DROPS / 188 / 38

Adalmina by DROPS Design

Knitted shoulder piece with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.

Tags: boleros, lace,
  • Adalmina / DROPS 188-38 - Knitted shoulder piece with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.
  • Adalmina / DROPS 188-38 - Knitted shoulder piece with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.
  • Adalmina / DROPS 188-38 - Knitted shoulder piece with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Paris.
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-673
Yarn group C
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Sizes: S /M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300 g colour 16, white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5 MM – or the size needed to get17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 9.00 kr /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 10.00 kr /50g
Garnfeber.se
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 9.00 kr /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 45kr. Read more.

Pattern instructions

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
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SHOULDER PIECE:
The piece is first worked back and forth with circular needle. Then an edge is worked in the round.

Cast on 105-117-129 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm and Paris. Work 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, A.1 over the next 96-108-120 stitches (= 16-18-20 repeats), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch. When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.2 over the next 96-108-120 stitches (= 8-9-10 repeats in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch, 4 stitches in garter stitch. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height, continue as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 96-108-120 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, continue as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.3A over the first 5 stitches, repeat A.3B over the next 84-96-108 stitches (= 14-16-18 times), A.3 C over the next 8 stitches and finish with 4 stitches in garter stitch. When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, continue with A.4 A-C over the stitches in A.3 A-C. Work A.4 1-2-3 times in height. When A.4 has been completed, continue as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 96-108-120 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on the last row in A.1 increase 4-2-0 stitches evenly on row = 109-119-129 stitches. Then work as follows: 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.5 over the next 100-110-120 stitches (= 10-11-12 repeats in width), 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch. On the last row in A.5 decrease 4-2-0 stitches evenly on row = 105-117-129 stitches. Work 4 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 96-108-120 stitches, 1 stitch in stocking stitch and 4 stitches in garter stitch.

Now the piece measures approx. 46-50-54 cm. Continue working as follows from the right side: Work 1 row stocking stitch, do not turn the piece, skip the edge in the left side, continue by knitting up 105-117-129 stitches along the cast-on edge (seen from the right side) = 210-234-258 stitches on needle (in other words, the piece is folded before knitting up the stitches along the cast-on edge). Continue working in the round with circular needle. Continue with GARTER STITCH in the round until the edge measures 6 cm – see description above. Then cast off with picot edge.

FINISHING EDGE WITH PICOT:
Knit 1 stitch, (* insert the right needle between the first 2 stitches on the left needle, i.e. between the stitches not through the stitches), make 1 yarn over the right needle, pull the yarn over between the stitches and place it on the left needle *, repeat from *-* 2 more times = 3 new stitches on the left needle. ** Knit the first stitch on the left needle, pass the first stitch from the right needle over the last stitch worked **), repeat from **-** a total of 6 times and repeat from (-) along the whole edge until there are 2 stitches left, cast off the last 2 stitches. Cut and fasten the strand.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = this is how the garment is worn
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-38) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Melinda Fülöp 09.11.2020 - 12:06:

Jag håller på med A1. Har gjort varvet med omslag och hoptagning. Men ska göra avigsidan och då ska jag väl göra avigmaskor hela vägen, men ska omslagen göras räta ändå eller göras aviga?

user icon DROPS Design 10.11.2020 kl. 09:54:

Hej Melinda. Du stickar omslagen enligt diagram (dvs avigt här) men du stickar de inte vridet, för det ska bli ett hål. Mvh DROPS Design

country flag Audrée 18.07.2020 - 15:27:

On April 10, 2019, you provided clarification for the Adalmina pattern but I don't understand what you mean! You wrote: work YO so does this mean to pass it over the knit that follows? If so, this makes two decreases. Then you said: knit together the last stitch in A with the first stitch in B but the pattern asks for a YO, slip, knit and passover. I can't figure out how to work the B section 14 times with section A crossing over it and B section crossing over C. Thanks for your help!

user icon DROPS Design 20.07.2020 kl. 09:23:

Dear Audrée, on row 3 for example you work A= K1, K2 tog, YO, K1, then make a yarn over (as shown in diagram), 1 stitch remain in A - K tog this last st in A. with first st in B (= the last st in A is now the YO and the first st in B is now the K2 tog). At the end of B, work the yarn over, then slip 1 as if to K (= last st in B), K first st in B/C, and psso = the YO is now the last st in B and the decrease is the first stitch next B / C. A. will be worked only once at the beg, then you repeat B and finish row with C; Hope this will help :) Happy knitting!

country flag Raffaella 20.07.2019 - 21:00:

Ciao, non riesco a capire questo passaggio iniziale in cui si dice dopo il diagramma A.1 lavorare 1 maglia a maglia rasata e 4 maglie a Lavorare 4 maglie a PUNTO LEGACCIO – vedere le spiegazioni sopra, diagramma A.1 sulle 96-108-120 maglie successive (= 16-18-20 ripetizioni), 1 maglia a maglia rasata e 4 maglie a punto legaccio. Mi aspetto di trovare simmetricamente un’altra maglia rasata e 4 punti a legaccio alla fine del ferro, ma la maglia rasata non la trovo, è corretto così?

user icon DROPS Design 21.07.2019 kl. 14:41:

Buongiorno Raffaella. È corretto come indicato. La maglia rasata prima delle ultime 4 m legaccio serve per rendere simmetrico il lavoro nella riga con le maglie gettate. Buon lavoro!

country flag Silke Spröd 16.06.2019 - 19:53:

Wie wird die rechte Masche am Ende des Mustersatzes in den Rückreihen gestrickt? Diese Masche irririert mich.

user icon DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 08:24:

Liebe Frau Spröd, nach A.2 stricken Sie 1 Masche glatt rechts (vor den 4 M krausrechts), dh diese Masche wird rechts bei den Hinreihen und links bei den Rückreihen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Amanda 23.05.2019 - 19:31:

Jag förstår inte riktigt hur den maskan mad slätstickning blir. Det står "Sticka 4 maskor RÄTSTICKNING, A.1 över de nästa 96 maskorna, 1 maska slätstickning och 4 maskor rätstickning." Ska där enda maskan slätstickning stickas varannan gång på höger och varannan gång på vänster, så att det alltid blir 5e maskan före slutet? Eller ska den alltid vara på samma sida, dvs varannan gång 5e maskan innan slutet, och varannan gång 5e maskan från början?

user icon DROPS Design 24.05.2019 kl. 08:00:

Hei Amanda. Det strikkes frem og tilbake, altså annenhver pinne fra rettsiden og annenhver pinne fra vrangsiden. Mønsteret blir forklart fra første pinne (= rettsiden), så når det strikkes fra vrangsiden må du strikke motsatt av forklaringen. Den slettstrikkede masken skal strikkes på samme sted hele veien, altså: fra rettsiden strikkes den ETTER A.1, og fra vrangsiden strikkes den FØR A.1. I dette tilfelle strikkes slik fra vrangsiden: 4 masker rettstrikning, 1 maske slettstrikkning (=vrang fra vrangen), A.1 over 96 masker (husk å lese diagrammet motsatt vei: fra høyre mot venstre når du strikker fra vrangen) og avslutt med 4 masker rettstrikning. God fornøyelse.

country flag Lynn 09.04.2019 - 17:08:

I'm working this pattern at the moment, I've done the A1, A2, then A1, then the pattern says work A.3A over the first 5 stitches, repeat A.3B over the next 84 stitches, I cant understand how I can work the 6 stitches in the A.3B part when you have to knit 2 together or slip stitch knit 2 together slip stitch over when this part goes over to part A.3C, hope you can understand what i'm trying to say.

user icon DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 10:02:

Dear Lynn, on row 3 for example you work A= K1, K2 tog, YO, K1, then work YO, K tog the last st in A. with first st in B (= the last st in A is now the YO and the first st in B is now the K2 tog). At the end of B, work the yarn over, then slip 1 as if to K (= last st in B), K first st in B/C, and psso = the YO is now the last st in B and the decrease is the first stitch next B / C. Happy knitting!

country flag Elke Patt 11.11.2018 - 11:48:

Bolero mit sehr schöner Musterfolge. Ich bin begeistert. Freue mich auf den nächsten Sommer, wenn den Bolero anziehen kann.

country flag Anita Sjursen 19.09.2018 - 10:44:

Hei. Har problem med at den blir slaskete i nakken. Blir ikke som formen som på tegningen. Når man tar opp like mange masker(kanten til slutt) som man legger opp, så blir den avlang (?)

user icon DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 14:30:

Hei Anita. Om du plukker opp like mange masker som du la opp, skal ikke plagget bli videre langs kanten enn det er over resten. Kan det være du kanskje la opp litt stramt? og at det er derfor kanten du plukker opp blir videre enn oppleggskanten?

country flag Delettre 13.04.2018 - 18:11:

Bonjour, je viens de tricoter le chauffe épaulé mais je ne comprends pas comment on le met pourriez vous me le dire en vous remerciant .salutations

user icon Delettre 14.04.2018 kl. 07:46:

Désolée je viens de comprendre je me suis trompée en relevant les mailles j i pas bien lu sur le rang de montage merci le chauffe est super avec cette laine j aime beaucoup !!

country flag Barbara Rhyner-Danz 18.03.2018 - 17:47:

Ich muss das ganze Modell neu berechnen, weil das ausgewählte Garn eine Maschenprobe von 21 Maschen = 10 cm ergibt (Breite). Mir fehlt die Strickrichtung auf der Zeichnung. Wo befindet sich der Anschlag? Ist die Hüft bzw. Taillenweite 62 cm, was ich als ziemlich weit erachte. Die Dame die das Bolero möchte hat eine Hüftweite von 98 cm und eine Taillenweite von 72 cm . Herzlichen Dank für eine Rückmeldung.

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