse, halve vaste?) daarna 1 vaste in diezelfde steek? En dan dubbele vaste in dezelfde steek? Ga ik een rij verder op de tekening? Dus als ik in de 4e toer begin, als 2e steek, 2 vasten in 1 steek doe? Hoe kom ik dan weer bij het midden met 2 vasten in 1 steek? Dus toer 4 = 1 losse, 2 v in 1 steek dan 1 vaste in volgende 3 steken elk, dan 2 vasten in 1 steek, want midden?

18.11.2020 - 16:34

Je eindigt de toer met 1 halve vaste in de eerste losse op het begin van de toer en dan begin je met de volgende zwarte ovaal, dus met 1 losse.

19.11.2020 - 10:26

Ik begin bij de zool, maar geen idee hoe. Ik heb 24 lossen.. moet dan A.1a doen. Maar hoe? Begin ik dan met 'een losse, een vaste en dan 6 lossen'? En hoe kan het dat het minder is in de volgende toer van A.1a? Ik begrijp er totaal niets van.. help

12.11.2020 - 12:54

Je begint bij A.1 a, dus bij de zwarte ovaal in het midden en haakt in de rondte richting links, in de vorm van een cirkel haak je van binnenuit naar de rand toe. Het volgende symbool is dus 1 vaste in de steek en het symbool daarna is 2 vasten in dezelfde steek. Vervolgens ben je bij A.1 c. Deze moet je een aantal keren herhalen (Als je dat gebied in de teltekening uitrekt, zie ook duidelijker de vorm van een schoenzool). Zo ga je verder in de rondte hakend.

18.11.2020 - 13:05

Laura wrote: