DROPS / 193 / 8

Harvest Dance by DROPS Design

Knitted socks in DROPS Fabel. The piece is worked top down in rib. Sizes 35 - 43.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-422
Yarn group A

Sizes: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm
Leg height: 15-16-17 cm
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g colour 111, mustard


26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
33 stitches in width and 40 rows in height in rib (= purl 1 /knit 1) = 10 x 10 cm.

The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.


See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.

ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 7-8-8 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 7-8-8 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until there are 6-7-7 stitches left slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, turn the piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 6-7-7 stitches left, slip 1 stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass the slipped stitch over the purled stitch, turn the piece. 
Continue to decrease like this by working 1 less stitch before slipping a stitch and until there are 14-14-16 stitches left on the needles.




The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 64-72-80 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Fabel. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= purl 1 / knit 1) for 2-3-4 cm. Now work pattern as follows (choose diagram for your size): A.1 (= 16-18-20 stitches), knit 1, A.2 (= 16-18-20 stitches), continue with rib as before over the remaining stitches. Repeat the pattern in height. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 15-16-17 cm work as follows: Work A.1, knit 1 and work A.2 as before over the first 33-37-41 stitches and then place these stitches on 1 thread (= top of foot), then knit over the 31-35-39 heel stitches where you decrease 5-7-9 stitches evenly over these stitches = 26-28-30 stitches on the heel. Work stocking stitch back and forth for 5-5½-6 cm. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Now work HEEL DECREASE - read description above. When the heel decrease has been completed, knit up 13-15-16 stitches on each side of the heel and the 33-37-41 stitches from the thread are placed back on the needles = 73-81-89 stitches. Insert 1 marker on each side of the 33-37-41 stitches on top of foot. Continue A.1, knit 1 stitch and A.2 over the stitches on top of foot and knit all stitches under the foot. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round decrease in each side as follows: Knit twisted together the last 2 stitches before the first marker and knit together the first 2 stitches after the second marker (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 9-10-12 times = 55-61-65 stitches. Continue until the piece measures 18-19-21 cm from the heel marker (there is now approx. 4-5-6 cm left to finished length). Insert 1 marker in each side of the sock so that there are 27-31-33 stitches on top of foot and 28-30-32 stitches under the foot. Now continue with knit to finished length and decrease to toe on each side of the markers as follows: Before the markers: Knit 2 together. After the markers: Knit 2 twisted together (= 4 stitches decreased each time). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-7-9 times and then every round a total of 6-3-2 times = 15-21-21 stitches left on the needles. On the next round knit all stitches together 2 and 2 until there is 1 stitch left, knit 1 = 8-11-11 stitches. Cut the strand, pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten and fasten well. Work the other sock in the same way.


= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
= purl 2 together

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 193-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Kati 24.09.2019 - 18:36:

Miten päin mallikuvioitanne on tarkoitus yleensä lukea ylhäälta alas ja vasemmalta oikealle vai alhaalta ylös, oikealta vasemmalle? En tunnu saavan vinoraitaa menemään oikein.

DROPS Design 19.12.2019 kl. 12:46:

Hei, piirrokset luetaan alhaalta ylös. Suljettua neuletta neulottaessa piirros luetaan oikealta vasemmalle. Kun neulotaan tasoneuletta, oikean puolen kerrokset luetaan oikealta vasemmalle ja nurjan puolen kerrokset luetaan vasemmalta oikealle.

Helena 10.10.2018 - 14:54:

3. zu Antwort 10.10.2018 kl. 14:31: Es müssen 82 Maschen angeschlagen werden (eine gerade Zahl, damit der Wechsel re-li stimmt) und das Rippenmusster mit einer rechten und NICHT mit einer linken wie in der Anleitung beginnen. Auf der ersten Nadel für A.1 müssen dann 21 Maschen und auf der Nadel für A.2 20 Maschen sein. Ihre Antwort kam sehr schnell, hat mir aber leider nicht weitergeholfen. Werden die Muster/Anleitungen bei Ihnen denn probegestrickt? Mit freundlichen Grüßen Helena

DROPS Design 11.10.2018 kl. 10:06:

Liebe Helena, damit die Diagramme stimmen werden die Bündchen mit 1 M links anfangen, dann stricken Sie die 2 ersten Maschen im A.1 li wie gezeigt, die nächste 18 M wie zuvor (wie im Bündchen zuvor) und 1 Umschlag vor der mitlleren Masche (= 20 M), die nächste M rechts stricken, dann A.2: 1 Umschlag, Bündchen wie zuvor (mit 1 M rechts anfangen) über die nächste 18 M (= letzte M li), und 2 M li zs stricken. Ich habe die Maschen angeschlagen und das 1. Rapport in der Höhe gestrickt und es hat schön geklappt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Helena 10.10.2018 - 14:51:

2. zu Antwort 10.10.2018 kl. 14:31: Dann muss ich bei jeder 2. Reihe (also immer dann, wenn der Rapport mit 2 li Maschen beginnt) die letzten beiden Maschen in A.1 folgend abstricken: auf dem Umschlag eine li Masche, dann die mittlere re Masche (die im Rapport fehlt). Dann Wechsel zu A.2 und zur nä Nadel: Hier wieder auf den Umschlag eine li Masche und dann im Muster weitergestrickt. Leider ist Ihr Diagramm und schon der Anschlag falsch!

DROPS Design 11.10.2018 kl. 10:03:

Bei der 2. Runde stricken Sie dann A.1 mit 1 M li (die Abnahme), dann Bündchen wie im Diagram (= 1 M li/1 M re im wechsel) und der Umschlag am Ende A.1 stricken Sie links (= 20 M), dann die mittlere Masche stricken Sie rechts, und jetzt A.2: der Umschlag stricken Sie links, dann Bündchen (1 M re, 1 M li im wechsel) und mit 1 M li enden (= die Abnahme)., dh genau wie im Diagram.

Helena 10.10.2018 - 14:41:

1. zu Antwort vom 10.10.2018 kl. 14:31: Ich habe den Rapport schon verstanden. Nur taucht diese mittlere Masche zwischen A.1 und A.2 nicht im Rapport auf. Wenn ich diese also einfach zwischenrein stricke, stimmt der Wechsel zwischen rechter und linker Masche in A.2 nicht mehr. Ergo: Ich muss im Anschlag schon eine (bzw. 2 Maschen) mehr anschlagen, damit ich in A.1 eine Masche mehr auf der Nadel habe.

DROPS Design 11.10.2018 kl. 10:00:

Liebe Helena, nach dem Bündchen sollen Sie immer so stricken: A.1 (= 20 M in der 3. Größe), 1 M rechts (= war zuvor eine linke M in den Bündchen aber wird jetzt immer rechts gestrickt), A.2 (= 20 M) und im Bündchen wie zuvor (mit 1 M re anfangen und 1 M re enden). Die mittlere Masche zwischen A.1 und A.2 wird ab jetzt immer rechts gestrickt, der Umschlag am Ende A.1 wird vor dieser re. M gestrickt und der Umschlag am Anfang A.2 wird nach dieser re. M gestrickt (= es sind immer 20 M in jedem Diagram und 1 M rechts dazwischen).

Helena 10.10.2018 - 13:48:

Hallo! Wenn dich die Umschläge in A.1 und A.2 und die zusätzlichen rechten Masche dazwischen stricke, habe ich zu Beginn des Diagramms A.2 eine Masche mehr auf der Nadel und das Muster wäre nicht mehr gleichmäßig, sondern immer eine Masche (links-rechts) versetzt. Was mache ich also in der Mitte zwischen A.1 und A.2?

DROPS Design 10.10.2018 kl. 14:31:

Liebe Helena, zwischen A.1 und A.2 stricken Sie 1 Masche rechts, dh so: A.1, 1 Masche rechts, A.2. In jede 2. Runde wird 1 Masche am Anfang in A.1 abgenommen und 1 Masche am Anfang in A.2 zugenommne und gleichzeitg wird 1 Masche am Ende A.1 zugenommen und 1 Masche am Ende in A.2 abgenommen. Die neuen Maschen stricken Sie im Bündchen wie im Diagram gezeigt, damit die Bündchen immer noch passen (1 Re, 1 Li). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Antje 10.10.2018 - 13:04:

Hallo! Ihr gebt in eurem Muster an, dass man mit Rippenmuster starten soll und dabei mit einer linken und einer rechten Masche abwechselnd. Allerdings stimmt dann das Diagramm A.1 und damit folgend auch Diagramm A.2 nicht mehr. Das Diagramm A.1 gibt vor, dass ich die ersten 2 Maschen links zusammenstricken muss. Nach eurer Vorgabe damit eine linke und eine rechte Masche. Darauf würde wieder eine linke Masche folgen und nicht wie in eurem Diagramm eine rechte. Es muss umgekehrt beginnen.

DROPS Design 11.10.2018 kl. 10:26:

Liebe Antje, Bündchen muss mit 1 M li / 1 M re im wechsel gestrickt werden, so daß die erste Masche im A.1 immer 1 M li wird (jede 4. Reihe werden Sie mit 2 li M A.1 anfangen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Ingrid Nordbø 19.09.2018 - 09:51:

Det er ikke samsvar mellom symbolene i diagrammet og den nederste symbolforklaringen (2 vrang sammen). Skal man regne med at tekstforklaringen er korrekt selv om symbolene er forskjellige?

DROPS Design 20.09.2018 kl. 09:19:

Hei Ingrid. Litt usikker på om jeg skjønner spørsmålet ditt. Det nederste symbolet (= 2 vrang sammen) finnes i starten av A.1 og i slutten av A.2 på hver omgang fra retten. De skal strikkes 2 vrang sammen som forklart, og symbolet er det samme (en sort rettvinklet trekant som går over 2 masker og dekker nederste, høyre del av de 2 rutene). God fornøyelse.

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