DROPS Extra / 0-1378

Let's Walk by DROPS Design

Crochet slippers for Easter in DROPS Nepal. Sizes 35 - 43.

Tags: slippers,
DROPS Design: Pattern no ne-244
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150 g for all sizes in colour 8908, aqua blue
100 g for all sizes in colour 8911, sea blue
50 g for all sizes in colour 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM– or the size needed to get 17 double crochets and 20 rows on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO-1 (when working in the round):
Each round starts with 1 chain stitch which replaces the first double crochet and each round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

CROCHET INFO-2 (when working back and forth):
Each row starts with 1 chain stitch, the chain stitch does not replace the first double crochet.

COLOUR CHANGE:
To get a neat transition when changing colours, work the last double crochet before the colour change as follows: Insert the hook into the last stitch, pick up the strand, make a yarn over with the new colour and pull it through all the loops on the hook. Continue with the new colour.

2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Insert the hook in to the next stitch, pick up the strand *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull the yarn over through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 double crochet decreased).
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SLIPPER:
The piece is started by working in the round from the sole, bottom up. Then it is worked back and forth.

SOLE:
ROUND1: Work a row of 21-25-29 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn with) with hook size 4 mm and sea blue.
Work 4 double crochets in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, insert the first marker in the middle of these 4 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 18-22-26 chain stitches, work 4 double crochets in the last chain stitch, insert the second marker in the middle of these 4 double crochets, continue working around on the other side of the chain-stitch row, work 1 double crochet in each of the 18-22-26 stitches, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet = 44-52-60 double crochets. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 2: READ CROCHET INFO-1. Work * 1 double crochet in each stitch until there is 1 stitch left before the marker, work 2 double crochets in each of the next 2 stitches (the marker will continue to sit between these stitches) *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, work 1 double crochet in each stitch the rest of the round = 4 double crochets increased.
ROUND 3: Work as for round 2 = 52-60-68 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 double crochet in each stitch until there are 4 stitches left before the marker, 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 double crochets in each of the next 2 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches, 2 double crochets in the next stitch *, repeat from *-* a total of 2 times, work 1 double crochet in each double crochet the rest of the round = 8 double crochets increased.
ROUND 5 AND ONWARDS: Work as for round 4, 2-2-1 times then work as for round 2, 1-1-3 times = 80-88-96 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.
Use only the first marker from here. NOTE: If the marker has moved, it must be adjusted so that it sits mid front of the toe.

EDGE OF SOLE:
Start the next round in the middle of the one side, in other words, start in the 21st-23rd-25th double crochet before the marker. Work towards the toe with off white as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 double crochet in the back loop of each double crochet.
ROUNDS 2-3: Now work normal double crochets through both loops - work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROUND 4: Now work a half stripe at the end of the round on the heel as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 40-44-48 double crochets, change to sea blue – READ COLOUR CHANGE and work 1 double crochet in each of the last 40-44-48 double crochets.
ROUNDS 5-6: Change to off white. Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet = 80-88-96 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

TOP OF TOE – SEMI-CIRCLE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue working back and forth - READ CROCHET INFO-2!
ROW 1: Work 6 double crochets around the ring.
ROW 2: Work 2 double crochets in each double crochet = 12-12-12 double crochets.
ROW 3: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
ROW 4: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, * 2 double crochets in the next stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 stitches *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 double crochets in the last stitch = 16-16-16 double crochets.
ROW 5: Work 1 double crochet in the first double crochet, * 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 double crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 stitches = 20-20-20 double crochets.
ROW 6: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, * 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 stitches = 24-24-24 double crochets – do not cut the strand! Sizes 35/37 and 38/40 are continued from ALL SIZES.

SIZES 41/43:
ROW 7: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 3 double crochets, * 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 5 double crochets *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times, work 2 double crochets in the next double crochet, work 1 double crochet in each of the last 2 stitches = 28 double crochets – do not cut the strand!

ALL SIZES:
Work another row across, starting from the right side, i.e. around each row (= 6-6-7 rows on each side of the chain-stitch ring). Work back and forth as follows:
ROW 1: Skip the first row, work 1 double crochet around each of the next 5-5-6 rows, work 1 half treble crochet around the chain-stitch ring, work 1 double crochet around each of the next 5-5-6 rows, skip the last row, finish with 1 slip stitch in the start of the previous row = 11-11-13 stitches.
ROWS 2-5: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
Change to sea blue – the next round for assembly starts here – from the right side!

ASSEMBLY (the edge of the sole and the semi-circle):
Lay the semi-circle on top of the edge of the sole, the middle of the semi-circle (= 12-12-14 double crochets on each side) should meet the marker mid front of the edge. Work 1 round with sea blue in the round as follows: Remember CROCHET INFO-1! Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet/around every row through both layers = 80-88-96 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

BAND:
Work a small band which will later be worked together with the last row of the side piece. Work back and forth with off white as follows:
ROW 1: Work 5 chain stitches, turn and work 1 double crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 chain stitches = 4 double crochets.
ROWS 2-11: Remember CROCHET INFO-2! Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
Cut and fasten the strand. Lay the band to one side.

SIDES/BACK PIECE:
Work a side piece back and forth from the last round on the edge. You no longer work over the 24-24-28 double crochets mid front.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work with aqua blue. Work 1 double crochet in each of the remaining 56-64-68 double crochets.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work 2 DOUBLE CROCHETS TOGETHER – see description above, 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there are 2 double crochets left on the row, work 2 double crochets together (= 2 double crochets decreased).
ROW 3: Work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 21-25-27 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 21-25-27 double crochets, finish with 2 double crochets together (= 4 double crochets decreased) = 50-58-62 double crochets.
ROW 4: Repeat row 2 = 48-56-60 double crochets.
ROW 5: Work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 18-22-24 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets, 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the next 18-22-24 double crochets, finish with 2 double crochets together (= 4 double crochets decreased) = 44-52-56 double crochets.
Continue by repeating row 2, 7-9-9 more times = 30-34-38 double crochets on the last row.
Then work 6-6-6 rows with 1 double crochet in each double crochet = a total of 18-20-20 rows.
The last row is worked together with the band from the right side as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 13-15-17 double crochets, fold the band in 2 and work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 double crochets through all 3 layers, then work 1 double crochet in each of the last 13-15-17 double crochets. Do not cut the strand!

FRONT EDGE FOR SHOE LACES:
Work 1 edge down the rows which were decreased as follows: Work * 2 chain stitches, skip 1 row, work 1 double crochet around the next row *, repeat from *-* along the whole of the slanted edge, finish with 1 slip stitch in the last row = 9-10-10 chain-spaces. Cut and fasten the strand. Work 1 edge on the other side in the same way, but in reverse, i.e. start at the bottom with 1 slip stitch in the first row, finish with 1 slip stitch in the top.

FLAP:
Work a flap, continuing back and forth in the 11-11-13 double crochets which were worked across on top of the semi-circle. Work with aqua blue.
ROW 1: Remember CROCHET INFO-2! Work 2 double crochets in the first double crochet, 1 double crochet in each of the next 9-9-11 stitches, work 2 double crochets in the last double crochet = 13-13-15 double crochets.
ROW 2: Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet.
Repeat row 2, 17-19-19 more times, then work as follows: * Work 1 double crochet in each double crochet, turn and work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each double crochet until there are 2 double crochets left, work 2 double crochets together (= 2 double crochets decreased) *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-3-4 times = 7-7-7 double crochets. Cut and fasten the strand.

DECORATION:
Work 3 chain stitches with off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
ROUND 1: Work 3 chain stitches (= 1 treble crochet), work 11 treble crochets around the ring, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch, change to sea blue.
ROUND 2: Remember CROCHET INFO-1. Work 2 double crochets in each treble crochet = 24 double crochets.
Sew the decoration with small, neat stitches, to the middle of one side of the side piece.

CORD:
Work a twisted cord as follows: Cut 2 strands off white of 4 metres. Twist them together until they resist, fold them double and they will continue to twist. Tie a knot in each end. Thread the cord through the row of chain stitches (every other chain-space) in the same way as you thread a shoe lace.

Work 1 more slipper in the same way, but sew the decoration on the opposite side of the side piece.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1378) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (37)

Lola 07.02.2020 - 19:11:

Hola puedes poner los gráficos ?

Isa 20.10.2019 - 16:57:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment se fait le dessus du pied. Vous parlez de demi-cercle et de crocheter en aller retour. Or, au rang 1 on obtient un rond et si on continue jusqu'au rang 6, on obtient un cercle et non un demi-cercle. En passant à "toutes les tailles", je ne vois pas du tout comment se fait le rang 1 sur le cercle obtenu auparavant. Merci de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 11:04:

Bonjour Isa, les 6-7 premiers rangs (cf taille) se crochètent en allers et retours: on tourne à la fin de chaque rang (dès le 1er rang) pour crocheter alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers, puis, à partir de TOUTES LES TAILLES, on crochète des rangs sur le côté "plat" du demi-cercle (côté languette). Bon crochet!

Monika 24.09.2019 - 12:59:

Hallo. Meine Frage hat sich erledigt, ich habe mir das holländische vorher mal übersetzt 😉. Liebe Grüße

Monika 24.09.2019 - 11:40:

Hallo. Ich habe eine Frage zur Sohle. Bei der 5. Runde steht: wie die 4. Runde 2-2-1 x arbeiten, dann wie die 2. Runde 1-1-3 x arbeiten. Was heißt das? Wie viel Runden muss ich insgesamt machen?

DROPS Design 24.09.2019 kl. 13:48:

Liebe Monika, je nach der Größe häkeln Sie eine unterschiedliche Reihenanzahl, z.B. in die 1. + 2. Größe häkeln Sie noch 2 x wie bei 4. Runde (= 2 Runde) + 1 x wie bei 2. Runde (= 1 Runde) = 3 Runde insgesamt und jetzt haben Sie dann 80-88 Maschen. Bei der 3. Größe häkeln sie noch 1 Mal wie bei der 4. Runde + 3 Mal wie bei der 2. Runde = 4 Runde insgesamt und 96 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Sofia 30.03.2019 - 19:34:

Hej! Jag har virkat cirkelen men förstår inte hur man ska göra på "alla storlekar" som kommer efter beskrivningen på halvcirkel.

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 13:58:

Hei Sofia. Når du er ferdig med halsirkelen skal du hekle en kant langs den flate delene av sirkelen (den hvite delen helt nederst av "flappen" under der du knyter lissene) Du heklet 6-6-7 omganger i halvsirkelen, og nå hekler du over disse slik fra retten: du hopper over den første raden, og hekler 1 fastmaske om hver av de neste 5-5-6 radene (altså siden av radene i halvsirkelen). Du er nå i midten av sirkelen, og hekler 1 halvstav om luftmaskeringen, så hekler du 1 fastmaske om hver av de neste 5-5-6 radene (altså fra midten av sirkelig og ut mot siden), og hopper over siste rad. God fornøyelse

Marike 04.01.2019 - 21:22:

Ik heb de sloffen gehaakt .... Ik ging voor maat 38/40. Helaas viel het model heel veel kleiner uit, namelijk maat 31/32. Ik had een proeflapje gehaakt dat wel precies de gewenste afmetingen had. Dus het was even slikken..... Maar ze zien er wel fantastisch uit, en ik heb nu een mooi cadeautje voor mijn nichtje. Voor mezelf ga ik ze nog een keer haken. Het patroon is simpel genoeg om aan te passen naar mijn maat.

Marike 27.12.2018 - 13:45:

Hoi, ik ben bezig met de zool en begrijp de beschrijving van toer 5 niet: 2-2-1 keer en 1-1-3 keer. Wat duidt dit aan? Daarnaast heb ik een vraag over de markeerdraad. Ik heb de draad meegenomen in de toeren. Wat wordt er bedoeld met de opmerking over de markeerdraad na toer 5? Alvast bedankt voor uw reactie.

DROPS Design 01.01.2019 kl. 20:06:

Dag Marike,

De getallen met streepjes ertussen hebben betrekking op de maat die aan het haken bent, dus als er staat 2-2-1, betekent dat 2 voor maat 35/37, 2 voor maat 38/40 en 1 voor maat 41/43

Als je de markeerdraad meeneemt naar boven tijdens het haken, moet je er steeds voor zorgen dat hij in het midden voor van de teen zit.

Marguerite 31.10.2018 - 14:57:

Bonjour. Arrivée au rang 5, je ne comprends pas la consigne crocheter 2-2-1 fois et 1-1-3 Merci d'avance pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 31.10.2018 kl. 15:16:

Bonjour Marguerite, dans la 1ère et la 2ème taille, vous répétez 2 fois le tour 4 et 1 fois le tour 2- dans la 3ème taille, vous répétez 1 fois le tour 4 et 3 fois le tour 2. Bon crochet!

Caroline 26.09.2018 - 17:02:

Je ne comprend pas le tour 2/ faut t'il faire 2 tour, 1 pour les augmentation et 1 pour faire une maille serrée jusqu'à la fin du tour ou seulement un seule tour de semelle?

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 08:11:

Bonjour Caroline, au tour 2 de la semelle, on crochète 1 ms dans chaque ms (= 44-52-60 ms) et en même temps, on augmente 4 mailles = on obtient 48-56-64 ms. On répète ce tour encore une fois (= tour 3) = 52-60-68 ms. Bon crochet!

Angelique Peric 16.09.2018 - 13:54:

Beste kan ik de zool ook annpassen naar grotere maten,zou maat 47 voor iemand willen maken kent U dan misschien de verhouding? Alvast bedankt groetjes Angelique

DROPS Design 17.09.2018 kl. 12:28:

Dag Angelique, Helaas is dit patroon er niet voor maat 47. Je zou bij patronen van sloffen kunnen kijken wat de afmetingen van de zool zijn en dan kijken of je dat aan kunt passen naar die maat.

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