DROPS / 191 / 4

Fair Lily by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk and DROPS Air.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-118
Yarn group C + C or E
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white
and use:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 15, purple haze

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group C)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm) SIZE 8 MM – or the size needed to get 11 stitches and 15 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 7 MM for the rib – or the size needed to get 12 stitches and 16 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.60 £ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.60 £ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.60 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 4.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.
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JUMPER:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. When the yoke is finished, the piece is divided; the body is continued in the round and the sleeves are finished separately in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 51-54-57-63-66-69 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). The beginning of the round is in the side of the back (in the transition between right sleeve and the back piece when the garment is worn). Work A.1 a over all stitches – see diagram for your size. When A.1a has been worked 1 time in height, change to circular needle size 8 mm and work A.1 b over A.1 a. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When A.1 b has been worked 1 time in height, there are 153-162-171-189-198-207 stitches on the needle. Now work A.1 c over A.1 b. Continue like this until the piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge. Now the piece is divided as follows:

Work A.1 c as before over the first 46-48-49-56-61-64 stitches (= back piece), place the next 30-33-36-38-38-39 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches under the sleeve, work A.1 c as before over the next 47-48-50-57-61-65 stitches (front piece), place the next 30-33-36-38-38-39 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve.

BODY:
= 105-108-115-129-142-153 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work 1 round in stocking stitch. Continue with A.1 d over the stitches in A.1 c – work stocking stitch over the stitches in the sides where the pattern does not fit; make sure that the repeats of A.1 d are directly over the repeats of A.1 c. When A.1 d has been completed in height, work stocking stitch over all stitches. When the piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves, work 1 round where you increase 1-4-3-1-0-1 stitches evenly on round = 106-112-118-130-142-154 stitches on needle. Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work rib back and forth separately over the front and back pieces (= split) as follows:

BACK PIECE:
= the first 53-56-59-65-71-77 stitches, place the last 53-56-59-65-71-77 stitches on a thread. Work as follows from the right side: Work 2 stitches GARTER STITCH – see description above, rib (= knit 1 /purl 2) until there are 3 stitches left, finish with knit 1 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue like this until the rib measures 6 cm. The piece measures a total of 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder. Cast off with knit, make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight; you can use 1 size larger needle if necessary.

FRONT PIECE:
Finish the front piece (the remaining stitches on the thread) in the same way as the back piece.

SLEEVE:
Place the 30-33-36-38-38-39 stitches from the one thread onto double pointed needles size 8 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 36-39-44-46-48-51 stitches. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Work 1 round in stocking stitch. Continue with A.1 d over the stitches in A.1 c – work stocking stitch over the stitches under the sleeve, where the pattern does not fit; make sure that the repeats of A.1d are directly over the repeats of A.1 c. When A.1d has been completed in height, work stocking stitch over all stitches. Work stocking stitch until the piece measures 10 cm. Insert 7 marker threads in the piece with approx. 5-5-6-7-7-7 stitches between each. On the next round make 1 yarn over after each marker thread (= 7 stitches increased). The yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next round to avoid holes = 43-46-51-53-55-58 stitches. Increase like this every 5 cm 2 more times = 57-60-65-67-69-72 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the piece measures 35-34-33-31-30-28 cm. On the next round work all the stitches together 2 and 2 = 29-30-33-34-35-36 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm and work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) over all stitches AT THE SAME TIME as you decrease 5-3-3-4-2-3 stitches evenly on round = 24-27-30-30-33-33 stitches. Cast off when the rib measures 7 cm, make sure that the cast-off edge is not tight; you can use 1 size larger needle if necessary. The sleeve measures approx. 43-41-40-38-37-35 cm from where the sleeve was separated from the body. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.03.2018
Correction under YOKE:...Work A.1 c as before over the first 46-48-49-56-61-64 stitches (= back piece), place the next 30-33-36-38-38-39 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches under the sleeve, work A.1 c as before over the next 47-48-50-57-61-65 stitches (front piece), place the next 30-33-36-38-38-39 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve and cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under the sleeve.
Updated online: 17.01.2019
Correction - BODY: When the piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-25 cm from where the body was divided from the sleeves...

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is knitted on the next round to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is knitted twisted on the next round to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (15)

Andrea Lauxtermann 07.09.2019 - 20:45:

Gibt es die Möglichkeit irgendwo passende Farbkombinationen zusehen?

DROPS Design 09.09.2019 kl. 08:29:

Liebe Frau Lauxtermann, wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihren DROPS Laden an (auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail), gerne wird man Ihnen neue passenden Farben vorschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sanet 18.11.2018 - 10:24:

I have never knitted from a diagram and need some help please. 1. There are 4 squares at the bottom, 3 of which are purl, is the last stitch slipped over? 2. Are only right side rows shown and if so, what do I do on the wrong side? 3. Are the diagram stitches just repeated over the amount of stitches cast on? Thank you very much, I am very confused!

DROPS Design 19.11.2018 kl. 08:51:

Dear Sanet, start reading diagram from the bottom corner on the right side (= 3 squares = 3 sts at the beginning of A.1 in each size), and repeat these stitches in width over all sts. On row 1 you will work: (P2, K1) and repeat from (to) to the end of the round. Then work row 2 in diagram the same way, always from the right towards the left (since you are working in the round). See diagram key to know how to work the stitches. Happy knitting!

Marie 22.10.2018 - 20:45:

Bonjour, j'ai un problème avec les mesures. Je tricote le pull en taille S qui mesure 52 cm de hauteur d'après le schéma. Or l'empiecement mesure 22 cm puis on tricote 20 cm puis le bord 6 cm : on obtient 48 cm et non 52 cm.

DROPS Design 23.10.2018 kl. 09:22:

Bonjour Marie, l'empiècement mesure 22 cm en taille S depuis le rang de montage (au milieu devant), mais quand vous poserez votre pull à plat, vous aurez quelques cm supplémentaires pour les épaules (les 3 cm indiqués en haut du schéma). Bon tricot!

Agnethe 09.09.2018 - 20:23:

Hei. Er ikke denne oppskriften tilgjengelig lengre? Får ikke opp bilder, diagram eller tegnene i diagramforklaringen. Har forsøkt flere ulike enheter, samme på alle. Samme feil om jeg velger utskrift også.

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 12:50:

Hei Agnethe. Vi har for øyeblikket tekniske problemer med siden vår, dette medfører at diagrammer og bilder dessverre ikke lastes ordentlig. Vi jobber med å løse problemet, og siden vil være tilbake som normalt så snart som mulig. Du kan følge med på vår twitter eller facebookside for oppdateringer. Beklager dette

Dessy 20.04.2018 - 10:31:

Beautiful!

Anne 04.04.2018 - 18:46:

Går det å strikke denne med kun én tråd med drops Air, uten Brushed Alpaca Silk?

DROPS Design 05.04.2018 kl. 08:17:

Hei Anne, Det er mulig å strikke genseren med bare Drops Air, men du må da regne om antall masker og rader som utgjør 10 x 10 cm slik at du får riktige målene. God fornøyelse!

Tina Gundestrup 23.03.2018 - 08:26:

Drops gratis strikkeopskrifter, kan ikke uploade selve opskriften billeder mv ? Hvad er der sket? Jeg er interesseret i opskrift fair lily nr. 118 Air og alpacha

Taputu 10.03.2018 - 23:23:

😉 un grand merci à Sylvie! Depuis le temps que j'attendais une réponse, merci mille fois!

Sylvie 09.03.2018 - 22:06:

Bonjour Je pense qu'il y a une erreur de frappe. Il faut lire a1c puisqu'il y a écrit continuer a2c comme avant (donc a1c). J'espère vous avoir aidé. Bonne continuation ( je vais le tricoter également pour moi) et bonne soirée

Taputu 05.03.2018 - 16:33:

Bonjour ! Avez-vous trouver à quoi correspond le A.2c, j'ai commencé le pull jusqu'au A.1b.et là je ne sais quoi faire, je ne sais pas ce qu'est A.2c Merci.

DROPS Design 16.03.2018 kl. 14:58:

Bonjour Mme Taputu, les explications ont été corrigées, il faut en fait tricoter A.1c et non A.2c. Bon tricot!

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