DROPS / 183 / 24

Queen of Hearts Socks by DROPS Design

Socks with hearts, knitted from toe and up. Size 35-43. Piece is knitted in DROPS Fabel.

  • Queen of Hearts Socks / DROPS 183-24 - Socks with hearts, knitted from toe and up. Size 35-43.
Piece is knitted in DROPS Fabel.
  • Queen of Hearts Socks / DROPS 183-24 - Socks with hearts, knitted from toe and up. Size 35-43.
Piece is knitted in DROPS Fabel.
DROPS design: Pattern fa-384
Yarn group A
Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43.
Foot length: approx. 22-24-27 cm
Sock height: approx. 22 cm

DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
50-50-100 g colour 400, black
50-50-100 g colour 916, grand canyon

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm – or size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2 mm for rib – or size needed to get 29 stitches and 38 rows in stocking stitch = width 10 cm and 10 cm vertically.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 2.30 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 2.50 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

See diagrams A.1 to A.4 - choose diagram for your size. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

Work in stocking stitch back and forth with pattern as before.
ROW 1 (= right side): Work until 1 stitch remains, turn piece. 
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and work until 1 stitch remains, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Slip first stitch knitwise, tighten yarn and work until 2 stitch remains, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Slip first stitch purlwise, tighten yarn and work until 2 stitches remains, turn piece. 
Continue short rows the same way until 17 stitches remain in the middle of row.

Continue back and forth but now work 1 stitch more for every row over heel. To avoid holes in the transitions, lift the horizontal yarn before the stitch to be knitted up and slip it twisted on the needle. Work strand tog with next stitch (from right side knit strand and stitch together and from wrong side purl strand and stitch together). Work like this until all heel stitches have been worked.


Worked in the round on double pointed needles from toe and up.

Cast on 28 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with black. Work diagram A.1, when diagram has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 56-60-64 stitches on round. Now continue according to diagram A.2 over all stitches until piece measures approx. 13-15-17 cm from cast-on edge, adjust after one whole repetition of A.2 vertically (if knitting tension does not fit vertically adjust pattern when working over the other diagrams).

Work diagram A.3 over the first 29-31-33 stitches and work A.4 over the last 27-29-31 stitches. When diagrams have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 70-74-78 stitches on round. Slip the first 29-31-33 stitches on 1 stitch holder, slip the next 7 stitches on 1 new stitch holder and slip the last 7 stitches at the end of round on 1 more stitch holder (1 stitch holder with 29-31-33 stitches for foot and 2 stitch holders with 7 stitches for sides of heel).
There are 27-29-31 stitches on needle, work HEEL DECREASE - see explanation above, over these stitches.

After heel decrease continue back and forth over heel and stitches placed on stitch holder in the sides as follows: Use black and work stitch at the end of every row together with the outermost stitch of the 7 stitches on each side of heel (from right side knit the 2 stitches twisted together and from wrong side purl the 2 stitches together). Continue to work like this until all stitches from sides have been worked together with stitches from heel. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Slip the 29-31-33 stitches on last stitch holder back on needles = 56-60-64 stitches. Now work in the round, work A.2 over all stitches as before until piece measures approx. 10 cm - adjust after 1 whole repetition. Knit 3 rounds with black while increasing 4 stitches evenly on last round = 60-64-68 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 2 mm and work rib knit 2 and purl 2 until rib measures approx. 3 cm. Loosely cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold cast-on edge double, use grafting/kitchener stitches and sew together opening at the front of toe. Cut the yarn and fasten. Knit another sock the same way.


symbols = black
symbols = grand canyon
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 183-24) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Anne Zinn 11.05.2021 - 22:27:

Hej, omslaget mellem to masker, hvilken farve skal det være i? Skal den matche næste pinds farve?

user icon DROPS Design 12.05.2021 kl. 10:38:

Hej Anne, ja omslaget skal være samme farve som skal strikkes i den nye maske på næste pind. God fornøjelse!

country flag Sam 21.11.2020 - 17:21:

Hallo, wäre es möglich, dass die charts besser zum ausdrucken wären? ich habe jetzt einiges versucht, aber sie sind sehr klein und man kann kaum die leeren kästchen sehen, von den zunahmen mal ganz abgesehen. danke.

user icon DROPS Design 23.11.2020 kl. 08:42:

Liebe Sam, leider können wir aus technischen Gründen die Diagramme nicht größer haben, aber sicher können Sie sie über Fotokopierer vergrößern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Elisa 13.06.2020 - 13:39:

Is it possible to knit on circular needles. I have only knitted cuff down using circulars or magic loop.

user icon DROPS Design 15.06.2020 kl. 08:36:

Dear Elisa, you can use magic loop technique to work the socks if you like to. Happy knitting!

country flag Sylvie Gingras 16.12.2019 - 01:01:

Bonjour, j'aimerais savour pourquoi les bas ne font pas même avec des aiguilles 3mm. Fait avec 64 mailles. Tres serré.

user icon DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 09:09:

Bonjour Mme Gingras, aviez-vous bien la bonne tension? Autrement dit 26 m x 34 rangs en jersey avec les aiguilles 2,5 = 10 x 10 cm. Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur l'échantillon et la tension. Bon tricot!

country flag Sylvie Gingras 19.11.2019 - 15:40:

Bonjour, quand je termine le diagramme A4 je glisse les 33 mailles (devant) et les 7 mailles etc. Mais mon fil se retrouve à la fin des 7 mailles sur arrêt et avant les 33 mailles du devant. On fait quoi pour commencer à faire les diminutions du talon sur endroit. Merci

user icon DROPS Design 19.11.2019 kl. 16:31:

Bonjour Mme Gingras, vous pouvez couper votre fil et le joindre pour tricoter les diminutions du talon ou bien, tricoter ces 7 mailles sur l'envers, les mettre en attente, tricoter les mailles du talon sur l'envers, tourner et tricoter les diminutions du talon. Pour éviter un trou aux transition, n'hésitez pas à relever le fil entre 2 mailles comme indiqué à la fin des diminutions du talon. Bon tricot!

country flag Sylvie Gingras 09.11.2019 - 01:29:

Bonjour combien aiguilles doubles pointes pour ce modèle et combien de mailles sur chaque aiguille car il y'a toujours un jeté qu'onne peut pas faire entre 2mailles merci

user icon DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 10:17:

Bonjour Mme Gingras, vous pouvez répartir les mailles sur 4 aiguilles doubles pointes (et tricoter avec la 5ème), vous aurez ainsi 7 m sur chaque aiguille (soit 28 m au total). Tricotez et augmentez simplement comme indiqué dans les diagrammes. Bon tricot!

country flag Shawn 08.03.2019 - 02:56:

Is it possible to knit these Magic Loop style?

user icon DROPS Design 08.03.2019 kl. 08:13:

Dear Shawn, yes sure, you always can work small projects like socks, mittens etc... with the magic loop technique. Happy knitting!

country flag Sue Buckley 06.04.2018 - 22:09:

I found this pattern in \\\"Simply Knitting\\\" and loved it (although I have never knit socks in the toe-up style) - I bought the Drops wool today but on reading the pattern I am deeply confused about starting the socks from the chart as the instructions say cast on 28...could someone help me? Is the \\\"Simply Knitting\\\" pattern (& chart) complete/correct?

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2018 kl. 07:01:

Dear Sue, yes, the pattern is correct. You cast on 28 stitches, and knit the pattern in which you will increase enough stitches that will accomondate your foot. The 28 stitches should be put on 4 double pointed needles, and you knit with the fifth. The toe will be folded in half and sewn up at the end. You can find tutorial videos to help you on the left side of teh page just below the model's picture. Also do not forget you can always ask for help in person in the store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Knitting!

country flag Jane Watt 04.04.2018 - 21:05:

I have made this pattern and I like it, but wonder if you would ever make it a top down pattern. I find it hard to get a heel and gusset with no holes when I make as you suggest.

user icon DROPS Design 05.04.2018 kl. 08:33:

Dear Mrs Watt, this video shows how to knit the diagonal heel and how to avoid holes, should you have some holes left, you can also sew some sts afterwards. Happy knitting!

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